. . . da RC Artsy-Cube project - - - Picture Intense
- Thread starter cerreta
- Start date
cerreta
Premium Member
jawfish had a rough acclimation adn died about two weeks out.
The Angler lived for about 3 or 4 months, then my dumb *** bought some quarentined feeders thinking they are just going to die anyone. I was in a hurry to leave town on a biz trip and did not have time to visit another store.
Perfectly healthy fish croaked the very next morning after eating the tainted feeders. Half the feeders were dead and had a fungal growth on them.
I'm still kicking myself for that one :blown:
The Angler lived for about 3 or 4 months, then my dumb *** bought some quarentined feeders thinking they are just going to die anyone. I was in a hurry to leave town on a biz trip and did not have time to visit another store.
Perfectly healthy fish croaked the very next morning after eating the tainted feeders. Half the feeders were dead and had a fungal growth on them.
I'm still kicking myself for that one :blown:
cerreta
Premium Member
Flow Update.
I had been using two Tunze 6025 and one Koralia 2 pump. The Koralia bareley moved any flow when placing your hand in fromt of it.
I think the major issue was that the current going into the sump had only 2 active holes for drain. So, the pressure placed on teh Koralia was too overwhelming.
I stumbled across the new Tunze Nano Wavebox last night and resparked my interest in creating true waves in the tank.
I have been playing around with a simple on/off Wavemaker in the past. I revisted that today. The Koralia pump starts fairly soft, with occasional back spins. The Tunze starts hard and backspins often without recorrecting itself.
So, what I came up with is to run the Tunze pump as constant on. Then, I picked up a Koralia 3 today. It is just about equal in current output as the Tunze 6025 (a tad stronger maybe).
I noticed that the Koralia 3 impellar fits the Koralia 2 base perfectly. Wish I knew that, I would have just bought a replacement impeller for $7.00. Does anyone know if the Koralia 4 impeller will also fit this base?
I connected the Koralia 3 to the on/off wavemaker for about a 15 second cycle. The result is perfect!!!
I get about a 3/4" wave in the tank. So, I was able to somewhat simulate what the Nano Wavebox does. The problem now is the on/off noise.
So, I am considering two options. I can buy the Koralia 3 12v pump with 2 way controller for about $289 + $50 = $339 or I can buy the Tunze 6055 and single controller 7091 for $227 + $66 = $293.
There are pros and cons to both.
The Tunze fits much better in the sump holes, plus I can put it in any hole. But, the controller limits me to only using the one pump. If I upgrade to a two pump/controller system, it will cost a lot more ($227pump +66single controller or $225double controller) than upgrading the Koralia ($52 for one pump and done).
The Koralia controller allows for many more options and upgrade to two pumps for just $50 more. The disadvantage is that it does not fit the sump wall holes as well. I have to use the cone adapter. It is also a bigger pump, so I can only use the pump in the left two holes. The Nano Skimmer is in the right section of the sump and only the Tunze pumps fit on that side.
Any thoughts or experince with these controller systems would be helpful.
Oh, I also bought a nice red/purple Aussie Acan and a teal/purple Aussie micromussa.
Because they grow slow and I have two other beauties in the tank already, I was thinking about mounting these four acans on the ring. I can fill in the spaces with shrooms or zoanthids.
I plan to use a plating LPS or sps on the column walls. I mounted a neon green potato chip coral to one wall and a neon green/ pale blue to white mouthed Platygyra to the other wall. I would like to add one more platy and something else.
Any thoughts on these corals? I will try and post some photos tomorrow.
I have been getting a bit of algae on the sandbed on the left side of the tank where flow is softer. I hope the wave action corrects this problem.
Cheers
I had been using two Tunze 6025 and one Koralia 2 pump. The Koralia bareley moved any flow when placing your hand in fromt of it.
I think the major issue was that the current going into the sump had only 2 active holes for drain. So, the pressure placed on teh Koralia was too overwhelming.
I stumbled across the new Tunze Nano Wavebox last night and resparked my interest in creating true waves in the tank.
I have been playing around with a simple on/off Wavemaker in the past. I revisted that today. The Koralia pump starts fairly soft, with occasional back spins. The Tunze starts hard and backspins often without recorrecting itself.
So, what I came up with is to run the Tunze pump as constant on. Then, I picked up a Koralia 3 today. It is just about equal in current output as the Tunze 6025 (a tad stronger maybe).
I noticed that the Koralia 3 impellar fits the Koralia 2 base perfectly. Wish I knew that, I would have just bought a replacement impeller for $7.00. Does anyone know if the Koralia 4 impeller will also fit this base?
I connected the Koralia 3 to the on/off wavemaker for about a 15 second cycle. The result is perfect!!!
I get about a 3/4" wave in the tank. So, I was able to somewhat simulate what the Nano Wavebox does. The problem now is the on/off noise.
So, I am considering two options. I can buy the Koralia 3 12v pump with 2 way controller for about $289 + $50 = $339 or I can buy the Tunze 6055 and single controller 7091 for $227 + $66 = $293.
There are pros and cons to both.
The Tunze fits much better in the sump holes, plus I can put it in any hole. But, the controller limits me to only using the one pump. If I upgrade to a two pump/controller system, it will cost a lot more ($227pump +66single controller or $225double controller) than upgrading the Koralia ($52 for one pump and done).
The Koralia controller allows for many more options and upgrade to two pumps for just $50 more. The disadvantage is that it does not fit the sump wall holes as well. I have to use the cone adapter. It is also a bigger pump, so I can only use the pump in the left two holes. The Nano Skimmer is in the right section of the sump and only the Tunze pumps fit on that side.
Any thoughts or experince with these controller systems would be helpful.
Oh, I also bought a nice red/purple Aussie Acan and a teal/purple Aussie micromussa.
Because they grow slow and I have two other beauties in the tank already, I was thinking about mounting these four acans on the ring. I can fill in the spaces with shrooms or zoanthids.
I plan to use a plating LPS or sps on the column walls. I mounted a neon green potato chip coral to one wall and a neon green/ pale blue to white mouthed Platygyra to the other wall. I would like to add one more platy and something else.
Any thoughts on these corals? I will try and post some photos tomorrow.
I have been getting a bit of algae on the sandbed on the left side of the tank where flow is softer. I hope the wave action corrects this problem.
Cheers
cerreta
Premium Member
Major Update. My addiction has been refueled. I really want to complete this project again. It has been almost a year since setting it up at the office.
FLOW:
No more jacking around. I am convinced that Tunze is the best for this project. The tank was built around the 6025s. The holes cut into the glass are perfect. The Koralia fit with the cone extender, but it is not a great fit, plus that pump is huge.
So, I am going with 2 6055 pumps and the new 7096 controller, if they ever hit the market. There has been a delay here.
These pumps will be put in wave mode, to surge the water. It will mimic the Nano Wave box. In fact, the sump will mimic the box and the 6055 is the same pump that is used in the Nano Waxebox.
LIGHTING:
I love Metal Halides and the Solana Orb, but what kinda project is this without pushing the envelope of newest trends. Therefore, I just purchased an Aqua Illumination single bank LED System.
The AI will be hung in pendant fashion like the orb. The wires are bigger, so I am going to have to custom bend a larger pipe to mimic the solana system. It should look great. I will probably paint or powder coat the post.
CONTROLLER:
I decided to break down my nano tank at home. So, I will put the Aquacontroller 2 to work on . . . da Artsy Cube. The other controller wil be the light controller by AI
Last but not least is the stand. Details in a second
FLOW:
No more jacking around. I am convinced that Tunze is the best for this project. The tank was built around the 6025s. The holes cut into the glass are perfect. The Koralia fit with the cone extender, but it is not a great fit, plus that pump is huge.
So, I am going with 2 6055 pumps and the new 7096 controller, if they ever hit the market. There has been a delay here.
These pumps will be put in wave mode, to surge the water. It will mimic the Nano Wave box. In fact, the sump will mimic the box and the 6055 is the same pump that is used in the Nano Waxebox.
LIGHTING:
I love Metal Halides and the Solana Orb, but what kinda project is this without pushing the envelope of newest trends. Therefore, I just purchased an Aqua Illumination single bank LED System.
The AI will be hung in pendant fashion like the orb. The wires are bigger, so I am going to have to custom bend a larger pipe to mimic the solana system. It should look great. I will probably paint or powder coat the post.
CONTROLLER:
I decided to break down my nano tank at home. So, I will put the Aquacontroller 2 to work on . . . da Artsy Cube. The other controller wil be the light controller by AI
Last but not least is the stand. Details in a second
cerreta
Premium Member
Marc, you will be thrilled to know that I have glued some zoanthids to the ring. I will have to get some photos up soon. It looks pretty cool, but a lot of growing is needed to fill in the ring with a continual mat of zoas.
I need to hire someone to build the stand. Does anyone have the ability to do this project, or know of someone who may be able to build it? I prefer someone in Tucson or Phoenix area, so that we can work on the minor details together. As I am sure there will be some flaws in the paper design.
In the sketchup photos (not the best sketch because my lack of sketchup skill), the green color represent the 10†half cylinder that will freely spin around the 8†fixed half cylinder with shelves. The photos should help conceptualize this project.
. . . da Artsy-Cylinder Stand
Technical Description:
The top and bottom plates are boxes: 14x14x5 inches.
The Top Box will receive all electrical from the tank by a hole in the back of the box. A black ABS elbow and pipe will seamlessly join the bulkhead from the sump to the Top Box. A 6¨ hole on the bottom of the Top Box will permit electrical wires to pass into the Center Half Cylinder.
The Bottom Box will have a hole in the back for a single power cord to run to an AC outlet. A 3¨ hole in the top of the Bottom Box will allow the one cord to pass into the Center Half Cylinder.
The Center Half Cylinder will be an 8¨ metal pipe halfed longitudinally. It will be aprox 24¨ long. It will be welded to the Top and Bottom Boxes. Several metal shelves will be welded into the Half Cylinder. The back of each shelf will have a 2¨ semi-circle cut into the shelf. This permits electrical wiring to run through the cylinder and keeps everything nice a tidy.
The Rolling Half Cylinder Door (this is the magical artsy piece!!!) will be a 10¨ metal pipe halfed longitudinally. It will be aprox 24¨ long. It will be welded to a bearing at the Top and Bottom Box. This bearing is a 12¨ bearing plate that can be welded to two surfaces, the Box and the Rolling Door. The bearing is shaped like a ring and fits around the 8¨ fixed Center Half Cylinder. This bearing is frequently used for building swivel TV stands and a Lazy Susan. So if you can image these devices, this is the bearing I will use. The Rolling Door will be able to roll 360 degrees unobstructed. This is the reason why the Top and Bottom Boxes are necessary. These keep all wiring inside the stand so that the Rolling Door can spin freely.
So, when I need to access some fish food, I just roll the door open, grab what I need and roll it shut when done. Æ'º
Adding to the Artsy theme, I continue to incorporate vertical lines and square shapes with the boxes offset with a round cylinder in the center. Of course this will all be black and I will likely not have a handle on the Rolling Door. However, if I choose to use one, it will be a brushed aluminum ball handle mounted dead center in the Rolling Door.
I need to hire someone to build the stand. Does anyone have the ability to do this project, or know of someone who may be able to build it? I prefer someone in Tucson or Phoenix area, so that we can work on the minor details together. As I am sure there will be some flaws in the paper design.
In the sketchup photos (not the best sketch because my lack of sketchup skill), the green color represent the 10†half cylinder that will freely spin around the 8†fixed half cylinder with shelves. The photos should help conceptualize this project.
. . . da Artsy-Cylinder Stand
Technical Description:
The top and bottom plates are boxes: 14x14x5 inches.
The Top Box will receive all electrical from the tank by a hole in the back of the box. A black ABS elbow and pipe will seamlessly join the bulkhead from the sump to the Top Box. A 6¨ hole on the bottom of the Top Box will permit electrical wires to pass into the Center Half Cylinder.
The Bottom Box will have a hole in the back for a single power cord to run to an AC outlet. A 3¨ hole in the top of the Bottom Box will allow the one cord to pass into the Center Half Cylinder.
The Center Half Cylinder will be an 8¨ metal pipe halfed longitudinally. It will be aprox 24¨ long. It will be welded to the Top and Bottom Boxes. Several metal shelves will be welded into the Half Cylinder. The back of each shelf will have a 2¨ semi-circle cut into the shelf. This permits electrical wiring to run through the cylinder and keeps everything nice a tidy.
The Rolling Half Cylinder Door (this is the magical artsy piece!!!) will be a 10¨ metal pipe halfed longitudinally. It will be aprox 24¨ long. It will be welded to a bearing at the Top and Bottom Box. This bearing is a 12¨ bearing plate that can be welded to two surfaces, the Box and the Rolling Door. The bearing is shaped like a ring and fits around the 8¨ fixed Center Half Cylinder. This bearing is frequently used for building swivel TV stands and a Lazy Susan. So if you can image these devices, this is the bearing I will use. The Rolling Door will be able to roll 360 degrees unobstructed. This is the reason why the Top and Bottom Boxes are necessary. These keep all wiring inside the stand so that the Rolling Door can spin freely.
So, when I need to access some fish food, I just roll the door open, grab what I need and roll it shut when done. Æ'º
Adding to the Artsy theme, I continue to incorporate vertical lines and square shapes with the boxes offset with a round cylinder in the center. Of course this will all be black and I will likely not have a handle on the Rolling Door. However, if I choose to use one, it will be a brushed aluminum ball handle mounted dead center in the Rolling Door.
FadeToGrey
New member
Very cool. Just found your thread, and it is good to see someone doing something unique! Can't wait to see the zoa ring.
cerreta
Premium Member
Here is a photo update. The zoanthid colony on the side has been trimmed to help fill in the ring. I would like to get a few more different kinds.
The other stuff on the bottom is just some junk lying around. I moved these over from the home tank, but I have not decided what to do with them.
The acans are very slow growers. I was considering mounting them on the wall, but it would take years before they grew on there. Any thoughts?
The other stuff on the bottom is just some junk lying around. I moved these over from the home tank, but I have not decided what to do with them.
The acans are very slow growers. I was considering mounting them on the wall, but it would take years before they grew on there. Any thoughts?
kidkaos520
New member
I would love to see that thing in person...very very nice
cerreta
Premium Member
kid, the tank is at work. You can come visit me at the American Lung Association on Broadway road. You may want to call first to make sure I am there. I travel a lot for lung health education courses.
520-323-1812
Marc, thanks for the finger poke in the eye.
You are right. That thing would look awesome by now.
The frogfish died awhile back. I fed him some bad feeders and he croaked the very next day. It was so sad.
I have others in teh tank now, so I will not likely go the single exotic fish route.
520-323-1812
Marc, thanks for the finger poke in the eye.
You are right. That thing would look awesome by now.The frogfish died awhile back. I fed him some bad feeders and he croaked the very next day. It was so sad.
I have others in teh tank now, so I will not likely go the single exotic fish route.
melev
Well-known member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14844154#post14844154 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cerreta
Marc, thanks for the finger poke in the eye.
:lol: Sorry, I was just teasing.
Aww. So sorry to hear that. He was a pretty fish.
truthdesigns
New member
Nice got some color in there!!!!!
