DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[FishF00d]

FishFOOd, when I bought my tank, the stand came with it (so keep in mind, I don't know what I am talking about lol) Shouldn't the tank maker be able to tell you the measurements so you could go ahead and build the stand? I will be ordering my next tank and I would like to get the measurements before the tank comes in, so that I can have the stand ready, thats the reason I am asking.

They should, and all I really need to do is run up to progressive and measure the 65 they have sitting on the floor if I wanted to get started. There is just something about having it at the house and able to double and triple measure that comforts me, and maybe even help visualize what I need or want to do.

 

[nikesb]

I building the top and bottom frames today and the cuts made at home depot were not flush.

should i re-do them? i noticed that all the cuts were not flush cut. I'm thinking of renting a miter saw to save whats left over

 

[DolphinLVR]

Question/Concern!!!!!

As you can tell from my stand measurements vs tank Measurements, I built my stand 2 inches wider. I only have one beam between the front and back and am about to secure the top to the stand.

My question/concern is being that the stand is 2 inches wider, Am I going to be ok with my tank sitting on top? do you think I need to add more braces???

Here is the frame of my stand just built the other day. I still have to do a lil bit of work on it before I skin and stain it!

The stand is built for a 180 Gallon Acrylic tank 72*24*24! I built the stand to be a bit bigger than the tank and the stand is 74*26*36

This Kreg Pocket screw Jig is sweet!

 

[Rhodes19]

Here is the frame of my stand just built the other day. I still have to do a lil bit of work on it before I skin and stain it!

The stand is built for a 180 Gallon Acrylic tank 72*24*24! I built the stand to be a bit bigger than the tank and the stand is 74*26*36

This Kreg Pocket screw Jig is sweet!

Looking good Dolphin. What are you going to skin it with? What kind of stain? +1 with the Kreg Pocket jig. I go one just for the stand (well, other projects too) and it made assembly easier for me. I can't wait to see the final product.

 

[DolphinLVR]

Rhodes _ Do you have any thought on my question/concern about the stand being 2 inches wider than the tank? My fear is that there will not be enough support if I only have the tank sitting on 1/2 of the frame all the way around!

Jeff

 

[DolphinLVR]

I building the top and bottom frames today and the cuts made at home depot were not flush.

should i re-do them? i noticed that all the cuts were not flush cut. I'm thinking of renting a miter saw to save whats left over

IMHO I would definately redo them to where they are as flush as possible

 

[Rhodes19]

Fair enough, although wouldn't a cheap pocket screw jig with 1 bys use less material, be just as simple, allow you to skin it with whatever you wanted and it would be lighter?

Don't get me wrong I built my first stand with 2x4s but that thing was a monster. I'm currently waiting for my tank to come in so I can get exact measurements and start a new stand.

It would, but folks like me with limited woodworking skills and knowledge wouldn't know that. I recall seeing some cheapy manufactured stands made with a lot less and remember thinking "OMG, how is that thin, flimsy thing going to be able to hold all that weight". Well, something like that . I did not trust those stands but having worked construction before (goo-fer, not a builder or carpenter) and I know what 2xs can do in buildings so I felt confident with this build. Since I built it I have seen many beautiful custom stands made from 3/4" oak all the way around with no frame or 2xs and know it can be done. I don't know how yet, but I'll figure it out. For me, this was my first stand, it was easy to make, the supplies were readily available and I know it is way over built but it gives me some piece of mind. Post some pics of your new stand once you get it started I would love to see it. What are you going to do?

 

[Rhodes19]

Rhodes _ Do you have any thought on my question/concern about the stand being 2 inches wider than the tank? My fear is that there will not be enough support if I only have the tank sitting on 1/2 of the frame all the way around!

Jeff

Jeff, if your tank is acrylic, it should be sitting on plywood that is on top of the top frame. If the tank is centered, I think you would be ok. You could add 2 more cross pieces (one on either side of center) going from the front frame to the back frame to add a little more support to the plywood and then use 3/4" plywood top. That might be over kill but thats what I would do. Maybe RocketEngineer or others with similar set ups can jump in an give a more definitive answer.

 

[Rhodes19]

nikesb,

Definitely re do it. Renting a miter saw or buying an inexpensive miter box will be well worth the investment.

 

[DolphinLVR]

Jeff, if your tank is acrylic, it should be sitting on plywood that is on top of the top frame. If the tank is centered, I think you would be ok. You could add 2 more cross pieces (one on either side of center) going from the front frame to the back frame to add a little more support to the plywood and then use 3/4" plywood top. That might be over kill but thats what I would do. Maybe RocketEngineer or others with similar set ups can jump in an give a more definitive answer.

I will have 3/4 Ply ontop, I just wanted to make sure I was OK (being paranoid) before securing it in place

 

[Rhodophyta]

nikesb,

Definitely re do it. Renting a miter saw or buying an inexpensive miter box will be well worth the investment.

I've seen cleaner cuts made with a chain saw. Dittos! Redo them. If you have a circular saw, get a Speed Square and read how to use the square to make nearly perfect cross cuts.

A manual miter box is not so good at cutting two-by stock. It usually is not tall enough to get a good start at the thicker boards. Generally you have to start at an angle from one slot and aim toward the other if you are cutting lumber thicker than the inexpensive miter box is designed for. Not the best way to go if you are out of practice sawing boards.

http://homerenovations.about.com/od/toolsbuildingmaterials/a/artmiterbox.htm

 

[Rhodes19]

I've seen cleaner cuts made with a chain saw. Dittos! Redo them. If you have a circular saw, get a Speed Square and read how to use the square to make nearly perfect cross cuts.

A manual miter box is not so good at cutting two-by stock. It usually is not tall enough to get a good start at the thicker boards. Generally you have to start at an angle from one slot and aim toward the other if you are cutting lumber thicker than the inexpensive miter box is designed for. Not the best way to go if you are out of practice sawing boards.

http://homerenovations.about.com/od/toolsbuildingmaterials/a/artmiterbox.htm

LMAO!!! "cleaner cuts made with a chain saw". Back when I was a teen, my boss took me to a construction site where they were building new condos and that is exactly how they cut the 2xs, studs and all!! They stacked them about 15 tall and about 6 deep, snapped a chalk line and kinda came close to cutting on the line. :hammer:

Good call on the miter box. I was actually thinking for the unit I have. The saw attaches to 4 vertical rods that are about 6" tall so you can cut tall pieces of lumber. I use it mostly for trim/molding work. It allows you to cut straight down without deviation and you can cut angles on it as well. It is NOT a miter box. Sorry, my bad. I picked it up at Lowes.

 

[nikesb]

I redid them after renting out a miter saw. muchhh better. i'm about skin soon and was wondering how people were making square holes in the middle of the plywood. I'm not much of a wood guy haha

 

[Rhodophyta]

I redid them after renting out a miter saw. muchhh better. i'm about skin soon and was wondering how people were making square holes in the middle of the plywood. I'm not much of a wood guy haha

One way is blind cutting with a circular saw. That is not such a good idea for you to try. Too much chance of getting your fingers in the wrong place, or having the saw dance on its blade.

What I would suggest is mark the hole you will cut. Drill a hole somewhere inside the marks. Now take a sabre saw and set it on the plywood, being sure none of your saw horses are under the markings on the plywood panel. Start up the saw and cut from the hole toward the marks, curving so that when you reach the mark, you are going to be turning toward it. When you reach the end of a mark, back up a couple inches and then curve toward the next right angle mark. When you reach the end of that mark, repeat, but this time only go a half foot or so down the next side.

Now move the one sawhorse over so it supports the plywood outer frame plus the piece you have been cutting free. Once you've reached the end of the third mark, stop, move the other sawhorse so it supports the frame plus the piece you are removing. Now you can finish the fourth cut, and any uncut section on the first mark.

If you are comfortable with the sabre saw, you can go back to those chunks left in the corners and cut them out from the opposite sides. Or you can use a hand saw if you would rather move on to another tool for a while.

 

[snaza]

Hi,

Great thread. My stand will be 60x32x36. tanks will be 60x32x22 - 170G

what size red parts would i need? 2x6 be ok? do i need a centre brace or will the 4 legs be fine?

Aaron

 

[Rhodes19]

Hi,

Great thread. My stand will be 60x32x36. tanks will be 60x32x22 - 170G

what size red parts would i need? 2x6 be ok? do i need a centre brace or will the 4 legs be fine?

Aaron

Aaron,

Go with 2x8 for your top frame. You won't need a center brace for this one. 2x8s can span up to 72" without a center leg. HTH

 

[NaClH2Opgh]

Aaron,

Go with 2x8 for your top frame. You won't need a center brace for this one. 2x8s can span up to 72" without a center leg. HTH

I'm building a stand for a 220 (72"X24"X30") do you think I could use 2X8 for the top frame and not have a center brace since it's only 40 more gallons of water. I wasn't sure the load a 2X8 could handle with a 6' span.

 

[strout]

I was wondering the same thing NaCIH20pgh, thanks for asking. The tank I want is 72x30x24

 

[teacherthomas]

Glue. I was told by a carpenter not to use wood glue.
"You most likely now this, but do not use carpenters glue (white or yellow) for this stand.

Carpenters glue dries brittle and can crack and become loose from jars or vibrations. Also it will not deal with water very well even after it is fully dry.

Use Polyurethane or some such adhesive. Water has no effect on them and as an adhesive they have some flexibility"

Agree or disagree? what do you use?

 

[Rhodophyta]

Glue. I was told by a carpenter not to use wood glue.
"You most likely now this, but do not use carpenters glue (white or yellow) for this stand.

Carpenters glue dries brittle and can crack and become loose from jars or vibrations. Also it will not deal with water very well even after it is fully dry.

Use Polyurethane or some such adhesive. Water has no effect on them and as an adhesive they have some flexibility"

Agree or disagree? what do you use?

If you apply the glue on a dirty surface with gaps and don't clamp properly, either with clamps or by drawing in tightly with screws, then your old carpenter has a point. The liquid nails type of adhesive will fill some gaps, but it's not strong in that application and the seams can pull apart at the glue joint rather than failing at some other point in the wood.

The critical issue, I think, is the prep and the execution of the gluing process. If you do either glue right, they will be dependable. I will use the PL4000 types most often because I can apply it with a caulking gun. So I disagree with the reasoning, but find the tubes slightly more convenient to use.