Dinoflagellates.
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I got Fed up once during a dino infestation went lights out for three days and dosed 2ml of peroxide daily during that time in my 14 gallon and that was my nuclear option and it worked,not saying to do this but I was losing everything anyway and was all set to reboot the tank but my drastic move seemed to fix it!
Heuristic
New member
It seems like removing the bag of chemipure is working. I still have some dino, but they are not getting worse.
koral_lover
New member
I've been dealing with dinos for over a year....I tried most methods and nothing phased them. Suddenly, they are gone! I gave up trying stuff and just tried to ignore them. Due to neglect, other algae started to pop up. Dinos remained though, they grew on top of the algae I was growing all over the rock. So in attempt to kill off the "normal" algae I decided to start up some phosphate remover. I usually run GFO, but for some unknown reason I just decided to use up some phosguard I had. In the past GFO had no effect on my dinos - in fact usually a bloom happened after changing it, probably the iron I always assumed. Anyways, I added in some phosguard, which I never use, due to fear of aluminum leeching, but had some laying around, so what the heck.
Within 2-3 days I noticed a dramatic reduction in dinos. I decided to suck out what I could that remained into a thick filter sock and doubled the phosguard and changed it after 3 days. It has been a week now and dinos are "visibly" gone. I can't find a single dino strand.
I will report back if they remain at bay. A miracle folks, or perhaps just a dumb coincidence. I continue changing out my phosguard every 3-4 days...
Before everyone goes off and tries phosguard, give me to some time to report back. I still can't believe my eyes when looking at the tank.
Within 2-3 days I noticed a dramatic reduction in dinos. I decided to suck out what I could that remained into a thick filter sock and doubled the phosguard and changed it after 3 days. It has been a week now and dinos are "visibly" gone. I can't find a single dino strand.
I will report back if they remain at bay. A miracle folks, or perhaps just a dumb coincidence. I continue changing out my phosguard every 3-4 days...
Before everyone goes off and tries phosguard, give me to some time to report back. I still can't believe my eyes when looking at the tank.
karimwassef
Active member
maybe alumina kills dinos. In the early days of running my tank, I used phosguard too. This was before my eventful use of Lanthanum that precipitated the dinos.
I don't remember having dinos while I used phosguard but that's coincidence at this point.
We need other people to try it and see.
I can tell you that the alumina was the culprit in the death of almost all soft corals in my tank... zoas, xenia, gsp.. none survived until I removed it.
My sps was fine... I think I'll give phosguard another try since I'm trying to exterminate those nuisance softies again... hope the lps survive...
I don't remember having dinos while I used phosguard but that's coincidence at this point.
We need other people to try it and see.
I can tell you that the alumina was the culprit in the death of almost all soft corals in my tank... zoas, xenia, gsp.. none survived until I removed it.
My sps was fine... I think I'll give phosguard another try since I'm trying to exterminate those nuisance softies again... hope the lps survive...
Issues with my new 135g
Issues with my new 135g
Ok everyone. I am not new to reefing. I had a 180g a few years ago but had to tear down due to a divorce. Back in Novemebr of 2016 I decided to get back in with a 28g nano tank. Everything was great. A very healthy tank. Then I got a good deal on a 135g 4ft long tank. And so the build started for about 4 months. As I knew that I wanted to do it right and not skimp on anything. So after building my fish room in th ebasemant getting my new sump and all the needed supplies I started the tank up about 2 months ago. Left the lights off and allowed the tank to cycle. Once the tank was cycled (3weeks) I moved everything over to the new tank. Including my rock from the nano. ALl of the new rock was purchased from a reputable LFS and was all dry. SO moved the lights over and turned everything on and boom in 2 weeks i have an outbreak. I am not 100% sure it was dinos but looks very simialiar. The only thing that is not confimring to me that it is Dinos is that when I do siphon off the brown stuf it does leave an hair algea type plant attached to the rock and is of a light tan to light brown in color. It will only come off if I brush it off. But it does have a bubble that forms in it. I have had 3 shrimp and many snails perish along with a Lawnmower blenny and small blue eyed tang. I do have a Algae Turf Scubber on-line that was starting to go green algae the first couple of weeks but since has turned all completey brown. I do not know what my phospahte leve are at as I do not have a test kit for this. One thing that I do notice is that this stuff will not grow on the rock that was in the Nano tank as it is covered in coraline algae. I do very heavy water changes 30-60gallons a week. I have noticed that since I have put some GAC and chemipure in my filter socks it has slowed down. I will attach some pics if anyone can help Id this. I do not have a microscope though
I did purchase 2x BRS jumbo reactors today for GAC and GFO. And I also purchased every single Salifiert test kit as well.
Issues with my new 135g
Ok everyone. I am not new to reefing. I had a 180g a few years ago but had to tear down due to a divorce. Back in Novemebr of 2016 I decided to get back in with a 28g nano tank. Everything was great. A very healthy tank. Then I got a good deal on a 135g 4ft long tank. And so the build started for about 4 months. As I knew that I wanted to do it right and not skimp on anything. So after building my fish room in th ebasemant getting my new sump and all the needed supplies I started the tank up about 2 months ago. Left the lights off and allowed the tank to cycle. Once the tank was cycled (3weeks) I moved everything over to the new tank. Including my rock from the nano. ALl of the new rock was purchased from a reputable LFS and was all dry. SO moved the lights over and turned everything on and boom in 2 weeks i have an outbreak. I am not 100% sure it was dinos but looks very simialiar. The only thing that is not confimring to me that it is Dinos is that when I do siphon off the brown stuf it does leave an hair algea type plant attached to the rock and is of a light tan to light brown in color. It will only come off if I brush it off. But it does have a bubble that forms in it. I have had 3 shrimp and many snails perish along with a Lawnmower blenny and small blue eyed tang. I do have a Algae Turf Scubber on-line that was starting to go green algae the first couple of weeks but since has turned all completey brown. I do not know what my phospahte leve are at as I do not have a test kit for this. One thing that I do notice is that this stuff will not grow on the rock that was in the Nano tank as it is covered in coraline algae. I do very heavy water changes 30-60gallons a week. I have noticed that since I have put some GAC and chemipure in my filter socks it has slowed down. I will attach some pics if anyone can help Id this. I do not have a microscope though
I did purchase 2x BRS jumbo reactors today for GAC and GFO. And I also purchased every single Salifiert test kit as well.
I have no idea whether the fluconazole affected my dinos, or if it was the UV sterilizer, or if it was swapping the carbon for high GFO. Just sharing my experience. I didn't take any pictures of the dino, but it was the stringy kind with bubbles in it (it looked like the picture below).
Fluco works by inhibiting sterol conversion, which may play a role in the structure of dino as well, or it could be a huge coincidence. I'm an N=1 here, not sure if anyone has been dealing simultaneously with bryo and dino, and did the fluco regimen.
It's been three months now, and my dino hasn't yet returned. UV+Fluco seemed to be quite the ticket.
Good stuff!
UV, many people have had success with vs dinos. Of species specifically tested, the common Large Cell Amphidinium is the only one we know uv doesn't work on.
Fluco is magic bullet vs bryopsis, but haven't seen much reported success vs dinos.
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UV, many people have had success with vs dinos. Of species specifically tested, the common Large Cell Amphidinium is the only one we know uv doesn't work on.
Fluco is magic bullet vs bryopsis, but haven't seen much reported success vs dinos.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
jason2459
Well-known member
fwiw, I've been playing with an apex flow meter and UV to track any kind of changes that are typically reported. Its a 56w aqua ultraviolet. I've ran flow at 1000-1200gph, 800-1000gph, and 500-600gph.
I've noticed no difference to anything really. As if I never put it on. I did push up some feeding slightly and spurred some cyano/dino growth. Nothing major just wanted to see if I could at each level if flow and so far the UV has had no impact on the ability to cause the minor outbreak or speed up the removal of it. Both major types of dinos are alive and well in my system but still controllable through my normal routines.
I'm currently spurring it on and testing 400-500gph flow through the UV.
I took this picture a couple nights ago. Bottom left you can see a small amount of cyano. Like I said just pushing it enough to spur on a tiny amount.
I've noticed no difference to anything really. As if I never put it on. I did push up some feeding slightly and spurred some cyano/dino growth. Nothing major just wanted to see if I could at each level if flow and so far the UV has had no impact on the ability to cause the minor outbreak or speed up the removal of it. Both major types of dinos are alive and well in my system but still controllable through my normal routines.
I'm currently spurring it on and testing 400-500gph flow through the UV.
I took this picture a couple nights ago. Bottom left you can see a small amount of cyano. Like I said just pushing it enough to spur on a tiny amount.
karimwassef
Active member
what a weird affliction this is - a disease of the ultra-clean.
Heuristic
New member
Thanks for your input :spin3:
jason2459
Well-known member
FWIW, the UV has done nothing to the cyano, dino's, or ORP in my system in the 400-500gph range with a 56watt AquaUV unit.
Going to take it offline and see what pushing a lot of O3 through my system will do. Currently I have a small red sea ozone generator and can only go up to 50mg/hr and I run at minimum of that. So, I have a new generator coming in that can push 200mg/hr through my skimmer which has a flow rate of about 390-400gph and an air pull of about 30scfh.
Going to take it offline and see what pushing a lot of O3 through my system will do. Currently I have a small red sea ozone generator and can only go up to 50mg/hr and I run at minimum of that. So, I have a new generator coming in that can push 200mg/hr through my skimmer which has a flow rate of about 390-400gph and an air pull of about 30scfh.
drummerboyevil
New member
I don't usually post here, but I wanted to post my recent success vs. Dinos. I'm just going to copy past from my thread on another forum. I am on day two of UV treatment and they are basically GONE. Details below:
My Dino's came back after I started doing water changes again (20% weekly). This was about a month ago.
I took a relatively hands off approach by just dosing some phosphates to keep them around 0.1ppm and continuing to feed heavy to maintain my 5ppm nitrates. The Dino's got worse and worse over the month to the point of starting to **** off my limited zoas/palys as well as reduce polyp extension in SPS.
My type of Dino's seems to go into the water column at night for the most part, so I decided to try something that I haven't tried in the 1+ years that I've been dealing with this garbage in 3 tanks now... a UV sterilizer. I bought a 55 watt jebao pond sterilizer on amazon for $70ish dollars. It arrived yesterday and I hooked it up in the afternoon. I plumbed it directly to the display with a 300 gph quietone pump set to its lowest setting. I have not measured the exact output but it's quite slow. I'm running the UV 24/7 for now.
95% of the Dino's were gone this morning. Nothing but the white death webs were left.
During my lights on today there was NO noticeable growth in the few tiny areas of Dino's that I can barely find. So far this has been a HUGE success for me and this was the only change I have made... other than blasting the tank with a turkey baster a few hours after lights out to get as much in the water column as possible. Seems like a heck of a coincidence if it wasn't the UV.
My sunny Ds are open for the first time in over a week and I have noticeably more polyp extension in my SPS.
I will continue to update this thread with my findings, but if you have Dino's that seem to dissipate during lights out I HIGHLY recommend giving this a try.
My Dino's came back after I started doing water changes again (20% weekly). This was about a month ago.
I took a relatively hands off approach by just dosing some phosphates to keep them around 0.1ppm and continuing to feed heavy to maintain my 5ppm nitrates. The Dino's got worse and worse over the month to the point of starting to **** off my limited zoas/palys as well as reduce polyp extension in SPS.
My type of Dino's seems to go into the water column at night for the most part, so I decided to try something that I haven't tried in the 1+ years that I've been dealing with this garbage in 3 tanks now... a UV sterilizer. I bought a 55 watt jebao pond sterilizer on amazon for $70ish dollars. It arrived yesterday and I hooked it up in the afternoon. I plumbed it directly to the display with a 300 gph quietone pump set to its lowest setting. I have not measured the exact output but it's quite slow. I'm running the UV 24/7 for now.
95% of the Dino's were gone this morning. Nothing but the white death webs were left.
During my lights on today there was NO noticeable growth in the few tiny areas of Dino's that I can barely find. So far this has been a HUGE success for me and this was the only change I have made... other than blasting the tank with a turkey baster a few hours after lights out to get as much in the water column as possible. Seems like a heck of a coincidence if it wasn't the UV.
My sunny Ds are open for the first time in over a week and I have noticeably more polyp extension in my SPS.
I will continue to update this thread with my findings, but if you have Dino's that seem to dissipate during lights out I HIGHLY recommend giving this a try.
drummerboyevil
New member
Have you tried 100-150 gph? This is what I am at with my 55w jebao UV plumbed directly to the display and my dinos were 95% gone overnight. They are a type of dino that goes into the water column at night. I've read that extremely slow is the key to killing larger stuff like dinos and the difference was night and day overnight.
drummerboyevil
New member
I checked today and I'm running roughly 180gph
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jason2459
Well-known member
I have not ran it that slow. According to AquaUV it's supposed to be ran well over 1000gph so I figured 400-500gph should be very slow for it. But I can come back to it and see.
I would imagine the way yours is setup is much better with it pulling directly from the display. Mine is in my basement sump.
I would imagine the way yours is setup is much better with it pulling directly from the display. Mine is in my basement sump.
