DIY LEDs - The write-up

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I just got Cutter prices for 500 mixed LEDs (0no limit on type). It Australian Dollars which is pretty close ($5.99 vs %5.97)
XR-E Cool White AUD4.75 ea
XR-E Neutral White AUD4.75 ea
XR-E Royal Blue AUD5.60 ea
XR-E Blue AUD4.95 ea
XP-G Cool White AUD5.47 (0 bin, very cold)
XP-G Neutral White AUD5.50 ea
XP-E Royal Blue AUD3.43 ea
XP-E Blue AUD2.94 ea
XM-L Cool White AUD7.13 ea - no lenses available

Lenses for the above.
Basic optics approx AUD1.00 ea
 
I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24

The LEDs in a tube with fans works well for me. Over my 75g I have 3 tubes of 24 LEDs each. The LEDs are mounted on a 1/8" aluminum bar with Arctic Alumina adhesive, with small black heatsinks on the opposite side of the bar also with adhesive. That slides into the fluorescent tube carriers (from Lowes), with push/pull 12v ducted fans on each end (40mm computer fans). I have one tube with 24 RB XR-Es, and the other two tubes have 12 CW XP-G and 12 RB XR-E each. Plenty of light for my 75g, and wonderful color.

I didn't want the typical 'massive heatsink' approach due to my custom canopy, and I like the ability to just wipe down the plastic tube to remove any salt accumulation. Another benefit of the tube is placement - I have one tube right at the front of the tank angled back slightly, and it illuminates the front sides of my corals way better than the MH did. And after all, the front sides of the corals is what I'm looking at!

Some people have complained that cool white don't give you the ability to render reds and oranges, but maybe that is a difference between the cool white XR-E and the newer XP-G (or just that I got a bin that is slightly warmer).
 
Thx grim- I think I can do a step better on the price for 2x1x1/8" thick- On amazon I can get 2 36" sections (=~18 4" sections) of it for $36 shipped.

What about this from HomeDepot for $10.56/96 inches?

Too thin? (1/16")
Too short? (0.9 in high)
Or wrong type of aluminum? (IDK what type)
 
that might be too narrow to place a star on. It is either .75 (description) or .6 (specification) wide. The .75 might do, but I don't think .6 would work. Wonder what it really is. Because the shape is good.
 
OK, assume .75 the stars are 20mm or .787 inches anybody remember if that is edge to edge or point to point?

[EDIT]
According to dealextreme (I just remembered they have a picture) it is edge to edge. So there will be some hanging over. Possible more than .037 because the corners are going to be rounded. IMHO you would probably be OK.
 
I'm not sure I understand your actual set up here.. Your description eludes me. Please try it again.

Okay, so I have 96 XP-E Blues and 72 XP-G whites to work with in a parallel build.

I'm looking for a way to drive these in parallel using the HLG Meanwells that dim completely (or at least almost completely). My proposed layout split both colors of LED's into two groups so a total of 4 HLG150-48B's would be used.

Each HLG with blue LED's would have 48 LED's in 4 parallel strings of 12 running at 800mA. Two of them would total my 96 blue LED's

Each HLG with White LED's would have 36 LED's in 3 parallel strings of 12 running at 1000mA. The two of them would equal my 72 white LED's.

Would this work?
 
Believe kcress first posted this fact. The HLG series of drivers only dims to about 50% of the drive current. So dawn will be like when you were a kid and mom came in and opened the blinds at 7:00 in the morning :)
 
Believe kcress first posted this fact. The HLG series of drivers only dims to about 50% of the drive current. So dawn will be like when you were a kid and mom came in and opened the blinds at 7:00 in the morning :)


No no no! Only the 240 and 320's would only dim to 50% the 185 dims way down, as do all the ones below the 185.
 
Okay, so I have 96 XP-E Blues and 72 XP-G whites to work with in a parallel build.

I'm looking for a way to drive these in parallel using the HLG Meanwells that dim completely (or at least almost completely). My proposed layout split both colors of LED's into two groups so a total of 4 HLG150-48B's would be used.

Each HLG with blue LED's would have 48 LED's in 4 parallel strings of 12 running at 800mA. Two of them would total my 96 blue LED's

Each HLG with White LED's would have 36 LED's in 3 parallel strings of 12 running at 1000mA. The two of them would equal my 72 white LED's.

Would this work?

Yes! Thanks. Sounds like a great plan. Now if you can just lay hands on those pesky HLGs. :lmao:
 
Believe kcress first posted this fact. The HLG series of drivers only dims to about 50% of the drive current. So dawn will be like when you were a kid and mom came in and opened the blinds at 7:00 in the morning :)

Actually I found the post and he's indicated that the HLG dims fully up until the HLG240 and HLG320. Those don't dim fully.
 
Actually I found the post and he's indicated that the HLG dims fully up until the HLG240 and HLG320. Those don't dim fully.

Fully dimmable 240s & 320s have to be in the works. It makes no sence not to. I`m going to call and ask why...i`m a pain like that. Maybe if they hear of enough interest in fully dimmable versions...:hammer:
 
Powergate provided me with a quote for various MW drivers including HLGs. They seemed to indicate there would be no problem supplying though it could take up to 10 weeks to fill my order. Since the other drivers were ELN and LPC I'm guessing the high lead time would be due to the HLGs.
 
well below is the list of everything that i think i am going to need for my LED lighting system over my 125g tank let me know what you guys think, if i need anything else or more of anything. the fans to cool the units i will get later on and the wiring i have plenty of at my house just not sure what gauge would be best to use. thanks for your input

Shopping Cart
Rapid LED Items

Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs
4.25-23HS-24DT Drilled and Tapped 4.25" x 23" Heat Sink for 24 LEDs $50.00 x2= $100.00

Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver
ELN-60-48D Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver
$34.00 x4= $136.00

CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED on Star
RB-425-CREE CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED on Star
$5.75 x32=$184

CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
CW-107-CREE CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
$5.75 x16=$92

80 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
80-XRE-LENS 80 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
$1.00 x12= $12.00

60 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
60-XRE-LENS 60 Degree CREE XR-E Lens/Optics (white)
$1.00 x36= $36.00

10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer
$3.50 x4= $14.00

3-Prong Power Cord
$2.50 x4= $10.00

10V AC Adapter
$10.00 x4= $40.00

Sub-Total $624.00

Shipping: insurance $6
Rapid LED ESTIMATED TOTAL $630.00

since coming up what i thought was everything i was going to need, i have been told that i do not need 4 10v ac adapters, is that true?

also i was told i should incorporate some xp-g neutral whites so i have been thinking of making the whites row like this for each heat sink (this will be the middle row of the three) W W NW W W NW W W

any advice would be great appreciated
 
would i be able to run 16 cree xr-e RB on one driver to make it so two drivers run each unit and one driver runs each color bulb?
 
Powergate provided me with a quote for various MW drivers including HLGs. They seemed to indicate there would be no problem supplying though it could take up to 10 weeks to fill my order. Since the other drivers were ELN and LPC I'm guessing the high lead time would be due to the HLGs.


Well that's something that they will provide them. I suppose you could work on finishing everything else in the interim.
 
Kcress, could you answer this for me:
I am doing a large parallel build and was wondering which is the best technique for combining the LED strings at the end of each string.
1) run a seperate wire back from each string, combine in a terminal block and then bridge together back to the MW driver. (like the diagram that has been posted in this thread with the black background)
or
2) combine the LED strings at each end and just run one wire back to the MW driver.
Does it make a difference?
Thanks
 
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