DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Hi Everyone.

Almost finished my stand and just wondering whats the best way to add strength / stability (left to right). Just worried it might tip sidways when full of water. Seems stable but was looking at either putting triangle 4x2 pieces in the 4 corners, or use some metal bracing straps. I dont want to put ply sheets on the back as i need to access plumbing

thanks

anyway here are my pics so far



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Mr. Engineer,

I'm looking to setup an in wall tank with the following dimensions:

72"w X 60"d X 30"h

I'm going to have a contractor build the stand, but am struggling to figure out what is required to support this type of weight. After reviewing the thread I don't see tanks with these dimensions. Also, the garage floor has a VERY slight slope so that adds a trick to the stand.

Would you please advise on the stand build?

Thanks!
Patrick
I found building the top frame as needed, then gauging from the slope in your floor, build each leg individually and do not use a bottom frame. (probably want one w/ weight of this tank( or use larger legs 2x8 opposed to 2x4) Figure out(guess) the highest point and make that leg the exat length you want.....Then make the other 2 or (3) legs a bit longer then neededby say a 1/16"-1/8" and trim to make a perfect level stand. also just do the main legs(the ones supporting the longest span directly) then add the side 2x4's legs after the main legs are level'd.

This is pretty much what i did on a 250g (66x36x24) and it came out perfectly level all directions. I used 2x6 for main legs & 2x4 for the side legs & screw strips. 2x8 main frame, 3/4" plywood, 2x8 main legs & 2x6 or 2x8 side legs would help shorten span and spread load on the floor

If you want to use a bottom frame, then' I would basically make the stand level with the Main legs direct to the floor as above, but 3.5" shorter than required finished heigh as you will be adding the 2x4 bottom frame later. When you add the frame add the screw strips and side 2x4 legs


Not sure on the wood sizes you need, but I would say 2x12's are in order for the main deck if you plan full free span of the 72" length. Or are you planning a center support? Also 2x6 or even 2x8 legs would be nice for a bit extra stability. If you can get by with 57.5" opening? Also I'd go with as thick plywood you could get or double up 2 5/8 or 3/4 sheets, glued together.

Rocket I'm sure will get you exacts. Awesome Footprint by the way!
 
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Mr Rocket..

Ok.. Where to begin.. I want to build a stand for a standard 75g rr tank it is 48.5x18.5x21 the actual hight only really maters is under the stand where the sump goes i need clearence for for a 2 foot skimmer and probbly another 2" or so to remove cup. So here is the ultimate goal.. I already have a standard 55g sump already built..

From the designs i forsee one problen in trying to do this when building the top frame the 75g is not actually going to be setting on the main support if i make the lenght and widt the full support will be outside the tank and the 55 could slide in from the side then becuse of L shaped design of the plans.. I think this could be done.. if its overly complicated then i will take the advice and use a 40g breeder tank and make a new sump. as suggested by my club member.. But i just wanted the biggest sump i could get under the tank becuse i alread had it made.

thanks
neil
 
Hey guys I have a question.

I will be making a stand for a 210g tank but the problem I have is that I want to put 125g tank under it inside the stand. Both are 6 feet long.

Here's a picture to illustrate what I am making, this is 210g with 120g that's only 4' long


Now would it be ok to make stand say half a foot longer than 210's foot print? so instead of 72x24 make it 82x24 that way there will be enough room between the legs to fit a 6' long tank inside

Something like this. Offset it just so at least one side is on the corner but ideally I would like for the top tank to be right above the one below if possible.


I will definitely be putting at least 2 sheets of plywood to cover the top of the stand and can add few more beams going from front to back if that's at all helpful but would that be enough? the beams spanning the length of the stand will be 2x8 btw

Thanks !
 
Hmm like this I think even looks better structurally being much closer to 2x4 posts on each side vs all the way to left or right



Would like an opinion though , again on top I will add few layers of plywood to help with redistribution of weight to the sides
 
in wall stand design

in wall stand design

hi everybody...I'm about to start an in-wall 150g tank and I'm trying to figure out if i can build the stand to get out of the way of my sump. Do you guys think this would work if I use all 2x6 lumber and lots of lag bolts? I'm thinking I could put some back legs of angle iron or something if necessary too. fortunately the wall i'm putting this in is a 2x6 wall so it is beefier than a normal wall. any tips or advice are greatly appreciated!
TankStandmockup.jpg
 
Additional bracing required for 72" x 36" footprint?

Additional bracing required for 72" x 36" footprint?

I'm planning on using this design to build a stand for my new tank. It's going to be a 270, measuring 72"w x 36"d x 24"t. I want to keep the stand on the shorter side (24" or less from the ground to the bottom of the tank), so I'm planning on adding 2 vertical supports along the front and back and use a 2x4 for the top and bottom frames.

My main question is whether or not additional support will be needed due to the 36" width? Will I need to run another beam with a structure similar to the front and back? Anyone else already post about this in the last 100+ pages of this thread and have pics I could use for reference? :)

Any other tips or suggestions? Thanks..

Oh, and I'll be using a basement sump, so no worries about the stand being too short for equipment..

Edit: the tank will be acrylic, and I'm planning on 3/4" plywood for the top.
 
I made my top for my acrylic tank (250g- 66x 36 x 24)with 4 cross supports to support the bottom of the tank. I used 2x6 for the cross supports and 2x8 for the frame. I have no center supports I also used joist hangers to support the cross braces as well as used SS screws thru the fram into the cross supports for some extra structural support. Also used 3/4" plywood deck.

If you go back a few pages I have a few pics.....
 
Added some verticals beams for the back of the stand to help with support a bit. But still unsure if this will be a safe stand for a 210g tank.




Again, the main idea is to fit 2 6' tanks in/on one stand.

Please comment. Thanks you.
 
raidendex, Can you do a removable front support? That would be my advice. I also think that using 2x8 for the top frame would solve the problem, but don't know enough to run the formula - just enough to be dangerous :)

jlylec, IMHO you want front feet.

funny gut, I would do a support in the middle of the front and back and each of the 4 corners.

NOTE: All these are assuming glass tanks.
 
raidendex, Can you do a removable front support? That would be my advice. I also think that using 2x8 for the top frame would solve the problem, but don't know enough to run the formula - just enough to be dangerous :)

Yeah top will be made out of 2x8 and it is a glass tank. As far as center support in the front I'd really rather not do that. I can however once the bottom tank is in place perhaps add two 2x4 on the sides right under the corners of the top tank which basically makes it the original design of this thread on that front panel.

So 2 red vertical beams would be removable.
 
I think that would work. You might contact the tank manufacturer. A while back I found and posted that 4 foot (glass tanks only need to be supported at the ends or in the counters. They said 6 foot needed center support (in your case supplied by the the 2x8). So the only concern I have is the ends? Whay supports do they need?
 
I think that would work. You might contact the tank manufacturer. A while back I found and posted that 4 foot (glass tanks only need to be supported at the ends or in the counters. They said 6 foot needed center support (in your case supplied by the the 2x8). So the only concern I have is the ends? Whay supports do they need?

It would be a used tank so I'm not sure if I'll be able to find manufacturer but as far as tank itself, it will be resting on something through out the perimeter it's the 2x8 beam that goes across that's the issue possibly. Doubt it would could snap just because tank is not over the vertical posts but I'm not sure :) I guess i'll just use those red vertical 2x4s as a removable support on the sides so it's right under the tank's corners. It wouldn't obstruct the view of the lower tank too much so should work for me. And really the only reason they would be removable is in case I ever need to move out the lower tank out of the stand.
 
Fishman...Do you think I need a center front foot, or do you think using the 2x6s will be enough? Or would 2x4s for the sides with 2x6s across be OK? Should I use 4x4s for the feet you think? Thanks for your advice!
 
Can you guys give me some input if the following design would be sound. It is entirely 2x4s. The overall dimensions are 72"w x 36"d x 24"t. I was hoping to avoid using 2x6s for the horizontal pieces in the top and bottom frame because I'm planning on making the stand on the shorter side (24"), and 2x6s would eat up a lot of space and make it hard to access the plumbing in the back.. I could increase the vertical supports to 2x6s without too much trouble though. But, if I did that, I would probably reduce the number of vertical supports to just the corners and one in the middle of each 72" span.. Anyway, please let me know what you think.

Thanks,
-Mike

270stand.jpg
 
According to the OP that will work for a glass tank. Acrylic would need some plywood and maybe better support for the cross braces. For glass tank the OP makes it seem that you could get by with one center vertical support instead of a 2 and it could be a 2x4.
 
It will be an acrylic tank, and I will be putting plywood on the top. I just didn't have the plywood in the drawing, because it would hide the framing below, and I haven't quite figured out how to make items transparent in SketchUp :D

I'm thinking 1/2" plywood on the top...
 
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