DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Meant to actinic as opposed to UV. The NW might be broad enough spectrum, the WW have a lot of red, a 50/50 mix of those and cool white would be a whole lot too red from what I can see, I would assume NW/WW would be even more red.
 
Ugh, of course you guys start talking heavily about color peaks the day after I place my order...

I picked up 1:1 XR-E CW and RB's which is somewhat of a proven ratio... Now Im thinking I may have to add some sort of red supplement in.. luckily I have a lot of space that I could probably throw them in there without optics to pick up a little slack.
 
Can I use a CAT6 ethernet cable to wire the LED strips to the drivers? FYI, CAT6 is made 23g solid copper wires instead of the typical stranded wires.
 
Can I use a CAT6 ethernet cable to wire the LED strips to the drivers? FYI, CAT6 is made 23g solid copper wires instead of the typical stranded wires.

Im not sure what page it was on but I did see someone else having success with this. Solid core is going to be more difficult to solder, however.
 
Still wondering if anyone has seen these.

Im pretty sure cutter has what you're looking for.

http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XRE

scroll about 1/3 of the way down, in the first drop down you will want to select 20mm star mcpcb, leave the second drop down blank, and then pick Q3 (the brightest Neutral, I think) from the radio buttons, leave the rest blank.

If someone else who has ordered from cutter could tell me for sure, but that looks right to me.
 
We're limited by what the LED manufacturers produce. But that doesn't mean that the available wavelengths align sufficiently with what the organisms we're trying to support want and need. We do know that T5 and MH work really well supporting reefs. IMO, I believe we need to work toward making our LED builds replicate the conditions created by lighting that we KNOW works. Keep my PAR example in mind.

Thanks very much for bringing some data to the party. When this "issue" first came up about a year ago, I tried to contact some of the more biologically-minded resources we have in the reef community, to get some answers about what spectral qualities we needed for "good" performance (growth, looks) in a reef tank, and whether or not the obvious differences in spectra from LEDs and other forms of reef lighting mattered.

It was basically a dead end. I got frustrated at the lack of solid information. Then, I had an epiphany - in the absence of a clear direction from the scientific field, we are essentially doing the experiments ourselves.

First, we need to define our criteria. What are we after? Matching natural lighting? Best growth? Best color? How do other tank conditions impact these criteria?

In the end, I'd be willing to bet that most hobbyists are after some magical combination of growth and color. Looking at results of LED builds so far, we have absolutely got the growth thing nailed. People are able to grow every kind of coral imaginable under the right intensity of LED light, with the "common" RB/CW blends.

That leaves color. For better or worse, color is subjective in our hobby. If a coral is pink in one tank, and it turns orange in the other tank, there is no black and white answer about which state is better - some might not be bothered, some might like the orange state, others might like the pink state.

Take that out a step. If a coral is pink under MH, and it turns orange under LEDs, does that mean the LED tank is "wrong" or "bad?" Again, a question we cannot answer, since it's clearly a matter of preference. In some cases there may be some obvious cut and dry examples, i.e. corals that are nice under T5 but all turn brown under LEDs. But, I don't think the typical LED rig has any inclination to create that sort of situation. Yes, there are some reports of some corals in some tanks turning "less pretty" under some LEDs, but the same exact thing happens when some people switch from MH to T5, for instance. So, again, I don't think we can clearly say that there is a "better" way to do things at this point, from a spectral perspective. Surely, LED spectra are different than MH and T5 spectra, but since MH, T5, and LED can all make corals ugly or pretty, I don't think it makes sense to blindly try to copy the spectra of a given other technology when implementing LEDs.

Which is why I continue to suggest the "typical" CW/RB blend when people ask the question "what LEDs should I use?" Sure, this combo has produced undesirable results for some people. But it has also produced great results for many other people. And unfortunately there isn't (and probably never will be in the near future) a clear answer from the scientific community that "X spectrum produces the best colors in corals" AND there haven't been enough "alternative" LED rigs built to give a clear indication that any other combination is obviously better. It's great that people are starting to experiment with other color combos, but when someone totally new to the concept with no understanding of the variables involved says "what LEDs do I need?" IMHO given the current state, we are best off suggesting CW/RB, because we know it isn't outrageously bad. Once there have been several dozen "alternative" builds running for a year or more with coral progress photos, maybe then we can start altering this standard mix. In the end, I'm sure we'll end up with a variety of people using a wide range of diffferent mixes, in the same way that different people like different MH lamps or T5 combinations. If I want a 20kk XM on my tank, and you want a 15kk Iwasaki on your tank, that doesn't mean that you're wrong and I'm right, any more or less than CW/RB vs. NW/RB is wrong or right.
 
Supposedly this is what they like. Hard to go wrong with a lot of blue and red

photos7.gif
 
LED's have plenty of spectrum, PERIOD. I didn't switch from T5's to LED's with thousands of dollars worth of T5 equipment in the garage to be cool :D
 
I really wish I could find the links from the last time we discussed this. There was an article published in one of the reef magazines - maybe Advanced Aquarist - that showed coral responses to single-wavelength light (produced by LEDs, interestingly). The corals subject to red light did horribly. After finding that, I asked some people from the advanced forum (greenbean and some others) to talk about matching light colors to chlorophyll response curves, and basically got the answer "it depends." The takeaway message for me was basically that there is no guarantee that you'll get better results by matching those curves.

Looking at my response above now I realize it's long winded and curmudgeonly. I guess my overall point was that it's easy to get good growth with LEDs, which leaves coloration as the only potential variable - and it's a variable that depends greatly on other factors in the tank (food, flow, parameter levels, etc.). Hence we'd need very large sample sizes to ensure we were correctly correlating results to differences in LED light rigs. Add to that the fact that there's no real solid scientific data that says "corals will be prettiest under X spectrum" and we have ourselves a highly subjective, hard to nail down problem.

I am eagerly awaiting long-term results from people who are playing with non-standard LED mixes though! Especially you Grim, since you have such a solid handle on reef lighting in general.
 
The Warm white really does look like a sub-par spectrum for our needs, but the neutral white seems promising if used correctly. It has the same peak and intensity as the cool white around 450nm yet its decently close to the WW as far as energy production near 650-675nm (the other absorption point for Chlorophyll's A and B). I still think the RB/CW is tried and true, and I have the PAR data to back up that it will grow anything we need, but after looking at all these spectra I think I will add in a sparing amount of NW's purely on an aesthetic standpoint.

Also, XSiVE, thanks for the link that is exactly what I needed! However I just realized that now that I live in Durham I am ~15 minutes from CREE, inc. I really doubt that I would be able to get any LEDs directly from the source, but I might still contact them and see what they think of all the "research" we are doing for them!
 
I really wish I could find the links from the last time we discussed this. There was an article published in one of the reef magazines - maybe Advanced Aquarist - that showed coral responses to single-wavelength light (produced by LEDs, interestingly). The corals subject to red light did horribly. After finding that, I asked some people from the advanced forum (greenbean and some others) to talk about matching light colors to chlorophyll response curves, and basically got the answer "it depends." The takeaway message for me was basically that there is no guarantee that you'll get better results by matching those curves.

I would add to this that, under water, the red spectrum is quickly filtered out. Chlorophyll response is often based on land plants, not ocean plants (zooxanthellae). Trying to imitate sunlight is really going at things from the wrong direction, as we have learned from T5 and halide techniques. What I would keep in mind with the red spectrum is that colour is based on reflected light. If there is no red light available to reflect back to our eyes, then we cannot receive the colour. A reason why so many animals on the reef are completlely different coloured out of the water. I would suggest this may be a reason why some have been dissappointed with LED coral colours. The spectrum was missing for that particular colour to be sufficiently reflected. Keep in mind, as well, that the colour we percieve is actually a combination of reflected wavelengths, not any given specific wavelength (OK, an exception could be found). If the red is not well reflected, then the coral may appear orange or brown, depending on what other colours ARE being reflected.

I am eagerly awaiting long-term results from people who are playing with non-standard LED mixes though! Especially you Grim, since you have such a solid handle on reef lighting in general.

Me, too! Before I take the plunge, I want to collect more data, although I think I would consider mixing my whites to get a wider spectrum, which is more to my taste. As I see it, one can always turn up thr RBs to get a visual lower Kelvin rating.

Also, I remember the article on spectrum and coral response. It clearly pointed out that corals do best under '10K to 15K' as far as growth is concerned. Too blue a spectrum reduced coral growth rate, although certain colours tend to pop. It appears that this is largely a visual effect and has little to do with pigments, although a combination is very likely.
 
The Warm white really does look like a sub-par spectrum for our needs, but the neutral white seems promising if used correctly. It has the same peak and intensity as the cool white around 450nm

I'm getting picky here, but keep in mind that the graph is relative radiant power - i.e. the curves are normalized such that each LED's peak lands at the 100% mark. So, CW and NW do NOT produce the same amount of light at 450, it's just that 450 is the maximal point for both.
 
I finally got a picture of these:

Both_pendants_with_drivers.jpg


In operation:

2010-07-09161424.jpg


It is hard to get a pic of these they are TOO bright!

Gives you an idea of the coverage though.

Now if we could get Grim to go and do a PAR measurement ;-)

Stu
 
I finally got a picture of these:

Both_pendants_with_drivers.jpg


In operation:

2010-07-09161424.jpg


It is hard to get a pic of these they are TOO bright!

Gives you an idea of the coverage though.

Now if we could get Grim to go and do a PAR measurement ;-)

Stu

I'll run up this week. Just need to set a time with the owner, If you want to be there too that would be fine.
 
Need a little help. I've been using buckpucks and just hooking up a meanwell eln60-48D. I have a 10K pot and regulated 9V wall wart. When I hook the multimeter to the POT it reads the 9.2v reading to the 10K Pot. All the connections on the LED's are nice a clean. I have the external pot turned on the meanwell turn all the way down ( clockwise ) and the 10K pot turned all the way up.

When I hook everything up the LED's will on flash every 30-40 seconds.

Can anyone help?

-Dave
 
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