DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Bill
I want to be able to dim them with my Aquacontroller. I am looking at around 150 LEDS for my 240, so I would need more ELN 60-48D then is recomended to have one one household circuit. I will probably use several of the ELN 60-48Ds for my propagation system. The ELN 60-48Ds do not have Active Power Factor Correction.
wld1783 said:
laverda

Have you looked into the CLG 150-48A at 3.2A you can run 4 parallel strings of twelve and have room for one open circuit. It's manually dimmable through an internal potential meter. The HLG should have the same option according to Mean Well.

Personally I like to run my LEDs between 70-80% rated current. I'm very happy with this driver on my 48 LED fixture.

Only down side is its manual.

I finally got around to testing the ELN 60-48D and found it perfect for two parallel strings of 12. At 1.3 amps (I measured 1.5) it is too powerful for a single string of 12 at 10Vdc. I did not fry my LEDs as it was full power for only a couple of seconds. Two of these should power a 48 LED fixture perfectly provided no open circuits.

Bill
Click to expand...
 
laverda said:
Bill
I want to be able to dim them with my Aquacontroller. I am looking at around 150 LEDS for my 240, so I would need more ELN 60-48D then is recomended to have one one household circuit. I will probably use several of the ELN 60-48Ds for my propagation system. The ELN 60-48Ds do not have Active Power Factor Correction.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I know that serial is the overwhelming favorite here but I am running parallel with no problems. Your config would need 7 or 8 ELN-60-24D drivers if you ran parallel strings. You can fit 21 LEDs (three strings of seven each running at 833 mA) on a single driver.
 
I can't find it now, but where are you guys getting the thermal sheets for mounting the LEDs? Trying to save a few bucks over buying the precut ones:)
 
Does anyone have a good suggestion on where to get a Project Box (12.25 L x 8.75 W x 2.125 H)? I would like to use something that is very light and I can drill holes in it for my 4 Meanwell drivers.
 
Tell me if this is a good place/idea to start for a beginner with LED?

https://www.reefledlights.com/produ...-kits/36-cree-xr-e-kit-w-non-dimmable-driver/

I was considering 2 of these - giving me a total of 72 LED over a 48"x30". Looks like this would run me $620 for everything but a couple heat sinks. Speaking of heat sinks, I should be able to get 36 LED on a 20"x"20" heat sink? I was thinking of 2 units over my tank.

Lastly, how would 30 XR-E cool white & 42 Royal Blue look? I would suspect it would be bluer - which I would like. 14 - 20k???

So is this a good start, or a bad idea? Anything else not supplied that I would need?
 
DeepPirate said:
Does anyone have a good suggestion on where to get a Project Box (12.25 L x 8.75 W x 2.125 H)? I would like to use something that is very light and I can drill holes in it for my 4 Meanwell drivers.
Click to expand...

If you pack them in a box their lives will be curtailed if they can't get their cooling.

Boxes you seek are carried at your local electrical contractor supply place. They generally carry a selection of sizes and depths.
 
FranktheTankTx said:
Tell me if this is a good place/idea to start for a beginner with LED?

https://www.reefledlights.com/produ...-kits/36-cree-xr-e-kit-w-non-dimmable-driver/

I was considering 2 of these - giving me a total of 72 LED over a 48"x30". Looks like this would run me $620 for everything but a couple heat sinks. Speaking of heat sinks, I should be able to get 36 LED on a 20"x"20" heat sink? I was thinking of 2 units over my tank.

Lastly, how would 30 XR-E cool white & 42 Royal Blue look? I would suspect it would be bluer - which I would like. 14 - 20k???

So is this a good start, or a bad idea? Anything else not supplied that I would need?
Click to expand...

Looks OK to me but hopefully someone else can give you a better yah/nah.
Your proposed mix sounds reeeal blue.
 
GEORGEDOPE said:
I got a call back from Meanwell yesterday. The only HLG available now is the 240 which is not dimmable. All the other HLG's will not be available for at least 3 months and they will all come in a dimmable model. I got a price of about $90 for the HLG-150-54. But 1 of these would replace 4 of the ELN-60-48.
Click to expand...

Straight from one of their engineers:

The standard HLG-240 series does not have PWM or 1~10VDC dimming function. However, we can add the dimming functions to the power supply but doing so will violate all safety certificates and require MOQ.

For HLG-100/120/150/185, we are waiting samples for UL certifications. I believe the UL process will take about 3 months.



So....you CAN get them dimmable but it won't be certified.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
Looks ok to me too. How high are you mounting? 70 degree lenses maybe an issue, but I think I saw there was an option.
Click to expand...
There are 80 degree lenses as well. My canopy is 13" tall & I don't plan on putting it right on the tank. But rather a little up.

1. Does it look like everything is there that is needed (besides heat sink)?
2. Would you recommend a 20"x20" heat sink per half of my tank (48x30)? It was just my idea. Remember, I don't know jack *BLEEP*.

I would have no idea how to wire them/configure, but I'm sure someone would help me.

If the color (30 cool white/42 royal blue) is too blue - I could always change out a few.

3. What's your recommendation for a 18-20k deep blue look?
 
Look like verything, but the sink (no not the kitchen sink)
20x20 is probably good
Not sure about color, I think this might be closer to 14, but I really don't know for sure.
 
Temperature

Temperature

We have discussed several times what is the safe range for the heatsink and therefore the LEDs. Well I came across this today (you probably already saw it :)).
jameshongth said:
As LED maximum temperature is rated at the LED junction which cannot be measured directly and first of all, need to consider the thermal resistance of the LED :rolleyes: .

Therefore, the formula for calculating junction temperature is as below;

Junction Temp = Thermal Resistance X Wattage + Temperature of star

SSC P4 specification;

Thermal Resistance for R0 J-B is 8.5 C/watt
R0 J-B is measured with a SSC metal core pcb.(25 C<=TJ<=110 C)

Thermal Resistance for R0 J-C is 6.9 C/watt
R0 J-C is measured with only emitter. (25 C<=TJ<=110 C)

Temperature Junction, TJ is 145 C (@ IF<=700mA)

Ok..now back to my actual reading on star was 39 C taken so my Junction Temperature will be 8.5*4+39 = 73 C

Reference to SSC spec, as long the TJ is within this range (25 C<=TJ<=110 C) is considered in good range and my is only 73 C :D however, I would like to add extra 5% of my reading may be due to the accurancy of the digital thermometer used which will be somewhere around 78 C

SSCP4.jpg
Click to expand...

The CREE data sheet says thermal resistance junction to solder is 8 C/W. So if we can measure the solder point we can use the same formula. We can't. But can we add 2.4C/W (difference for the SSC LED) for the PCB and use 10.4 (say 12 for a little extra) as the thermal resistance from junction to the back of the board?

The XR-E runs 3.7 at 1 amp so 3.7 watts or add 12*3.7=44.4 degree C to the temperature of the heatsink. If I did my math righ 100 degree F (which a lot of use seem to run at) is 37 degree C so junction is 81 degree C.

Is this logic correct? This is the closest I have come to understanding it :)
 
kcress said:
Not much..:thumbdown

Notice how it states NOT for CPUs. It is not made for major heat transfer. Why not just use the pre-cut ones for mounting stars?
Click to expand...

I can get 5' of this shipped to my house for $5 , that is why I was asking about it:)

What makes you think it's not made for major heat transfer? The thermal conductivity seems greater for these pads then the Bergquist pads. The Sekisui pads have a rating of 1.24 W/mK, the Berg pads are .08:confused:
 
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HeneryH said:
FWIW, I know that serial is the overwhelming favorite here but I am running parallel with no problems. Your config would need 7 or 8 ELN-60-24D drivers if you ran parallel strings. You can fit 21 LEDs (three strings of seven each running at 833 mA) on a single driver.
Click to expand...
I plan to run parallel to but was hoping to run 6 strings of 15 LEDS and 4 strings of 15 LEDS using just 2 drivers. much more cost effective and efficient.
Running 7 drivers is likely to cause a problem from what I understand. Not to mention the cost of 7 drivers.
 
JoshuaG said:
What makes you think it's not made for major heat transfer?
Click to expand...

This:

The seller points out that it cannot be used for CPUs which are the same as LEDs.

The manufacturer of that tape has specified it as, "For adhesion of resin nameplates, For use in punching process".

And you are lobbying to use it on a bunch of expensive LEDs? :confused::hmm3::crazy1::eek1::blown:
 
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