DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Wow this thread is awsome im thinking about doing this and ditching my halides and t5's i just need to find a local LED supply shop... any one order parts from granger
 
Wow this thread is awsome im thinking about doing this and ditching my halides and t5's i just need to find a local LED supply shop... any one order parts from granger

granger really doesn't have anything that fits our needs. try led supply, or cutter if your not in a hurry.
 
akindbro- your tank looks like lots of fun- is that one big heatsinkusa heatsink you used for the fixture, or something else?
 
akindbro; Very nice!

Please give a brief run down:
Strings:
LEDs:
String Currents:
Ratio White to Blue:
Drivers:
Dimming:?
Basic Mechanical: U-Channel? Heat sinks ON U-Channel?

Thanks!

Hey, why the gap in the middle?
 
Been gone for a while. I am absolutely amazed how far this has gone! You guys are taking this to new levels.

My original fixture is still kicking strong after all this time. However, I'm about to cut it in half and use that half over my aquapod. The 75 is going to be torn down soon. It has become a fixture in the house and I feel like I've been losing interest. I thing starting a new tank is what I need.

Wish me luck!
 
akindbro; Very nice!

Please give a brief run down:
Strings:
LEDs:
String Currents:
Ratio White to Blue:
Drivers:
Dimming:?
Basic Mechanical: U-Channel? Heat sinks ON U-Channel?

Thanks!

Hey, why the gap in the middle?



ok heres the rundown.

The heatsink is 2 heatsinkusa 8.5x48 heatsinks screwed together at the ends with an L bracket like so.
DSCN0148.jpg

the I hooks are drilled, and tapped to the sink, and chains added for adjusting height.

Like this

DSCN0147.jpg


the threaded eye bolt allow me to level the fixture.

now for the good stuff
.

48 xp-g run on four string
each string is run in series on a meanwell 60-48p at 750mA

48 xp-e on four strings
each string is run on a meanwell 60-48p at 1000ma

for wiring I used 9 conductor irrigation wire. surves two purposes. First it limits the number of "wires" running to my fixture. second irrigation wire is flooded, and uv treated so that will add in it's durability. The cable is attached to the back of the heatsink with metal p loops llke this.

DSCN0149.jpg


wires are connected to the drivers using ballast disconnects found at lowes.like these.

DSCN0152.jpg



drivers are plugged into a line conditioning "surge protector"
for alll those worried about 8 meanwells on one circuit I can say I have no problems with or without the little extra protection. Total current draw is 2.9 amps.

I am testing open frame, and covered to see if there is any heat difference. They are mounted to a wall inside my cabinet like this.

DSCN0150.jpg


For now pwm is generated by a diy pwm circuit, as I can't seam to get my timer to work with my arduino to use the eln shield created by dwm.

here is my crude pwm.

DSCN0151.jpg


wheww that took a while. any more questions let me know.
 
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Been gone for a while. I am absolutely amazed how far this has gone! You guys are taking this to new levels.

My original fixture is still kicking strong after all this time. However, I'm about to cut it in half and use that half over my aquapod. The 75 is going to be torn down soon. It has become a fixture in the house and I feel like I've been losing interest. I thing starting a new tank is what I need.

Wish me luck!

good luck and thanks for the inspiration.
 
akindbro; Very nice!

Please give a brief run down:
Strings:
LEDs:
String Currents:
Ratio White to Blue:
Drivers:
Dimming:?
Basic Mechanical: U-Channel? Heat sinks ON U-Channel?

Thanks!

Hey, why the gap in the middle?


the gap in the middle is because i have a brace there, but it is clear, and i could have put leds there, so as you will see i have a flat rock under that spot I use it for light acclimation. start in the center, and move out to acclimate. worked well for me so far.
 
Been gone for a while. I am absolutely amazed how far this has gone! You guys are taking this to new levels.

My original fixture is still kicking strong after all this time. However, I'm about to cut it in half and use that half over my aquapod. The 75 is going to be torn down soon. It has become a fixture in the house and I feel like I've been losing interest. I thing starting a new tank is what I need.

Wish me luck!
Do you have any recent pictures of your aquarium?
 
Been gone for a while. I am absolutely amazed how far this has gone! You guys are taking this to new levels.

My original fixture is still kicking strong after all this time. However, I'm about to cut it in half and use that half over my aquapod. The 75 is going to be torn down soon. It has become a fixture in the house and I feel like I've been losing interest. I thing starting a new tank is what I need.

Wish me luck!

Good luck! And, thanks for starting this thread and the ball rolling. We regularly send people back to page one since your write-up was so clean.

I fully understand the "fixture" mentality. It's especially prevalent to DIY'ers since we like "the chase" probably more than the results. :lmao:


Suggestion. Sell your fixture as-is and build a new custom one to fit your new project. Your original one doesn't lend itself to being cut in two and there are lots of people who don't feel they can DIY their own. Put it in R/C's classifieds. :dance:
 
wld1783-

I have never put any LEDs in parallel. But that's cool if it's working out for you. I think all of this parallel/nonparallel stuff was discussed a few dozen pages back in great deal, but I was tuned out because it didn't and probably might not ever pertain to me unless the prices of the LEDs drop drastically, and even at that point I might not be so interested in doing the work with the multimeter and variable resistors on strings to even out the current. I'd rather squeeze close to as much light out of the LEDs as they will produce.

But you are certainly correct about running more LEDs at lower current being more efficient. If the startup cost doesn't matter so much and you're more about using as little electricity as possible, then that's the way to go.

Widmer
If your worried about cost, all the more reason to run parallel strings. With 2 HLG-120-54B Mean well drivers running 4 and 6 strings of 15 LEDs each, I should be able to do what others are doing with 12 ENL-60-48 Mean wells. That alone is going so save a bunch of money on drivers and electricity. The drivers are designed to be run this way and will be more efficient. There is really no reason to run them at reduced voltage if you do not want to, especially if you use fast blow fuses to protect the strings.
 
So, my tank is going to be lit by 240 LEDs, and I'm slightly worried about harmonics and just the price of drivers in general. I was looking at the specs of the HLG-240-20, it looks like it's enough to run 12 parallel strings of 6 LEDs at 3.2v at 800mA...So each one could power 72 LEDs in a parallel series right? Or is it better to go with a higher voltage, lower amperage driver and run more LEDs in each series?

The way I see it, with smaller series in parallel, if one string failed, it wouldn't affect the other strings as much... Say each 6 LED string in 12 is running at 800mA, if one LED (thus the whole string) failed the rest of the strings would still be running at 872mA which is perfectly safe right?

Please correct me if I'm wrong with this, I'm still pretty new to hobby electronics. I'm used to looking at diagrams and troubleshooting, not building from scratch.

Interesting way to go about it. As far as I can tell you plan should work. I am planning to have 150 LEDs. I am thinking about using 2 HLG-120-54B Mean well drivers running 4 and 6 strings of 15 LEDs each. I will have 6 XPEs RB and 4 XPG white strings. Only reason I am using the same driver for both is if I want more light I can add another string or 2 to the driver for the whites.

I wonder what the advantages, disadvantages of our two setups compared to each other would be?.
 
I'm planning on running 24 strings of mixed RB and CW XR-E, 6 LEDs per string.....If my calculations are right I'll need either 2 HLG-240-20A or 2 of the new HLG-185-20A/B:

3.2v per LED x 6 = 19.2V, which should also be should work off those 20v power supplies right? 6 LEDs at 800mA comes in at 4.8A per series, correct? So 12 series x 3.2v x 4.8A= 184.32W, close to being out of specs for the HLG-185-20, so would it be better to go with the bigger power supply?

I'm also going to be running 8 strings of 6 RB XR-Es and 8 strings of CW XR-Es, I'm thinking of running each set of 8 strings in parallel of 6 LEDs again, but on the new HLG-150-20B, (4.8a x 3.2v x 8 strings = 122.88W) letting me dim each strip of solid colors.

Please criticize my plan for any flaws.
 
Good luck! And, thanks for starting this thread and the ball rolling. We regularly send people back to page one since your write-up was so clean.

I fully understand the "fixture" mentality. It's especially prevalent to DIY'ers since we like "the chase" probably more than the results. :lmao:


Suggestion. Sell your fixture as-is and build a new custom one to fit your new project. Your original one doesn't lend itself to being cut in two and there are lots of people who don't feel they can DIY their own. Put it in R/C's classifieds. :dance:

You think someone would be willing to buy it?
 
westmoorenerd,

I think you are confused I think all meanwells (including the HLG series take 120 volts ac). So you don't need 20 volt supply. I haven't worked with the meanweels, but I also htink you want to run them close to there maximum output so you probably want 12-15 LEDs per string.
 
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