DIY LEDs - The write-up

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XM-L T5 are 260 at 700 ma and 2.9 volts or 128 lumens / watt
XP-G are 139 at 350 ma and 3 volts or 132 lumens / watt
WHAT! Somebody double check me.

If you have a deep tank the XML might help for penetration. XML produce almost twice the light (at twice the power) so price wise they are cheaper 1 XM-L versus 2 XP-G, but then you have to worry about spread because they will be further apart. IMHO I would probably go XP-Gs. The ratio there is 1:2 white to royal blue. If you went with XM-L the ration should probably be 1:4. I have not tried it yet, but am leaning toward recommending NW so now you would be at 1:1:8 CW:NW:RB. Just seems that spacing maybe awkward.
 
I have had my LEDs up for a few months now using a 50/50 CW:RB I have 24 xpgs and 24 XML being ran at 1.5 amps. the XMs are brighter but almost seem like too much with carclo optics. If I were to do it again I would leave out the XMs and do more RB or possibly some standard blues.
 
Thanks for that tidbit of info patmack. Do you really mean xpE? And you're really running the xpEs at 1.5A?
 
XM-L T5 are 260 at 700 ma and 2.9 volts or 128 lumens / watt
XP-G are 139 at 350 ma and 3 volts or 132 lumens / watt
WHAT! Somebody double check me.

If you have a deep tank the XML might help for penetration. XML produce almost twice the light (at twice the power) so price wise they are cheaper 1 XM-L versus 2 XP-G, but then you have to worry about spread because they will be further apart. IMHO I would probably go XP-Gs. The ratio there is 1:2 white to royal blue. If you went with XM-L the ration should probably be 1:4. I have not tried it yet, but am leaning toward recommending NW so now you would be at 1:1:8 CW:NW:RB. Just seems that spacing maybe awkward.

That's right. But you are comparing apples to oranges. To compare the efficiency you need to compare them at the same current since lumens per watt decreases and the current increases. Check the numbers for XML at 350mA or xpg at 700mA in order to compare them fairly. The are fairly more efficient.

I haven't done par readings yet, but I ran xpg nw next to XML cw at 1000mA and the XML were noticeably brighter. I couldn't believe the difference.

I choose the XML be because I'm mounting pendants up high and I needed to get lots of light at the substrate through 3' of air and 2' of water. I'm using 40 degree oprice and running them at about 2000mA. Unless of course that is too much light. I think there is a good chance it might be.

I don't think I'll have heat issues because the heat sink is pretty sparse and there is no noticeable warmth at 1000mA. I also want some shadows but at that height I don't think there will be much spotlighting. I was able to save about 30% on LEDs due to needing less.
 
Sorry if this was adressed befor i didnt see it
Would it be cool to spray paint an led heat sink. I want it black and its for a nano only 6 leds
Thanks
 
I contacted Apogee about which to quantum sensor to purchase for our application. (I hadn't realized I didn't need to spend $300 on a whole meter and could get this to use with my MM for alot less). I received such a good response I thought the information would be useful to post here.

"Hi xxxxx,

Yes, the SQ-120 (electric calibration) would be our best option for your application. These units are sealed and submersible up to 30m and are compatible with salt water. The SQ-100's are considered self-powered and will generate a mV output that you can measure with your voltmeter. We calibrate everything to a factor of 5.0 µmol/m2/s per mV, so just multiply your mV output by 5 to derive the photon flux value.

In regards to measuring LED's with the quantum sensor, there are some caveats to doing so. The following link shows the spectral response of our quantum sensor (http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/quantum/spectralresponse.html). As the graph shows, Apogee quantum sensors underweight blue light, and as a result, photon flux measurements for blue LEDs will be too low. They also overweight red light up to a wavelength of approximately 650 nm, above which they do not measure, and as a result, photon flux measurement for red LEDs will either be too high (if the LED output is all below 650 nm) or too low (if a non-negligible fraction of the LED output is above 650 nm). Additionally, LED's often have a very narrow spectral output, with a sharp peak of only a few nanometers. So, unless the quantum sensor has a perfectly flat spectral response, meaning it weights all wavelengths of light exactly the same, there will be errors. Electrically calibrated Apogee quantum sensors will likely provide a reasonable measurement for white LED's because they are broadband, and because electrically calibrated quantum sensors are calibrated under CWF lamps. However, for narrowband LEDs, like red and blue, Apogee quantum sensors will not provide an accurate measurement.

You can use the same spectral response graph (http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/quantum/spectralresponse.html) to get a relative idea of the error. For example, a 450nm blue LED will have a relative response of approximately 0.8. Therefore, you can figure that the photon flux reading from the sensor is probably reading approximately 20% low. Just remember, this approach is only relative so give yourself a wide margin of potential error. A blue/white configuration should give you reasonable accuracy, particularly from the broadband spectrum of the white.

Hopefully, that makes sense. Please let me know if there are any questions.

Regards,

Jacob Bingham
Applications Engineer
jacob.bingham@apogeeinstruments.com
www.apogeeinstruments.com
721 W 1800 N Logan, UT 84321
ph: 435.792.4700 fax: 435.787.8268"

What a great contribution (among many you've brought to this thread). Thank you.
 
Sorry if this was adressed befor i didnt see it
Would it be cool to spray paint an led heat sink. I want it black and its for a nano only 6 leds
Thanks

I believe that spray painting will impede it's ability to transfer heat from the mass of the heat sink to the surrounding air. It would be beter to get an anodized heat sink
 
While that's true emora, all these heatsinks are such massive over-kill that painting them won't make any practical difference.
 
I have seen some conflicting information regarding running meanwell 60-48d's in parallel.

My leds have a forward voltage of "3.2-3.7". I want to run two strings in parallel at 650ma, how many can I run? I have seen posts where people claim 14 per string is possible, and I have also seen posts saying you are limited to 12 per string, and yet others run 13... I just want to run the maximum safe amount of LED's per driver.

Just for my knowledge. If I wanted to run 3 strings in parallel I would be driving the leds at 433ma?
 
I have seen some conflicting information regarding running meanwell 60-48d's in parallel.

My leds have a forward voltage of "3.2-3.7". I want to run two strings in parallel at 650ma, how many can I run? I have seen posts where people claim 14 per string is possible, and I have also seen posts saying you are limited to 12 per string, and yet others run 13... I just want to run the maximum safe amount of LED's per driver.

Just for my knowledge. If I wanted to run 3 strings in parallel I would be driving the leds at 433ma?

What type of LEDs? As you can imagine 3.2v-3.7 is a large range. For worst case divide the high end (3.7) into the driver voltage (48) that tells you how many you can run in series.

Your are correct about parallel strings.

I have personally made an actinic supplement fixture for a friend and its running 28 Cree XPE RBs in 2 strings of 14 off a meanwell ELN 60-48. its been running for about 4 months now with no problems.
 
They are bridgelux 3w leds, I plan to try Cree's later for other projects if everything goes OK with this build. 13 would be 48.1v. So, should I just wire up 12 and if I still have 3.7v left I can add one more, if I have 7.4v left I can add two more? I assume I can test these in a series, since the voltage would remain the same, given the meanwell is adjusted properly?

I think the voltage range was given for the entire line of LED's, not one specific color/bin, its not from the data sheet, just from the advertisement.

I also have a question about the soldering iron tip. I got a weller 40 watt adjustable iron, and it came with a flat tip. I have been practicing soldering pretinned wire to pennies, but I am thinking there is a better tip I could use, any recommendations for the proper tip for soldering led stars?
 
Hey Guys,
A bit of a more random electrical question for anybody who's up for it.

I have some power hungry 12vdc fans, so I bought what I thought was a good regulated power supply. It puts out 12vdc up to 6a. It's for a laptop.

When I test the output, it's very close to 12, around 12.2a.

So I wired the output of the power supply to a 10k linear pot. Connected one side to (-), the other side to (+), and use the (-) side and the wiper to connect to the fan side. I was hoping to use the Pot to dial the speed of the fans back if they were loud.

But when I test the voltage across my wiper pin and (-) with the pot fully cranked, I am only seeing around 10.4v.. turning the pot lower does bring the value down to 0. My fans won't start with 10v.

Can anybody think why the pot would be sucking up almost 2v off the top? Does that mean my power supply just doesn't like having a pot regulate it, or did I wire something wrong?
 
does the PS drive the fans when not connect through the pot? Its usually starting current or lack thereof that prevents the fan from starting. You might want to check the resistance of your pot at each extreme
 
Hey Guys,
A bit of a more random electrical question for anybody who's up for it.

I have some power hungry 12vdc fans, so I bought what I thought was a good regulated power supply. It puts out 12vdc up to 6a. It's for a laptop.

When I test the output, it's very close to 12, around 12.2a.

So I wired the output of the power supply to a 10k linear pot. Connected one side to (-), the other side to (+), and use the (-) side and the wiper to connect to the fan side. I was hoping to use the Pot to dial the speed of the fans back if they were loud.

But when I test the voltage across my wiper pin and (-) with the pot fully cranked, I am only seeing around 10.4v.. turning the pot lower does bring the value down to 0. My fans won't start with 10v.

Can anybody think why the pot would be sucking up almost 2v off the top? Does that mean my power supply just doesn't like having a pot regulate it, or did I wire something wrong?

Someone should turn you into the SPCP!

I would not expect that to work. The pot is too much resistance even in it's high state. That is why the 10V not 12V too.

I'd suggest you buy a computer fan speed controller. Some are PWM gizmos that also don't dump a ton of heat. They also tend to be open for cooling unlike regular pots.
 
Please, check my plan:
Top view
rssocw.jpg


tank dimensions: 30"x 24"x 17"(H), mixed reef; SPS corals are at 4-8" under the water line.
I want to keep it as easy and cheap as possible so I'll use only 700mA Constant current drivers and Cree XP-E/XP-G LEDs with 55-60° optics.
Three rows, each with four clusters (36 LEDs total, with the same two heat-sinks), is my second choice, but I'm not sure it will be enough?
 
I have one that I'll be running 84 XPEs with. What LEDs and how do you plan to string them?

The Satis 3W.

I'd run 6 parallel strands of 16 LEDs. Each would be identical.

If I don't do that I'm going to use like 120-140 of their 1W LEDs over my 75g FOWLR.

I just want better coloration and a FULL light over the tank instead of two single PC bulbs.

Plus this way I can add an anemone for the skunk clownfish pair.

Thoughts?

What degree optics should I use?

I'm thinking 60 degrees for the 3W or 25 degree for the 1W since I'll have about twice as many.
 
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