Dinoflagellates.

Let's drill down and see if I can figure out more. Sadly, most of these are not very scientifically done.

Things that I think had little to no effect:

2) Protein Skimmer: I have always run a protein skimmer and have never taken it offline. It is a Super Reef Octopus 250.

3) UV Sterilizer: I tried this for awhile. It didn't "solve" the problem, but mine was undersized anyway. Not a great experiment.

5) Macroalgae. I have this is in a well-lit sump. Caulerpa and cheato. Tried increasing the light cycle. This actually grew VERY LITTLE while dino was active. Once dino died out, it's growth exploded. My conclusion was that dino is more effective at getting nutrients from the water. Caulerpa noticebly outcompetes the cheato.

6) Lights out. Lights out visually works for quite awhile. The longer you do lights out, the longer it takes for the dino to reappear. In my most desperate phase I went for 14-15 days. Some coral died (surprisingly few however). The dino was out for a long awhile, but it came back. I think this just delays the process.

7) Hydrogen Peroxide. This did absolutely nothing for me. Nothing at all. Even with 3 times the suggested dose for several weeks. I am absolutely amazed that so many people reported this working. This didn't really do much to my coral either, except they were annoyed right after dosing. I would say the overall effect on the tank was zero.

8) pH. This was an early experiment. And man it sucked. I killed some pumps using kalk for this and maintaining a high pH for a long time. No effect.


Things that may have had some effect:

3) Nutrient increase. I think actually the nutrient increase is a RESULT of a the dinos disappearing and no the cause of it, but eventually there was a nutrient increase. However, when I deliberately had tried to increase them it did not seem to work in the past. Just food for thought. I think dinos would make an excellent filtration system for our tanks, if but only they could be isolated. :)

Squid, I think you made some good points of interest in this posting. I'd like to add some of my results using these methods to your points.

2) Skimmer: Always skimmed during my battle with ostreopsis. They didn't disappear until a couple months after taking my skimmer out.

3) UV: Tried it. Aqua UV 25w run with a Maxijet 900. It slowed them down but did not eliminate the problem. I don't think it's the answer because you are killing off the good with the bad. I even tried running it for a week at a time and then dosing various forms of bacteria.

5) Macro algae: Similar results. Algae stopped growing while the dinos were in bloom. I eventually had to remove the macro algae because they were just serving as another host for dinos to cover. I had both dragon's breath/flame algae and chaeto.

6) Lights out: good short term effect, but not a solution

7) Peroxide: no impact

8) pH: elevated with kalk and even dumped kalk slurries, no impact on the dinos and stressful on my coral

What finally worked??? Nutrient increase. No skimmer. Grew algae on a DIY turf scrubber and tried to get it established anywhere else I could. No water changes for about 2-3 months. Lots of mechanical filtration with a diatom filter. I tried to maintain nitrates and phosphate at low but measurable levels to benefit algae growth. I even, at times, dosed iron, nitrate, silicate, and potassium (all typical ingredients of fertilizer). I also added amino acids. Eventually, the dinos diminished and disappeared. I stopped dosing the extra nutrients and started water changes again. I've been dino free for about 3 months now and my sps have finally started to thrive. I have no doubt that there are still dinos there but some other life form is keeping them at bay.
 
I took my UV off because it wasn't able to cure the dino problem. It just allowed my a bit more time between mechanical filtration.
 
So never having used a UV sterilizer, I've been reading up on it and the flow rate and power level need to be dialed in to kill different organisms. High flow just kills bacteria, medium = free flowing algae, slow = parasites.

Also they need to be free floating (obviously), some manual work will likely still be part of the cleanup.
 
welp my dinos are back..... they almost nuked my tank before i switched tanks.

I've ordered Ultra Algae X its my last hope out of everything this is the worst thing in this hobby and it fills me with dread knowing whats next if i cant stop it hopefully its works.
 
welp my dinos are back..... they almost nuked my tank before i switched tanks.

I've ordered Ultra Algae X its my last hope out of everything this is the worst thing in this hobby and it fills me with dread knowing whats next if i cant stop it hopefully its works.

Out of curiosity, what did you do when you switched tanks--i.e. what steps/precautions did you take? The reason I ask is because I'm essentially doing the same thing.
 
To all the folks here who saw their dino bloom end - or won the battle via some other means after a prolonged period of time - did you have issues with palytoxin given off by them? How did you deal with it?

Respiratory issues from red tides are well documented. I was convinced it was bothering my eyes and I've heard other people have had issues such as temporary deafness with dino blooms in their aquaria. Concern over my family's health was what caused me to resort to nuking the tank, not lack of patience.
 
All my snails died, a sea hare and fish but I haven't experienced anything.

I have 2 bags of GAC (2 lbs each) that I recently changed. That's the prescribed response to removing the toxins.
 
Last time I had dinos it had been going on for about 2 months and had almost killed alot of my lps. I was moving to a new place so when doing the move I threw away all my old sand and cleaned out the tank really well, well my rocks and life stock were in buckets.

I left it bare bottom and set the tank back up. The dinos on the rocks died off and my tank was good again! I had to have a 10g set up for my pistol and goby. 4 or 5 months after not having the dinos I bought a 55g and transfered everything into it and put sand back in.

I do think there is a for sure connection between when the tank is going from being a new tank and having all the nasty green algae and such to the point when that dies off that is when the dinos will come in

Last time i tried everything in this thread other then the ultra algae x before trashing my sand bed. So I'm going to try this bottle of snake oil that I had to order from canada cause apparently no US companies stock it. If it doesn't work I guess I will try removing my sand bed again which sucks cause I have a pistol shrimp. When I get the fauna marin I'll let you guys know if it works or not.
 
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I didn't try to UV thought i'm curious to hear an update on Jedimasterben's uv he is running because most people didn't seem to see too much of an effect from it. I tried double the recommended does of peroxide with little effect. Water changes cause them to increase drastically.

One thing that I think does work and I maybe have to bite the bullet and break down all my rock work to do it is dipping the rocks individually in a strong dip of hydrogen peroxide but this only seems to kill them off for a bit since there are still dinos in the tank
 
Hi folks!

My 600 gal system have been struck with an ostreopsis ovata bloom almost two months ago; I lost about 30 fishes, dozens of snails and urchins and many many SPSs, mainly acroporas.

It seems that some microorganism has entered the system and it's been about four days that I watch it vanish leaving a whitish mucilage behind (that is eaten by fishes, snails and even some corals). I see no damage in fish or inverts at all and the tank is now thriving.

Here is a video sample of what I am talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKeEeFt_gBU
 
Get a sample to a local university? Let's identify the new bug.

What did you add? Food? Live rock? Love sand? Salt? Additive?
 
Yes, my system was too ULNS and noticed important bacterial growth in the skimmate so I dumped the whole cup. Corals got very happy and extended polyps. One week later I noticed ostreopsis mucilage turning white and on the microscope I see millions of these microorganisms thriving.

I have also been dosing large amounts of Ca(OH)2 keeping pH around 8,7 and put off CO2 input to the Ca reactor.

Live rock was from Indonesia
 
a 55w pond sterilizer on my 34 gallon is what's doing the trick right now...i'm using very low flow, less than 300gph on the sterilizer which is rated at a max flow of 400gph for level 2 sterilization...i did a 3 day blackout right before installing the UV and then siphoned out and blew as much dinos into the water column as possible...it worked pretty much instantaneously, i've seen no signs of strings or bubbles since and it's been 3 weeks...i also removed more than half my sand bed just to be safe

not to say my problem is gone...if i don't see them again in 3 months then i'll claim i'm cured but 3 weeks and visually dino-free allowed me to enjoy my Christmas a whole lot more!

ps - these were all suggestions given to me by brandon429 from nano-reefs...it was his suggestion to go as big as possible and get a pond sterilizer so i take no credit for this
 
That's what I call nuking the plankton ecosystem. I'm running 40W on a 600gal. Hopefully the only difference will be the time it takes.
 
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