DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Rhodes19]

Here is my stand used this the get the basic design started. I still have to get the sides on and get the bottom trim on also finish the doors which are going to follow the curve of the front of the aquarium.

Sweet!. Nicely done. I like how you did the curve. One day I will have to try making curves out of wood. Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[scott26]

Yea I actually got the idea from another guy that has the same aquarium as me all you do is cut notches every 1/4 inch and it wood will bend to what you need for the most part and you also need lots of glue

 

[DivineStler]

I'm contemplating taking the plunge and building my own stand (using this thread as a guide) and your stand is almost exactly what I would like to try and build. Could you please provide some more information regarding the tools, materials, any special techniques, etc. that you used? I've never done any woodworking so obviously I can use any help I can get.

I'm also very inexperienced when it comes to word working (or anything blue collar for that matter). All I did was use the plans from the first post with my own measurements. I used 2 x 4's that I cut with my skill saw. Attached it all together with wood glue and wood screws (I pre-drilled the holes with my power drill). After building the frame and making sure it was level I bought a nice sheet of birch ply and had it cut to size at home depot (I don't have a table saw). I stained the panels ebony and then sealed with marine grade polyurethane. Finally I grabbed a couple magnetic door holders (in the cabinet aisle of a hardware) and attached to all three of the panels.

Whole thing cost maybe 100$ to make. Took about a day and a half with many a beer break in between!

Good luck.

 

[snaza]

Is there any type of hinges that will enable me to use 2 full lenght doors on the front? I just want 2 panels on the front. I had a look at the hardware but seens like i can only use magnet clips.

thanks

 

[reefermad619]

What's the max height I could get out of a 49"Lx19"W stand? I would love to go 38" high, but I'm worried the increased deflection wouldn't be worth the extra 2". I was orginally planning on 36"H. I'm going to use 2x6 for the top section and 2x4 for everything else. This will be for an 80 gallon tank. I know I could use 2x4s for the whole thing, but when in doubt... gas it! I would rather have way too much than not enough. I figure I could put extra braces in the top and bottom square sections (blue pieces in og drawing) to add some rigidity to the stand. What to you guys think?

I don't remember getting a response to this. Forgot to add that it will be skinned in 3/4 inch oak boards and 3/4 inch oak ply.

 

[RyanTurner]

In progress pic of my spring break project...most college kids are down in Florida, but i'm too addicted to reefing :thumbsup:

Thank you for this forum!

Oh, not to mention I think this is my first RC post.

 

[RocketEngineer]

reefermad619, height isn't really a limiting factor. The 2X4 uprights are 10 times stronger then necessary to support the tanks we typically put on these types of stands. Just make sure that you support the stand all around to give it a nice stable support. If you shim, put shims along the entire side, not just in the corners. Cedar shakes are cheap and a bundle will last you and your kids.

RyanTurner,
Looks good. Would you mind discussing where/how you got your doors for folks who would rather buy them then make their own?

Keep the build pics coming. Its always nice to see how different people use the same starting point.

RocketEngineer

 

[benihana]

nice job Ryan! Glad to see you found the thread!

 

[RyanTurner]

RyanTurner,
Looks good. Would you mind discussing where/how you got your doors for folks who would rather buy them then make their own?

RocketEngineer

No problem, thanks again for these plans. I found the doors in the cabinetry section of Menards. They have 3 different styles, and three different sizes, ranging from 12-36 dollars.

nice job Ryan! Glad to see you found the thread!

Yea, no idea why I haven't posted on here before, when I'm not on TCMAS, I'm on here. :rollface:

Ryan

 

[crvz]

Greetings, folks. I had some questions about a stand for a 300 gallon tank (72" x 36" footprint). This tank will be an in wall build, and I'm trying to optimize as much as I can. Here's my current design, an iteration of the one at the beginning of this thread.

This uses a 2x8 (blue) horizontal support, 2x6 (green) and 2x4 (green) vertical supports, and 2x4 screw strips. Each leg (4 pieces) will be glued together after planing and jointing each component (I've done this in the past, and it's yielded incredibly stable results). The height of this will be about 42", and will be integrated into the current structure of the home. The feet will sit directly on concrete in my garage.

the idea is to stick a sheet of 3/4" oak or birch plywood over the stand and wall framework, allowing 8" of hangover on each end to allow me to stand on it for tank maintenance. The tank would then sit directly on the plywood.
And then here are a couple images (click for larger versions) to show more of what I described in text.



the questions.

1) Will the 2x8's assembled in this fashion be adequate to support a tank of this size?

2) I want to leave the space under the tank as open as possible for the sump/other hardware... do I need a middle vertical brace?

3) Will painting the vertical supports be adequate considering that I'm setting them directly on concrete, or is it highly recommended to use treated lumber?

 

[scott26]

Okay I got my stand done and now that I am re reading this thread again I am seeing that all the pocket screws that you guys are using have at least a 1.5" - 2" gap from hole to the bottom of the piece of wood mine only has like a 1/2" is this a problem also now that I have re read it again I relized I used tapered deck screws to assemble the frame with the pocket jig.... I have a feeling this may not be safe what would you guys recommend? Restart?

 

[RocketEngineer]

crvz,
1) That design is more then acceptable for the size tank you are describing. The overall structure looks well thought out.

2) Since the top frame is only 72" long and you have pieces on both sides of the corner, you only have about 62" between the legs (72" -1.5"*2 - 3.5"*2). Given this span, you should have no need for a center brace.

3) Personally, I don't like wood on concrete. Both materials are porous and since the concrete is right on the ground, it will wick moisture into the end grain of the wood. Consider putting something like tar paper or better yet a small piece of vapor barrier under the legs before you place them. Then again anything that will resist moisture and the pressure of the tank will help it last longer. If there is some form of barrier to moisture, regular lumber would be my recommendation.

scott26,
I would consider looking at the pocket hole jig. The Kreg jig that I have used has a specific stop point on the drill for the thickness of material but the hole always intersects the wood at the same distance from the end of the piece. If you used screws that have a taper under the head, you need to start over as this will split the wood at the bottom of the hole.

RocketEngineer

 

[scott26]

crvz,
1) That design is more then acceptable for the size tank you are describing. The overall structure looks well thought out.

2) Since the top frame is only 72" long and you have pieces on both sides of the corner, you only have about 62" between the legs (72" -1.5"*2 - 3.5"*2). Given this span, you should have no need for a center brace.

3) Personally, I don't like wood on concrete. Both materials are porous and since the concrete is right on the ground, it will wick moisture into the end grain of the wood. Consider putting something like tar paper or better yet a small piece of vapor barrier under the legs before you place them. Then again anything that will resist moisture and the pressure of the tank will help it last longer. If there is some form of barrier to moisture, regular lumber would be my recommendation.

scott26,
I would consider looking at the pocket hole jig. The Kreg jig that I have used has a specific stop point on the drill for the thickness of material but the hole always intersects the wood at the same distance from the end of the piece. If you used screws that have a taper under the head, you need to start over as this will split the wood at the bottom of the hole.

RocketEngineer

I was afaird of that as least I didnt get to far but it did split the corners a little I am just going to start over and hopfully reuse what I can and do it the orginal way.

Do you think I can salvage the frame still If I reenforce it with the inner uprights that you use on your orginal stand? then drill those into the top and bottom 2x4?

 

[scott26]

What do you think rocket?

 

[HOBrien]

Well here is a pic of the stand I just built but isnt finished with the trim and such on it.

 

[Rhodes19]

Yea I actually got the idea from another guy that has the same aquarium as me all you do is cut notches every 1/4 inch and it wood will bend to what you need for the most part and you also need lots of glue

Lots of clamps too I would imagine.

 

[puggsli1]

Hello, I'm getting ready to build a stand and I have a couple of questions.
The tank I will be ordering is a rimless 40x24x22 with a center internal overflow on the back. I would like the stand to be 45x26x35 (or do you have a better idea), would 2x4’s for the frame work or would I need 2x6’s? Also how thick would the top of the stand need to be ¾ or ½ and ½ for the front and 2 sides. I also plan on leaving the back of the stand open since it is going to butting up to the wall and planning on one pull out door on the front and one on the right side for easy access. Any help would be great.

 

[scott26]

Lots of clamps too I would imagine.

Yea about 8

 

[TheFishMan65]

puggsli1,

From what I read. First question glass or acrylic. If glass no top sheet is needed, just make sure the edges are framed. You don't need 2x6 a 2x4 will work for less than 48 inches. I still have not heard a good answer about the sides. I don't think they are structural. Rocket can I get a firm answer here? Thanks! I did a similar design and the side are attached with heavy duty velcro and are made from luan (however that is spelled) plywood witch is 1/4 inch thick.

 

[scott26]

Rocket,

I will have to get some pictures up later tonight on the "split" I was talking about... because it may not be what you are thinking of it didn't actually split the 2x4 itself it just removed the wood on the outside of the pocket if that makes sense pictures will prolly help clearify.

-Scott