DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter RocketEngineer
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But 120 looks like a good guess to me as well.I'm planning on building a stand for a 125 gal (72") long tank with a 30 gal wet/dry filter underneath. If I put in some extra supports from front to back on the bottom frame, and then add layer of plywood will this be enough to support the filter? Also, I'm not planning on skinning the back, and want to leave the front as open as possible with only a couple of doors in the center for easy access for maintenance. Can I just add some 45 degree cut 2x4's in the corners for the extra torsional support, and be safe from twisting?
This is an awesome thread, and was exactly what I was looking for considering that an oak stand and canopy that I like is priced at $900! :eek1: I figure I can save at least $700 doing this on my own, and with a real nice stone spray paint finish I found on another thread the finish work won't be nearly as bad.
This is an awesome thread, and was exactly what I was looking for considering that an oak stand and canopy that I like is priced at $900! :eek1: I figure I can save at least $700 doing this on my own, and with a real nice stone spray paint finish I found on another thread the finish work won't be nearly as bad.
WLachnit
Active member
I have a similar question w/ the same size acrylic quarium. I know it was mentioned that most of the weight of a glass aquarium is on the corners and therefore do not have to worry about loading the rails (beams) that much. Is this true for an acrylic as asked above? How much would a 4x6 deflect on a 96" span.
mmagombo,
What did you end up doing? I have the same aquarium and I built my stand (just before I found this thread) with the back rail (2x6) bolted to a load bearing wall and a clear spanning 4x6 on the front. The sides were built w/ 2x4 and 4x4 as plywood diaphragms. I may post a picture later because I am now curious how this will holdup (I haven't filled it yet).
macchicks
CORA
I need an alteration to allow for a vent to be ran.
Using the Original design does this alteration look safe.
125 gallon 6 foot stand 2 by 4 will also have uprights on back of stand I just forgot to add them.
The gap is 8 to 10 inches.
There will be insulation on around the vent and flooring on the bottom
Using the Original design does this alteration look safe.
125 gallon 6 foot stand 2 by 4 will also have uprights on back of stand I just forgot to add them.
The gap is 8 to 10 inches.
There will be insulation on around the vent and flooring on the bottom
stand for 300g
stand for 300g
WLachnit,
I have not built the stand yet. The aquarium took longer to ship than I expected. I have the aquarium now and am just getting back to the stand design. I am thinking of going with the .5" steel plate sandwiched between 2 2x4's. The .5 x 3.5 steel plate should be about as strong as a single 2 x 6 (assuming I calculated correctly) I am still trying to confirm my calculations.
stand for 300g
WLachnit,
I have not built the stand yet. The aquarium took longer to ship than I expected. I have the aquarium now and am just getting back to the stand design. I am thinking of going with the .5" steel plate sandwiched between 2 2x4's. The .5 x 3.5 steel plate should be about as strong as a single 2 x 6 (assuming I calculated correctly) I am still trying to confirm my calculations.
lunarlanderboy
Premium Member
Thanks so much for this thread!!! I have never built anything out of wood in my life and I made a stand for my 20 gallon! I'm very proud of it- it took me a ridiculous amount of time to build with a lot of mistakes because I had no idea what I was doing but they were all learning experiences.
Could someone please let me know if there are any tricks of the trade for the next part- the skinning it with plywood part. Do I just cut plywood to the right lengths and then nail it into the frame? I've been looking at everyone's pictures to kind of see how it's done but I wanted to be sure there's not some intermediate step I couldn't see.
Could someone please let me know if there are any tricks of the trade for the next part- the skinning it with plywood part. Do I just cut plywood to the right lengths and then nail it into the frame? I've been looking at everyone's pictures to kind of see how it's done but I wanted to be sure there's not some intermediate step I couldn't see.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
mmagombo,
Sorry for the long reply, I have been busy trying to put my bedroom and office back together after renovating two closets.
For a 96" span, unsupported case: assuming 10#/gal that means the tank will weigh 3000#s, with each rail supporting half that =1500#s per rail. In that case you would need a doubled 2X10 rail to keep the deflection less then 1/8th of an inch in the middle. Not good since you want as much head room as possible.
For a 48" span which would mean center supports we get 750#s per rail (3000/4) and again aiming for a deflection under .125" using standard lumber sizes would require a 2X6 rail. This would give you a deflection between the end and the center post of ~.05 inches.
Rather then fight with a steel plate, simply using a 2X6 top rail with a center post should meet your needs.
WLachnit,
A simply supported beam composed of (2) 2X6 boards is in fact 3"X5.5" and is capable of supporting 451#s distributed load with a max deflection of .125" (.1249"). That same beam only 48" long is capable of carrying a distributed load of 3610#s with the same .125" deflection limit. Doubling up the beams just doubles the strength where as making it taller has a much greater impact on beam strength.
macchicks,
If you can tolerate the height, a 2X6 will more then easily span the full 6' and you would only need to box around the vent.
For everyone else, thanks for your input and comments. If you have any direct analysis questions, let me know.
Happy building.
Sorry for the long reply, I have been busy trying to put my bedroom and office back together after renovating two closets.
For a 96" span, unsupported case: assuming 10#/gal that means the tank will weigh 3000#s, with each rail supporting half that =1500#s per rail. In that case you would need a doubled 2X10 rail to keep the deflection less then 1/8th of an inch in the middle. Not good since you want as much head room as possible.
For a 48" span which would mean center supports we get 750#s per rail (3000/4) and again aiming for a deflection under .125" using standard lumber sizes would require a 2X6 rail. This would give you a deflection between the end and the center post of ~.05 inches.
Rather then fight with a steel plate, simply using a 2X6 top rail with a center post should meet your needs.
WLachnit,
A simply supported beam composed of (2) 2X6 boards is in fact 3"X5.5" and is capable of supporting 451#s distributed load with a max deflection of .125" (.1249"). That same beam only 48" long is capable of carrying a distributed load of 3610#s with the same .125" deflection limit. Doubling up the beams just doubles the strength where as making it taller has a much greater impact on beam strength.
macchicks,
If you can tolerate the height, a 2X6 will more then easily span the full 6' and you would only need to box around the vent.
For everyone else, thanks for your input and comments. If you have any direct analysis questions, let me know.
Happy building.
Laud is that stand a little wider than the tank or is that just the molding that has extended the width of the the stand beyond the tank.
Reason I ask is because I'm about to build my stand but I'm thinking about trying to gain another 2 inches under the stand so I can put my pumps next to each other in the sump area.
danielson1506
New member
Everyone here is using 2x4s as the frame. I was wondering if 3/4" oak veneer plywood could support a tank, maybe a 120g. No 2x4 support just the tank bottom frame directly on top of the plywood. Ive looked at the AGA standard stands and it looks like this is all they do. A glass tank only needs to be supported at the corners? Does it need some support in the middle with a 4 foot span?
A while back I came across a Tenecor acrylic 125 flat back hex. It also came with a black acrylic stand and hood. All for only $300! Anyways, I don't lke the acryic stand and want try and build a wood stand. How can this plan be modified for flat back hex (72x18x24)?
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laud
New member
It is really the molding even though it is a 1/2 inch bigger on both sides by accident.
I've seen some posts in this thread where they make the stand bigger to accommodate more shelving on top, but I imagine you can have more room underneath as well.
Just to mention, I wish I would have had more room underneath for the same reason you are thinking about it. Good luck.
I'm planning on ordering a Perfecto 150 H (48"x24"x30") next week at my LFS I plan on putting a 40gal breeder under it with 2 ext pumps. So I'm trying to pick up a few inches under the tank so I can fit the pumps next to each other under the tank. I really could make due with just 1 more inch but I figured it might be easier if I extend by 3 1/2"'s on each side (total 7 inches to my tank length). Here's what I've worked out"
Stand will be 55" x 24" x 33"
Based on colors in Rockets original post
Red 55" (2 x 6's) (x 2)
Yellow 21" (x 4) 1 @ each end of stand & 1 under where each side of tank will rest.
Green 31" (x 4)
Purple 24" (x 8) I don't understand how/where the joists connect so I figure a purple leg under where tank sits and 1 @ end of stand
Orange 55" (x 2)
Blue 21" (x 4) plan on putting 2 blues on bottom because of the 40 gal sump
Saltwaterfishlover if you have a full tank +stand shot of your setup I would like to see it. I'm still trying to figure out if I want to extend the front out 3 1/2" to make things more symmetrical to the eye.
Have I adapted the original plan correctly? Should I have gone about it in a different manner?
Stand will be 55" x 24" x 33"
Based on colors in Rockets original post
Red 55" (2 x 6's) (x 2)
Yellow 21" (x 4) 1 @ each end of stand & 1 under where each side of tank will rest.
Green 31" (x 4)
Purple 24" (x 8) I don't understand how/where the joists connect so I figure a purple leg under where tank sits and 1 @ end of stand
Orange 55" (x 2)
Blue 21" (x 4) plan on putting 2 blues on bottom because of the 40 gal sump
Saltwaterfishlover if you have a full tank +stand shot of your setup I would like to see it. I'm still trying to figure out if I want to extend the front out 3 1/2" to make things more symmetrical to the eye.
Have I adapted the original plan correctly? Should I have gone about it in a different manner?
Mako Shark II
Fish are Friends not Food
I like the Aquascaping! Nice caves and overhangs. What's supporting your LR?
cardiffgiant
Active member
I'm using the plans for this stand for my new build. Progress on the build will be in this thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1389407
Here is the frame for my stand, with a base for my sump:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1389407
Here is the frame for my stand, with a base for my sump:
I built this stand for my 125 following the directions exactly however I did make it 3' in total height...
I used the 6" boards for the top and 2x4 for the rest..
My stand seems tippy and its making me uncomfortable incase someone ever bumped into it? Has anyone else seen this issue? I know the floor is uneven but I used shims to level it as best I could?
I have thought about adding another rectangular frame around the bottom of the tank to give it a bigger base? Is there any merit to that idea or would it not make a difference?
Thanks!
I used the 6" boards for the top and 2x4 for the rest..
My stand seems tippy and its making me uncomfortable incase someone ever bumped into it? Has anyone else seen this issue? I know the floor is uneven but I used shims to level it as best I could?
I have thought about adding another rectangular frame around the bottom of the tank to give it a bigger base? Is there any merit to that idea or would it not make a difference?
Thanks!
The carpet and pad adds a lot to the tippyness.
It should be very easy to fasten it to the wall. Just find a stud in the wall that is behind the tank. Screw a board to the stud, have a spacer that fits between the wall and some point on the back of the stand (closer the top will support it better, and Fasten the spacer to the board on the wall and the stand. You will want to fasten the spacer to the board for the wall before it is screwed to the wall.
Kim
It should be very easy to fasten it to the wall. Just find a stud in the wall that is behind the tank. Screw a board to the stud, have a spacer that fits between the wall and some point on the back of the stand (closer the top will support it better, and Fasten the spacer to the board on the wall and the stand. You will want to fasten the spacer to the board for the wall before it is screwed to the wall.
Kim
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