DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Not if you wire them in series, considering the "typical" maximum current rating for 24AWG wire is 3.5 amps. With a bank of 6 led's you would be pulling 4.2 amps if running at 700mah each. I would go with 22AWG minimum, preferably 20AWG. You could use the same wire for everything considering each bank/strip would be wired parallel with the drivers/power source.
 
I am planning on doing them in series. I'll go back to the store tomorrow and get the proper one. So what exactly am I telling the guy to give me? lol

And I am buying this type of solder, its rosin so I assume its good to go
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...zomatic%2BRosin%2BCore%2BSolder.jsp?locale=en

or should I use this one:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...zomatic%2BRosin%2BCore%2BSolder.jsp?locale=en

I also looked up a few stores around here for tinning and only saw this:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...nzomatic%2B8oz%2BTinning%2BFlux.jsp?locale=en

Is this ok?
 
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Wow, I just made my first LED light last night. It looks incredible and was so easy, thanks to all the great instructions on this and Taqpol's threads. Now I'm really motivated to put LED on both of my tanks. I have three questions to help me finish:

1) I'm using the rapidled kit with Mean well drivers. I've read that using too many drivers (~8) can cause issues with wires overheating. Does this apply to drivers on separate circuits? I.e. is 6 drivers each on two different tanks a problem?

2) I want to secure the wires leading from the LED to the driver onto my heatsink so that they don't flex at the LED solder joint. I assume that I can just use any old epoxy here?

3) I don't see people grounding their heatsinks. Is this because they are low voltage DC? Is there any reason for me NOT to run a ground wire to it? Also, the Mean wells are non-dimmable so I don't see a way to ground the driver either.

Thanks. I cannot believe how amazing my tank looked when I tested my first light!
 
kcress said:
If you are running a serial strings of LEDs, that wire is fine for the fixed wiring between mounted LEDs.
Click to expand...

The wires are still pulling 4.2amps aren't they? 700mah per diode * 6 diodes in series. I would double up the power rating on anything electrical, especially do it yourself projects. The wife wouldn't be too happy about a burned down house from trying to save a few hundred bucks.
 
Dustin, you've got it backwards. Series means the voltage is additive. Current stays the same. The wires between LEDs are carrying the driver's rated current (700mA in this case).
 
When they are in series the same 700 ma goes through each LED. If the LEDs where in parallel then the currents would add up.

Series the voltage adds up the current stays the same.
Parallel the current adds up and the voltage stays the same.
[EDIT]
For those following all the LED threads I should have bet :)
 
TheFishMan65 said:
When they are in series the same 700 ma goes through each LED. If the LEDs where in parallel then the currents would add up.

Series the voltage adds up the current stays the same.
Parallel the current adds up and the voltage stays the same.
[EDIT]
For those following all the LED threads I should have bet :)
Click to expand...

He beat you by a minute :)
 
I stand corrected, the voltage increases but the current does in fact stay the same. Gotta love electricity, it never seems to work in a logical way.
 
Would this help?

Would this help?

Before I waste any more time, how many of you long time followers think something like this will help cut down on some of the repeated questions? I have read this thread and several others. I will try and summarize, because there is a lot of reading. Please realize a lot of this is from memory and my opinions so it could be wrong. Please point out any discussion points and I will try and correct them. I can post the summary periodically so that it is easy to find (what every ten pages?). And thank you to all of the people (too numerous to count) that have supplied this information. And now have even more to read.

So if you are still interested in doing LEDs I recommend looking at them as well:
Related threads that might be useful:
There are numerous other threads relating to builds, but I think these cover most of it. If you think I missed an important thread (highly possible there are a lot of threads out there), please let me know.

LEDs
Which LED
The whole reason most of got into this light scheme was for efficiency. Having said that there have been a lot of question like will this LED work. The thing to look for is efficiency and spectrum. If the spectrum is what you want (matches the bulbs in there now) then you are fine. Most people have picked the CREE led because of its efficiency of over 100 lumen per watt. If the LED you are looking at is not over 100 lumens per watt you probably don't want it.

How Many
The current recommendation is 1 LED for every 10-20 square inches of tank surface. Fish only could get by with the lower count, and a coral tank would need to be near the higher end. However if you take advantage of LEDs ability to focus corals could be spot lighted and cut down on the number of LEDs required.

Color Mix
Currently the general recommendation is:
  • 50/50 for white XR-E and royal blue XR-E
  • 40/60 for white XP-G and royal blue XR-E
    [\LIST]
    If I remember correctly this is 14k. If you want a bluer tank you more royal blue. Before you ask, there is no XP-G in royal blue.

    Ultra Violet LEDs
    There is no cheap source, but it is not believed that are needed.

    HEAT SINK
    Types
    Mounting

    DRIVERS
    Meanwell
    BuckPuck

    LENSES
 
Anyone considered DIY drivers?
I havent found anything yet. Still reading.
I am talking to a reader on another smaller forum. He did his own array with drivers for about $2 a peice, and they have a dimmer. I can cut/paste some of our conversations if any of you are interested.

Since this is a DIY project, makes sense that you should be able ot DIY something that is not just cost effective, but also equal to, if not superior to paying $20+ a pop for.
 
:) that musta been posted while I was in the middle of posting my query :)

i got several forums up atm, so my posts are a bit long in the making, :thumbsup:

thx
 
cmbspd said:
1) I'm using the rapidled kit with Mean well drivers. I've read that using too many drivers (~8) can cause issues with wires overheating. Does this apply to drivers on separate circuits? I.e. is 6 drivers each on two different tanks a problem?
Click to expand...
I see this as the limit in the driver thread - confirmation? denial?

If 8 is the limit I assume 6 is safe?

This thread sure has come along way since inception - thanks everyone, even I managed to create a test light :D
 
The info presented on that page is not (IMHO) sufficient to determine answers to your questions. We can speculate, but - hey - it would be speculation.

In general, the question "does this commercial product beat DIY?" needs to be asked within a very specific frame of reference with explicit criteria. Most commercial fixtures are designed for a wide audience looking for a "smooth" transition from conventional reef lighting, which leaves a lot to be desired (again, IMHO). Besides the point that many (but not all) commercial fixtures use vastly sub-par LEDs, drivers, control methods, etc.
 
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