DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Status
Not open for further replies.
randomworker, thasnks for the reply, i did it as you mentioned, i just moticed some poeple has angles pilot holes in some of the upright legs.

I got it together and lookd good from s beginner stand point, i used 2x6 for the upper frame and the rest was 2x4 to support a 125 gallon 72x18x24 tank.

My next question is when i push on the front of the tank is has an ever slight sway, nothing i feel that is really a desaster waiting to happen but i would feel better if i could get the sway out and not worry about it all together.

could i put some angled braces in the center support area?
110072121-med.JPG
 
Last edited:
Just wanted to post the tentative design for my 220g (72 x 24 x 30) stand... wanted to know if it would be ok with a 2x4's as the base and 2x6's for the rest of the frame. The stand will be 36" tall.

Red - 2x4
Green - 2x6
Purple - Screw Strip

StandSketch-1.jpg
 
Can the skeleton be built one week.. and then a couple of weeks later, skin it and finish it up? Planning to build a a stand for a 20L.

I know wood dries up once you take it home after it being stacked in those huge piles at HD or Lowes and was wondering if there would be concerns after a couple of weeks wait ..
 
Tswifty8,

If you insist on using 2X6 for the top frame, you will only need one leg located in the center rather then the two legs shown. Also, you do not need 2X6 for legs anywhere in the design. The 2X4 legs are hideously strong all by themselves. Using a 2X4 bottom frame should be just fine.

JOSEPHLB,

For a 20g Long you can get away with a simple plywood stand. The tank is so light there is no need for a 2X frame to support it.

RocketEngineer
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13581561#post13581561 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
Tswifty8,

If you insist on using 2X6 for the top frame, you will only need one leg located in the center rather then the two legs shown. Also, you do not need 2X6 for legs anywhere in the design. The 2X4 legs are hideously strong all by themselves. Using a 2X4 bottom frame should be just fine.

RocketEngineer
Thank you for the response.

So you're saying that I could make the whole stand out of 2x4's and be ok?

I thought 2x6's were required, which is why I added them in the design. If 2x4's allone will suffice, then I am more than willing to build the entire stand out of 2x4's.
 
Tswifty8,

2X6's or larger are only required for the top frame if you don't have any center supports. Since you do have center supports you actually only have a 36" long span that needs to be supported. That being the case a 2X4 top frame with a center support is actually sufficiently strong to support a 220g. The thing to remember is that it REQUIRES the center support so understand that removing it later is potentially disastrous.

2X4s are all that is needed for legs unless you use something other then 2X lumber for the top frame. The legs are not the limiting factor, the span of the horizontal beams is the limiter.
 
Ok... thank you for the clarification.

The back supports will be permanent, however I would like the front to be removable in order to slide a sump in and out if the need be.

I think I'll use 2x6's for the top frame just to be safe, and will plan on using 2x4's for the legs.

Thanks again :)
 
37g stand questions

37g stand questions

Registered Member

I'm starting a build for a 37g oceanic (24"widex18"deep x 20" tall).
I'm wondering about building the stand to maximize sump space by eliminating some of the legs and bracing in the template at the beginning of this thread, since its a small tank without a large span.
2x4 uprights, 3/8" ply top and bottom, but no '2x4 box' at the bottom. Would it be sturdy enough?
My only concern would be twisting/spreading of the legs, but I'm betting screwing the bottom ply up into the legs should be enough.
See the crude sketch in my gallery
 
bnmir- i'm building a stand for my 55 with 1x4's, it'll be plenty. u could defintely use 1x4s.
 
Rocket, if I have to build a stand that's 84" long, can I:
a. use a 2 x6 for the top frame w/ one center support?
b. use a 2x4 for the top frame w/ two center supports?
I shouldn't have a need to access the undertank portion for equipment, so support(s) is no big deal for me.
Thanks,
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13423983#post13423983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 2004jetta
I just recently built a stand for a 60*36*22 tank. I used 2x6 for the upper frame and 2x4 for everything else. The tank will be an inwall with both 60" sides being displayed. drywall will take place of plywood on one side and the other side will have cabinets. I placed 3 center cross peices and a extra leg in the middle. Does anyone see a problem with this design?

Also The top of my 2x4 legs weren't exactly the same height and I had to use wide wood shims to get them to contact the upper frame, will this be an issue?

RE, thanks so much for helping all of us out

anyone?
 
Ok, I look at my last response and thought I should have said more then just one sentence.

I used a shim between the upper frame and leg and haven't experienced any problems. Once the tank is full, the leg and shim will be in compression so as long as it's put in properly it won't "pop" out. As long as the shim is small 1/8" or something like that, it sounds ok. If the shim is something huge like 1/2", then it's probably a good idea to take things apart and just make a better leg.
 
Question for you guys: I am currently building my stand for my 100g acrylic. I have the top frame and bottom frames made, but am not sure exactly how high I should make the stand. The tank demensions are 48"L X 24"D X 20"T. I was thinking maybe 35" or 36" tall, what do you guys think?

Thanks in advance,
Matt
 
Any tips on using a mini Kreg Jig would be appreciated...

Also, is it required to use the brand name "Kreg" pocket screws.. or can any self tapping, wood-to-wood type of screw work?
 
A couple of quick questions as I will be starting a new stand shortly.

1) Would it be bad to have the stand EXACTLY the size of the tank. The reason I ask is that it will be a full glass bottom and so I'll need the plywood top, the tank is going to be 48"X24" and you can buy those pre-cut at home depot. If necessary though I'll buy the full sheet and get it cut to 49"x25" to give me some "wiggle room".

2) Is the 1/2" sheet of insulating styrofoam sitting between the bottom glass and the plywood still a recommended idea or a bad idea?

Thanks
 
What I am doing is skinning the sides, back and front first then putting the top on. This way the hardwood ply that I use will be extending by its thinkness. Therefore the stand will measure an inch larger (1/2" x 2) each way than the frame (frame for me is exactly 48" X 24" - exactly what my tank is) so total it will be 49" X 25" due to the 1/2" thick ply tacted onto the total of the frame itself. As for the styrofoam, I will be using that as well (my tank is acrylic) and yes it is recommended for acrylic, and I believe any tank that does not have a plastic rim around the bottom.

I do have a question though for anyone how can answer: has anyone used MDF for the top of their stand before? I think it would be a great idea since it is so very striaght by nature; that is as long as you assure you paint it with a good water proof sealer. What do you guys think? Should I stick with a nice hardwood top?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top