Dinoflagellates.

Started H202 dosing last night. On day 2 of blackout, No dino is growing and what was there appears to be changing color. Will suck out all of the dino from the tank tomorrow, (day 3 of the blackout). Then on day 4 of blackout I plan to install new sump, UV and skimmer. Turn lights on during day 5 only for 2 hours and slowly increase each day. In theory this will give the UV time to kill the dino in the water column before they receive light. I have a 55 gallon tank and a UV rated for 200 gallons, water should get blasted pretty hard. Will keep updating.
 
DNA said:
I just browsed through dozens of dino threads on the internet.
If you have seen a similar or better dino thread than this one please post a link.
Click to expand...

They're probably in the wrong forum entirely and want to ask about protein skimmers or something. :)
 
dustinkimpel said:
Started H202 dosing last night. On day 2 of blackout, No dino is growing and what was there appears to be changing color. Will suck out all of the dino from the tank tomorrow, (day 3 of the blackout). Then on day 4 of blackout I plan to install new sump, UV and skimmer. Turn lights on during day 5 only for 2 hours and slowly increase each day. In theory this will give the UV time to kill the dino in the water column before they receive light. I have a 55 gallon tank and a UV rated for 200 gallons, water should get blasted pretty hard. Will keep updating.
Click to expand...

Oo, you're braver than I am. How much h2o2 are you adding per gallon? Do you have inverts?

ivy
 
Quiet_Ivy said:
Oo, you're braver than I am. How much h2o2 are you adding per gallon? Do you have inverts?

ivy
Click to expand...

Just 1mil per 10 gallons. I have a cleaner shrimp and most of my snails died from the dino... I tried to catch the cleaner but I couldn't trap him... he was just to smart. Some people reported the h202 killing their shrimp but mine doesn't appear to be affected at the moment.
 
Dfee said:
Ok, when is it safe to add all the tiny critters ( pods, phyto, what else is recommended?) after Dino's start to recede after dirtying tank
Click to expand...
In my case I had physically beaten them back, I had removed my sand bed and got them to where they were a brown film growing on the rocks and glass but I could get no further, that's when I went dirty and started adding critters.
My dinos were caused by using algaex to try to rid a bubble algae problem, the algaex destroyed my micro fauna, every tube worm, brittle star, bristle worm, peanut worm, amphipod, copepod, you name it, I vacuumed their carcasses out for weeks.
I think it depends on the nutrient level of the tank, but IMO, I would take carbon, po4 remover and skimmer offline, no water changes and filter water back in if vacuuming, put 10uM socks on the drains and let the tank go until green micro algae is flourishing on the glass to where you can clean it everyday even encourage cyano. Then use chemiclean to get rid of the cyano(I did) and start adding critters and cleanup crew and phytoplankton, start skimming and a little bit of carbon. Now try to maintain po4 @ 0.03 and no3 @ 3ppm.
I am now back to my regular routine, I have a new sand bed back in weekly water changes, vacuum the half the sand every week, po4 binder, carbon, skimming 24/7, and enjoying the hobby again.
 
cal_stir said:
In my case I had physically beaten them back, I had removed my sand bed and got them to where they were a brown film growing on the rocks and glass but I could get no further, that's when I went dirty and started adding critters.
My dinos were caused by using algaex to try to rid a bubble algae problem, the algaex destroyed my micro fauna, every tube worm, brittle star, bristle worm, peanut worm, amphipod, copepod, you name it, I vacuumed their carcasses out for weeks.
I think it depends on the nutrient level of the tank, but IMO, I would take carbon, po4 remover and skimmer offline, no water changes and filter water back in if vacuuming, put 10uM socks on the drains and let the tank go until green micro algae is flourishing on the glass to where you can clean it everyday even encourage cyano. Then use chemiclean to get rid of the cyano(I did) and start adding critters and cleanup crew and phytoplankton, start skimming and a little bit of carbon. Now try to maintain po4 @ 0.03 and no3 @ 3ppm.
I am now back to my regular routine, I have a new sand bed back in weekly water changes, vacuum the half the sand every week, po4 binder, carbon, skimming 24/7, and enjoying the hobby again.
Click to expand...


Thanks! I just bought a canister filter and will use that to suck up as much as I can. Also purchased Chemi Clean.



I have a lot more green film algae growing over the dinos and it appears to be getting thicker. I can still see the bubble though. I wonder if anyone else has seen this?
 
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Here are some pics

uploadfromtaptalk1437688397462.jpguploadfromtaptalk1437688409630.jpg

Could be a green cyano however.
 
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Dfee said:
So let's say we're starting a system from scratch, what are all the critters? Phytoplankton, pods, what else?
Click to expand...

Buy quality live rock from someone like Walt Smith, Tampa Bay Saltwater, etc. They're ecologically sound and you will get a diversity of life already present. I'm never going to start anything with dry rock again.

hth
ivy
 
There is no "cure". Dinos are a natural part of every ecosystem. Some species can explode and cause a crisis, so the required result is to push them back into their natural state - under control.

You can never kill the genie. You can only put him back in the bottle and don't rub the bottle ever again.
 
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