DIY LEDs - The write-up
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trentdingo
New member
Will this be able to easily be integrated with the meanwell 48P drivers?
third one down: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...spPage&category=PCB&Page2Disp=/pt/Dimmer.html
third one down: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...spPage&category=PCB&Page2Disp=/pt/Dimmer.html
Hey I want to place my order with Anna at etgtech but I want to make sure I'm getting the best bang for my buck. I was going to order 24 XPG R5 cool whites and 24 XPE royal blues 28 60degree and 20 40degree optics in clear white. How does this sound? Also does anyone know off hand the bin for the colors on the royal blues. Also just an FYI if your in Ca you have to have a resale lic to order thru them. So I'm going to put 48 LEDs over my 144 half circle by oceanic on 6) 4 1/2" x 11 1/2 black anodized heatsinks. Thanks
TheFishMan65
New member
trentdingo,
Maybe I am missing something, but these all appear to be a replacement for the meanwells. The third one down (LDR 8A) puts out 8 amps so you could run 8 strings in parallel (with all the issue mentioned) and have manual dimming, But then it emtnions a PWM so maybe it does both or maybe it drives the LED with as a PWM signal (that is probably it). However it is only a 12 volt device so maybe you could get 4 LED if you used XP-G, but probably not snce there is probably some voltage loss.
I found another page on it and I am preety sure this directly drives the LED and is meanwell replacement.
Maybe I am missing something, but these all appear to be a replacement for the meanwells. The third one down (LDR 8A) puts out 8 amps so you could run 8 strings in parallel (with all the issue mentioned) and have manual dimming, But then it emtnions a PWM so maybe it does both or maybe it drives the LED with as a PWM signal (that is probably it). However it is only a 12 volt device so maybe you could get 4 LED if you used XP-G, but probably not snce there is probably some voltage loss.
I found another page on it and I am preety sure this directly drives the LED and is meanwell replacement.
TheFishMan65
New member
jepjep I think you are going to have a really white tank with that ratio. I haven't order RBs yet, but from what I have read I don't think the frequency matter just try and get the bright ones.
woowoodengy
Upgrading my 20gal
hey guys i am planning on doing a diy led setup for my 260 gal. i plan on ordering from http://www.reefledlights.com/ since they got the best price but i'm not sure on what led's to get should i go with the XRE or XPG? how big is the difference?
I think the practical difference for most of us is if you can get the optics you want for the XP-Gs. The XP-Gs are more efficient, but I don't feel it is a night and day difference (maybe if you are pushing them harder at 1.5A).
With a build that size I would sugest looking at ETG tech or Cutter as you will have a larger number of LEDs and I think you could save a good deal of money. the site you mentioned is actually on the higher side of pricing IMHO and the only driver they list is a 700 ma 35w non dimming driver...
Check out http://www.cdiweb.com/PortalProductDetail.aspx?ProdId=368096 for the drivers.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Impossible without the right approach (reflow soldering here, not something you can poke at with an iron). There's a thermal ground pad under the LED that's very important. I suppose you could glue it down with conductive epoxy. Or, you could try one of the many DIY reflow techniques - toaster oven, electric skillet, etc. I have one of those flat ceramic electric stoves and I've played with doing reflow soldering on that. It's not something I'd want to risk doing to 100 LEDs for a big build, but it's fun to play with "junk" LEDs like this.
Really impossible to give a specific value, since it'll depend on environmental conditions and design of the sink, etc. My suggestion would be to use the largest size fan you can stomach (i.e. a 120mm "case fan") since they tend to generally produce more flow for a given level of noise.
Maybe this is my skeptical nature, but that unit makes me nervous. The datasheet is embarrassingly sparse. As fishman commented, that's a LED driver itself, not something you'd use to control other LED drivers. But there really aren't any meaningful specs, it's essentially a "black box."
Repeating what fishman said again, but that strikes me as a fairly white ratio - might want to go to more 60:40 royal blue:white.
If you're feeling picky on RB colors, look at the binning and labeling datasheet:
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP_B&L.pdf
Look at the dominant wavelength chart on page 8. Royal blue has three color bins, from 450 - 465nm. The differences aren't going to be THAT big, but if you want more of a purple-y actinic glow, you might want a lower wavelength. Be warned that many vendors either don't know the bins they have, or will only have one bin available if they do know, so you might just be "stuck" with whatever they have anyways.
Correct, R5 is the current best brightness bin for the XP-G, but the datasheet shows brighter bins that apparently don't exist in real life (yet?). It's important to not confuse brightness bin and color bin - all HP LEDs are assigned both, though we don't typically pay attention to both.
Especially on a larger build, IMHO, it IS a very significant difference. We're talking about 30 - 40% improvements in efficiency! It doesn't just impact your power bill, it impacts EVERY other aspect of these builds - 30% less heat, which means your thermal management needs are reduced. Or, you can choose to still use an overwhelming thermal management system, and get longer life, and greater efficiency from the entire array - lower temps mean another small improvement in efficiency. And so on. Even small-percentage improvements in LED efficiency can translate into a host of other advantages that tend to build off each other. IMHO, unless someone has special needs, the XP-G should be the default choice at this point in time.
I was concerned about optics until the last week or two, when people like Stu started finding new sources for a wider choice in optics - it's not quite as big a concern any more, IMHO.
My build will be starting next week. I wasn't going to use optics but now I think I may need them. Where is a good source for wide optics 60 degree for xp-e and xp-g?
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stugray
Premium Member
trentdingo,
Yes that would work as a PWM to drive a Meanwell P type.
Just use 10.0 Volts as the input, hook the output to the meanwell dim lines and it would work fine.
Stu
Yes that would work as a PWM to drive a Meanwell P type.
Just use 10.0 Volts as the input, hook the output to the meanwell dim lines and it would work fine.
Stu
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Stu, how are you making that judgement? Asking out of curiosity. The product literature doesn't make any statements about the voltage on the output side, so it doesn't seem we can assume that Vin = Vout regardless of load.
Ok what do you think of the following? Sound about right, don't know if I'll get it
Also what K would you say a 50:50 would be and the same for 60:40?
20) XPG Cool White's flux group R5 and performace group or chromaticity region WA or WK LED's. These should the highest output with a color closest to 10K
*28) XPE Royal Blue's flux group 15 and DWL bin D4 LED's. These should be the highest output with a color of 455-460nm.
*28) 60 degree clear/white optics
*20) 40 degree clear/white optics
Thanks
James
Also what K would you say a 50:50 would be and the same for 60:40?
20) XPG Cool White's flux group R5 and performace group or chromaticity region WA or WK LED's. These should the highest output with a color closest to 10K
*28) XPE Royal Blue's flux group 15 and DWL bin D4 LED's. These should be the highest output with a color of 455-460nm.
*28) 60 degree clear/white optics
*20) 40 degree clear/white optics
Thanks
James
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
When considering typical XP-G R5 and XP-E or XR-E royal blue, 50:50 is probably close to a 10kk MH. 60:40 is probably close to a typical 15kk MH. Assuming similar optics, similar drive current, etc. Though there's a large range for personal interpretation here.
XP-G aren't available in WA or WK color bins. XP-G cool white are binned on the ANSI Cool White scale - graph on the BOTTOM of page 9 in the binning and labeling guide. Also, I know this is somewhat of a contradiction of what I've said before, but I don't think it always makes sense to get the "coolest" cool whites you can - for some people, that might result in a washed-out look thanks to the near complete lack of warm light in the tank.
Otherwise sounds fine.
XP-G aren't available in WA or WK color bins. XP-G cool white are binned on the ANSI Cool White scale - graph on the BOTTOM of page 9 in the binning and labeling guide. Also, I know this is somewhat of a contradiction of what I've said before, but I don't think it always makes sense to get the "coolest" cool whites you can - for some people, that might result in a washed-out look thanks to the near complete lack of warm light in the tank.
Otherwise sounds fine.
stugray
Premium Member
DWZM,
"Stu, how are you making that judgement? Asking out of curiosity"
Educated guess.
I would bet that all that is in there is a 7805 Vreg, a dual 555 timer IC, and a power MOSFET.
It should work just fine at 10 VDC and the output will just be a variable duty cycle 10VDC waveform (PWM).
Although this device is supposed to drive high currents it will look right to the meanwell.
Worst case is you just have to put a resistor on the output.
Stu
"Stu, how are you making that judgement? Asking out of curiosity"
Educated guess.
I would bet that all that is in there is a 7805 Vreg, a dual 555 timer IC, and a power MOSFET.
It should work just fine at 10 VDC and the output will just be a variable duty cycle 10VDC waveform (PWM).
Although this device is supposed to drive high currents it will look right to the meanwell.
Worst case is you just have to put a resistor on the output.
Stu
TheFishMan65
New member
stu,
Why then does it say an 8 amp driver? That seems like a lot of power to drive meanwells or any other LED driver since they only take milliamps.
It also says "Universal single color LED dimmer can dim any 12 VDC LED products from 0 to 100 percent using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) circuit." I read "LED product" as the LEDs themselves not a driver in the middle.
Note output power 96 watts and max load current 8 amps so must be 12 volts out.
[EDIT]
I had the same question, but DWZM beat me to it before
Why then does it say an 8 amp driver? That seems like a lot of power to drive meanwells or any other LED driver since they only take milliamps.
It also says "Universal single color LED dimmer can dim any 12 VDC LED products from 0 to 100 percent using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) circuit." I read "LED product" as the LEDs themselves not a driver in the middle.
Note output power 96 watts and max load current 8 amps so must be 12 volts out.
[EDIT]
I had the same question, but DWZM beat me to it before
wld1783
Premium Member
Thanks for the link their price is good. I tried to order a few and they are out of stock till mid July:mad2:
Any other place that has the 48D drivers for less than $30?
Bill
stugray
Premium Member
TheFishMan65,
Because it is intended to be a standalone driver for an LED.
It is just a cheap & quick solution for people having trouble driving the P-type meanwells.
I dont think I could buy all the discrete parts & a hobby box for $14.
Just because it CAN supply 8 Amps doesnt mean it has to.
Stu
Because it is intended to be a standalone driver for an LED.
It is just a cheap & quick solution for people having trouble driving the P-type meanwells.
I dont think I could buy all the discrete parts & a hobby box for $14.
Just because it CAN supply 8 Amps doesnt mean it has to.
Stu
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