DIY LED Array build

[james3370]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15356478#post15356478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bluetang_2000
do you happen to know the final cost to build this? just curious whether it's more economical than MH or T5.

just by "what if-ing" several different possible tank designs i've thought about doing, i can tell you it will be quite a bit more expensive on the front-end no matter what size tank you do

....but the payoff is no heat added to the tank, on-the-fly color & intensity changes to the look of the tank (assuming you do dimmable), lower electricity requirements & the fact that you don't have to change bulbs every 9 months-year

 

[sphil876p]

Thanks guys for the response on the ac-dc converters, that will make my life easier and reduce some of the wiring that I put myself through on this build.....

I am assembeling a list, trying to remember all pricing and components......will post asap....

James is right this is much more exp. up front this fixture was approx 300-400 dollar range memory serving. I will still do a tally as you have me curious anyway. I am hoping that 5 years just with no MH bulb changes will pay for this unit....... only duration of components will decide $ over time :eek1:

 

[sphil876p]

Ok, here goes: Pricing is approx some include shipping some do not......
Meanwell power supplies 2pcs shipped 92$
http://www.powergatellc.com/pricing/meanwell/e.htm
Heatsink shipped 32$
http://www.heatsinkusa.com/asfdas.html
Fastening hardware 4-40 screws and plastic washers shipped 18$
www.mscdirect.com
Cree royal blue LEDs 10pcs 60$
http://www.etgtech.com/
Cree white LEDs 18pcs shipped 98$
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394
Soldering station 42$
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1247611123&sr=8-2
Cree optics 40deg and 60deg 28pcs 28$
http://www.etgtech.com/
Dimming pots 2pcs 40$
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm
ac-dc converters acrylic and tooling/drills I had on hand
12V fan and thermal transfer paste 2pcs 28$ local store
http://www.compusa.com/
Wire, solder, various fuses holders etc 20$
I am sure there are some parts I have forgotten

Approx 458$ barring any forgotten items..............

:eek2:

Note: in the future I will not be drilling and fastening the LEDs the same way as this fixture. Someone on the main LED thread was nice enough to provide this link.. http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-stars-12-p-457.php

This thing better last 5 years or my wife might put an end to my favorite hobby..........

 

[JoshuaG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15359058#post15359058 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sphil876p

Note: in the future I will not be drilling and fastening the LEDs the same way as this fixture. Someone on the main LED thread was nice enough to provide this link.. http://www.luxeonstar.com/precut-thermal-adhesive-tape-for-luxeon-stars-12-p-457.php

This thing better last 5 years or my wife might put an end to my favorite hobby..........

I wish I had seen those before I drilled all mine, would have used them in a heartbeat!!

 

[sphil876p]

Wow that was scary... :eek1:
Was wondering if all of this info might be gone when we got back, but all seems well.
Hey guys any feedback on the parts breakdown list and links/ budget for the array? Also digging through my scrap ac-dc power supply box contemplating a small spotlight type fixture.

 

[shikhyung]

So the saving is right up front.. The next 5 years you will replace the new LEDs which cost you $148, may be cheaper by that time vs. 5 MH bulbs somewhat $250. Plus the electric you save .8 A (2x 400mA) vs. 2A.

 

[JoshuaG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15350405#post15350405 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sphil876p
Had a request for meter settings and lead hookups for testing and setting the driver for amperage.........

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/40220688@N05/3717380250/" title="PICT0364 by sphil876, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3477/3717380250_522124970e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="PICT0364" /></a>

See the settings on my meter, also where you plug the leads in on the meter is important careful not to blow the fuses in your meter......
Positive lead (red) to positive out from driver....
Negative lead (black) to positive wire to the LED string....
Basically you will use your meter as a bridge to complete the positive circuit......
HTH

Thanks for posting this, I was able to get all my drivers set at .95

Now if Digital Aquatics would hurry up and make the ALC compatible with their RKL, I will have full dimming control!

 

[sphil876p]

Update: New Project

All metal Clip Light from Super Target 10$

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/40220688@N05/3729863066/" title="PICT0439 by sphil876, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2524/3729863066_8313c5c3e6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="PICT0439" /></a>

Used power supply and aluminum CPU heatsink from local computer repair store junk bins 12$

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/40220688@N05/3729863448/" title="PICT0441 by sphil876, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3478/3729863448_c2ebbd7b02.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="PICT0441" /></a>

Buckpuck w/wires and attached dimming pot from Led supply 26$

Cool new LED project to work on PRICELESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

HEY! That's my idea! :lol: Slow down!

 

[sphil876p]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15368599#post15368599 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
HEY! That's my idea! :lol: Slow down!

Didn't mean to swipe your idea, but they say great minds think alike I have the concept all worked out in my head, but the splash shield might be a little tricky. I think I am going to trace the outline of the lamp shade on a piece of acrylic and then grind the shape on my bench grinder. Six leds 5 white and 1 blue..... I think 2 blues will make the light too blue for my taste. I want this to be a quick portable fuge/live rock tub type light so I think the more white the color the better.

Also guys try those local computer repair shops for these parts, we have many of these type stores in our area and the first one I walked into had all of the used parts laying around I needed. I purchased the power supply, and two aluminum sinks for
12$

I would also recommend taking your multimeter into the store with you and checking the supply before you buy it. Some of these go bad, and you need to check at least for proper voltage before you put down your cash :bum:

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

My nano build is basically going to be three of the same thing you're building. Two will have 6 cool white rebels and 2 royal blue XR-Es, and the third will have 6 blue rebels and 2 royal blue XR-Es.

I'm split about what to use for an enclosure - on one hand, I may go with a lamp similar to what you're using, though I found some at Home Depot that have a stainless steel housing with vents cut in the top. Or, I may go with par 38 cans, as used in stage lighting - a more industrial look.

I've got sinks and fans, LEDs, and parts to build drivers. It'll probably be a while before I have the time to put it all together, so you may beat me. But I see a huge potential for this sort of "spotlight" LED module. Total flexibility in terms of expanding the system, plus you can rearrange lighting quickly if you re-do your rockwork. Plus, it'll be easy to get really dramatic lighting, since you can position the lights to shine from an angle, etc.

I'm going to use really thin acrylic for the splash shield (like 1/10" or 1/16" - I have some of both already) so I'll just cut with a razor knife. If I go with the clip lights, I'll bend tabs and use screws to secure the shield. If I go with the stage lights, I can just put the shield in the gel frame.

 

[sphil876p]

I am interested in the possibility that this small fixture with optics could be capable of being mounted further away from the aquarium, and focused on a single coral colony or rock etc.....
Having seen what others have done with grouping LEDs together in their fixture I believe this will give me a small portable package to experiment with......

Man I really enjoy the versatility that these lights bring to my system

This fixture has many vent holes at the top do you think that I should still try to incorporate a small fan into the fixture, or will the CPU sink pull enough heat to vent to atmosphere

 

[stugray]

sphil876p,

After reading (most) of the whole thread, I am not sure you needed to spend so much on the "dimming pots":

"Dimming pots 2pcs 40$
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm"

If I understand this application correctly, you only needed ~$2 worth of parts to accomplish this.

The parts you chose will certainly work, but can supply 10 Watts of power at the adjusted voltage.
The voltage input to the Pucks does not require anywhere NEAR that power.
A simple POT from RS would work.

( Unless I am way missing something )

Can you provide the spec sheet for the exact driver you chose, the link you have doesnt work.


Stu

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Stu, you are correct - a cheap, small-capacity pot would have worked fine, since the current on the dim circuit is really low. It's not actually given for the mean well drivers, but for every other driver I've seen with similar dimming capacity, it's like a few mA.

 

[sphil876p]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15370582#post15370582 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by der_wille_zur_macht
Stu, you are correct - a cheap, small-capacity pot would have worked fine, since the current on the dim circuit is really low. It's not actually given for the mean well drivers, but for every other driver I've seen with similar dimming capacity, it's like a few mA.

I used the premade pots, because I have never built one from components, and have not seen any instructions/parts lists for these.....
Are you saying that a complete unit is available from radio shack?
Here is a link to the PDF. http://www.powergatellc.com/pdfs/ELN-60.pdf
I am using the ELN 60 48D
I would be stoked if you guys could give me the info on the pots...

 

[JoshuaG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15372171#post15372171 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sphil876p
I used the premade pots, because I have never built one from components, and have not seen any instructions/parts lists for these.....
Are you saying that a complete unit is available from radio shack?
Here is a link to the PDF. http://www.powergatellc.com/pdfs/ELN-60.pdf
I am using the ELN 60 48D
I would be stoked if you guys could give me the info on the pots...

This is what I was told would work via Evil over on NR. I bought a few, haven't tried them out yet though.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062355

 

[sphil876p]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15372386#post15372386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JoshuaG
This is what I was told would work via Evil over on NR. I bought a few, haven't tried them out yet though.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062355

How many connections are on this pot, and how is it wired up?

 

[stugray]

JoshuaG,

Yes that is exactly what I had in mind.

sphil876p,

"How many connections are on this pot, and how is it wired up?"

There are three connections on a typical POT:

1 - High ( voltage input )
2 - Adjust ( usually called the wiper ) - this is the voltage value that you can adjust
3 - Ground or return.

Basically a POT is just an adjustable resistor.
This one is 50 KOhms between the High & The return.
The wiper is an adjustable contact that moves up & down the 50 KOhm fixed resistor.

It is really just an adjustable voltage divider circuit.

Stu

 

[sphil876p]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15373631#post15373631 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stugray
JoshuaG,

Yes that is exactly what I had in mind.

sphil876p,

"How many connections are on this pot, and how is it wired up?"

There are three connections on a typical POT:

1 - High ( voltage input )
2 - Adjust ( usually called the wiper ) - this is the voltage value that you can adjust
3 - Ground or return.

Basically a POT is just an adjustable resistor.
This one is 50 KOhms between the High & The return.
The wiper is an adjustable contact that moves up & down the 50 KOhm fixed resistor.

It is really just an adjustable voltage divider circuit.

Stu

Ok, so these have the same connections as the pots I used.
Cool, you guys just helped me make my large project a little more cost effective $$$$

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

sphil, the "pot" you used isn't a pot - it's a pot attached to a pretty compact, switching voltage regulator. It's basically a DC-DC power supply.

Pots can be wired to act like voltage regulators, but they basically work by burning off the extra power as heat. In high power (i.e. over a watt or so) applications, this is a problem, since the heat will be great enough to kill most pots (this is why pots are rated with a max. power). The device you bought is a more complicated circuit, and more efficient at controlling voltage for high power circuits. For convenience, the people who built the device you are using configured and labeled the pinout the same as the pins on a conventional pot. Hence, it's basically a "black box" that you can use like you'd use any old pot, more or less.

It would be interesting to measure the current in the "dim" circuit on your driver, since mean well doesn't publish the spec. However, all the other drivers I've seen that have similar dimming circuits are only putting a few mA through, so a plain old pot works fine.

There's nothing wrong with what you did of course, it's just way overkill - like using a 2 x 8 lumber frame to hold up a 5 gallon nano tank!