DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[socalchris]

i'd like to try building a simple stand for my 40BR. i used the calculator at garf and it seems easy enough.

if i will only be doing the 2x4 method with no skin/doors, would it be reasonable to assume i could just drill all the 2x4's inside of my apartment? or would i be better off doing this outside and moving it in?

 

[Rhodophyta]

i'd like to try building a simple stand for my 40BR. i used the calculator at garf and it seems easy enough.

if i will only be doing the 2x4 method with no skin/doors, would it be reasonable to assume i could just drill all the 2x4's inside of my apartment? or would i be better off doing this outside and moving it in?

I doubt if the calculator at GARF has been fixed. It has been messed up for years and they don't seem to understand how to fix it. Basically the calculator makes the front of the stand the top, so your boards are attached the wrong way for proper support. Try the one here that started this thread. It may have some quirks, but putting the boards together so they stay together is a good idea.

If you can calculate on paper, try this article.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_stand2.php

The advantage of the old method of thinking through the design is that it emulates the old carpenter adage, measure twice, cut once.

 

[bob21115]

I doubt if the calculator at GARF has been fixed. It has been messed up for years and they don't seem to understand how to fix it. Basically the calculator makes the front of the stand the top, so your boards are attached the wrong way for proper support. Try the one here that started this thread. It may have some quirks, but putting the boards together so they stay together is a good idea.

If you can calculate on paper, try this article.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_stand2.php

The advantage of the old method of thinking through the design is that it emulates the old carpenter adage, measure twice, cut once.

Which stand calculator isn't working at Garf? I just used the large fancy calc a few weeks ago and it worked fine.

 

[socalchris]

I doubt if the calculator at GARF has been fixed. It has been messed up for years and they don't seem to understand how to fix it. Basically the calculator makes the front of the stand the top, so your boards are attached the wrong way for proper support. Try the one here that started this thread. It may have some quirks, but putting the boards together so they stay together is a good idea.

If you can calculate on paper, try this article.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_stand2.php

The advantage of the old method of thinking through the design is that it emulates the old carpenter adage, measure twice, cut once.

I'm not sure I understand when you say "it makes the front of the stand the top."

Here's their image that I'm going off of:

Are you saying that the "Top Frame" is actually NOT a view of the top frame as if you were looking down at it?

 

[Rhodophyta]

I'm not sure I understand when you say "it makes the front of the stand the top."

Here's their image that I'm going off of:

Are you saying that the "Top Frame" is actually NOT a view of the top frame as if you were looking down at it?

I'm saying it would work better laid on its back with the front as a top frame than the way it is.

If you built a stand the way the GARF plans show, you would be hanging the top frame like a picture on a wall. The legs are alongside the top frame instead of under it. Screws in softwood tear out pretty easily when the force is sideways. Flip the GARF stand over on its back and it begins to look like how a stand could work. The legs would be under the frame where they would give support. Missing some frame ends would be better than legs that could tear loose and pop up through the bottom of the tank. I got a deal on a tank that had happened to.

Maybe this will give you the concept. Put your elbow on the desk and make a fist aimed vertically. Hold your other hand flat and set your palm on top of your fist. Pretty solid support. Then slide your palm off your fist until only the fingers are on your fist, and then the finger tips slide down alongside your fist. Not much support then, is there? You want to build palm on fist, not fingernails trying to hang on to the side of the fist.

:hammer:Maybe they've fixed it.:lolspin: No they didn't. I looked.

 

[socalchris]

I'm saying it would work better laid on its back with the front as a top frame than the way it is.

If you built a stand the way the GARF plans show, you would be hanging the top frame like a picture on a wall. The legs are alongside the top frame instead of under it. Screws in softwood tear out pretty easily when the force is sideways. Flip the GARF stand over on its back and it begins to look like how a stand could work. The legs would be under the frame where they would give support. Missing some frame ends would be better than legs that could tear loose and pop up through the bottom of the tank. I got a deal on a tank that had happened to.

Maybe this will give you the concept. Put your elbow on the desk and make a fist aimed vertically. Hold your other hand flat and set your palm on top of your fist. Pretty solid support. Then slide your palm off your fist until only the fingers are on your fist, and then the finger tips slide down alongside your fist. Not much support then, is there? You want to build palm on fist, not fingernails trying to hang on to the side of the fist.

:hammer:Maybe they've fixed it.:lolspin: No they didn't. I looked.

Great explanation. I see what you're saying. The "uprights" or supports should be under the frame for the maximum support.

This doesn't really change the building materials though right? The garf plans called for 4 2x4x30 for a 30" tall. If I used the same materials, I could just use the same 30" uprights. The stand would only be another 3.5" taller?

 

[spllbnd2]

I am curious, what would people consider the optimal height for a stand that will have a 65 high on it?

I was thinking of doing the stand at 36" but it seems that may be to tall. The tank deminsions 36W x 24H x 18 D.

Any advise would help as the prefabbed stand I got with the trade is going to the garbage and I will be starting on my stand this weekend. Prefer something a tad over 30"

Cheers,
Alex

 

[Barfly]

I am curious, what would people consider the optimal height for a stand that will have a 65 high on it?

I was thinking of doing the stand at 36" but it seems that may be to tall. The tank deminsions 36W x 24H x 18 D.

Any advise would help as the prefabbed stand I got with the trade is going to the garbage and I will be starting on my stand this weekend. Prefer something a tad over 30"

Cheers,
Alex

It's really a matter of personal preference. My tank will be set up on a 42" stand and is 24" tall as well. My last tank stand was 48". Sure it makes it harder to get in the tank, but it sure does look A LOT nicer sitting up high. Besides, it's nothing a step stool can't take care of.

 

[zues2006]

How tall is typical for a 55 gallon build?

 

[rkaragozler]

Hello RC.
I have read every post on this thread and I'm ready to tackle my own stand build, there were only 2 posts about a 72 bow front build, but I could not get any info on it.
I have a 175 Bow that I would like to build the stand for, but I'm a little confused as how to create the bow. My tank dimensions are 72 1/2" long, 17 3/4" on the sides, 24 1/2" on the bow, and 29 1/4" high. I would like the stand to be 38" high. Any help would be appreciated. this is what I am trying to achive.

 

[bigffish]

this is a good quality way of going about it, it is what I plan on "STAND U-BUILD", its on GARFS website. Copy and paste it to your browser

 

[David - Miami]

this is a good quality way of going about it, it is what I plan on "STAND U-BUILD", its on GARFS website. Copy and paste it to your browser

I think you forgot to link or put your photo.

 

[kv2wr1]

Here is my frame.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14201153#post14201153

Now here is my finished stand.

With the doors open.

Thanks Rocket!

John

Quick question regarding skinning. I plan on using the templete and skinning the tank like the one pictured.

My question is:

Do the inner green and blue support boards need to be flush (longer) with the red and yellow framing boards height wise to get it too be like in the picture that jpc763 posted or do I cut out some plywood and inlay it until it is at the same height as the red and yellow boards?

My worry is that if I just lay plywood on top of the red and yellow boards is that it would cave in in the middle.

 

[TheFishMan65]

kv2,

Is the tank glass or acrylic? If glass no inner support is needed (nor is plywood). If Acrylic it is my understanding that a support is needed every 2 feet or so and must be flush so it supports the plywood.

The green boards are only there to make construction easier.

 

[kv2wr1]

kv2,

Is the tank glass or acrylic? If glass no inner support is needed (nor is plywood). If Acrylic it is my understanding that a support is needed every 2 feet or so and must be flush so it supports the plywood.

The green boards are only there to make construction easier.

Thanks FishMan. It will be Acrylic.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Never done acrylic, but from what I read here they need extra support on the bottom. Good luck

 

[nebraskareef]

RocketEng,
This is a post from before the split of the thread, no matter how much i measured and tried to cut the legs all the same length i have some gaps like in the picture below, i am trying to fill them with wood glue or epoxy as i glued all of my joints together before i screwed them together so disassembly is not an option. The stand is per your OP it is 72x24x40 , will the weight of the tank once full of water "settle out the gaps" or will it cause stress points when it does? I will try to post some pictures of my gaps later, however they are just like in the picture below some are flush and some are an 1/8" - 1/16" gap, your thoughts...???

I noticed the following picture and was curious because my stand also has these little inconsistincies. if you look at the corner that is closest to you in this picture there is a space showing between the top horizontal support and that corners 2x4 vertical supports. I assume since they are screwed to the strips that they cant settle out once the tank is on there with some water. I guess i wonder how much deflection like this is okay. I planned on firming everything up, sanding to make it level and then putting on the top frame and put the tank on half full let it sit, and then take it off and THEN I was going to sand and if nessacary plane it level. This sound okay?

Maybe i'll have to shim it... I just see a space like that and I think thats not really sitting on those 2x4's... thats sitting on those screws.

I've got this same situation going on, and even though we spent ALOT of time measuring and taking time with the cuts on the legs, that I've got some gaps (some fairly large) between the gaps. I consider regular shims, but then thats just pressure. I've glued the whole thing together along with the screws so taking it apart is a daunting task.

I am considering trying to take it apart and cut all the legs again, but I was hoping I could fill the gaps with something. Some of my gaps are about as thick as popsicle sticks in some spots, so I thought that might be an option - popsicle sticks and woodglue. I know how stupid and unreasonable this might sound, but is filling the gaps with either the sticks and glue, or just all wood glue and option? This is a stand for a 180 btw. The legs on the front 2x6 spans are 2x6, the short sides are 2x4's. I also have a 2x4 verticle in the front of the stand, and another 3/4's of the way across the back for sump access. The tank will be in wall.

I really need an answer pretty quick because I need to return my friends saw.

PLEASE, ANYBODY - HELP!

-Daniel

 

[Reefer2727]

Hi Rocket,

I used your design to build a stand for my 75 gallon set up and it came out great. I am now starting to build another stand for another 75 gallon. This time it is going to be an in wall tank. Question is, what should I do different for this stand. Now, because I am going to want the tank to be flush with the drywall on the viewing side, I will not have the room to have the edge of the tank sitting directly over the front rail. Should I just build the stand as designed and have a bit of an overhang to run the tank flush with the drywall? The tank has a plastic rim and I realize that the weight sits on that rim. I was going to put a 3/4 plywood top on the stand. Just wondering if you have any advice for an in wall build?

Thanks

 

[snaza]

Hi,

My floor isn't quite level. About 1/3 inch out at one end. Should I plane the stand to make it not level or just chock up one end to make it level?

thanks

 

[reefermad619]

I think it will be way easier to shim the stand than shaving of wood to make it level. Plus if you ever move the stand, you'll have a stand that is level when removing the shims.