Dinoflagellates.

Thanks Taricha.

I was planning to continue Dino X for the maximum duration, reading the posts above, would I be better using fluconazole do you think?

I have bryopsis that I was going to get rid of with it after the dinos.
I just quit dino-x after 5 doses because of the damage it was doing to my SPS.

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I'd try some fresh carbon and some water changes. The drop in ORP might be the result of decaying dinoflagellates or other organisms. Please let us know how long it takes the SPS to recover. I hope they'll be fine in a few days.
 
I'd try some fresh carbon and some water changes. The drop in ORP might be the result of decaying dinoflagellates or other organisms. Please let us know how long it takes the SPS to recover. I hope they'll be fine in a few days.
I did 25% water change 2 days ago and ran a new batch of rox carbon in my reactor. Will do water change again maybe tomorrow if not Wednesday.

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Update for me... I think the UV sterilizer running for a couple days is doing some damage to the dinos. My skimmer seems to be producing 10x the prior amount without changing my skimmer settings. Plus my filter floss is filling up much more quickly with brown. So I'm hoping this means millions of dead dino carcasses coming out if the UV and into the filtration. I also turkey basted the rock tonight and lightly blew at the sand to help stir more dinos into the water column. I was pleasantly surprised to see little, if any, brown film/dust collection on the rock after a few hours of lights. And there was only slight collection on the sand.. but minimal. Previously everything would have had had a decent layer of brown dust at this point. I'm optimistic.
 
Killings Dino's and exporting their dead tissue is just the start. You need algae to start taking over the nutrient removal process. Are you seeing algae?
 
Killings Dino's and exporting their dead tissue is just the start. You need algae to start taking over the nutrient removal process. Are you seeing algae?



No growth in my scrubber yet. My light may be too weak. Plus I forgot to rough up my screen and so I just did that. But with my NO3/NO4/PO4 all measuring zero... Do I need to dose to get it started?
 
No growth in my scrubber yet. My light may be too weak. Plus I forgot to rough up my screen and so I just did that. But with my NO3/NO4/PO4 all measuring zero... Do I need to dose to get it started?

PAR on a scrubber is key... you need excellent lighting to promote real growth.
 
You need proper light, flow and attachment. Get all these things down and you will be able to grow algae at zero N and P.

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Interesting! What is the magnification in the video? pretty high?
If so, I'm going with Amphidinium Carterae(?) I checked your thread with the tank pics here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627455 and the growth is a little fuzzier than typical amphidinium, Also the normal kind don't leave the sand so UV would be useless, but you say it's doing something.

It looks similar to some dinos I had in a small tank - see attached pic. The large ones are the typical amphidinium, but the tiny ones i think are a decent match to yours.
If they leave the sand and get killed by UV, then that's interesting new info.

If they are in fact Amphidinium Carterae, then.... this paper says they are 90% killed by 6.4 mg/L of peroxide (0.21 mL/L of our 3% h2o2) - but I couldn't replicate this result with even like 5 or 10x that dose.
This paper says they begin to self-destruct after 5 days of darkness, and are 100% dead never to return after 9 days of dark.
I haven't confirmed that either.
 

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So I still haven't done my tear down yet, been too busy. I figure before I do I may as well give UV a shot. How many watts do I need for a 120 with 30 sump? It seems something I can hook straight into the display through a loop or an internal model would be best since the little buggers are mostly in the display. I saw some internal models posted but it seems those are for much smaller tanks.
 
For controlling algae, a small unit should be fine. Even a 15 W unit should do the job. I don't think dinoflagellates should be particularly hard to kill, and you could cut back the flow if they seem to be problematic.
 
Mag is 1200. Most are similar size. I have not seen large and small variations like the pic u posted. And mine definitely leaves the sand. It actually seemed to be thickest on the rock when it was at its worst. And today's sample was from rock also.

And yup :) that was my initial thread before I found this dedicated dino thread. I almost forgot how ugly the tank was then! You can see in the pics there, my rock coverage is very dense compared to the more patchy rock coverage in the pics you attacked. But yeah, The dark definitely had a huge effect. I went 4 days, maybe 5? And it cleared it up a ton. But it came back... Maybe lights not out not long enough. I could go longer I think, as my corals have done fine with the blackout. I might also try h202 for safe measure. Thanks again everyone for all input! Huuuuge help!
 
So I still haven't done my tear down yet, been too busy. I figure before I do I may as well give UV a shot. How many watts do I need for a 120 with 30 sump? It seems something I can hook straight into the display through a loop or an internal model would be best since the little buggers are mostly in the display. I saw some internal models posted but it seems those are for much smaller tanks.



Yeah, my internal is 13W, and that would be insufficient for 150gal. Looks like there are 55w sterilizers pretty reasonable on amazon.
 
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