DIY LED driver for reef lighting

I read the entire thread last night and I am thinking about building a couple drivers for a LED rig.

I think the dual driver 4101 circuit looks like it would be the best for me with the through-hole components. Is there a build sheet for the components? Also, if I only needed to use one driver side, could I build it up complete with both drivers and only use one side, or do both sides need to be used if installed?
 
I read the entire thread last night and I am thinking about building a couple drivers for a LED rig.

I think the dual driver 4101 circuit looks like it would be the best for me with the through-hole components. Is there a build sheet for the components? Also, if I only needed to use one driver side, could I build it up complete with both drivers and only use one side, or do both sides need to be used if installed?
I would like some more info about this as well. Specifically:

1. I would like to order dual driver Cat4101 boards from Seeed Studio. What format does the board file need to be in and where on their website do I go about ordering boards from?

2. Is using through hole parts on this acceptable? What are the downsides?

3. Is there a published BOM for the 4101 dual driver, and where is the best place to order all the parts from?
 
I would like some more info about this as well. Specifically:

1. I would like to order dual driver Cat4101 boards from Seeed Studio. What format does the board file need to be in and where on their website do I go about ordering boards from?

2. Is using through hole parts on this acceptable? What are the downsides?

3. Is there a published BOM for the 4101 dual driver, and where is the best place to order all the parts from?

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-2-layer-5cm5cm-max-10pcs-p-513.html?cPath=64_12

The cat4101 boards are surface mount

and the BOM for the 4101 http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16794383&postcount=607 also found here http://code.google.com/p/hpled/downloads/list
 
There is a link back around page 13-15 for the link to BOM files for this and several other "DER" projects. They are located on a Google site of some sort I am on my BB so can't get to the actual link.

Yes you can use it running just one side of the driver. They independent of each other. Simply do not suppy power to the driver you do not want to use.

I believe the files are Gerber or Eagle files. They can be sent as is to Seeedstudios.

PM me before you order, the minimum order is 10 boards and I have quite a few left over from my build.

I used mouser and digikey to everything that I needed.
 
Last time I checked (last week or so). Future was considerably cheaper for the CAT4101 (~$1.55) compared to mouser and digikey (~$3.++).

[EDIT]
Still is $1.54 vs $3.46
 
There is a link back around page 13-15 for the link to BOM files for this and several other "DER" projects. They are located on a Google site of some sort I am on my BB so can't get to the actual link.
help me out here, I am looking here, http://code.google.com/p/hpled/updates/list , and see no info on the dual-4101 board. The last post on there is before the date that der posted the dual-4101 board.

Yes you can use it running just one side of the driver. They independent of each other. Simply do not suppy power to the driver you do not want to use.
how do you not supply power to one driver when there is only one power input that goes to both drivers. the only way I could see not sending it power would be to not solder the driver to the board. I see the 5v power connector goes to both drivers. Or, is it the 24v feed that does not go to the driver until after it has come from the LEDs that is the the power that you are talking about?


PM me before you order, the minimum order is 10 boards and I have quite a few left over from my build.
If you have some of these, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16998805&postcount=759 , I definitely would like to buy some of your left overs.
 
FYI, you can use dwizum's 3 up driver board design for just one or two drivers, just don't populate one or two of the sections. I have a bunch of those boards working where I only use 2 of the 3 drivers on a board because I want to dim 12 LEDs at a time.
 
I'm aware of that, I just don't want to have to deal with surface mount components when there is a through-hole version of the driver.
 
Ok, home from work.

The dual driver that I went with is the NCP3066 board not the Cat board. Sorry.

Here is a picture of the driver board, note the inputs for the power supply and LED array(s):

ldriver.jpg


Unpopulated:

LB1.jpg


If you want to use just on sive of the driver running 12 LEDS, the supply power only to L1 or L2 connections.
 
Hi all,

I've been running the 3066 drivers for a couple months now and they have been working very well with just one niggling issue that I haven't been able to solve....I'm getting a very annoying flashing as I dim them. I've also found I can only dim for part of the pwm range and then my power supplies go stupid and things get very hot and, because the drivers are in boost topology, I can't dim them very much anyway. My moonlights are quite bright..too bright.

So deciding to do a switch to the CAT4101. If anyone has spares of the 3 driver boards, I am looking to get 7 of them. Please PM me if you have some spares you are willing to part with.

Thanks
Don
 
I'm aware of that, I just don't want to have to deal with surface mount components when there is a through-hole version of the driver.

SMD is a little trickier, but IMO doesn't need to be the deciding factor. You do need a fine point tip for your soldering iron, thin diameter solder, and tweezers. After you are done, I found I needed to look at the connections with a magnifying glass to make sure they were OK.
 
2) Get the gerber requirements from the vendor, or even better, get an EAGLE CAM file from them. The CAM file will have settings for EAGLE to generate gerbers in the format that vendor wants.

For Seeed, their EAGLE requirements are here on the prototyping product page:

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-2-layer-5cm5cm-max-10pcs-p-513.html?cPath=64_12

I see the DRC link there but I don't see a CAM file linked there which is weird because they used to have one. I just put the one I used up on the google site so you can get it there.

So, you need to get that CAM file, put it in your "cam" folder (something like /program files\eagle\cam\) then open the EAGLE project, hit the CAM editor (looks like two blue filmstrips), then hit file>open and open the CAM file, then hit process job. It'll write a bunch of files to the project directory, so you can then go there and zip them up.[/QUOTE]


Hi Willi,

Ok , I got the cam file from them. I opened the project, hit the cam editor, opened the cam file and when I hit the process job I get error messages about "no layers active". If I just click OK on the messages I get files in the output folder but they are all 1K in size and the .txt file seeed needs isn't there. I tried selecting all the layers that show up on the right hand side but had the same result. When I opened the project I did get a message that it was created with an earlier version so perhaps this is what's causing the results. The version I have is 5.9.0.
Any chance you could create the gerbers for the 3 driver board and post the zip?

Thanks
Don
 
CAT4101 and Heat

CAT4101 and Heat

I thought someone posted that their CAT4101 did not get hot. I seem to run about 150 degrees Fahrenheit. I realize that is in spec, but if it burns me when I touch it I would prefer to have it cooler - accidents happen.

I admit that I did not leave the full copper they recommended, but I planned to turn down my power supply so that it would not have as much energy to loose. I thought that balance out the lack of copper.

I placed an extra piece of heat sink on the CAT4101 and held it there (no paste) and it drops to below 100 so I can make it work. I am just wondering if any has a better solution.

[EDIT]
700 ma with 1 - 2 volt over
 
regarding the 4101 multi driver boards, is there a long term issue with having drivers not being hooked up to an LED strings, but having the 5v and PWM inputs powered. If it is, then it sounds like it would be better to not solder in the actual 4101 until it is needed.
 
5/24 Volt Unconnected on the CAT4101

5/24 Volt Unconnected on the CAT4101

I wanted to know what happens if the 24 volts is connected on the CAT4101. I had done it several times for maybe a couple hours, but better safe than sorry:
I have a question on the CAT4101. I realize it can be run with the LEDs unconnected. But I am wondering about 24 volts. Can I supply 5 to the CAT4101's supply and the PWM (100% on), but leave the 24V disconnected? I run them to simulate daylight. I can not turn of the 5 volt, but would like to shut off the 24 volt supply to save electricity when the light are not actually on.

Thanks
Peter Gergely:let me check
Peter Gergely:sure this device can operate at 5V when LEDs or 24V is disconnected.
Which of course leads to the 5 volt line and what happens if we loose that:
Robert: I have a question on the CAT4101. What happens if you loose the 5 volts? Either with or with out the PWM being driven. 24 volts still connected.
Marian Lettrich:Let me check it please
Marian Lettrich:LEDs will be off
Robert: OK, but will it damage the CAT4101?
Marian Lettrich:I believe that no damage can occur if all other voltages vill be in limits
Robert: Any way you can verify that?
Marian Lettrich: Screen Cleared.
Marian Lettrich:When this volatge falls below 2 Volts, current sink is disabled, no damage to the part
I highly suggest that if you loose any connection turn everything off and reconnect THEN turn the power back on.
 
As I mentioned earlier I was having some heat problems. The CATs got to 140 F after 15 minutes and my 7805 got to 120. So I added some heat sink material.
picture.php

After adding the heat sink and running for 20 minutes the 7805 and CATs were only 100 F. What are other people using the CAT4101 finding that their temperatures are running?
 
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