DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Build pics so far:

DSCN0897.jpg


DSCN0898.jpg


DSCN0896.jpg


I just picked up $100 worth of oak 1X and trim and Killz tonight (i think thats the most ive spent so far on this), so as i get time throughout the week it should start getting better. I'm apprehensive about cutting all this expensive lumber since this is my first wood project, any pointers with the trim and 1X4/1X6?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15426887#post15426887 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
Build pics so far:

DSCN0897.jpg


DSCN0898.jpg


DSCN0896.jpg


I just picked up $100 worth of oak 1X and trim and Killz tonight (i think thats the most ive spent so far on this), so as i get time throughout the week it should start getting better. I'm apprehensive about cutting all this expensive lumber since this is my first wood project, any pointers with the trim and 1X4/1X6?
Click to expand...

Any reason why you opted to use the zinc l shaped brackets/nailers? I would be afraid those are going to rust and I wouldn't think the stand needs them after building on myself.

I didn't use nailing strips just pocket hole screws and a few screws through each of corner boards.

Cheers,
Alex
 
The brackets really squared things up for me. Yes corrosion will be a concern, but this tank will only be set up for a few years. They really could be removed now that I have the top and bottom frames on their to hold things together.

Thanks for the concerns though, criticism is welcome :)
 
Is rocket engineer still checking on this thread? I was wondering his thoughts on my 96x24x48 tank. I believe 2x8's will work but should I use screws or carriage bolts?

On a side note anyone have a good source for unfinsihed doors perferrably oak to match the skin I am going to put on the outside of the stand?

Also where do you guys get that jig to make pockets for the screws?
 
Suzukibusa06,

Any tank longer then 6' needs to seriously consider a center leg. In your case with an 8' span, even a 2X12 deflects more then I consider acceptable. For this reason, a center leg is required and by doing so a 2X6 or 2X8 top frame would be acceptable. Carriage bolts are typically used when the strength of the bolt is needed to carry load. For this design, the load is carried directly by the wood so coated decking screws are more then sufficient.
 
Sorry busa, I didn't realize you were asking about not using vertical studs. That would be a problem lol...

I just got done applying the 2nd coat of killz, now i am waiting for that to dry and i can start on the finishing!
 
RocketEngineer Thanks for the reply!

I planned on a center leg for sure. I wanted to put two legs on the backside and one in the front a little off center to put the sump under the tank. I may or may not put the sump under there I am not sure.
My plan is to build the entire stand out of 2x8 and skin it with 3/4 oak plywood. I have a couple of questions though.

1. Since I want the tank flush with the oak plywood is it okay to leave the width 3/4 short and let the plywood make it up essentially bearing some of the weight?
2. Where do I find this "Kreg Jig" that is a good one?
3. What size screws would you reccomend for my 2x8 application?


Man those doors are nice expensive though but nice. I need basically 6 of them. I may use that link any other links that may be cheaper?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15431612#post15431612 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Suzukibusa06
RocketEngineer Thanks for the reply!

I planned on a center leg for sure. I wanted to put two legs on the backside and one in the front a little off center to put the sump under the tank. I may or may not put the sump under there I am not sure.
My plan is to build the entire stand out of 2x8 and skin it with 3/4 oak plywood. I have a couple of questions though.

1. Since I want the tank flush with the oak plywood is it okay to leave the width 3/4 short and let the plywood make it up essentially bearing some of the weight?
2. Where do I find this "Kreg Jig" that is a good one?
3. What size screws would you reccomend for my 2x8 application?


Man those doors are nice expensive though but nice. I need basically 6 of them. I may use that link any other links that may be cheaper?
Click to expand...
Hi Suzukibusa06,

I'll let RocketEngineer or some one else with more experience answer the first question. You probably could put the tank on the plywood but I have never done it that way. Some where in this thread there are a few folks who posted plywood stands and how to do it. I would think that by putting your tank on the plywood you negate the need/ use of the 2xs. Might want to consider skinning with 1/4" and use some thin trim and wrap it around the top. Just a thought.

Kreg Jigs can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, and just about any hardware store. If you get one, use the screws they recommend. They have a special head to hold the pieces of wood together without sinking the screw deeper into the wood. There are course threaded screws for soft wood and fine threaded screws for hard wood

I used 2 1/2 to 3 " drywall screws for my 2x construction just to make sure the joints would hold. This was in addition to the Kreg screws. If you get a Kreg style jig you must get the size screw they recommend based on the thickness of your wood.

You mentioned using all 2x8 to make your stand. You only really need the 2x8 for the top frame the tank will be resting on. You can use 2x4s for the bottom frame and for the legs. If you use 2x8s for the bottom frame it will narrow the opening into your stand. I figured this out the hard way and now I have a new work bench :o . HTH

Chris
 
here is the kreg. there are other more expensive versions that can be found at sears, home depot, lowes & various online places
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs....EndecaDataBean@5dcaa8f9&ddkey=THDStoreFinder

home depot has a no-name one that i got for 29.99 i think. it has the clamp built-in, unlike that kreg above that you have to clamp on however. the no-name one i got works great :)

*edit* found the no-name one on their site:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100651825
 
Team,
After reading this thread in it's entirety I have one question not yet asked. How does one compensate for load bearing supports not being placed directly under the load?

Example-
100 gallon Rubbermaid sumps (53x32x25) has a wider foot print than the 265g tank above (84x24x30) Total dimensions of the "stand" will be ~16ftx 36"x36" so the tank placement will "split the difference" in that it would be in the approximate center of the build out. My only thought is that the actual location of the tank would have to be overbuilt 2x10's 3/4" ply etc, and the peripherals could be reduced in beef, but this does not directly support the corner loads. Anyone...Anyone?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15442136#post15442136 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newtank
Team,
After reading this thread in it's entirety I have one question not yet asked. How does one compensate for load bearing supports not being placed directly under the load?

Example-
100 gallon Rubbermaid sumps (53x32x25) has a wider foot print than the 265g tank above (84x24x30) Total dimensions of the "stand" will be ~16ftx 36"x36" so the tank placement will "split the difference" in that it would be in the approximate center of the build out. My only thought is that the actual location of the tank would have to be overbuilt 2x10's 3/4" ply etc, and the peripherals could be reduced in beef, but this does not directly support the corner loads. Anyone...Anyone?
Click to expand...
The first thought that comes to mind is a joist system like the 2xs of a floor resting on the sill. Build the stand the size you need to house the 100 g sump, and then put the joists on top. Then maybe topped with plywood to dispurse the weight of the tank over the joists? I'm sure this would be over kill.
 
Sorry if this has been posted already but, I have built the stand already, and was wondering if I should place a piece of plywood on the top of the stand for the tank to rest on, instead of having it just rest on the edges of the stand. It would seem to me this would help distribute the weight of the tank, and help it stay level.

Thoughts?
 
@ agent - If your tank is a 'store bought' typical tank with the plasctic edging\molding along the bottom, you do not have to use the plywood - although it would be ok. If you have a custom tank that is a flat bottom with no eding\molding then it is a must, along with some type of foam on top of the ply wood.
 
Yea I believe it's a standard AGA dual-overflow 120G tank. the 2x4's that make up the top box frame aren't exactly level across the top so I figured plywood would help this too.

thanks.
 
I am planning to use this design to build a stand for my 24"x 24" x 18" rimless tank. I want to use a tank that is 24.5" L x 12.5 w for my sump. What modifications would I need to use in order to make the inside dimensions large enough to fit the sump? I will be using 1/2" birch plywood for the top and bottom and to skin the outside.

Thanks,

Ellen
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15460345#post15460345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ento-reefer
I am planning to use this design to build a stand for my 24"x 24" x 18" rimless tank. I want to use a tank that is 24.5" L x 12.5 w for my sump. What modifications would I need to use in order to make the inside dimensions large enough to fit the sump? I will be using 1/2" birch plywood for the top and bottom and to skin the outside.

Thanks,

Ellen
Click to expand...
The first thought that comes to mind is a joist system like the 2xs of a floor resting on the sill. Build the stand the size you need to house the 100 g sump, and then put the joists on top. Then maybe topped with plywood to dispurse the weight of the tank over the joists? I'm sure this would be over kill.
 
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