DIY LED driver for reef lighting

I hope this isn't de-railing the thread, but I'm thinking about building up a controller using a couple of TI evaluation modules (see: http://focus.ti.com/docs/toolsw/folders/print/ucc28810evm-003.html). Not exactly DIY, but not exactly off the shelf, either. I'm putting together an array of 96 LEDs on a 8"x72" heatsink and, with this controller, would probably run 8 strings of 12 LEDs.

Any thoughts about this controller as compared to other options would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil
 
perikaruppan; Sorry. I haven't messed with those CATs enough to tell you why or what's happening. All I can imagine is that you don't have things balanced well enough.

Those are supposed to act as current sources and so whatever you set one to it supplies UP TO that and no more. So theoretically you could have one set to 500mA and another at 600mA and the result would be 1100mA - but possibly not with them! I just don't know.

It could also be some shortcoming of your layout causing it. I could knock myself out trying to understand the chips when it has nothing to do with them.
 
pwest said:
I hope this isn't de-railing the thread, but I'm thinking about building up a controller using a couple of TI evaluation modules (see: http://focus.ti.com/docs/toolsw/folders/print/ucc28810evm-003.html). Not exactly DIY, but not exactly off the shelf, either. I'm putting together an array of 96 LEDs on a 8"x72" heatsink and, with this controller, would probably run 8 strings of 12 LEDs.

Any thoughts about this controller as compared to other options would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil
Click to expand...


Yeah.. Just buy a HLG185... It comes safety approved. Fully specified and enclosed. Nothing much lethal about it. That TI thing is a huge mouthful. Not worth the hassle.
 
kcress said:
Yeah.. Just buy a HLG185... It comes safety approved. Fully specified and enclosed. Nothing much lethal about it. That TI thing is a huge mouthful. Not worth the hassle.
Click to expand...

Aren't the HLG185's single output? Having 4 independent channels is a nice feature.
 
True but not really that useful. Presumably you're not making a light-show system, you're trying to light some creatures homes.

Here's what you'll end up doing. You'll turn on the system and mess with all the different channels for a while. Then you'll end up setting them at some point and leaving them that way for the next two years. You'll leave them all set to two different positions. The blue at one setting the white at other.

Four ELN60s will allow four channels of 24 LEDs. Each of these four would be independently adjustable. You could have them (safely) running in a week.

If you proceed with in the TI direction you need to be a skilled electronics person because that design is the very deepest part of the pool. A shark infested pool. Sharks with 400V teeth.
 
kcress said:
True but not really that useful. Presumably you're not making a light-show system, you're trying to light some creatures homes.


Here's what you'll end up doing. You'll turn on the system and mess with all the different channels for a while. Then you'll end up setting them at some point and leaving them that way for the next two years. You'll leave them all set to two different positions. The blue at one setting the white at other.
Click to expand...

I agree with that--I don't think it's likely that I'll want independent control of all 8 strings.

Four ELN60s will allow four channels of 24 LEDs. Each of these four would be independently adjustable. You could have them (safely) running in a week.
Click to expand...

Agree: straightforward, safe, low risk/effort.

If you proceed with in the TI direction you need to be a skilled electronics person because that design is the very deepest part of the pool. A shark infested pool. Sharks with 400V teeth.
Click to expand...

I am an electrical engineer, but I've got no desire to re-invent the wheel. It might be fun to play around w/the TI, but I could probably better use my time on other parts of the project--you've got me leaning back toward the Mean Well's.
 
I'm an EE too and wouldn't bother with that much headache.

If you wanted to do some DIY we could seriously use the next better thing than the CATs being used. We need a buck-boost driver that runs off of 24VDC supplies, (which are a huge bang for the buck and deal with all the high voltage hassles).
 
If anyone is thinking of ordering parts from Mouser for the 3 CAT board find the 768 resistor somewhere else. I just got notice that they expect them October 4th.
 
So is there a site that has the CAT4101 Driver Boards for sale already that we can order from or do I need to make the gerber files to submit and order some?
 
Hey guys, quick question. I DIY'ed my own drivers using a solderable prototype board cause I couldn't for the life of me figure eagle out. I'm skilled with the iron, so I made it work :). Anyways, my drivers all work fine, holy crap those lights are bright! My only struggle is with 5V power. Anyone have any simple solutions for using the 24v supplies to modulate 5v for the CAT's? I'm using a one-step linear regulator right now (TL760L series), and it's getting, shal we say hot ;). Even with a small heatsink on top of it, it's topping out at 80C. I guess the CAT's are drawing a little more current than I thought, and the regulators are probably drawing a few watts each.

So, any ideas for simple 5V regulation that can handle the load of 6 CAT's from a 24v supply? Or perhaps if I just drop from 24-12 first and then supply my 5v regulator down from there? I have some decent room left on my proto board, so let me know if you guys have any quick tricks up your sleeves. Thanks :)
 
hey guys I'm about to order the resistors. Mouser don't have these(660-RK73H2BTTD7680F) in stock they cross match these instead 660-RK73H2BLTD7680F. I'm pretty sure that these will work, I just want to be sure.
 
That sound expensive. You might try a 7805 with a heat sink that is what I used. The other thing you could do is 7818 -> 7812 -> 7809 -> 7805. I think those are the right numbers they are about $0.50 each from future electronics.

I think the only difference on the resistors is the packaging.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
That sound expensive. You might try a 7805 with a heat sink that is what I used. The other thing you could do is 7818 -> 7812 -> 7809 -> 7805. I think those are the right numbers they are about $0.50 each from future electronics.

I think the only difference on the resistors is the packaging.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking I might just slap a 7812 in between what I've currently got to spread the heat out, get the voltage down to 12 and then let the little guy I have in there finish the job to 5v
 
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