DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[randomworker]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13792850#post13792850 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lifes A Beach
With Rocket's original design using 2x4's, what size screws should be used?

How about a 2 or 2-1/2" inch screw for the 2x4's? That's what I used when I put mine together.

 

[irish02bk]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13815717#post13815717 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by randomworker
So you're saying...

The 75 gallon would be on the front cross beam and back cross beam,
The 55 gallon would be on the front cross beam and middle cross beam?

Yes your correct... although i htink my numbers where off... 12 inches from the front for the 55 and 18 inches would be the 75.... would i need legs on the ends for the middle?

 

[EvMiBo]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13823844#post13823844 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by irish02bk
Yes your correct... although i htink my numbers where off... 12 inches from the front for the 55 and 18 inches would be the 75.... would i need legs on the ends for the middle?

I've been thinking of something similar because I know I'll want to upgrade my 55 to a 75 soon enough.. I think the middle leg on both sides isnt totally necessary but it couldn't hurt.

You could also have two supports going in 2 1/2 inches on the front and back for the 55g, might look better..

Like this:

 

[james3370]

i want to build a stand to hold 2 tanks on 1 stand.....

* oceanic 50 that is externally 30x18
* biocube 29 that is externally 21x21

so i'm thinking to give myself good spacing side to side between the tanks & have enough room depth-wise, i'll make the stand 60w x 24d.

my question is this.....since the tanks won't be sitting on the edges & i don't want legs in the middle inside the stand, how should i frame it??? i do plan on puttin a 3/4" piece of oak across the top to make it solid

* (3) 2x8 cross members (the upper blue board)
* 2x8 upper rails (the red boards)
* both of the above
* something other (please explain)

 

[james3370]

anybody on my questions??

 

[David - Miami]

Rocket's design is based on all 4 corners being supported directly. You can not support one end and not the other with his design. You would need to create 2 boxes below the two tanks and then have the support for each corner. That can be joined as one box, but it would have to have some support at each tank.
I hope that makes sense.

 

[james3370]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13844441#post13844441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David - Miami
Rocket's design is based on all 4 corners being supported directly. You can not support one end and not the other with his design. You would need to create 2 boxes below the two tanks and then have the support for each corner. That can be joined as one box, but it would have to have some support at each tank.
I hope that makes sense.

so without doing legs where the corners of the tanks would be, could i double up the red upper rails in 2x6s each & then do multiple blue rail support pieces also doubled up in 2x6???

i'm tryin to avoid having legs in the middle so as to have it all open underneath....but will if absolutely necessary

 

[David - Miami]

That is a different design than this thread. Maybe Rocket will know the answer.

 

[james3370]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13845466#post13845466 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by David - Miami
That is a different design than this thread. Maybe Rocket will know the answer.

i'm not sure he checks this w/ much frequency, so i think i'll pm him. i was just wondering if anybody had an thoughts....

 

[adunne]

great thread! I too am planning to build a stand using this template but have a question/ need advice.

The stand is for a 20 High. Yup i said 20.. thats all. Under it I have a 30 Long sump. For the 20 to sit on the corners the stand needs to measure 12" to outside edges. The problem is this only leaves 9 inches on the inside edges (width). The 30 sump is 12" wide so it wont fit under the stand.

Can I frame the stand to allow the 30g sump and double up on the red rails to shimmy the top back to fit the 20g? Then im not sure how i would support this. Any Advise?

Its only 20 gallons, so its not going to weigh a ton, just trying to figure out how to fit the sump.

 

[workinman6009]

leebo_28, you are correct, the screws taking the load would be a dangerous situation. For a 4X4 posts without notching, I of a good way to attach the frames to the legs

lag bolts?

 

[JosefDevaty]

So how do you all ensure that the stand is square. I am building the bottom portion of the tank and the diagonals do not measure equally. The pieces of wood all match up perfectly. When a square is placed on the outside corners they all are square. When it is placed on the insides they are not square. I can figure this out nor can I find anything online to help me. What are the tricks you guys use to get it all square and even or does it even matter?

 

[spsfreak]

I used a square on the inside of the frame on my stand. As long as I had the pieces cut to equal length and the 2X4's I used were for the most part straight - everything worked out OK.

 

[LoneRegister]

So where is everyone getting sheet maple and maple doors that they can use for their custom built stands?

 

[spsfreak]

cabinet makers usually have it in large amounts, and usually cheaper than HD, or Lowes.

 

[dogfrog]

So how much smaller has anyone made the stand compared to the tank? The reason I ask is my tank is 72x30x24 and the door opening for the fish room is only 28 wide. Is having a 1” plus overhang from the frame going to kill me? The top will have a ¾” ply top that is just a little bigger then the tank bottom. The ply top will be about 73x31. The frame will be 72x28x36 (aprox). And no.... I would like to not have to build the stand in the room.

 

[schristi69]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13985863#post13985863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JosefDevaty
So how do you all ensure that the stand is square. I am building the bottom portion of the tank and the diagonals do not measure equally. The pieces of wood all match up perfectly. When a square is placed on the outside corners they all are square. When it is placed on the insides they are not square. I can figure this out nor can I find anything online to help me. What are the tricks you guys use to get it all square and even or does it even matter?

Is your square actually square? It is possible for it not to be true. See http://www.newwoodworker.com/fxfrmsqr.html. Also, your lumbar may be slightly warped. Finding a truely straight board in a stack at HD is like finding a needle in a haystack. Corner to corner measurement is the best way to determine square.

 

[LoneRegister]

Stand pics:

Original Plans:
(modified for only 3 2x4's across the top)

Actual Build

Viewing up from the bottom - seeing the (3) 2x4 supports.

2x6's on top (with 3 2x4's supporting center). 2x4 base.

plan is to have a 260-270 gallon tank on this. 3000 lbs or so.
The tank will be supported on the square part only. NOT on the angle part.

Tank will be approx 59W x 28D x 36H


Thanks for the thread and stand information!

 

[OCEAN SIZE]

LoneRegister - Im a couple steps behind you. I totally agree with your use of L-brackets.

I don't understand why I see people drilling in at angles into the wood here.

There are large, thick, solid steel framing brackets used in housing, much less joist frames, that seem designed to NOT BREAK ever, with the weight of a house on them.

I've seen the L-brackets as crucial in standmaking from my own conjecture.

I haven't started building yet and none of my degrees have anything to do with engineering, but it seems like common sense to go with *real* building materials rather than PITA screwdriver gimmicks.

Not trying to insult anyone here... I just follow the logic of the above stand better than some of the others. I'm also looking for feedback as I'm about to join you guys in this endeavour.

Great thread and thanks to all who have contributed to it.

 

[spsfreak]

The only reason I use an angle drill in is to help sturdy up the particular piece until glue drys (which quite frankly with this type of stand build it really isn't needed) and to help keep things alined a bit. The angle or toe in method is not that sturdy and shouldn't be used for any kind of support IMO, again for me it's just a temporary thing. Here is my finished project with a few steps of how it was built: