DIY LEDs - The write-up

[laverda]

Originally Posted by GEORGEDOPE
I got a call back from Meanwell yesterday. The only HLG available now is the 240 which is not dimmable. All the other HLG's will not be available for at least 3 months and they will all come in a dimmable model. I got a price of about $90 for the HLG-150-54. But 1 of these would replace 4 of the ELN-60-48.

Straight from one of their engineers:

The standard HLG-240 series does not have PWM or 1~10VDC dimming function. However, we can add the dimming functions to the power supply but doing so will violate all safety certificates and require MOQ.

For HLG-100/120/150/185, we are waiting samples for UL certifications. I believe the UL process will take about 3 months.


So....you CAN get them dimmable but it won't be certified.

There is some very conflicting information coming from Mean well. Dad they say what they would charge to modify them? What is "MOQ" Would they still warranty them?

I talked to Greg Thomas Research yesterday and they have some 150 and 200 watt dimmable drivers available for $135 and 154 respectivly. They are not on their web site but the are sending me a PDF catalog. I can forward it to anyone interested if your email me at laverda@aol.com.
Steve

 

[westmoorenerd]

Laverda

The MOQ is minimum order of quantity... MW said the MOQ is 500 units for the dimmable HLG-240 series. Also I don't believe the warranty will apply.

 

[JoshuaG]

This:

The seller points out that it cannot be used for CPUs which are the same as LEDs.

The manufacturer of that tape has specified it as, "For adhesion of resin nameplates, For use in punching process".

And you are lobbying to use it on a bunch of expensive LEDs? :hmm3::crazy1::eek1::blown:

I'm not lobbying anything, simply trying to find a technical reason why that thermal tape is a no go. Like I mentioned earlier, it's thermal conductivity is rated higher then the Bergquist pads, does that mean the BG pads that several LED places sell are garbage?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I'm not lobbying anything, simply trying to find a technical reason why that thermal tape is a no go. Like I mentioned earlier, it's thermal conductivity is rated higher then the Bergquist pads, does that mean the BG pads that several LED places sell are garbage?

I dug around on their website and it didn't get very specific there. It could be this tape isn't designed to hold up to the amount of heat a CPU, or LED will produce.

 

[laverda]

Mine parallel strings work fine. I run three Meanwells each with three strings in parallel. I never tested or balanced the Vf, just fired them up and they run well balanced to the eye.[/B][/SIZE]

Henery
What voltage and current are you running hte LEDs at?

 

[Soundwave]

FWIW. My fixture is in the classifieds section. If you want it. Let me know.

 

[widmer]

Soundwave - If I had the money, I'd buy it as a historical artifact (even though it's the same components as the one I recently built) . What are you planning on building next?

 

[HeneryH]

Henery
What voltage and current are you running hte LEDs at?

2.5A/3 = 833 mA each string.

I tune the voltage down from the max 24v down to something like 23.1v (I forget exactly but it is the Vf * 7).

 

[Jepjep13]

I'm in the thick of building my led array but having a little trouble with screwing them down. Currently have size 4 x 3/8 stainless button head screw trying to self tap them into a 3/32 hole. Problem is I can only hand screw them about half way in and using a screw gun breaks the screw in half. Next standard size drill bit is 7/64 which the size 4 screw falls into ( to big). And yes the holes are deep enough.

 

[kcress]

?? i have never seen self tapping screws only 3/8 long.

If you are just trying to screw standard machine screws into non-threaded holes in solid aluminum and expecting everything to work.. I think you are going to be continually disappointed.

 

[widmer]

kcress,

When I built my fixture, I simply drilled holes into the aluminum block which were just slightly smaller than the width of the #8 screws that I used, and they went in somewhat reasonably easy, and seem to be holding strong.

I must be totally missing the boat on what "self-tapping" screws are, but when I saw them at the hardware store they just looked like screws with a drill bit-like tip, nothing more. What am I missing out of this whole situation?

 

[stugray]

"I must be totally missing the boat on what "self-tapping" screws are, but when I saw them at the hardware store they just looked like screws with a drill bit-like tip, nothing more. "

Those are self tapping screws. They will work in aluminum, but mostly only when the drill bit end can "break-through" the material then the threads will catch.
This works well with the AL 1/8" channel.

If you are trying to use them on the thinker AL. heat-sinks, then it wont work well at all.
Once the threads try to catch, the "bit" is still trying to remove material & it has no where to go and now the "bit" & threads are trying to advance at different rates...just ruins the threads.

(Just drilled & tapped ~150 8-32 holes in the last day, so, I have an idea ;-)

Stu

 

[Murphs205]

anyone hear from "der wille" lately ? im trying to run him down , cant seem to run into him anywhere

 

[Soundwave]

I'm going to build one for my 24G aquapod. I really don't want to go cutting the original light up for that.

 

[akindbro4u]

anyone hear from "der wille" lately ? im trying to run him down , cant seem to run into him anywhere

last I heard he was on a "secret mission"

work stuff i presume.

 

[akindbro4u]

I'm in the thick of building my led array but having a little trouble with screwing them down. Currently have size 4 x 3/8 stainless button head screw trying to self tap them into a 3/32 hole. Problem is I can only hand screw them about half way in and using a screw gun breaks the screw in half. Next standard size drill bit is 7/64 which the size 4 screw falls into ( to big). And yes the holes are deep enough.

try using a #6 tapping bit.

 

[Jepjep13]

I'm in the thick of building my led array but having a little trouble with screwing them down. Currently have size 4 x 3/8 stainless button head screw trying to self tap them into a 3/32 hole. Problem is I can only hand screw them about half way in and using a screw gun breaks the screw in half. Next standard size drill bit is 7/64 which the size 4 screw falls into ( to big). And yes the holes are deep enough.

Ok I got it to go. I'm not using "self tapping" screws. Just had to get the right drill bit .104 or #37 works for a #4 x 3/8 ss screw from lowes. I plan to do a right up after I finish the case to hold it all.

 

[kcress]

widmer; There are:

standard machine screws = no threading ability.

self tapping screws = they have a slit down the side and self tap when used in appropriate holes.

self drilling and tapping screws = have the slot and a drill bit on the face. They will drill the hole and self tap.



Yeah willie's been gone for 2-1/2 weeks.

 

[King_Richard]

Regarding your previous post, sure you could start with just the white LEDs, however unless a more efficient Blue LED comes out I would not do 12 XP-Gs. I have a setup with 8 XP-E cool white and 8 XP-E royal blue and I would say that it is a little on the warm side from what most people seem to prefer. Using the XP-Gs will make it even warmer. I might do 8 XP-Gs and 16 blues, but that is just me. Are you planning on being able to dim the different colors?

As far as the optics, what angle are you looking for? The PVC might work, but will be FAR less efficient than the frosted optics you mention. The 60 degree optics from ETG seem like they could be a promising option. I have not had a chance to try them yet but should have some here soon to play with.

I plan on starting with 12 white since I can't afford 36 led's at the moment. I do need some kind of lighting and instead of buying T5's I figured I'd make the move to led's. Once I get the white's I'll slowly be adding in blue's, I'll keep in mind that I'll probally want 2x the amount blue's though.

I'm thinking that the 60 degree optics would be perfect but I haven't been able to find them.

King Richard,

12 XPG migt be a little low on light. The current recommendation is 1 per 10-20 square inches of surface. Now XPG are a little brighter, but not twice. Start with 12 and see.

I only throw this out for thought. The PVC my limit the air flow around the LEDs. Yes lenses to, but they are made for them. With 12 LED you are going to be running fairly hot. I don't know if the PVC will create a heat issue.

With the 12 that I intend to get, I plan on focusing them on the rockwall that's across the back of the tank. This is where the coral will be going so I'll concentrate the light there and the back of the tank is only 24" wide and the coral probally won't go any further out than 8-10" from the back. If I can keep most of the light concentrated in that area than it should be good.

That's something I didn't think of, I don't know if the pvc will tolerate the heat. If I can't find the 60 degree optics than I'll play around with the pvc and maybe some flashlight reflectors if I can find em cheap.

 

[JoshuaG]

Here is my latest build, I would love to hear some opinions on how you guys would cool it. It's going to be in an enclosed fixture, my plan so far was to do something similar to the ATI PM fan setup. 3 fans pulling in air from the top left and exiting out the end cap on the right side.