DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Looking at a 120g RR 4x2x2. It has dual corner overflows.

I'm wondering if this stand will get in the way of plumbing those corner overflows at all? Can anyone provide some input? Thanks!
 
How far in are the pipes? The edge sits on a 2xX which is really only 1.5 inches. Then if you do the corner bracing add 1.5 in one direction and 3.5 in the other. Of course the bracing can be a little lower and may give the pipe room to bend. Also if you have a lip then the original 1.5 won;t be quit as far under the tank. IMHO probably not.
 
I dont have the actual tank yet so I was wondering if anyone has a similar tank with this diy stand.

Getting the tank is dependent on being able to build my own stand that has a nice saftey factor of atleast 5 lol
 
IIRC glass holed should be at 1.5 the diameter away from the glass. So if you have 1/2 glass and even 3/4 inch bulkheads need at least a 1 inch hole. The edge of the hole should be 2 inches in. I still think you should be fine.
 
RE... Thanks SO much for this thread... I SUCK at DIY but I decided to try your "basic" stand design.... well attached are the results.... mind you this is no shims, no level when I built it... just blind faith.... and trust me I NEVER build anything level... Thanks again...

Mark
 

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I need a new stand for a 75 gallon tank with a 55 gallon sump. I have based the design off of the information in this thread. But rather than clutter up this thread (just in case it is not cluttered enough) I started a new thread. So if you have a few moments please take a look.

Stand Build 75 gallon w/ 55 sump

Thanks
 
I think I may have gotten lost so I am reposting from my thread. thanks in advance for your opinions.

I have read over and over about not having room to work, or enough room under the tank. I am adding to those problems by having a large sump for the setup. My current stand won't work so I need comments on the new one.

My plan is to have the sump sit on the floor so that I can have as much space above as possible. I have not heard of any problems with this, but if you know of one please speak up.

I also want easy access so all sides will be removable. So will this design support the tank on top. The front top cross piece is missing to try and show more details. The cross pieces are 1x4 the vertical back support 1x6 and the front verticals are 2x4.
picture.php

It going to go in a closet so I can only see the end so front to back issue are not a problem :) Seriously I will add some bracing as I realize this design might blow over in a strong wind. I will take comments on this, but I do realize it is a problem. The main question I am trying to get answered is can this design support the 700+ pounds of tank, water, and rock on top of it?

I also realize that the 75 gallons is not exactly 48x18 and will have to increase the size slightly. I am new to sketch up and it took most of the morning to get this far:)

Thanks for looking.
 
Based on my original premiss that you don't want more the 1/8" of deflection under the distributed load of the tank, a 1X4 is not sufficiently stiff to support a 75g all buy itself. That being said, if you went with a 2X4 or a 1X6 you would be sufficiently stiff to properly support the tank across its length. Also, you want to make sure that the 1X legs are prevented from bowing by adding a second piece perpendicular to the first.
 
Thanks for the reply. I tried to track the information on line, but I guess I did not know how to read the charts. If you did the same thing in plywood would it work? There was some discussion earlier (which is why I thought this worked), but maybe they were referring to plywood which is why I ask. Or maybe they only replace the leg - which is okay as long as you follow the original leg design.

[EDIT]
Maybe a clearer question is how do the major manufacturers get away with press board?

[EDIT 2]
If I went with 2x4 legs would I need to worry about bowing?
 
Last edited:
What a great thread, I wish we could get it to always be available. OOC why is it that only 2 pages worth of threads are available anyway??? Unless a thread has activity every day to day and a half it falls off and can only be found be searching...
 
Thread Tools -> Subscribe and the top button MY RC. All your threads can be organized by folders. You can then find what ever you want.

I think the upgrade a couple months back go rid of the long list good and bad. There also used to be a way to get a page with the whole thread in text which was great for searching IIRC - that is what I miss.
 
I'm getting ready to build a stand for my new 300 and was also looking for max room underneath. I was thinking of having the back and two sides made of solid 1" or 3/4" ply with a 2x8 at the four corners running front to back with wedges to keep it square with the back and front. then have a 2x6 running on the sides and back with a single 2x4 brace in the center on the back as the rear part of the support ring. Across the front could I get away with 2 2x6's with no brace (the preferred method) or would I be better off with 2 2x4's with a center brace?

One of the other design elements is the actual cabinet will be ~40 inches front to back (the front of tank support will be in the right place) so that I can get a 36" tank under it front to back to use as the sump / fuge. The tank will sit to the very back of the stand with a lip at the front to allow the sump to fit.

It will have a top on it as well if that makes a difference.

TIA
 
yea I'm subscribed this thread is just so informative that unless a new person checked on the right day they may not see it.

I vote a sticky :)
 
little more design work and an attempt that I won't bother showing in sketch up. Need opinions before I start.

Tank is 300 deep dimension actual OD size 72 1/4 x 36 1/8

Stand will be OD 73 3/4 x 40 x 36 (high)

looking at 1/2" ply top and bottom

back and sides will have 1" ply

Support will be as follows

Sides 3 x 2x8's each side Do I need a center back or center front with the following?

Top ring will be a 2x8 on sides and back with 2x 2x6 on the front

Will also have 2x 2x4 cross braces from front to back evenly spaced on top.

The front 2x6 supports will obviously be right under the front of the tank not at the front of the stand.

I think I'm good but would love for someone else to agree. Also I'm assuming that I don't have to have 2x's facing along the back at the ends and that the ones running along the sides will be good enough to support the rear span especially since we will also screw the rear 2x8 to the ply.

TIA
 
Im trying to understand how you are describing things. If you use a 2X8 top frame you don't need a center brace. The legs are 2X4 no matter what the tank size as they aren't the weakest link. Otherwise, a simple box is all you really need. If you want to have folks look at something more exotic, a picture really is helpful.
 
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