DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[TheFishMan65]

I don't know a lot about acrylic, but I would keep to center legs, but turn them 90 degrees so they support the front rails AND the cross braces in the middle. I think is safer. If something shifts and one end breaks free then the center could drop and stress the acrylic. Hope this helps.

 

[funnyguyMI]

I was going to use joist hangers and then screw in from the other side as well, the way 110galreef did..

 

[110galreef]

I was going to use joist hangers and then screw in from the other side as well, the way 110galreef did..

I would add 2-3 more cross braces to share the load since they are only 2x4's and also use 3/4" plywood at least! Also then top w/ 1/2" or 3/4" styrofoam.

FWIW:
Why only a 24" tall stand. a 30", even 36" tall will make viewing a lot more enjoyable, plus leave more options for equipment underneath.

My last stand I had was 30" & ok for a sitting room. But had to bend a bit to look into. Stand I just built had bottom of tank at 40". still not bad reaching in from floor, tho step stool or ladder helps. Perfect for stand viewing and sitting!

 

[TheFishMan65]

That would probably work I just feel more comfortable not relying on screw and nails. If you don't need the extra few inches for sump you might consider it. It would also be cheaper since you won't need t buy joist hangers.

 

[110galreef]

I don't know a lot about acrylic, but I would keep to center legs, but turn them 90 degrees so they support the front rails AND the cross braces in the middle. I think is safer. If something shifts and one end breaks free then the center could drop and stress the acrylic. Hope this helps.

This is an ideal route, if you can live with the extra space they would take up.

They also make double 2x4 joist hangers as I am not sure how much bow a single 2x4 spanning the 36" will bow. Given your tank weight ~say 2600# conservative side, 4 cross braces & the frame, thats about ~ 450# on each single 2x4 cross brace. Maybe a lot?

If you go 30" or taller on stand you could also go 2x6 for the top frame & cross braces.

 

[C-Rad]

I don't know a lot about acrylic, but I would keep to center legs, but turn them 90 degrees so they support the front rails AND the cross braces in the middle. I think is safer. If something shifts and one end breaks free then the center could drop and stress the acrylic. Hope this helps.

Joist hangers probably have a max weight rating that you can look up, and if the amount of weight that will be on each joist hanger is below that rating, then they will work, but they will never be nearly as strong as if you simply put a column of wood under each end of the cross members as suggested above, so why not do it the stronger way? There are other reasons not to use joist hangers:

1) The weight ratings for the joist hangers assume dry wood. If the wood ever gets wet the screws will pull out much more easily, and the joists might not hold. A wet vertical 2x4 will not fail.
2) It's tricky to get the joist hangers to hold the cross members exactly flush with the horizontal frame pieces, so it will be harder to make sure that the plywood is perfectly level.
3) Even galvanized metal will corrode in salt water.​

Joist hangers cost more, aren't as strong, and are vulnerable to salt water. A vertical 2x4 is much more than strong enough to support both a cross member end and the horizontal frame piece at the same time. If you need the wide part of the 2x4 to face the front (to accommodate doors for example) then just add a vertical 2x2 (or 2x3 or 2x4) under each end of each cross piece.

 

[funnyguyMI]

Thanks for the replies guys. You've given me a few things to think on...

24" on-center might be stretching it a bit for the top frame..

I had also considered supporting the top braces with vertical 2x4s, and may.. It would also provide a nail strip for putting together the front vertical supports (though, the weight is still supported by screws in that case..).

I want to keep the stand 24" at a maximum because I will be viewing this tank from a severely reclined position on my couch for the most part Also, it makes working in the tank a LOT easier (no step ladders here!). And, given the depth of the tank (36"), I also wanted to be able to have a good top-down view of the tank. It will be run as an open-top display..

Also, no equipment whatsoever in the stand. I run a basement sump.. I will need to get underneath to the back of the stand for any potential plumbing mis-haps though..

So, back to the [SketchUp]-board.. I'll be back in a day or two with some more designs for you to critique

Also, I'm undecided exactly on how I'll be skinning/finishing the outside of the stand and what sort of shelf/drawer options I want. My focus at this point was getting a stand together that will support the weight, and then see how much room I had for the other stuff..

 

[jonn7919]

Just wanted to show my stand that i built useing some of the specs from this tread.I built it 40inchs high and had one of the designers at my work go over the specs to mnake sure that everything was correct.The tank is a 75gallon with a cornor overflow.Instead of putting working doors on it i made a fake front that is hinged on by magnets and 2 door snaps.So that way if i have to work on the sump i will have plenty of room by just removing the whole front of the stand.Also i used 3/16 wood so that it would be light enough for anyone to remove it.

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[racefan]

OK I just finished read all 56 pages! (yes it took a bit of time:spin2 I'm getting ready to start a stand for a 40 breeder with a 20L sump. I thought I read in one of the posts where 1"x4"s would suffice for that tank.
My concern is putting a screw into the end of that narrow of a board(I do have a pocket hole jig however) also I am wondering about skinning it with MDF vs plywood? I know MDF is not the best vs water but if it's all primed & painted wouldn't it be ok? My thought here is that you can get the MDF a lot smoother with less work.

 

[TheFishMan65]

You missed the first 40 pages or more This thread got splt at least once. Go back to page one post one and click the link for the first section (may have to be repeated) to at least read the very first post.

1x4 should work fine. As long as the MDF has no weight probably also fine if it gets wet no affect on the stand IMHO.

 

[iheartJMS]

Just finished my stand today Thanks to the great info and details from this thread it was simple and easy! Thanks RC, my new favorite site

 

[funnyguyMI]

Nice stand jonn! I really like the doors. Is that real stained glass?

So, I added some more supports to my stand design. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I think that would work.

 

[jonn7919]

Nice stand jonn! I really like the doors. Is that real stained glass?

So, I added some more supports to my stand design. Let me know what you guys think.

The glass is made out of that sticker print that i bought from homedepot.

 

[strout]

I want to use the OP design to build my stand, but have a question: The tank will be a 96x30x25 acrylic. Do I just need to add two (not counting the corners) support braces (floor to tank) in the front and back of the stand? Also, should I use 2x6s or 2x8s to wrap around the bottom and the top of the stand?

 

[TheFishMan65]

As I read th OP and understand acrylics. You probably want a support a minimum of every 24 inches. You will also need cross braces once again at least every 24 inches. Based on this the whole thing can be built with 2x4s.

You could probably also do the top frame with 2x8 and then run a 2x4 vertically across it every 2 feet or more,

Either way top the whole thing with 3/4 inch plywood.

 

[strout]

FishMan,, thanks for the reply.

 

[racefan]

I started my stand for my 40 Breeder. I realize I went a little overbuilt but what the heck. I'm still unsure of if I will have a top or not. Also I'm thinking of 2 doors in front & 1 on the side.
Wood all cut & ready to go

Top & bottom stands. I used 3" Grip Rite Exterior screws(Rust-Oleum treated/lifetime guarantee against rust) & titebond 3 glue to fasten them.

I predrilled all screw holes to prevent the wood from spliting.

I got a Kreg jig jr at Lowes ($39.00) to drill my pocket holes for attaching the uprights.

I had an old sheet of 1/2" MDF laying around from making speaker boxes so I used that for a bottom & sealed all the seams with Bath & Tub caulking.

Here it is assembled & a coat of Killz primer on it.

I'm going to skin it with 1/2" birch plywood & paint it black.
Here's a picture of a little setback. I was working on the stand when my way too old table legs decided to collapse & send me & the stand crashing to the floor. The stand took the brunt of it.

 

[racefan]

Got a little more progress made this weekend. I got it skinned,doors made & painted the inside bright white. Next step is to lay the linoleum on the sump floor,prime the outside with Kilz & paint it black. One design flaw I already noticed but It's too late to correct is the opening in front is 30" and the 20L I'm using for a sump is 30 1/4"(so close but yet so far) otherwise I could just slide the sump straight in.Oh well,if that's all I screw up I'll be more than happy! I kinda cheated with my doors. I used Poplar 1"x2"s, routed a 1/4" groove in them & got a 2'x4' sheet of 1/4" plywood or something like that(cannot recall at the moment what it was) pocket hole drilled them glued them up & they resemble doors! Then I finished trimmed it with a 1"x2" pine board that I used a 3/8" roundover bit on my router.

 

[fishyman12]

Screw Rookie

Screw Rookie

So i have a couple questions. First of all how do i screw in the red to purple and purple to orange? Just big screws? Also is the any way to make sure this works before i put the tank on?Hahah well thank you for your help!