skippyreef
New member
I only bought one~ That was enough after the euro to Dollar conversion 

While we're talking about DALI and possible drivers for this system, what are you thinking about this Der Willw Zur Macht or Kcress?
I'm heading towards LED's also, great thread, it's going to be a pain to read through all this though, don't even know where to start.
Welcome to RC!
Start with the very first page of this thread... I mean the original. Not this split of it. Read the first 3 or 4 pages. That gives you a whole bunch of the Big Picture.
Major overkill for lighting our tanks, at this point anyway. That stuff is great for things like American Idol stages but it's a lot to add for something that normally will spend its life at one setting. You may have noticed some people have to back off their light to prevent coral bleaching. This infers that coral etc. like a certain amount once they get acclimated. Having a system to really move the brightness around seems counter to that.
It would certainly be fun to mess with though.:bigeyes:
My heat sink runs around 100. Afte two hours I tried to find how jot it was. I was luck that I have an infrared that holds the maximum. Even the LEDs were under 110 degree Farenheit. I am sure the inside of the LED is hotter, but I think anything heatsink running around 100 degree Farnehit or less will be fine. Hotter will work it just may shorten the LED life.
If you can keep your finger on it you're OK.
And I mean the bulk area of the heat sink not the edge of a fin.![]()