DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Ok so roughly the area is 57 * 29 * .5 = 3306 square inches. For SPS figure 1 LED per 14 square inches. So 3306 / 14 = 236 LEDs. Kcress you sure I am doing tis right? I have 48 or a 75 and things are doing alright (ok not great so maybe I am a bit short), this is twice the water so shouldn't it be twice the LEDs which is where I got my original 100 from.

Has anyone built using the 14 Hard Coral, 16 soft, 18 FOWLR numbers? Are you burning the corals?
 
Assuming the 57 is the width at the back, and it's truly an approximate half circle you would have

0.5(pi*28.5^2) = 1275 square inches => ~84 LEDs
 
I must have hit mupltiply rather than divide - thanks all. So Islander 84 would probably be a good number. Where did you get 23968.5 - your math must be worse than mine :)

84 LEDs is probably around $600 for LED and driver. Add heat sink material, thermal paste, solder, wire, etc. I would guess less than $700 plus what ever heat sink you use. You could use U channel. You may also find something at your junk yard or recycle place. That is what I did.
 
Is anyone using a Reefkeeper elite to dim their LED's for a sunrise/sunset type effect? if so, what module are yu using, and how tough was it to get to work? Thanks!!
 
For XP-Gs, whites, is 1000mA the optimal setting or would it still be 700mA? Do you see a large difference in par levels between 700-1000mA?
 
According the datasheet at 700ma the output is about 180% of the 350 ma and at 1000ma it is 250%. So going from 700 to 1000 gives about a 40% gain in luminous flux. I would think this would also translate to a 40% increase in PAR.
 
TwistedEnvy said:
For XP-Gs, whites, is 1000mA the optimal setting or would it still be 700mA? Do you see a large difference in par levels between 700-1000mA?
Click to expand...

The test current for XP-E's and XP-G's is 350 ma

for XP-G's at 700ma (about 2.25w) output is about 180% of the test current or 250 lumens for R5 BINs, at 1A (about 3.4w) it is 250% (about 350 lumens) and at 1.5A (about 5.3w) it's about 330% (460 lumens).

As far as XP-E's go, the slopes are pretty flat so I don't see any reason to not run them at 1A other than heat.
 
wfournier said:
The test current for XP-E's and XP-G's is 350 ma

for XP-G's at 700ma (about 2.25w) output is about 180% of the test current or 250 lumens for R5 BINs, at 1A (about 3.4w) it is 250% (about 350 lumens) and at 1.5A (about 5.3w) it's about 330% (460 lumens).

As far as XP-E's go, the slopes are pretty flat so I don't see any reason to not run them at 1A other than heat.
Click to expand...

You must be referring to the current consumed vs output %. Yes, the curve looks somewhat linear, but you must also remember that voltage is increasing as current does. At higher currents they are in fact considerably less efficient.
 
That resistor should work.

Well if we want to get picky :) It will also run hotter which will decrease the light output so it will be even less efficient.
 
widmer said:
You must be referring to the current consumed vs output %. Yes, the curve looks somewhat linear, but you must also remember that voltage is increasing as current does. At higher currents they are in fact considerably less efficient.
Click to expand...

I guess you have to decide what is significant. By my calculations they are about 8.5% more efficient at 700 mA vs 1A.
 
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