DIY LEDs - The write-up

[mseepman]

Is there any reason why people don't use the LPF-60D-48's in their smaller builds rather than the ELN? They are slightly more money but they have active PFC and are fully dimmable. Maybe I'm missing something?

http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/LPF-60D-spec.pdf

 

[maddog2002]

If mix XP-G with XP-E in one string , what max. drive current needs be set for ELN-60-48D?

 

[mseepman]

XP-E max's out at 1000mA while XP-G is 1500...so I would say you have to set everything based upon the lowest one. That is assuming you want to run your XP-E's maxed out...which not many people do.

 

[widmer]

I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Is there any reason why people don't use the LPF-60D-48's in their smaller builds rather than the ELN? They are slightly more money but they have active PFC and are fully dimmable. Maybe I'm missing something?

http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/LPF-60D-spec.pdf

They didn't exist back when the reefkeeping LED craze took off - that's why you don't see them used. Plus, it's probably arguable that in a really small build, the active PFC doesn't provide a huge benefit.

I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24

ALL aluminum is an alloy. I don't know that there's a significant difference from one to another, and a sink that big will likely be near overkill anyways (2" vertical legs will provide a lot of good convection cooling). Check local metal supply shops, I bet you'll find exactly what you need.

 

[widmer]

Thanks DWZM on the info. As far as overkill goes - The LEDs will be spaced either 1" or 0.5" apart depending on what I do, so maybe not overkill :lol:. They will be enclosed in a tube with fans pushing air through, so hopefully temps will stay down.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Thanks DWZM on the info. As far as overkill goes - The LEDs will be spaced either 1" or 0.5" apart depending on what I do, so maybe not overkill :lol:. They will be enclosed in a tube with fans pushing air through, so hopefully temps will stay down.

Check speedy metals online if you can't find what you want locally. I got 6 4" sections of 2x1 1/8th thick channel for like 60 bux shipped.

 

[widmer]

Thx grim- I think I can do a step better on the price for 2x1x1/8" thick- On amazon I can get 2 36" sections (=~18 4" sections) of it for $36 shipped.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Amazon sells some interesting sizes. .23 thick, 9 inches wide with 3 1/4 inch legs. That there is a hunk of aluminum

 

[kcress]

Is there any reason why people don't use the LPF-60D-48's in their smaller builds rather than the ELN? They are slightly more money but they have active PFC and are fully dimmable. Maybe I'm missing something?

http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/LPF-60D-spec.pdf

No reason not to. Those would be excellent. You could use fist fulls of those and you wouldn't hear me worrying about harmonics wreaking havoc. Inrush could still trip your breakers once in a while if you fire them up every morning but that wouldn't bother me since it shouldn't happen often.

Wish I'd seen those before I bought my Ripple Monster CEN. Course they're probably not even available. I notice the data sheet has preliminary scrawled across it - just like the HLG320.

 

[kcress]

So given that the HLG-320's aren't out and can't fully dim...I've had to come up with another mix of LED's and Drivers.

Would this work?
Two groups of 48 XP-E RB's hooked up in 4 parallel strings of 12 running on 1 x HLG-150-48B's per group @800mA
Two groups of 36 XP-G Whites hooked up in 3 parallel strings of 12 running on 1 x HLG-150-48B's per group @1000mA

Again, assume that I put the right fuses, resistors and terminal blocks in place and balance the LED's.

I'm not sure I understand your actual set up here.. Your description eludes me. Please try it again.

 

[kcress]

I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24

The alloy makes essentially NO difference in heat transfer.

6063 is GOOD (not excellent) on salt water corrosion.
6063 is FAIR (not good) on workability. That's for cracking on bending cold.
6063 is FAIR (not good) on machining. You should be able to drill it with no major problems.

 

[DeePDiSHeD]

6063 has better corrosion resistance than 6061. Its surface finish is also smoother than 6061.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I just got Cutter prices for 500 mixed LEDs (0no limit on type). It Australian Dollars which is pretty close ($5.99 vs %5.97)
XR-E Cool White AUD4.75 ea
XR-E Neutral White AUD4.75 ea
XR-E Royal Blue AUD5.60 ea
XR-E Blue AUD4.95 ea
XP-G Cool White AUD5.47 (0 bin, very cold)
XP-G Neutral White AUD5.50 ea
XP-E Royal Blue AUD3.43 ea
XP-E Blue AUD2.94 ea
XM-L Cool White AUD7.13 ea - no lenses available

Lenses for the above.
Basic optics approx AUD1.00 ea

 

[Obi-dad]

I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24

The LEDs in a tube with fans works well for me. Over my 75g I have 3 tubes of 24 LEDs each. The LEDs are mounted on a 1/8" aluminum bar with Arctic Alumina adhesive, with small black heatsinks on the opposite side of the bar also with adhesive. That slides into the fluorescent tube carriers (from Lowes), with push/pull 12v ducted fans on each end (40mm computer fans). I have one tube with 24 RB XR-Es, and the other two tubes have 12 CW XP-G and 12 RB XR-E each. Plenty of light for my 75g, and wonderful color.

I didn't want the typical 'massive heatsink' approach due to my custom canopy, and I like the ability to just wipe down the plastic tube to remove any salt accumulation. Another benefit of the tube is placement - I have one tube right at the front of the tank angled back slightly, and it illuminates the front sides of my corals way better than the MH did. And after all, the front sides of the corals is what I'm looking at!

Some people have complained that cool white don't give you the ability to render reds and oranges, but maybe that is a difference between the cool white XR-E and the newer XP-G (or just that I got a bin that is slightly warmer).

 

[jpccusa]

Thx grim- I think I can do a step better on the price for 2x1x1/8" thick- On amazon I can get 2 36" sections (=~18 4" sections) of it for $36 shipped.

What about this from HomeDepot for $10.56/96 inches?

Too thin? (1/16")
Too short? (0.9 in high)
Or wrong type of aluminum? (IDK what type)

 

[TheFishMan65]

that might be too narrow to place a star on. It is either .75 (description) or .6 (specification) wide. The .75 might do, but I don't think .6 would work. Wonder what it really is. Because the shape is good.

 

[jpccusa]

I will go to HD this weekend and take measurements myself (unless someone beats me to it).

As the manufacture's specification says (page 4), it should be .75 (3/4)

 

[TheFishMan65]

OK, assume .75 the stars are 20mm or .787 inches anybody remember if that is edge to edge or point to point?

[EDIT]
According to dealextreme (I just remembered they have a picture) it is edge to edge. So there will be some hanging over. Possible more than .037 because the corners are going to be rounded. IMHO you would probably be OK.

 

[mseepman]

I'm not sure I understand your actual set up here.. Your description eludes me. Please try it again.

Okay, so I have 96 XP-E Blues and 72 XP-G whites to work with in a parallel build.

I'm looking for a way to drive these in parallel using the HLG Meanwells that dim completely (or at least almost completely). My proposed layout split both colors of LED's into two groups so a total of 4 HLG150-48B's would be used.

Each HLG with blue LED's would have 48 LED's in 4 parallel strings of 12 running at 800mA. Two of them would total my 96 blue LED's

Each HLG with White LED's would have 36 LED's in 3 parallel strings of 12 running at 1000mA. The two of them would equal my 72 white LED's.

Would this work?