DIY LEDs - The write-up - (split again)
- Thread starter TheFishMan65
- Start date
dirland
Member
Hoping someone can help me with this.....
I am setting up apex with dimmable drivers, put the first driver on the v2 port and it is working fine. when the v2 port is turned off shows 0 volts when tested with probe.
I was going to hook up the next driver and noticed, even with the v4 port off and driver not plugged in, it is showing almost 14 volts coming from v4 port? why?
Tried v1 port and v3 port it was the same reading, the only one that seems to be turning off is the v2 port. Am I doing something wrong?
Another dumb question, do you need resistors if you are only doing one string or is it specifically for measuring two strings on one driver. I am pretty sure they answer is no resistor just want to make sure!
Thanks
I am setting up apex with dimmable drivers, put the first driver on the v2 port and it is working fine. when the v2 port is turned off shows 0 volts when tested with probe.
I was going to hook up the next driver and noticed, even with the v4 port off and driver not plugged in, it is showing almost 14 volts coming from v4 port? why?
Tried v1 port and v3 port it was the same reading, the only one that seems to be turning off is the v2 port. Am I doing something wrong?
Another dumb question, do you need resistors if you are only doing one string or is it specifically for measuring two strings on one driver. I am pretty sure they answer is no resistor just want to make sure!
Thanks
TheFishMan65
New member
dirland,
I would add the resistor (it is cheap) several times I have wanted to measure the current and have been too lazy to turn off the driver, disconnect wires, and meter and turn it on. Then repeat to remove the wire. If you ever want to double check the resistor is worth it IMHO.
Sorry can't help with the Apex.
I would add the resistor (it is cheap) several times I have wanted to measure the current and have been too lazy to turn off the driver, disconnect wires, and meter and turn it on. Then repeat to remove the wire. If you ever want to double check the resistor is worth it IMHO.
Sorry can't help with the Apex.
T Diddy
Happy to be here
guys, is there an optimum voltage and or current for the MW 60-48P? I don't plan on running a parallel set up. One MW will drive 12 XPGs and one will drive XPEs. There certainly is a max current for the individual LEDs, but I was wondering about overall efficiency of the drivers.
Thanks,
T
Thanks,
T
TheFishMan65
New member
Doesn't matter IMHO. If the optimum is 1.3 amps you can't do it with the XP-E. you can with the XP-Gs, but if that makes the color wrong for you you need to turn them down. I would just run them where you like the color (of course without overdriving the LEDs).
T Diddy
Happy to be here
I guess I was more concerned with overall efficiency. Is there some point of diminishing return? The XPGs can handle the larger current, but does this have any negative affect on the driver? The XPEs require a lower current, which I would assume leads to longer life of the driver. My plan is to max out the drivers (with respect to LED requirements) for the XPG/E LEDs, and then control intensity independently from a remote source.
TheFishMan65
New member
I expect the harder you push the driver for current and voltage the better efficiency you will get (most power supplies seem that way), but they may not not last as long.
kcress will probably have a better answer.
kcress will probably have a better answer.
kcress
New member
Yep fully loaded is often most efficient. Of course it's all a cr@pshoot since the harder you drive the LEDs the LESS efficient they get. So somewhere you'd be crossing the line on the way back down as you max out the ELN. It doesn't matter in your case as you're only talking a few % anyway. Set it where you like it and you'll still be saving probably 30% over T8s and 50% over MH.
well I have been all over the last couple hours and am really close to pulling the trigger on a diy led setup from rapid led. I would order 3 dimmable kits of 24 leds for a 125g... here are the questions
1. is this equal to the lighting of the ai sol I asked about earlier. From what I can see I would think it would be the same.
2. I have no idea what to get for lighting. I currently have 1400k halides and an actinic and superblue t5... can anyone help with this? I have never seen an led system I didn't like the color to but I don't know what to get?
3. Can the system I have described support an sps level tank? I am not there yet but I am really heading in that direction.
1. is this equal to the lighting of the ai sol I asked about earlier. From what I can see I would think it would be the same.
2. I have no idea what to get for lighting. I currently have 1400k halides and an actinic and superblue t5... can anyone help with this? I have never seen an led system I didn't like the color to but I don't know what to get?
3. Can the system I have described support an sps level tank? I am not there yet but I am really heading in that direction.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Yes and I think 3 AI Sols would be found wanting over a 72" tank due to their dinky little footprint (flame away
)You are on the right track. I run 77 (which includes a few other colors) on a standard 4x2x2 120g. I believe your tank is 72x18? you probably want a few more than 72...probably around 80. handy formula used here is (LxW)/16 = # LEDs. The key is to get coverage. If you do this then you will have more than enough power to grow SPS. My tank is loaded with SPS
This depends on how high you want to hang your fixture and coverage of the tank but after having used a few different lens I have personally settled on 90 degree lenses for the best overall effect for me. most popular are 60-90 it seems.
Many of us have found that using 2 RB to 1 CW is a very good compromise when used in conjunction with dimming to get a wide range of color temp possibilities. I have personally found this key to growing SPS...too white a temp and too much power was bleaching my corals. back to a nice blue (which I prefer) and things are going great. I have found it more about covering the tank adequately and then color temp and dimming. I only mention all this because you want to keep SPS and thats my personal experience only.
Oh...and rapid will swap out the LEDs to the ratio you want...just ask them via email..they are very responsive.
So I am looking at using 3 separate heat sinks but what size should each one be? If they are only 5.3" deep like the ai then I think the lenses have to be specific.. Heatsink usa has deeper heat sinks that look relatively affordable so I could order deeper but what lenses would I get based on that?
Yes I am using a standard 125 gallon 6 foot tank.
Yes I am using a standard 125 gallon 6 foot tank.
So brassmonkyballs... If you had it to do over again would you still mix in other colors to go with the blue and white? Should I be looking to do that? Being I have never seen one of these in person I would love some recommendations... I know everyone has their own preference but I don't have a visual aid to go off... I am looking at getting 84 bulbs so if someone with experience in this could make an educated guess at extra colors and lenses that would be great.
I am looking at a 3 10x18 heatsinks does everyone think that will work or is that too big?
I am looking at a 3 10x18 heatsinks does everyone think that will work or is that too big?
TheFishMan65
New member
I would use wider heat sinks. Optics are really a matter of high you mount the fixture.
you really need to see some in person to pick a color. I recommend 1:2 Neutral white to royal blue as a starting place.
you really need to see some in person to pick a color. I recommend 1:2 Neutral white to royal blue as a starting place.
sorry I think the 1 to 2 is what everyone is saying at this point... but others are talking about reds or pinks should I be mixing these in? Do you know where someone talks about what lenses to use for how high off the water? I found the review on pg 171 but I haven't found that part yet...
Thanks I know you guys have answered everything I just haven't found it yet
Thanks I know you guys have answered everything I just haven't found it yet
TheFishMan65
New member
Yes, look at my home page there is a link to the LED summary which will answer many questions.
