TheFishMan65
New member
Believe kcress first posted this fact. The HLG series of drivers only dims to about 50% of the drive current. So dawn will be like when you were a kid and mom came in and opened the blinds at 7:00 in the morning 
DIY LEDs - The write-up
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kcress
New member
Believe kcress first posted this fact. The HLG series of drivers only dims to about 50% of the drive current. So dawn will be like when you were a kid and mom came in and opened the blinds at 7:00 in the morning
No no no! Only the 240 and 320's would only dim to 50% the 185 dims way down, as do all the ones below the 185.
kcress
New member
Yes! Thanks. Sounds like a great plan. Now if you can just lay hands on those pesky HLGs. :lmao:
Believe kcress first posted this fact. The HLG series of drivers only dims to about 50% of the drive current. So dawn will be like when you were a kid and mom came in and opened the blinds at 7:00 in the morning
Actually I found the post and he's indicated that the HLG dims fully up until the HLG240 and HLG320. Those don't dim fully.
S2minute
New member
Fully dimmable 240s & 320s have to be in the works. It makes no sence not to. I`m going to call and ask why...i`m a pain like that. Maybe if they hear of enough interest in fully dimmable versions...:hammer:
firechild
Premium Member
Powergate provided me with a quote for various MW drivers including HLGs. They seemed to indicate there would be no problem supplying though it could take up to 10 weeks to fill my order. Since the other drivers were ELN and LPC I'm guessing the high lead time would be due to the HLGs.
guillotine
New member
well below is the list of everything that i think i am going to need for my LED lighting system over my 125g tank let me know what you guys think, if i need anything else or more of anything. the fans to cool the units i will get later on and the wiring i have plenty of at my house just not sure what gauge would be best to use. thanks for your input
Shopping Cart
Rapid LED Items
Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs
4.25-23HS-24DT Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs $50.00 x2= $100.00
Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver
ELN-60-48D Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver
$34.00 x4= $136.00
CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED on Star
RB-425-CREE CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED on Star
$5.75 x32=$184
CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
CW-107-CREE CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
$5.75 x16=$92
80 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
80-XRE-LENS 80 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
$1.00 x12= $12.00
60 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
60-XRE-LENS 60 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
$1.00 x36= $36.00
10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer
$3.50 x4= $14.00
3-Prong Power Cord
$2.50 x4= $10.00
10V AC Adapter
$10.00 x4= $40.00
Sub-Total $624.00
Shipping: insurance $6
Rapid LED ESTIMATED TOTAL $630.00
since coming up what i thought was everything i was going to need, i have been told that i do not need 4 10v ac adapters, is that true?
also i was told i should incorporate some xp-g neutral whites so i have been thinking of making the whites row like this for each heat sink (this will be the middle row of the three) W W NW W W NW W W
any advice would be great appreciated
Shopping Cart
Rapid LED Items
Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs
4.25-23HS-24DT Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs $50.00 x2= $100.00
Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver
ELN-60-48D Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver
$34.00 x4= $136.00
CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED on Star
RB-425-CREE CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED on Star
$5.75 x32=$184
CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
CW-107-CREE CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
$5.75 x16=$92
80 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
80-XRE-LENS 80 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
$1.00 x12= $12.00
60 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
60-XRE-LENS 60 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
$1.00 x36= $36.00
10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer
$3.50 x4= $14.00
3-Prong Power Cord
$2.50 x4= $10.00
10V AC Adapter
$10.00 x4= $40.00
Sub-Total $624.00
Shipping: insurance $6
Rapid LED ESTIMATED TOTAL $630.00
since coming up what i thought was everything i was going to need, i have been told that i do not need 4 10v ac adapters, is that true?
also i was told i should incorporate some xp-g neutral whites so i have been thinking of making the whites row like this for each heat sink (this will be the middle row of the three) W W NW W W NW W W
any advice would be great appreciated
TheFishMan65
New member
You only eed 1 pot for color (it can drive multiple meanwells). You can also use one poer cord.
guillotine
New member
would i be able to run 16 cree xr-e RB on one driver to make it so two drivers run each unit and one driver runs each color bulb?
kcress
New member
No. You can parallel and run about 24 on one ELN60-48 or you only run 12 or 13.
kcress
New member
Well that's something that they will provide them. I suppose you could work on finishing everything else in the interim.
Kcress, could you answer this for me:
I am doing a large parallel build and was wondering which is the best technique for combining the LED strings at the end of each string.
1) run a seperate wire back from each string, combine in a terminal block and then bridge together back to the MW driver. (like the diagram that has been posted in this thread with the black background)
or
2) combine the LED strings at each end and just run one wire back to the MW driver.
Does it make a difference?
Thanks
I am doing a large parallel build and was wondering which is the best technique for combining the LED strings at the end of each string.
1) run a seperate wire back from each string, combine in a terminal block and then bridge together back to the MW driver. (like the diagram that has been posted in this thread with the black background)
or
2) combine the LED strings at each end and just run one wire back to the MW driver.
Does it make a difference?
Thanks
TheFishMan65
New member
IMHO no difference as long as each string has protection (fuse or other). And once they are combined you are using heavy enough wire to carry the combined currents.
TheFishMan65
New member
That should work.
kcress
New member
I would always use the terminal block method. It's neat and tidy and allows some flexibility. There's no reason you can't put the block anywhere that's convenient. You can put it next to the driver or you can put it in the fixture and run the one, bigger wire, back to the controller.
TheFishMan65
New member
Yes, I ordered one and it appears to work. Waiting for access to a PAR meter to verify, but have no reason not to believe it works. There is a thread around here somewhere but all it really said was it can be done and there are 3 sensors. Two need power and just amplify the signal (and cost more).
SQ-110 Daylight is what I think you want (they also have electric reference). Multiply the millivolts by 5 to get PAR ($139 IIRC).
Then one as a gain of 2.5 so multiply by 1 ($189 IIRC).
And another has a gain 5 5 divide by 2 ($189 IIRC).
Standard shipping is $15.
SQ-110 Daylight is what I think you want (they also have electric reference). Multiply the millivolts by 5 to get PAR ($139 IIRC).
Then one as a gain of 2.5 so multiply by 1 ($189 IIRC).
And another has a gain 5 5 divide by 2 ($189 IIRC).
Standard shipping is $15.
TheFishMan65
New member
If I Remember Correctly
They read about 10% different. Since we are trying to emulate the suns it made sense to me to get sunlight. Did you tell them the application or only that you wanted par from LEDs.
From http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/quantum/differentlight.html
I am not sure it really matters. When folks here have bought PAR meters what sensor do they get? You should (I should have) gotten the same one. I didn't think about it at the time. I bought for our club and no one corrected me.
This thread also said sunlight - doesn't mean it is right or wrong. Just another point.
They read about 10% different. Since we are trying to emulate the suns it made sense to me to get sunlight. Did you tell them the application or only that you wanted par from LEDs.
From http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/quantum/differentlight.html
I am not sure it really matters. When folks here have bought PAR meters what sensor do they get? You should (I should have) gotten the same one. I didn't think about it at the time. I bought for our club and no one corrected me.
This thread also said sunlight - doesn't mean it is right or wrong. Just another point.
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