Dinoflagellates.

Seven bottles along the week (1/2 in the morning and 1/2 in the evening when lights off).
Two UV sterilizers (55 W and 11W on)
Total system 600 gal.
 
I noticed results in the first hours, but as soon as I stopped dosing they came back.

I got the best results stopping the skimmer and feeding with phytoplankton gel
This fostered new live, everything soon got covered with small feather dusters, tube worms, copepods, snails...that devoured the ostreopsis cells
 
What's phytoplankton gel? :)

On my part, I have to say that heavy mechanical filtration and agitation of the dinos off the surfaces seem to be working quite well. Possibly along with blacking out the fuge for days, allowing dinos to replicate only in the DT portion of the system.

All I really do is change the filter sock each morning. So far I blew dinos of the rocks and walls of the tank only once few days ago. I do have fairly strong circulation and open rock structure in the tank (run two gyre pumps). Today I only see few faint patches of dinos here and there, but definitely not as heavy as it was a bit over a week ago. I will shoot a quick video just to shot progress from now to the future I suppose and post it here in a bit.
 
Easy Booster from the manufacturer Easyreefs. Not sure if you can get it in the States.

It's not about removing dinoflagellates, the point is stopping them breed. If you slow down the pumps it will be easier to deal with them (strong streams only make them spread and thrive everywhere in the tank. You'd better slow down the pumps and suck them out twice a day (or as needed) with a little hose and a sock tied to its end and into the sump (to avoid necessity of water changes)
 
Well, I just do not want to really change the environment for the corals. Which is why I am keeping the same high flow and light schedule. But it seem to be working. While no corals really were suffering I do have some small anemones that were shrunk down for a while ever since dinos came into bloom, but in the past few days they've opened back up and look normal.
 
Phytoplankton or marine microalgae are microscopic vegetable cells that can be found dispersed in the sea.

New vegetable! :D

Sounds interesting, but I would guess be somewhat similar to those green water things, just easier to store etc.? Do not see which plankton is in it.
 
A mix of nanochloropsys, isochyris, tetraselmis and another one I don't recall.
This stuff makes copepods and featherdusters breed like crazy and those become an awesome source of food for fishes and corals (besides that they guzzle tons of dinoflagellates)
 
Sounds good.

I do have a lot of pods, mini brittle starfish, feather dusters, bristle worms etc. so there is plenty of life other than the fish and corals :)

Here is a quick video of the tank as of today. Do not have a before video, but there are few shots in the earlier posts where you can see heavy dusting of dinos in the tank. Sorry for being shacky, I just hand held the DSLR to quickly make a video.

 
Mine are back.

I added a lot of new coral and fish from a buddy who was breaking his down. He didn't have them.

I was feeding a little heavy for a week. Suddenly - bubbles all over. And mucusy.

UV is back on and I'm skimming 24hrs a day. I believe this is what worked before for me, so here we go again.
 
And I made a 100g water change (on my 660g system) and stopped feeding. I'm also increasing my water flow and turbulence.

I know this is violating the rules of Dino killing, but I think once there's enough bad guys, you need to eradicate the plankton ecosystem and start over. Hence the heavy UV, skimming, water change, no feeding, and excessive flow. I want to move the water column and get as much of the gunk flowing through my UV (to kill it) and skimmer (to export it).

Not raising pH or going dark this time.
 
Does anyone know if there are any natural predators? I was debating on adding a few wrasses see if that would reduce the Dino's numbers.
 
They're like poisonous bacterial strings. Predators are other zooplankton. I tried that and then decided to nuke all plankton.
 
Believe it or not. This is better :(
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My tank has the same issue except that mine is mostly on the sand which turns that brownish rust color. I have noticed a reduction in the Dinos over the last several days since I started dosing vodka (1ml/day) with stability. I don't know how it will work out long term but for now, my bubble algae is starting to die off, the Dinos are making a retreat and it is looking better overall.
 
I was dosing nopox to control mine. I stopped for a week and it came back. On some advice I tried pure L-ascorbic acid/vitamin C. That wasn't effective. I started dosing white distilled vinegar at 50mL/100g and 500mg of vitamin C daily. I was able to grow turf algae a few days ago. Looking promising so far. The true test will be if i let off the carbon dosing what happens. But honestly, this combo is looking so good - i'm not sure i want to test it. SPS and acans are showing some significant growth and my fish that used to flash on surfaces from time to time have stopped.

Ostereoposis
 
Over one month dino-free.
The best thing is that now I can easily control them. If I ever watch any dino evidence, I will just stop the skimmer and increase the phytoplankton dose.

I have so many pods that I can maintain six synchiropus in the same bare bottom tank and they are getting fat, lol
 
Sure. But if you're not lucky enough to get the right bug to kill the dinos, then you need to destroy the plankton phase long enough for a complete dino cycle.
Unless someone has bottled the right bugs, it's a crapshoot.

This is my second flare up and I mostly killed it in a week. Going to maintain it until they're eradicated.

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Oh. Here's my approach.
1. 100% on time Low flow 400gph UV 40W
2. 100% on time chaeto refugium
3. 100% on time skimmer
4. One day lights off and 15% water change
5. High flow in the DT
6. pH at 8.3 with a kalk drip

Here's my theory:

The UV destroys the dinos but it must be low flow and the tank water must be highly agitated to get them into the sterilizer.
The skimmer removes the waste product and pulls living dinos too.
The chaeto consumes the waste product too.
The lights off and water change flushes them out.
The kalk drip isn't about raising pH or alkalinity for the whole tank. I think it effects the water surface at night - plankton disruption.

Not sure about the theory, but it's worked twice now. The stuff that's not in the water column is the stubborn remnant but my crabs are slowly dislodging it.

No cure, but it suppresses the symptoms well enough.
 
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