DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
Ok stu I understand what you are saying. But why bother with the meanwells then. For the saving ( of not buying meanells) you could probably add the logic to run strings (8 at 1 amp) of 3 LEDs in parallel. That is actually pretty cheap for driving 24 LEDs. I think that was why I was confused, that for explaining.
 
"Ok stu I understand what you are saying. But why bother with the meanwells then. For the saving ( of not buying meanells) you could probably add the logic to run strings (8 at 1 amp) of 3 LEDs in parallel. That is actually pretty cheap for driving 24 LEDs. I think that was why I was confused, that for explaining."

The meanwells regulate the current ( constant current driver ).
These PWM drivers will let you turn up the current until you blow up your LEDs.
Also, at 12VDC max, you can only drive 3-4 LEDs and it requires an external 12VDC power supply.

The meanwells are still more cost effective & more high tech, but these cheap PWMs could drive a couple hundred Meanwell dim circuits.

I would also never drive these high dollar HPLEDs in any parallel configuration.

Stu
 
skippyreef said:
Need some help!!!

I wired + to - to + to - and what I get is a flash after I unplug the LEDS but not while they are plugged in?????
Click to expand...

What driver are you using? Seems to me like you didn't put anything on the Dim + , - wires. Whats happening is that the light don't turn on, then fade from 0 to 100% FLASH! and Off right?

If this is the case, try hooking up a regular 9V battery to those cables and you're set. You'll need a 10V max power supply in order to turn on the LEDs if you're not using any kind of dimming device
 
48-60D needs a 10V signal to turn on. What do you have connected to the LPC 35-700? You mean you tried the with the other driver and doesn't work either?

If they do the Fade thing, means you have everything wired correctly. Why two drivers? How many LEDs? post a summary of what you have
 
I have 12 cree XRE Q5 and RB. I hook up to the LPC 35-700 and they do not come on. I hook up to the 60-48D and they come on when I unplug flash and then turn off.
 
Here is what I have going on.

DSCN0852.jpg

DSCN0847.jpg
 
Looks like a fair amount of wire showing around some of those solder joints. Might want to probe the whole thing with a multimeter (dimmer unconnected - just check LED pads to heatsink, etc.) to check for shorts.

Any chance you can measure voltage/current on the output of the driver(s) when they're wired up?
 
Can you explain a little better how to check against the heat sink? I took the wires out last night and am getting a desolder iron this morning to fix a couple joints. With the LED's being on the heat sink they should be ok right? I am not heating them more than a few seconds. They all still light when checking with the multimeter
 
I am going to build an array with 42 XP-G cool white run by 3 meanwell 60-48Ds 14 leds per driver is that OK? I want to use my Apex to dim them can I wire all 3 meanwell dimming leads together to one of the variable speed ports to dim the cool whites together? Will I need run the meanwells at max power and dim them up to 60-80% with the Apex or set the meanwell at half power and dim to 100% of that with the Apex? How many XP-E royal blue can I run on one meanwell eln60-48D I have 5 and wanted to run 14 to give me a total of 70 RB is that a good ratio?
 
skippyreef said:
Can you explain a little better how to check against the heat sink? I took the wires out last night and am getting a desolder iron this morning to fix a couple joints. With the LED's being on the heat sink they should be ok right? I am not heating them more than a few seconds. They all still light when checking with the multimeter
Click to expand...

Put the multimeter in "continuity check" mode or resistance-measuring mode. Put one probe on an LED's pad. Touch the other probe to the heatsink. If you get ANY sort of response, that pad (or the wire/LED connected to it) may be shorted to the heatsink.

It's pretty easy to be sloppy when soldering the pads on these stars, and end up with an unintentional solder bridge to the heatsink, or the side of the star, or something else you don't want to be part of the circuit. So, check for those sorts of problems visually.

nitjt said:
I am going to build an array with 42 XP-G cool white run by 3 meanwell 60-48Ds 14 leds per driver is that OK?
Click to expand...

Probably, but you might end up maxing the driver. Might be better to only use 13 per.

I want to use my Apex to dim them can I wire all 3 meanwell dimming leads together to one of the variable speed ports to dim the cool whites together? Will I need run the meanwells at max power and dim them up to 60-80% with the Apex or set the meanwell at half power and dim to 100% of that with the Apex?
Click to expand...

You SHOULD be fine connecting many meanwells to a single "port" on the controller, but to be sure, you should ask the controller manufacturer what the max current on each port is, and ensure you're under that.

Generally, the approach I would take would be to set your "max power" by adjusting the internal current limit trimpot while there is a 100% signal on the dimming connection (from the controller.) Then, you can dim down from that value with the controller.

How many XP-E royal blue can I run on one meanwell eln60-48D I have 5 and wanted to run 14 to give me a total of 70 RB is that a good ratio?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't go over 13 on each driver. At 1000mA, royal blues drop around 3.5v, so 14 of them is 49v, which is not where you want to be.
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
It's pretty easy to be sloppy when soldering the pads on these stars, and end up with an unintentional solder bridge to the heatsink, or the side of the star, or something else you don't want to be part of the circuit. So, check for those sorts of problems visually.
Click to expand...
Skippyreef,
It is definitely very easy to be sloppy. IME, the most obvious place to look is the edge of the star as DWZM pointed out, where you have exposed wire going to the solder pads. Your first picture actually looks fine, but you do have a fair amount of exposed wire and one of them could be touching the edge of the star.
You can avoid this by striping less of the wire and only expose enough of it for the solder pads. Sometimes that results in the sheathing ends getting mutilated from the high temps when you solder, but if you're fast, it won't be an issue.
-R
 
some of your solder joints look like "balls" instead of "flows". It looks like the pad on the star didn't get heated up enough to make the sold flow on the pad. This could lead to easy detach from what is called a "cold" joint.

Are you doing your soldering while the star is on the heat sink? Not the best way to try, the heatsink will pull heat away from making a good solder joint.
 
Trimming plexi is SOO MUCH FUN. Had to knock about 3/8th inch off the ones I had Lowes cut into strips. I guess a tape measure is too complected for them to use :) Finally making headway on the LED assembly.

This is my final layout. The numbers above the LED are the circuit they will be ran on. 3 and 4 will be dusk/dawn A, 1 and 2 will be Dusk/Dawn B which will add in some warm whites to bring in some more color with the blues, 5 kicks in next adding a few more whites then 6 and 7 brings in all the whites for midday. LED's will be spaced 3" apart with no optics. Now I just hope my soldering "skills" kick in pretty quick, it's been a while. It sounds good on paper anyway :D

finalledlayout.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
348
ronnyking
R
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
533
S|\/|S
S
AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
2
Replies
23
Views
579
griss
griss
B
Beam Deflection - 15 years and I finally broke down and wrote a how to.
Replies
16
Views
934
BeanAnimal
B
A
Fleece filter bypass problems (Innovitech X filter)
Replies
1
Views
64
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
Back
Top