DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Not sure how many people this applies to, but here's the first XM-L optic I've come across:

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http://www.illuminationmachines.com/products.php?id=8

It's 7 degree FWHM... So probably doesn't apply to most of you :lol: but I'm sure Carlco will be delivering any minute.
 
Huh.. A reflector. Not an optic.. I wonder how efficient it is. I always worry about the reflector oxidizing or getting dirty. But, they should keep the die a lot cooler than typical optics.
 
Wouldn't it be more efficient if anything? With a glass or plastic lens, the light has to partition into the medium before it will hit the interface which redirects it - this includes the light coming off the front which was already going the right direction to begin with. With the reflector this step is bypassed.

Let's not call the LED reflectors guilty by association because reflectors are what fluorescents and halides use as well :lol: . The huge difference here is that there is only a single interface for the light waves before they're going where they news to go, while with the fluoros etc we have to attempt to collect all the light and keep it from running back into the tube not very successfully...
 
I mentioned this in another thread but I got an e-mail from Carlco a couple of weeks ago saying there XM-L optic testing was in its final stages and the optics should be listed on their website in the next week or so. I don't have details on FWHM angles but I would suggest the first optics to be released will be the more common 12 degree optics or similar. It might be a while before we see anything in the 40+ degree range.
 
So, in taking my first "bite" of this elephant and given the math that I've seen all through this thread (thanks so much Kcress), would the following setup work...
96 XP-E RB hooked up in 8 parallel strings of 12 running on an HLG-320H-48B at 800mA
72 XP-G Whites hooked up in 6 strings of 12 running on another HLG-320H-48B at 1000mA
Please assume that I will get the fuses, resistors terminal blocks and cooling done correctly (as you can see, I believe in miracles, lol)
In looking at the data-sheet for this driver (http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/HLG-320H-spec.pdf) can I assume a controller with the right 1-10V module will be able to dim these?

So given that the HLG-320's aren't out and can't fully dim...I've had to come up with another mix of LED's and Drivers.

Would this work?
Two groups of 48 XP-E RB's hooked up in 4 parallel strings of 12 running on 1 x HLG-150-48B's per group @800mA
Two groups of 36 XP-G Whites hooked up in 3 parallel strings of 12 running on 1 x HLG-150-48B's per group @1000mA

Again, assume that I put the right fuses, resistors and terminal blocks in place and balance the LED's.
 
XP-E max's out at 1000mA while XP-G is 1500...so I would say you have to set everything based upon the lowest one. That is assuming you want to run your XP-E's maxed out...which not many people do.
 
Is there any reason why people don't use the LPF-60D-48's in their smaller builds rather than the ELN? They are slightly more money but they have active PFC and are fully dimmable. Maybe I'm missing something?

http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/LPF-60D-spec.pdf

They didn't exist back when the reefkeeping LED craze took off - that's why you don't see them used. Plus, it's probably arguable that in a really small build, the active PFC doesn't provide a huge benefit.


I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24

ALL aluminum is an alloy. I don't know that there's a significant difference from one to another, and a sink that big will likely be near overkill anyways (2" vertical legs will provide a lot of good convection cooling). Check local metal supply shops, I bet you'll find exactly what you need.
 
Thanks DWZM on the info. As far as overkill goes - The LEDs will be spaced either 1" or 0.5" apart depending on what I do, so maybe not overkill :lol:. They will be enclosed in a tube with fans pushing air through, so hopefully temps will stay down.
 
Thanks DWZM on the info. As far as overkill goes - The LEDs will be spaced either 1" or 0.5" apart depending on what I do, so maybe not overkill :lol:. They will be enclosed in a tube with fans pushing air through, so hopefully temps will stay down.

Check speedy metals online if you can't find what you want locally. I got 6 4" sections of 2x1 1/8th thick channel for like 60 bux shipped.
 
Thx grim- I think I can do a step better on the price for 2x1x1/8" thick- On amazon I can get 2 36" sections (=~18 4" sections) of it for $36 shipped.
 
Is there any reason why people don't use the LPF-60D-48's in their smaller builds rather than the ELN? They are slightly more money but they have active PFC and are fully dimmable. Maybe I'm missing something?

http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/LPF-60D-spec.pdf

No reason not to. Those would be excellent. You could use fist fulls of those and you wouldn't hear me worrying about harmonics wreaking havoc. Inrush could still trip your breakers once in a while if you fire them up every morning but that wouldn't bother me since it shouldn't happen often.

Wish I'd seen those before I bought my Ripple Monster CEN. Course they're probably not even available. I notice the data sheet has preliminary scrawled across it - just like the HLG320.
 
So given that the HLG-320's aren't out and can't fully dim...I've had to come up with another mix of LED's and Drivers.

Would this work?
Two groups of 48 XP-E RB's hooked up in 4 parallel strings of 12 running on 1 x HLG-150-48B's per group @800mA
Two groups of 36 XP-G Whites hooked up in 3 parallel strings of 12 running on 1 x HLG-150-48B's per group @1000mA

Again, assume that I put the right fuses, resistors and terminal blocks in place and balance the LED's.

I'm not sure I understand your actual set up here.. Your description eludes me. Please try it again.
 
I've been searching for aluminum U channel which is 1" wide with 2" legs, and the only one I can find is made out of an aluminum alloy of 6063. Does anyone know if the fact that it is an alloy will noticeably decrease its ability to function as a heat sink?

Here's the product page: http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-6063...4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1296084093&sr=1-24


The alloy makes essentially NO difference in heat transfer.

6063 is GOOD (not excellent) on salt water corrosion.
6063 is FAIR (not good) on workability. That's for cracking on bending cold.
6063 is FAIR (not good) on machining. You should be able to drill it with no major problems.
 
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