*d2mini's new 200g Reeftastic Build*

So for the past 7-8 months I've been collecting parts on eBay for a custom built high end dual stage regulator for my CaRx.
I finally finished it up while treating the tank for the blue cloves and got it dialed in. It's a nice piece of kit. All stainless steel.
Thanks to Alan for all his help in his C02 Regulator thread in the equipment forum.
The whole thing cost me close to $350 but it's more like a $1000+ setup. Now I can sell the Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser I was using.

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what does that regulator do that the aquarium plants doesn't ?

It does the same thing... but It's much sexier looking. :lolspin:

The reg itself is 10x better quality than the cheap single stage that comes with the AP. The AP is a single stage reg, brass, just not as precise/stable.
What I built is overkill, but I guess it's kind of like running the Cole-Parmer pump instead of a cheap hobby grade peristaltic pump.
 
Made a change to my lighting!
I added a 72" XB-Series Super Actinic from Build My LED.
Now I've got the best of all 3! :D

My lighting now starts off with just the LED strip, then two T5 come on, then the other two T5, then finally the three MH bulbs. And the opposite in the evening.
With 92 top shelf LEDs, it really makes things pop. During mid-day with the halides on, you can see the color change... a little crisper blue. As the evening progresses and lights start turning off, the fluorescence builds.
I went with the 75 degree lens and mounted the LED in front at a bit of an angle so it's hitting the front of the corals.
Seems to be working out really well.

I attached the LED unit directly to my Hamilton Cebu Sun with the included hardware and a couple of self-tapping metal screws.

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Here's the progression....

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Wow. That's awesome Dennis. Fantastic!

Sorry if you have posted it, but what's you lighting schedule? Specifically how long you run the MH.

Cheers
 
I have been on the fence about getting the bml super actinic strip. thanks for posting those lights. looks fantastic..
 
I have been on the fence about getting the bml super actinic strip. thanks for posting those lights. looks fantastic..

No problem!
I was originally looking at reefbrite strips, then a buddy was recommending a DIY kit from rapid led. Almost went that route but it seemed like too much hassle. Decided on the Build My LED because they use 92 top shelf LEDs which is nearly twice as many as reefbrite. And they are practically next door to me in Austin, TX. :)
 
Nicely done. Great simplified explanation of the plus and minuses of all three lighting options. I'm not quite ready to go back to MH's but I have experienced the down side of LED's. I'm not knocking LED's, I still expect to be using LED's for all of the reasons you state in your blog. I will be using an ATI T-5 Sunpower (8 bulb 54 wt) fixture but will be supplementing this with two BML Super Actinic (LED) fixtures. After reading your blog, I feel less tense about going this route with my lighting. Thanks for doing the blog. I found it to be informative and insightful. Great post Dennis.
 
Dennis, As someone who obviously has played around with lighting, what do you think about this set up:
120gal 4x2x2 tank with 2 54w T5's (bulb rec please) and 2 Reefbreeder 16" photons and 2 150 watt DE MH. I was planning on running the photons perpendicular to the tank and alternate placement with the DE MH's. The T5's would run 1 on either side of the center LED/MH lights.
I was planning on using the luxcore ballast so if I need to go up to 250 watts it would be a simple upgrade path.
These will all be in a hood with fan cooling. Any suggestions would be welcomed. I only have the LED's and T5 retro purchased. Which after reading this thread I wish I didn't buy that type of LED fixture.
Thanks
Dave
 
Dennis, As someone who obviously has played around with lighting, what do you think about this set up:
120gal 4x2x2 tank with 2 54w T5's (bulb rec please) and 2 Reefbreeder 16" photons and 2 150 watt DE MH. I was planning on running the photons perpendicular to the tank and alternate placement with the DE MH's. The T5's would run 1 on either side of the center LED/MH lights.
I was planning on using the luxcore ballast so if I need to go up to 250 watts it would be a simple upgrade path.
These will all be in a hood with fan cooling. Any suggestions would be welcomed. I only have the LED's and T5 retro purchased. Which after reading this thread I wish I didn't buy that type of LED fixture.
Thanks
Dave

For the T5 try the KZ Super Blue for more crisp blue and more PAR. And a Giesemann Super Actinic.

For the MH and LED, i'd want to try the MH in the center where they would normally be if running only MH. Then take the LEDs and hang them lengthwise front to back, one on each end of the tank angled in 45 degrees towards the center of the tank.
So it would look like... LED MH MH LED
The two MH should be enough for a 4' tank on their own so the LED are more supplemental.
 
Awesome writeup on cameras and lights Dennis! love your tank, sump, water change, camera ( I have the same with the tamron) house, car, pretty much everything you have including your baby girl!
 
Your setup is incredible man!!! How do you like the lifereef setup? I am on the build schedule for a setup, and am looking at getting a Cal reacter as well.
 
Awesome writeup on cameras and lights Dennis! love your tank, sump, water change, camera ( I have the same with the tamron) house, car, pretty much everything you have including your baby girl!
Thanks! :)

Your setup is incredible man!!! How do you like the lifereef setup? I am on the build schedule for a setup, and am looking at getting a Cal reacter as well.
The lifereef setup is great.
I've had the skimmer for quite some time and wouldn't use anything else.
The sump is working out really well. It's not as sexy as a Royal Exclusiv Dream Box but it functions beautifully which is what matters. Love not having filter socks. The filter pads are much easier to deal with. And then the chaeto ball in the attached refugium is pulling out all my excess organics. Still have nitrates too low, and P04 is still ultra low too.
The calcium reactor is fine. It works well. My only complaint is the location of the pH probe. I know Jeff put it there so it wasn't sticking out the top where it adds to the overall height and could possibly be broken, but where he has it requires a complete drain of the reactor if you need to remove the probe to recalibrate. Pain in the butt. The GEO is basically the same reactor but with pH probe located up top and the flow is reversed, which I hear can be better. So if I had to do it again, I'd probably go GEO with the reactor.
 
Thanks! :)


The lifereef setup is great.
I've had the skimmer for quite some time and wouldn't use anything else.
The sump is working out really well. It's not as sexy as a Royal Exclusiv Dream Box but it functions beautifully which is what matters. Love not having filter socks. The filter pads are much easier to deal with. And then the chaeto ball in the attached refugium is pulling out all my excess organics. Still have nitrates too low, and P04 is still ultra low too.
The calcium reactor is fine. It works well. My only complaint is the location of the pH probe. I know Jeff put it there so it wasn't sticking out the top where it adds to the overall height and could possibly be broken, but where he has it requires a complete drain of the reactor if you need to remove the probe to recalibrate. Pain in the butt. The GEO is basically the same reactor but with pH probe located up top and the flow is reversed, which I hear can be better. So if I had to do it again, I'd probably go GEO with the reactor.


Dennis, I too had the LifeReef LCR2 Reactor and agree with your statement about the pH Probe as well as the flow. I actually switched to the Geo 618 Reactor and I am very happy. I really think the reverse flow inside the reactor seems to be a more efficient use of the C02. Don't get me wrong, the LCR2 is a fine reactor, I just prefer the GEO 618.
 
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