dino experiment

The most frustrating part of this topic is all the conflicting information? You never know if your talking too someone with [profanity] syndrome, an award winning Microbiologist, or simply people dealing with multiple strains of a similar organism. Pants, Are you still doing the ID and survey?
 
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The most frustrating part of this topic is all the conflicting information? You never know if your talking too someone with [profanity] syndrome, an award winning Microbiologist, or simply people dealing with multiple strains of a similar organism. Pants, Are you still doing the ID and survey?

+1

Also, the fact that all of our tanks are so different means that what works great for one person is not necessarily protocol for another. Not only as far as the strain of Dino, but considering our unique tank chemistry... I have mostly soft corals so I've gotten away with a 14 day blackout with minor ill effects... can't really do that with an SPS tank.

Tough pest to say the least.
 
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I am going to send a sample to pants once the weather stabilizes. The only exception would be if I beat this stuff before I get a chance to send a sample.
 
I am going to send a sample to pants once the weather stabilizes. The only exception would be if I beat this stuff before I get a chance to send a sample.

I'm in the same boat - waiting for the weather to warm up, but hopeful I can beat it before then :rolleyes:
 
I think I already written how I got rid of mine somewhere in this thread but...who will go through 33 pages.

Went to home depot to buy something non aquarium related and happened to pass by their section of compact florescent bulbs. Noticed that they had a new, MUCH stronger, 5500k bulb (175w equivalent if I remember right). Picked one up, got home, changed the old bulb over the refugium/diy ghetto algae scrubber and a couple of weeks later...no more Dinos.

This is after having tried EVERYTHING for about a year.

Just goes to show that when it comes to almost all "algae" problems, nutrient starvation is king!



Btw, I still have dinos, they grow on and off on the algae scrubber along with the occasional spot of purple Cyano and hair algae but you never see any of them in the main tank. I use a large HOB filter with a pad of filter fluff draped diagonally from it and into the water. It gives fast growing slimy algae types something to hold onto and grow on and wow, can they grow! This idea that Dinos and Cyano does not like flowing water is totally wrong, they are just not very good at holding on. Give them something to anchor too and they both love fast flowing water.
 
I think I already written how I got rid of mine somewhere in this thread but...who will go through 33 pages.

Went to home depot to buy something non aquarium related and happened to pass by their section of compact florescent bulbs. Noticed that they had a new, MUCH stronger, 5500k bulb (175w equivalent if I remember right). Picked one up, got home, changed the old bulb over the refugium/diy ghetto algae scrubber and a couple of weeks later...no more Dinos.

This is after having tried EVERYTHING for about a year.

Just goes to show that when it comes to almost all "algae" problems, nutrient starvation is king!


Btw, I still have dinos, they grow on and off on the algae scrubber along with the occasional spot of purple Cyano and hair algae but you never see any of them in the main tank. I use a large HOB filter with a pad of filter fluff draped diagonally from it and into the water. It gives fast growing slimy algae types something to hold onto and grow on and wow, can they grow! This idea that Dinos and Cyano does not like flowing water is totally wrong, they are just not very good at holding on. Give them something to anchor too and they both love fast flowing water.

My fuge is currently in a separate 5 gallon bucket as I didn't want peroxide to end up killing the chaeto. I'll probably add it back to my sump at some point.
 
Pants, Are you still doing the ID and survey?

I am still doing the ID and survey stuff. I've sort of hidden the website away here since I haven't had time to make it look decent and include some helpful info.

The most frustrating part of this topic is all the conflicting information? You never know if your talking too someone with [profanity] syndrome, an award winning Microbiologist, or simply people dealing with multiple strains of a similar organism.

So just for the record I'm not an award winning Microbiologist. I'm a grad student working on my PhD working with dinos. This is a bit of a departure from all my formal training since all of that was on vertebrates (mostly salamanders). While an undergrad at Berkeley I was lucky enough to be chosen to go to a research station that Berkeley has in Mo'orea, French Polynesia and that is where I discovered dinoflagellates. I studied coral bleaching and recovery of fungid corals when exposed to different strains of symbiodinium. When I'm in a coral store I am always drawn to the fungids, and I love going to public aquariums and telling people, who otherwise just walk right past it to look at more fish, about coral (I volunteered as a docent for awhile).

My PhD is about genomics in dinoflagellates. So all this pest dino stuff is pretty far from what has become my expertise. You guys would all be much better served by a dino researcher who does more biochemistry or ecology than me. If I wasn't so curious I could have done my whole PhD without ever looking at a dino under the microscope and spent 99% of my time at the computer. I'm looking mostly at biotech when I finish the PhD, but the pest stuff has made me consider a job working for one of the aquarium supplement companies really digging deep into solutions for pests.

That all might be TMI, but I've just spent all night throwing up and rolling around in pain due to injuries from a car accident 2 weeks ago and my stomach is starting to settle a bit now and I'm in a sharing mood for some reason. (Now thats TMI).

On the trap idea, how small do I need to go with the sock? The 25 micron does not seem to be small enough.

It really depends on your genus of dino. Ostreopsis and Gambierdiscus are both pretty large cells (40 micron +), but Amphidinium is sometimes about half that size and the tiny dino I've haven't been able to put a genus to is a bit less than 10. Ostreopsis, Gambierdiscus and Amphidinium all have a flattened body plan (like a sesame seed) typical of benthic dinoflagellates (woohoo for convergent evolution).

The sizes I just quoted for these genera are actually the longest dimension. Ostreopsis and Gamierdiscus are maybe 20 microns thick (varies widely between species, but the ones I've actually pulled from tanks are this size). Amphidinium is so thin I've never managed to measure it. If you take a look at the movies I've posted you can occasionally see the cells turn on their side. If the whole length is 20 they are maybe 5 microns thick and 10 microns wide (just eye-balling it here so your guess is as good as mine).

I don't even have a sump on my tank (its a dirty lps/softy tank) so I've only worked setting up a light trap for flatworms. I've been curious how they measure pore size.

+1

Also, the fact that all of our tanks are so different means that what works great for one person is not necessarily protocol for another. Not only as far as the strain of Dino, but considering our unique tank chemistry... I have mostly soft corals so I've gotten away with a 14 day blackout with minor ill effects... can't really do that with an SPS tank.

Tough pest to say the least.

I've mostly seen dinos in sps tanks with vigorous nutrient reduction. You might be a good candidate to try raising your phosphates/nitrate a tiny bit to see if you can get other algae to wipe out your dinos for you. Dinos are not competitive at high nutrient levels.

I am going to send a sample to pants once the weather stabilizes. The only exception would be if I beat this stuff before I get a chance to send a sample.

I'm in the same boat - waiting for the weather to warm up, but hopeful I can beat it before then :rolleyes:

Good news is it seems like a lot of people seem to beat their dinos while waiting to send me samples. I'm good luck like that I guess.
 
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My fuge is currently in a separate 5 gallon bucket as I didn't want peroxide to end up killing the chaeto. I'll probably add it back to my sump at some point.

I ran peroxide with Chaeto in my refugium and it didn't bat an eyelash.....nor did the Dinos and I ran it aggressively at 3 times the recommended safe dosage. Yes I was desperate.....

I don't think it was the refugium itself that cleared my Dinos though. I suspect it was the diagonal algae scrubber paired up with the new very strong light. They loved it so much that I guess they exhausted what ever advantage they had. They would form a 1/4th inch thick mat in days that I could just rinse off.

Scientific huh...lol
 
I caught the dinos early and had previous experience with them. I dosed 1ml Hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gallons for 10 days with a 4 day blackout. Ramped the lights back up slowly over two weeks. I did loose a 2 acans, but everything else was fine and I haven't seen a dino in 5 months.
I also used kalk to bring the ph up to 8.4-8.5.
 
Well I am now fairly sure the organism I am dealing with is toxic to fish. My snails have not been effected but today my Diamond spot was eating in the area that has grown back and I returned to it rolling and twitching, looked like a horrible way to go. I will not be replacing him until this is sorted out. Would start over but since I have no idea how these were acquired I really don't see the point.
 
I suspect it was the diagonal algae scrubber paired up with the new very strong light.

can you post some info on the scrubber you made, and also the specific bulb? I'm going to give this a shot. i've never run a scrubber... my fuge bulb is a 6500k cfl - it says it's a "100w replacement only using 23w"
 
can you post some info on the scrubber you made, and also the specific bulb? I'm going to give this a shot. i've never run a scrubber... my fuge bulb is a 6500k cfl - it says it's a "100w replacement only using 23w"

It is just a big patch of those "cut to size" while filter pads draped over a hob filter and into the refugium. It is easy beyond belief...a 5 year old can do it :) .

My light is a 5500k 175w (or so, it is the only one they have that is substantially stronger than all the other PC bulbs) equivalent PC from Home Depot. Sry but I don't remember the make and it isn't on the bulb but there isn't anything else you can really confuse it with if you are close to a Home Depot. It lights up both the fuge and scrubber for now, could possibly add one more but I don't have any algae problems anymore so....why waste the electricity.

I then cram that bulb into a clamp light for that ultimate touch of style and sophistication......
 
Just wanted to give an update of my battle.

The dinos are completely gone. Like zero signs of dinos or any brown algae. Zero bubbles anywhere.

Ever since I slowed down my sump turnover my tank has been getting better and better. I never had to limit the lights, or do a water change or reduce feeding...just slowed down my sump turnover.

Best of luck to all battling
 
Just wanted to give an update of my battle.

The dinos are completely gone. Like zero signs of dinos or any brown algae. Zero bubbles anywhere.

Ever since I slowed down my sump turnover my tank has been getting better and better. I never had to limit the lights, or do a water change or reduce feeding...just slowed down my sump turnover.

Best of luck to all battling

No way. That's awesome. What is the theory behind this?
 
I'd guess its either more time for nutrient uptake for macro in the sump or more time for skimmer uptake.
 
Well, I'd have to say that neither of those make sense to me in a continuous circulation setting (unlike a single pass). Higher flow would mean higher organics available for the skimmer and higher nutrients for the macroalgae, which should not translate to lower overall uptake or export.

But luckily, something worked. :)
 
Zero dinos still, completely gone. I now welcome the current bubble algae and aiptasia. Those are easy. Ever since turning down my sump turnover I have had zero dinos.

I dont run any macro algae, took off my carbon and GFO, sand bed has never been whiter in my life of reefing. My tank literally looks better than it ever has. I am running an oversized skimmer if that means anything. My in tank circulation is still random with reasonable flow, but the sump is very slow and skimmer works great. I would recommend slowing down the flow to anyone with dino issues, granted you have a quality skimmer, maybe even any skimmer.

I am happy to conclude that my issue is solved and I would add this method as a possible resolution to dino eradication.
 
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