DIY LEDs - The write-up

[hllywd]

I have to think at least a few people would be interested in the mothership Soundwave! I think the ball you got rolling here is pretty cool, this thread in large part is why I decided to do a 96 LED build for my 120. I currently have two arrays of 24 assembled with a few details to finish before I get them installed. Thanks for the shove I needed to get this started!
Tim

 

[Jepjep13]

Two quick questions

Any reason I shouldn't use 1/4" acrylite FF for a splash shield for my LED array. Also I want to use my Apex to dim meanwell D's. I want to use one port to dim 2 ME D's running whites and one port to dim 2 MW D's running blue, is this possible and if so can I run it all over CAT 5 wire
thanks

 

[laverda]

I'm planning on running 24 strings of mixed RB and CW XR-E, 6 LEDs per string.....If my calculations are right I'll need either 2 HLG-240-20A or 2 of the new HLG-185-20A/B:

3.2v per LED x 6 = 19.2V, which should also be should work off those 20v power supplies right? 6 LEDs at 800mA comes in at 4.8A per series, correct? So 12 series x 3.2v x 4.8A= 184.32W, close to being out of specs for the HLG-185-20, so would it be better to go with the bigger power supply?

I'm also going to be running 8 strings of 6 RB XR-Es and 8 strings of CW XR-Es, I'm thinking of running each set of 8 strings in parallel of 6 LEDs again, but on the new HLG-150-20B, (4.8a x 3.2v x 8 strings = 122.88W) letting me dim each strip of solid colors.

Please criticize my plan for any flaws.

I would use the higher amperage HLG-240-20s for all three drivers for 3 reasons.
1. If you wanted to keep a spare on hand, you only need one.
2. As the LEDs age you could increase the current to make up for the drop in output.
3. If you dicide you want some of them brighter you can easilly adjust them.

 

[widmer]

Laverda- You do have a good point. How much do the HLG-120-54B Meanwells cost anyway? I guess this tangent is just for my interest, being that no time soon will I be running anywhere near enough LEDs for the parallel strings to be worthwhile. I just run the little tanks, and don't see myself ever going over 24 LEDs, where I would need at least two separate drivers anyway to be able to adjust the blue balance.

Furthermore, my original LED build, that I don't see myself replacing anytime soon, was done with a 24v supply plus three buck pucks, and as I add a couple new little fixtures to light a rimless fuge and then some, I'm just going to be using a couple buck pucks and tethering them to the same power supply.

Interesting to know the various options nonetheless.

 

[laverda]

westmoorenerd,

I think you are confused I think all meanwells (including the HLG series take 120 volts ac). So you don't need 20 volt supply. I haven't worked with the meanweels, but I also htink you want to run them close to there maximum output so you probably want 12-15 LEDs per string.

The HLG-240-20A Mean well westmoorenerd is planing to use is 20 volt output not capable of running a string of 12-15 LEDs.
I am planning on using HLG-120-54B, which is 54 volt and capable of runing 15 LEDs in 6 strings at full power. We are both going to be driving about 75 LEDs per driver, one at low voltage/higher amperage, the other at higher voltage/ lower amperage.
I had asked what the advantages/disadvantages of both our setups might be.

 

[HeneryH]

Anyone need ELN-60-24d drivers to run three strings of 7 Crees each? I have nine extra because I reduced my build and ordered two for someone who backed out. PM me if interested. I don't know how else to get rid of these things? $25/ea.

edit - I should say I am running three drivers @ 21 ea for a total of 62 LEDs and don't see any imbalance between the strings. I have not measured the string currents though as it is very hard to measure current for multiple strings because you need to go in-line.

 

[westmoorenerd]

I would use the higher amperage HLG-240-20s for all three drivers for 3 reasons.
1. If you wanted to keep a spare on hand, you only need one.
2. As the LEDs age you could increase the current to make up for the drop in output.
3. If you dicide you want some of them brighter you can easilly adjust them.

Only issue I have with the larger HLG-240 series is that they're non-dimmable.

 

[westmoorenerd]

Anyone need ELN-60-24d drivers to run three strings of 7 Crees each? I have nine extra because I reduced my build and ordered two for someone who backed out. PM me if interested. I don't know how else to get rid of these things? $25/ea.

edit - I should say I am running three drivers @ 21 ea for a total of 62 LEDs and don't see any imbalance between the strings. I have not measured the string currents though as it is very hard to measure current for multiple strings because you need to go in-line.

Try posting on the for sale forum...

 

[kcress]

what did you use to hang the LED fixture?? the one attached to the heatsink?>

Hi yuzaki. You should certainly NOT use the standard crummy ornate plant hooks you see. They are horrible castings that spontaneously fail.

You should use something that will take a lot of weight.

If possible, use lag eye bolts and screw them into the rafters. If that won't work use 1/4" of 5/16" threaded eye bolts screwed into toggles. Add a fender washer before screwing the eye-bolt into the toggle, as it will provide a nice finish.

 

[laverda]

Only issue I have with the larger HLG-240 series is that they're non-dimmable.

One of the Mean well PDF files says the HLG-240-20B is dimmable, but others do not. I thought the letter B was the dimmable one, but another PDF says that is for the type of cords it has. http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/default.htm The box near the top of page one "B : IP67 rated. Constant current level adjustable through output cable. (Optional)" The diagram on page 3, it clearly shows a dimming circuit, yet it says nothing about them 240 being dimmable. I have found a lot of conflicting info in different PDF from Mean well. I will be verifying whet ever I get, is what I expect, before ordering it.

You might want to look at these drivers from Thomas Research. http://www.thomasresearchproducts.com/2010Datasheets/TRC-120 Dimming Series 04-28-10.pdf I do not know how the compare price wise to the mean wells. They are dimmable by just adding a pot or a 0-10 volt signal. I was considering them, till I found the larger HLGs were supposed to be dimmable. I defiantly want dimmable drivers.

 

[akindbro4u]

Hi yuzaki. You should certainly NOT use the standard crummy ornate plant hooks you see. They are horrible castings that spontaneously fail.

You should use something that will take a lot of weight.

If possible, use lag eye bolts and screw them into the rafters. If that won't work use 1/4" of 5/16" threaded eye bolts screwed into toggles. Add a fender washer before screwing the eye-bolt into the toggle, as it will provide a nice finish.

I used unistrut screwed between two beams, then used 1/2 spring clips and threaded the same I hooks into them. I'm sure it's over kill , but I tried to do it the best way I can, and not cut corners. I'll post pictures when my camera charges. always forget my nikon dosent charge via usb.

BTW.
I found the first real problem with my fixture. It is the last day in may in Florida, and I have to buy a heater. How about that. Last year I was running a chiller in April.

 

[kcress]

It is the last day in may in Florida, and I have to buy a heater.

Gee that's rough!

You need to pump water across a bolt-on heatsink on your fixture. Control the tiny pump with a temp controller.

 

[Jay1982]

Speaking of hanging fixtures. What type of metal are the eye bolts? I know steel is a no-no.

 

[akindbro4u]

Gee that's rough!

You need to pump water across a bolt-on heatsink on your fixture. Control the tiny pump with a temp controller.

i thought about that, but the titanium coil required to transfer the heat back to the tank in a closed loop is prohibitive. I guess I could just pump from my sump, but that would be 9'+ of head not a small pump to handle that. for what it would cost to run the pump I could just run a heater. my heat sink only runs about 90° anyway.

 

[akindbro4u]

Speaking of hanging fixtures. What type of metal are the eye bolts? I know steel is a no-no.

stainless....

 

[stugray]

I thought it would be awesome to run water (not tank water) through 1/4" copper wound through the heatsink fins and cool it with a CPU cooler ;-)

Stu

 

[Jay1982]

stainless....

I'm confused? You mean stainless steel is ok?

 

[akindbro4u]

I'm confused? You mean stainless steel is ok?

yes stainless steel is the only way to go. Aluminum does not have the load strength you may need.

 

[Jay1982]

Won't the metal corrode over time from galvanic corrosion? Especially since we are running electricity. 99% of us are grounding our fixtures incase of electricty transfering onto our heatsink. As I understand it electricity can increase galvanic corrosion. Humidity is another factor that increases galvanic corrosion along with temperature. These three factors are very real in our applications.

 

[Jay1982]

The only reason I'm bringing this up now is because I was showing my friend my lighting system and he's a chemist and mentioned that the alumium has a chance at corroding if I use the steel eye hooks I purchased for hanging the fixture