DIY LEDs - The write-up

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OK, gotcha. It's tough to compare spectral results that aren't measured under the same conditions, but it does strike me that the LEDs are probably producing a narrower wavelength of color than a T5 lamp.

Which can be a good thing, or a bad thing.

I am going heavy RB's and throwing in quite a few warm whites to go along with the cool white XP-G's to try to spread out the spectrum more. I suspect I'll be doing a lot of LED changes before I get what I am looking for.
 
By the way, ordered my white LED's from LED supply Monday, got them yesterday, 5.00 shipping so if you need LED's fast they seem to be a good option.
 
Grim, since you're so keen on colors, you might want to try to get your hands on a few different color bins of RB so you can mix/match.

The fact that Cree bins them in DWL bins that are only 5 nm wide seems to hint that they do produce a very narrow spectrum as indicated in their documentation.
 
That is what I am going to do. I am going to order the 3 or 4 different bins for the RB and then hook them all up and shine them on some white paper to see if I can tell the difference. I like my Actinic but I also have one of the more purple Actinic on my tank on with T5's and I just feel like the purple just adds a little something to it.

So the plan for me is to have 1/2 white, 1/4 blue Actinic, 1/4 purple Actinic. Right now I am thinking the both the blue and purple will be on the same eln-60-48D but I might split them out and put the blue and purple on its own 24D instead. That way I have the most control.
 
Grim, since you're so keen on colors, you might want to try to get your hands on a few different color bins of RB so you can mix/match.

The fact that Cree bins them in DWL bins that are only 5 nm wide seems to hint that they do produce a very narrow spectrum as indicated in their documentation.

I need to coordinate with Stu for the next cutter order, I'd like to play with those different Royal blues, I would guess just going with the highest and lowest bins 50/50 would probably be the way to go.

I suspect some of the reason for all those different colors are probably a matter of results than choice. I mean can you really see the difference between 455nm and 450?
 
I need to coordinate with Stu for the next cutter order, I'd like to play with those different Royal blues, I would guess just going with the highest and lowest bins 50/50 would probably be the way to go.

I suspect some of the reason for all those different colors are probably a matter of results than choice. I mean can you really see the difference between 455nm and 450?

I placed an order with cutter two days ago, and it said some or all are on back order. Waiting for a reply as to what was on back order. Wish there website was a little more user friendly. Anyone have a good contact for them it usually takes them two or three days to reply for me.
 
This has to be one of the best threads I've read in a long time. Wondering if I could pose a few questions that have undoubtedly been asked at least a hundred times.

It looks like my new electric payment is going to be ~$500/mo so I need to start cutting consumption. I am currently running 6 x 60" VHO 454 bulbs for supplementation to my 3 x 250W MH's. The tank measures 72"x36"x27" so spread is an issue.

The tanks is mostly SPS so I am hesitant to replace the MH's just yet. However, I want to remove the 840W of supplemental light that run on the outside of my lighting rack (see below) and replace with a DIY LED array that will give me similar color and hopefully generate some PAR.

I am planning to go with the CREE XR-E Royal Blue's but am struggling with how many to run to get good supplementation when running with MH's. Basically, I plan to make 2fixtures, each measuring 5"x60" (one for the front and one for the back). Should I include whites as well? Finally, would optics be advisable or no? If so, any ideas on which angle?

DSCF9911.jpg
 
From what we're seeing you can cut your lighting power by at least 50% by just going to LEDs. With judicial focus and selective pointing you can probably shave off more yet...

I would skip the MH entirely.
 
OK, here's my latest contraption.

I built a 9 Gallon frag tank that sits on the shelf above my sump.
It is fed by one of the DT overflows above and 12X XP-G R5s.
No blues yet, but when I build the splash guard I will leave room for one more row on each side.

This is just the 12X XP-Gs with the 43 deg Optics:

my_new_frag_pendant_lit.jpg


Here is the fixture:

my_new_frag_pendant_fixture.jpg


And here is running in the ceiling of my basement:

my_new_frag_pendant_installed.jpg


Currently it has no fans but I am trying to get some pics before my camera leaves for spring break ;-)

Stu
 
Rellyrelly nice Stu! Those optics.. I'd sure love a shot of a single one pointed at a wall or ceiling. I want to use the Gs but not if the optics are still lousy as my fixture will have to be several feet above the tank.

You're sure getting some great mileage out of that U channel!!
 
Tagging along... Only took me about a week or two at work reading all 185ish pages...

Thanks to all of you I'm eventually going to drop more money into my tank (like this never happens) I need to replace my T5 bulbs sooner rather than later on my 55 and I figured why not put that $100-$125 towards a new DIY LED fixture :D

I'm also trying to ditch the 55 and go with a 40B because it theoretically would be cheaper because I could prob get away with around 36 LEDs compared to 48 but I'm having trouble figuring out the heatsink sizes so I was wondering if I could get some outside opinions as this is driving me crazy.

I was thinking because of the depth of the tank I would need to use three heat sinks to cover the depth of the tank but now I'm not sure... So what would you use for heatsinks on a 40B that would prob have 36 LED's?
 
From what we're seeing you can cut your lighting power by at least 50% by just going to LEDs. With judicial focus and selective pointing you can probably shave off more yet...

I would skip the MH entirely.

Ultimately I would love to switch out the MH's. However I am still not convinced I can duplicate my current PAR levels with LED's alone. Right now, I get ~800 at the water's surface, 5-600 mid tank and 250-300 on the sand in the my primary growth areas.
 
kcress,

"You're sure getting some great mileage out of that U channel!! "

Yeah, after hauling around about 200 feet of it for 20 years I finally found a use for it ;-)

the 16 foot long sticks were great for shaking the snow from my trees, pulling dead branches out, and cleaning off my satellite dish ;-)

I even used 3X pieces ~5 ft. long to protect the front edge of my sump from leaning on it.

The last build for the LFS was the first time I actually had to buy some as I'm down to short sticks.

3_LED_strips_XPG.jpg


Stu
 
I am still not convinced I can duplicate my current PAR levels with LED's alone.


Well.. I understand the hesitancy but if you'd read all zillion pages of the DIY LED builds you'll see that LEDs can blow MHs out of the water in PAR. You can get PARs vastly higher than MH can produce. In fact it's becoming clear that you can easily over-light corals if you're not careful. We are finding that you should use the dimming abilities of LED drivers to work up the brightness, over many days, to prevent bleaching. LEDs are the only viable way to punch to the bottom of deep tanks. The optics allow beam collimations that can hang together for greater depths than are available with MH's point source.

But one of the real beauties of LED is that with a deeper tank you actually control the light placement. You could run different optics or a higher number of LEDs focused on the deeper regions while running wider or fewer LEDs directed at the shallower areas. (Something completely lacking in MH's ability.)

I'm sure careful planning and use of LEDs would allow you to probably drop your system's electrical bill to something around 1/4 of MH's.

Let me try to list the saving paths:
1) You get the approximately 50% straight off.
2) You can light specifically and hence not over-light.
3) You can run dawn/dusk profiles.
4) Almost no IR is projected into the water.
5) Chiller or A/C loads will drop substantially.
6) If you are billed in tiers then the saved kWhrs can be the most expensive ones you are normally paying for.

As for initial expenditure der has run down the payback several times. Yes! Up front costs are steep, but the payback hovers around 1.5 years. Any business would fall all over itself for that kind of payback.

T'wer me? I'd be building LEDs then sell your MHs while they're still in good shape and others haven't seen the light. Cashing in on your MHs would probably slash your payback period to just months. :dance:
 
So I picked up some really cool antique flashlights which were made to fit batteries that aren't even manufactured anymore. I was going to try to drop an XP-G into each flashlight and fit some AA & D cell batteries into them.

Anyways, can someone clarify this inconsistency for me:

The documentation at LEDSupply.com says that the XP-G has a max drive current of 1000 mA, whereas cutter.com.au says that they can go up to 1500 mA. Basically, I'm trying to decide which little micro drivers I want to pick up from dealextreme, and I've currently got my eyes on this: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885

But only having had experience with XR-E's, I wonder if I would be better off pushing the XP-G's at like 800 mA with these http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

Any thoughts?
 
The spec from Cree says that due to testing results they were increasing the max current to 1500. The increase is retroactive since the mfg was the same.
 
I placed an order with cutter two days ago, and it said some or all are on back order. Waiting for a reply as to what was on back order. Wish there website was a little more user friendly. Anyone have a good contact for them it usually takes them two or three days to reply for me.

If you don't already have it, mark.riley@cutter.com.au is the one I used and had a good response. Remember they are on a way different time zone, so it may take a day or so, but really its 3 days or something like that. My transactions (ordered twice) went smooth as glass with them though.
 
If you don't already have it, mark.riley@cutter.com.au is the one I used and had a good response. Remember they are on a way different time zone, so it may take a day or so, but really its 3 days or something like that. My transactions (ordered twice) went smooth as glass with them though.

I emailed Joni on wed, and Mark yesterday, and still no response. I really want to know what is on back order, because if it will be in soon I may up my order.
 
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