Wow that's some nice PAR off those.... From the readings though it doesn't seem to spread very far even with the wide-ish optics STU used. Wonder if it could cover a 3'x2 from 48" above without a huge spotlight effect.
DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I don't know what optics he used but I assume they are pretty tight. The design is perfect for the application, or at least seems to be.
stugray
Premium Member
Grim - Thanks!
I used the ledsupply "wide frosted lens" http://ledsupply.com/10509.php
I shows a 36.7 degree illum. pattern.
So what is your conclusion? I was shooting for each of those pendants to be the equivalent of a 400 W MH. Do you think I made it, fell short, exceeded?
My rule of thumb was that you can get equivalent light with 1/3 the watts from LEDs.
Since those are rated to run at 150 watts each ( but I turn them down some ) I was hoping to be better than a 450 W MH on each.
Stu
I used the ledsupply "wide frosted lens" http://ledsupply.com/10509.php
I shows a 36.7 degree illum. pattern.
So what is your conclusion? I was shooting for each of those pendants to be the equivalent of a 400 W MH. Do you think I made it, fell short, exceeded?
My rule of thumb was that you can get equivalent light with 1/3 the watts from LEDs.
Since those are rated to run at 150 watts each ( but I turn them down some ) I was hoping to be better than a 450 W MH on each.
Stu
laverda
Well-known member
Dave
To read AMPs you need to hook your volt meter up in series with the LEDs. Besure to un plug the Mean well first to do that.
I suspect your voltage is set to low on the Mean well. you can wire your 9 volt power source directly to the 0-10V side of the Mean well.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
How many LED's are on each one? I must be missing something here. Pic shows 16 with room for 8 more. Are the drivers wasting a lot of power?
I'd say they are easily in line with 250's but 400's? Not based on the readings I got over that front tank.
I'm trying to learn but this thread is so full it's way overwhelming for a LED nube. I want to replace my 48" 454 and super actinic VHOs with LEDs. I wouldn't mind having 4 separate small fixtures to mount under the hood. How do I do this.
Any help from you guys would be appreciated.
Any help from you guys would be appreciated.
stugray
Premium Member
Grim,
"How many LED's are on each one? I must be missing something here. Pic shows 16 with room for 8 more. Are the drivers wasting a lot of power?
I'd say they are easily in line with 250's but 400's? Not based on the readings I got over that front tank. "
Those pendants have 16 each of these:
So each pendant has 24 Cool White XP-Gs & 24 Royal blue for a total of 48 LEDs each.
Stu
"How many LED's are on each one? I must be missing something here. Pic shows 16 with room for 8 more. Are the drivers wasting a lot of power?
I'd say they are easily in line with 250's but 400's? Not based on the readings I got over that front tank. "
Those pendants have 16 each of these:
So each pendant has 24 Cool White XP-Gs & 24 Royal blue for a total of 48 LEDs each.
Stu
TheFishMan65
New member
Go back to page 171. There is a summary there. That is a good starting place and summarize the current consensus. Although I suggest getting a few different LEDs and lenses and seeing what you like,
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Grim,
"How many LED's are on each one? I must be missing something here. Pic shows 16 with room for 8 more. Are the drivers wasting a lot of power?
I'd say they are easily in line with 250's but 400's? Not based on the readings I got over that front tank. "
Those pendants have 16 each of these:
So each pendant has 24 Cool White XP-Gs & 24 Royal blue for a total of 48 LEDs each.
Stu
LOL, guess I should put on my glasses when reading posts. :lolspin:
Like I said, I think they would match up against the best 250's but the numbers on those Ushio 400's are way better. I mean 500 at the bottom of that deep tank when the the reading wasn't even taken at a prime position is pretty impressive. What is the spacing between those led disks?
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The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
2000 is supposed to be the noon standard but I seem to remember it being 2200 at the ocean surface at the equator. Not sure in the area of the reefs, assume somewhere between the two.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Definitely not, but then you have people like Sanjay Joshi stating that numbers between 200 and 400 are probably more than enough for anything we're likely to keep!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
While you do have a whole lot more PAR at the surface you have to keep in mind you have SPS everywhere from just below the water surface to something like 20 feet below if I remember right. As DaWilly (sorry for the Ghettoization of your handle) said I believe a reading of 400 or so was seen as the high side for a average reading at the level where most SPS thrived. Corals are pretty adaptive.
This (daytime, twilight, and nocturnal intensities) is addressed somewhat (with hints at some interesting LED applications) in an article in this month's WWM Digital Mag.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/WWMDigitalMagV1Ish1.htm
sammy113
New member
This is my first time working with ELN "D" model and its something weird on the dimming pot. First, my LEDs are working ok. It is actually dimming but the 10k pot seems to be working inverse. If I turn it full clockwise it will shut off, if I turn it counter clockwise it lights up to max.
I have a 9V regulated power supply, the 10K pot has 3 prongs which I'm using the first from left and middle. I guess it should be solved by simply switching connection in pot but don't want to mess anything. Were does the Negative and Positive goes? (currently have + on left, - on center and right one empty)
I have a 9V regulated power supply, the 10K pot has 3 prongs which I'm using the first from left and middle. I guess it should be solved by simply switching connection in pot but don't want to mess anything. Were does the Negative and Positive goes? (currently have + on left, - on center and right one empty)
Taqpol
New member
This is quoted directly from my LED thread, but I figure it is relevant here as well.
I have decided to go with the DIY CAT4101 driver designed by Der Wille Zur Macht in the LED driver thread for my large tank setup. This allows me to have a more cost efficient driver for the larger setup, as well as the ability to use only two 24v high amperage power supplies that have PFC protection built in. No more worries about my house burning down with too many Meanwell drivers.
I am only using 2/3 of the board capabilities, but that is because I wanted to stick to my original plan and control 12 LEDs a channel with PWM. Heres the actual board, only ten parts in my application!
This setup is will run five boards (sixty LEDs) and is powered by this bad boy:
Arduino Mega clone. Currently this is providing a 5v source to the CAT4101's required 5v in as well as the 5v PWM. Once I figure out how to program it it will provide 5v to the 5v in pins of all ten boards as well as controlling ten channels of PWM.
And I have light! This is two strings of six XR-E Royal Blues. When I turn down the power supply so that it is only dropping ~0.8v more then the LED strings themselves the CAT4101's barely get warm to the touch!
Tested all ten of my boards with the old LED setup.
I turned the extra board Seeed Studio sent me into a spare with all three channels populated.
Arriving sometime tomorrow should be my five 8.4"x10" heatsinks from www.heatsinkusa.com . This time I am actually going to screw the LEDs down, but only because my father's company owns a CNC machine and he offered to have the heatsinks drilled and tapped for me. If anyone is interested in the CNC files or perhaps getting your own heatsinks tapped go ahead and send me a PM.
I also have all the LEDs I need to light the big tank (120 LEDs, 60 XR-E CW, 60 XR-E RB), but I have decided to incorporate 10 CREE XR-E Neutral Whites into the setup. These will be run two per each fixture, without optics, for more even spread and to try and add some more red light into the spectrum without driving the overall color temperature down too far.
I have decided to go with the DIY CAT4101 driver designed by Der Wille Zur Macht in the LED driver thread for my large tank setup. This allows me to have a more cost efficient driver for the larger setup, as well as the ability to use only two 24v high amperage power supplies that have PFC protection built in. No more worries about my house burning down with too many Meanwell drivers.
I am only using 2/3 of the board capabilities, but that is because I wanted to stick to my original plan and control 12 LEDs a channel with PWM. Heres the actual board, only ten parts in my application!
This setup is will run five boards (sixty LEDs) and is powered by this bad boy:
Arduino Mega clone. Currently this is providing a 5v source to the CAT4101's required 5v in as well as the 5v PWM. Once I figure out how to program it it will provide 5v to the 5v in pins of all ten boards as well as controlling ten channels of PWM.
And I have light! This is two strings of six XR-E Royal Blues. When I turn down the power supply so that it is only dropping ~0.8v more then the LED strings themselves the CAT4101's barely get warm to the touch!
Tested all ten of my boards with the old LED setup.
I turned the extra board Seeed Studio sent me into a spare with all three channels populated.
Arriving sometime tomorrow should be my five 8.4"x10" heatsinks from www.heatsinkusa.com . This time I am actually going to screw the LEDs down, but only because my father's company owns a CNC machine and he offered to have the heatsinks drilled and tapped for me. If anyone is interested in the CNC files or perhaps getting your own heatsinks tapped go ahead and send me a PM.
I also have all the LEDs I need to light the big tank (120 LEDs, 60 XR-E CW, 60 XR-E RB), but I have decided to incorporate 10 CREE XR-E Neutral Whites into the setup. These will be run two per each fixture, without optics, for more even spread and to try and add some more red light into the spectrum without driving the overall color temperature down too far.
wld1783
Premium Member
+1
I do a high noon blast of XP-G LEDs but find 60 XR-E on a 24" heatsick perfect. Thats 400PAR at 24" with 80 degree optics driven at 700mA. Anything more is too much
I've seen a lot of rave over the newer LEDs. But none have improved on the XR-E Royal Blue...I still think the 80 degree optics for the XR-E rock. PAR is PAR. Any one willing is free to post the facts.
The XR-E is still the standard Like the 30-06. Close to 100 years later we now have the .300WSM but both work for our specific application. Only a small difference in preformance.
Bill
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