DIY LED driver for reef lighting

I really don't like to disturb your LM3409 discussion - looks really great - but I think I've got it silent now ;-)

Moved PWM from D5/D6 to D9/D10 and decreased PWM frequency down to 122Hz. I had to move it to ports not contolled by timer0 because a modification at timer0 also affects the delay functions.

greetings,
Ingo

Ah. That was an end-run on a noise solution. Change the applied frequency so the parts aren't near their resonances. Good solution.

terahz; I'd sure add a pot. Anything to increase functionality on a hobby board.

We should probably include a warning about soldering degree of difficulty being 9.5 on a scale of 10 where 10 is impossible.
 
Hi all,
I just sent pm to DWZM but you guys may be able to help me out. Does anyone has a 2 or 3 spare CAT1401 (triple) boards that I can buy. I just don't want to send a order or 10 or so boards to seeedstudio.

Also FishMan: do you by any chance have a spare board for 8channel driverboard-just asking. This looks cool as I just ordered 24V, 10A powersupply and I can run as much as 8 strings without worry.

Thanks guys for helping me out
MiReef
 
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Guys,

I've been looking into the analog dimming technology. I found a few sites that claim that analog dimming will cause inefficiency and also change the color spectrum of the LEDs . Have you all heard of these issues?

http://www.cnc-lighting.com/i-Knowledge-363029/LED-Dimming-Control-366792.html

http://www.aimtec.com/site/Aimtec/files/documents/ApplicationNotes/pwm%20vs%20analog%20dimming%20of%20leds.pdf


I did some research into this LED Fixture, the VERTEX Illumnina.

http://www.vertexaquaristik.com/Products/Lighting/LED/Illumina/IlluminaSR200.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHo7LTgkbZ4


I found that they us the LT3475 with 4 LEDs per driver.
http://www.linear.com/product/LT3475



Is this chip design "20 Pin TSSOP" hard to work with?

Thanks
-Phillip
 
analog dimming will cause inefficiency

Depends on HOW the analog dimming is implemented. If you're using a passive circuit and just burning off the extra power, then sure, it's much less efficient. If you're using a reg with some sort of active feedback and the analog dimming signal merely alters that feedback, then it probably isn't much different.


and also change the color spectrum of the LEDs

This is true, but IMHO not an issue in our situation, given that we are typically tweaking to get a specific color ratio and/or controlling multiple channels of different colors independently (i.e. whites and blues) - there WILL be a color shift, but we probably either won't notice it, or will just naturally tune it out.

I would be willing to guess that the resources you found pointing out the advantages of PWM dimming over analog dimming originated from a manufacturer who had just released a new PWM chip. :D
 
Need some assistance guys if you could. I built my system with everyones help here (used Fishman's boards) and all has been generally up and running and fine. I finally moved my fixture last night from it's temporary home over two tanks in the garage and hung it in the house over the 180. Went to plug everything back in and nothing now. None of the CAT's, regulators, etc are warm. Tested and the drivers are getting voltage and PWM OK. The only thing I know I did wrong was switch the positive and negative coming out of the power supply initially (wasn't paying attention when I was hooking them back in). Not sure if doing this would possibly have fried the CAT's. I have not had any time to trace for any possibly grounds or shorts in the wires yet but even if there was I would think I would get light from one of my five panels. Any thoughts, help, etc would be greatly appreciated because I sold my old fixture and need to get this fixed ASAP as I am leaving for a few days as well. Thanks in advance.
 
There are worse.. The one terahz is using would be a 9.5 out of 10 part. Whereas I'd rate that TSSOP as about a 7. A thru-hole resistor a 1.

It's sort of weird, because I've been soldering things for 3 decades now (I built my first computer from components, a Sinclair ZX81...) but I find it *easier* now to do SMT than to do through-hole components. With the amount of solder I end up using on through-hole parts, I find it's more common to get mistakes. Perhaps it's just me or perhaps it's that I mix through-hole with SMT and never seem to leave sufficient separation between the two :)

A 0.8mm pitch chip is pretty trivial - liberally flux the pads, place one corner, place opposite corner, do the rest of the pins. To solder a pin, add a small solder-ball to iron tip, touch tip of iron to tip of the pin and the solder will wick onto the pin. Repeat. If you position the board to suit your soldering angle, a 48-pin chip is done in ~2 mins. I actually do them like this rather than use the soldering oven these days, although I'll use the oven for things like BGA [grin].

For smaller than 0.8mm I do tend to use the wicking method, but I've had the wick stick to the pins before, and then you can lose a pin trying to remove the wick.

Simple SMT resistors/capacitors are equally easy: flux the pads then tin one of the pad with solder, use tweezers to place the part on top of the tinned pad, touch the iron to the tinned area and gently push down with the tweezers, remove iron and wait a second or so. Then just add a blob of solder to the iron again and touch the other side of the component. Done.

I will mention the thing that makes this really, really easy - even though it will completely destroy any possibility of social interaction I may ever have with any of you :) Get one of these. Possibly the dorkiest pieces of apparel ever invented, but it really helps. The visor attaches comfortably with a screw-type headband, and flips up/down easily for when you want it in/out-of your way. It's a fixed magnification (2.5x) , so you do have to position your head rather than zoom in (those visors are far more expensive...) but we have these things called 'muscles' that allow us to move our 'skeleton' into the correct position :)

The downside of the fixed magnification is that it can get uncomfortable if you're using it for long periods (a few hours) but these sorts of projects are nowhere near that sort of soldering time. I did run into this when making an entire suite of sensors for my own ethernet-based controller. YMMV.

If you're doing fine-line soldering, I'd also recommend getting some of Sparkfun's "special blend"" - I was skeptical but it really does seem to be easier to use than the normal stuff.

Ok, enough with the public-service announcements. No, I don't own stock in, or have any interest in either of the above companies (or anyone else remotely connected to them), these are just items I've found useful.:)

Simon.
 
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Well, I screw my lamp, I was playing with a wire from the fan and sudently just 2/3s of my lamp stop working.

I have 4 boards with 3 CATs each, on 2 board I see there is a short between GND and 5V, the other 2 boards only turn on a string :(

Will do some troubleshooting tonight, anyone had that problem before? (5V and GND in short)

thks
 
LM3409.v0.2.png





So terahz, have you fired one of these up yet?
 
FWIW, at a user's request via PM, I did another version of the CAT4101 triple board with the PWM signals separated out for each chip. If there is any more interest in this let me know and I will post the files.
 
As above, I'm interested in the layouts being made public. I have cheated though and drilled 2 extra holes for a 6-way connector instead of the 4 and cut tracks to have 3 independent PWM signals :)
 
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