Dinoflagellates.

karimwassef said:
Yes. Doesn't do anything
Click to expand...
What about raising pH for a few days to around 8.4 - 8.6?

I have been looking up ways to do this, but can not figure it out. I do not have auto top off, so it wouldn't be possible to use kalk.

Any ideas on what I can do to raise pH? My cal is 460 and Alk is 10 so I don't want to do anything to raise those either.
 
Billybatz9 said:
What about raising pH for a few days to around 8.4 - 8.6?

I have been looking up ways to do this, but can not figure it out. I do not have auto top off, so it wouldn't be possible to use kalk.

Any ideas on what I can do to raise pH? My cal is 460 and Alk is 10 so I don't want to do anything to raise those either.
Click to expand...

You could still use a little kalk mixed up and dripped in very slowly. People have done for that a long time or a supplemental dosage. Get a jug, mix it up, insert an airline tube(off the bottom), and start a siphon. Then tie off the airline tub siphon so it very slowly drips. Alk may go up slightly but the pH will increase even more especially if combined with the CO2 scrubber mentioned in that other thread.
 
jason2459 said:
You could still use a little kalk mixed up and dripped in very slowly. People have done for that a long time or a supplemental dosage. Get a jug, mix it up, insert an airline tube(off the bottom), and start a siphon. Then tie off the airline tub siphon so it very slowly drips. Alk may go up slightly but the pH will increase even more especially if combined with the CO2 scrubber mentioned in that other thread.
Click to expand...
I guess it's worth a shot. Never dealt with kalk, so I hope I don't kill anything
 
I've kept it at 8.6 for a couple of weeks and kept Mag at 1600. If you use kalk to keep the pH up, you have to keep your salinity and Mg high or your calcium will precipitate.

Did nothing...
 
After almost 18 months, I come back to the same basic concepts... Competition and predation.

Every single reef tank has some population of dinos. They're natural. The epidemic occurs because something ELSE is missing. So the dinos occupy the most biological range they can.
 
What's missing? Bacteria, biofauna, good dinos, pods, benthic plankton, algae, macroalgae...

Maybe combination of these. In the end, the dino explosion is the result of an immature and uncultured system that is being fed with light or nutrients.

So, it's not about making the environment hostile for dinos. They are likely the most resilient pests in the ocean. It's about making it more favorable for other life and making sure that life has properly seeded the system.
 
There are plenty of things we haven't tried yet. For example, how about a water transfusion?

Yes- like a blood transfusion. Take dirty water from a well established system and use it instead of fresh makeup water. The more established and healthy the donor system, the better.

Or a sand transfusion.

I still like the lightem and trashem dino trap idea. Run 100% dark, except for one contained area that is brightly lit with a mesh for them to grab on to. The return into darkness can be driven through a fine mesh and a UV. Run the dark/light setup until the mesh is thick with them. Then break off the flow (go around the container) and throw away the container, mesh and water.

Maybe that's the precursor to the water transfusion.
 
karimwassef said:
What's missing? Bacteria, biofauna, good dinos, pods, benthic plankton, algae, macroalgae...

Maybe combination of these. In the end, the dino explosion is the result of an immature and uncultured system that is being fed with light or nutrients.

So, it's not about making the environment hostile for dinos. They are likely the most resilient pests in the ocean. It's about making it more favorable for other life and making sure that life has properly seeded the system.
Click to expand...

What would you suggest to buy to properly seed tank with micro fauna and algae?
 
karimwassef said:
There are plenty of things we haven't tried yet. For example, how about a water transfusion?

Yes- like a blood transfusion. Take dirty water from a well established system and use it instead of fresh makeup water. The more established and healthy the donor system, the better.

Or a sand transfusion.

I still like the lightem and trashem dino trap idea. Run 100% dark, except for one contained area that is brightly lit with a mesh for them to grab on to. The return into darkness can be driven through a fine mesh and a UV. Run the dark/light setup until the mesh is thick with them. Then break off the flow (go around the container) and throw away the container, mesh and water.

Maybe that's the precursor to the water transfusion.
Click to expand...

You might be on to something here. I have had success moving dinoflagellates into my fuge by leaving the fuge light on a 24 hrs photo period and reducing the photo period and intensity in the display. As far as using water from another established system, I have read that dinoflagellates seem to melt away in some cases if they are added to a healthy system. I'd be interested in seeing results if someone tries it out.
 
Ich usually comes on infected animals, not in water.

Dinos are the last stage infection IMO. Just about anything else waterborne is more tolerable if you plan on keeping SPS.

I guess that just as with blood transfusions, you'd need to make sure your supply is healthy. But when I was ready to tear down the tank, this would have been acceptable risk. Like life-saving surgery... 10% chance of survival is better than 0%.
 
karimwassef said:
Ich usually comes on infected animals, not in water.

Dinos are the last stage infection IMO. Just about anything else waterborne is more tolerable if you plan on keeping SPS.

I guess that just as with blood transfusions, you'd need to make sure your supply is healthy. But when I was ready to tear down the tank, this would have been acceptable risk. Like life-saving surgery... 10% chance of survival is better than 0%.
Click to expand...

There is a free swimming stage of the ICH cycle.....
Usually comes in on fish but once its in .... its in. There was talk about transfusion of sand as well where ICH can incubate for a long time.
 
karimwassef said:
What's missing? Bacteria, biofauna, good dinos, pods, benthic plankton, algae, macroalgae...

Maybe combination of these. In the end, the dino explosion is the result of an immature and uncultured system that is being fed with light or nutrients.

So, it's not about making the environment hostile for dinos. They are likely the most resilient pests in the ocean. It's about making it more favorable for other life and making sure that life has properly seeded the system.
Click to expand...


I really think I had a major problem with feeding and that's what brought Dino's. Like half a cube of mysis every 3-4 days. (75 gal)

I feed a whole cube everyday now plus seaweed. Added a fuge with cheato. Added pods and phyto. Now I only see them when I do a water change that will last in a slight dusting for about a week. So they aren't gone yet, got my nitrates up to 40

So how do I keep my tank from getting too dirty because apparently I can never do a water change again? Ive looked into carbon dosing but have mixed feelings about it.
 
It might be how i promoted Dinos in the first place by using all dry rock with intent to keep ICH out. I added no live rock what so ever other than what came in on coral frags that make it past coral dip and H2O2.
I have limited diversity
 
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