DIY Stands Template and Calculator

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Question:

What type of 2x4 is everyone using? Does it matter as long as they are NOT treated lumber and are straight? Like the $2.09 ones from Home Depot.

Thanks
 
mine were 1.98



Hey guys,

Can you take a peak, where am I screwing up? (first time doing this...)


TIA!

stand-goopedup.jpg


stand-total.jpg


stand-front.jpg


stand-back.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12227520#post12227520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BWilfong
Question:

What type of 2x4 is everyone using? Does it matter as long as they are NOT treated lumber and are straight? Like the $2.09 ones from Home Depot.

Thanks
Click to expand...

straight is better and easier to work with. You don't need treated lumber. HD or lowes is fine.
 
Yep, anything you want to use is fine as long as it's decent quality (straight, few knots, etc) for its type. #2, white select pine, oak if you want. Anything.
 
I'm thinking about building this for my in-wall tank. Currently I have a 30 gallon built into a wall that I didn't put in, and looks like it's been there for 10 years. I want to rip out all of the old stuff before it falls over and build it for a 55 for when I upgrade... my concern is that I want the tank flush to the wall like it already is, but don't want to cut the bottom stud that all of the wall studs are sitting on, so could I trim 1.5" off of one of the bottom orange pieces so that it sits on the 2x4 that's already there? I don't see why not....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12234052#post12234052 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spllbnd2
Nice stand. Was the stand built with the same method as the diy stand here (2x4 construction)?

Nice lighting on the tank as well.

Alex
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment!

I finished building it over a year ago--haven't gone thru this long thread yet, sorry. I just made a 2x4 frame, with no center brace. I finished it so the doors are larger than the frame openings, and removeable. I was going to use magnets, but the doors stay in place without.

My woodworking skills aren't up to par with others here, so I didn't try for the nice wood grain finish--just painted it, and it blends better into the wall.

The hood opens with a hinge at the top. Hood is completely vented, so I don't need to use a chiller. Top of stand is tiled with travertine.

90_reef_open.JPG


90_reef_closed.JPG
 
FiReBReTHa,

I really like your wood grain--looks good to me! I think it would look great with a dark colored granite tile "tabletop" to match your very nice wood color.

I guess I'm partial to a tiled stand top, cause it seems to handle getting wet better than just wood. I had spilled superglue gel on the tile while glueing frags. The tile sanded clean real easy.
 
Ok, if someone could clarify a few things for me, making first stand this weekend (thanks so much for the plans!) and want to make sure I haven't missed anything:

Tank is RR 125G 72X18X22

Tired of bending over, want to make stand 40" tall...will be room divider, not against wall, extra height will help viewing from kitchen

1. Based on equation given earlier, having a taller stand with this size aquarium should not be an issue as long as it is sturdy (will probably secure to floor as well)...does it matter that tank is not very wide, just skinny? Does it matter that it will not be resting against a wall? Planning on sheetrocking around stand to give more built-in look instead of skinning, should I skin in cheaper wood also for more support?

2. I have not seen anyone answer the question regarding sealing/painting the stand...is it necessary? I have seen it done both ways and would prefer not to to save time, is that a bad idea? If I should seal/paint it etc what to use?

Thanks for the great thread!
 
Sealing the wood/painting is a good idea. I caulked/painted mine. If I were to do it again, I'd go with an epoxy (white) coating.

There are painted surfaces inside the hood that's been exposed to water splash, and the paint is bubbling/peeling. In a few years or so, I may have to redo the inside finish. Better to do it right the first time.
 
2thdeekay,
What type of paint did you use?

I didn't use epoxy based paint either. I used 2 coats of acrylic latex (water based/cleans up with water) deck paint/sealant that's supposed to be 100% water proof on top of a coat of primer. Most epoxy paints will actually rust and look pretty bad in a couple months. I also caulked any large holes and gaps with regular silicon. Just make sure it says "can be painted" on the package. The types that say they can't aren't joking.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12246926#post12246926 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Siffy
2thdeekay,
What type of paint did you use?

...Most epoxy paints will actually rust and look pretty bad in a couple months.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I used KILZ primer/paint.

In my post I meant "epoxy", the 2 part adhesive. 2 part epoxy is available in gallon size containers. It's mixed at a 1:1 ratio

They use the stuff to build/coat wooden boats--It won't rust! It seals the wood completely. However, you should select epoxy that is pigmented, as to protect the wood from UV. Clear epoxy has little/no UV protection.

Boats (sailboats, driftboats, etc) that are built to show off pretty wood grain, need a coat of varnish on top of the epoxy, to provide UV protection. Of course, most reefs aren't in the sun all day, even though they are very well lit.
 
Last edited:
Ah, ok. I assumed you meant a white epoxy based paint/sealant. Those will rust as some of them contain metal.
 
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