DIY Stands Template and Calculator

here is a stand that i built for my lfs for trade. i used 3/4" oak ply and 3/4" oak stock. it was made for a peninsula 75 gal. it actually is a lot easier to build that you would expect. i do not have any pics of the actual process (as i always forgot to grab my camera), but i would be more than glad to help if anyone needs somme advice on it.

the stand no doors

IMG_2663.jpg


the end that points out

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the canopy

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fun little detail

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inside of the stand, i has dirty fingers

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Hi guys,

First have to say there are some really nice looking stands in this thread, but I’m getting ready to start the stand for my 450, 96Lx36Wx30H, and wanted to run my design by everyone; the plan is to use 2x6 for red and yellow upper rails and purple uprights. 2x4 for the green, orange and blue (not the upper blue though). I’m only planning to use a 2x6 purple center support and have the skin, ¾” oak or maple, provide some extra support; so will I have a room full of water or a hopefully good looking reef :)
 
Great thread,
One question, everyone has stated what a solid stand they build, but mine doesn't seem so sturdy. Is it normal for it to be able to wiggle side to side without a tank on it?

Thanks,
Dave
 
I guess I should have stated the stand is made with 2 X 4, and is 35" high and will hold a 120 gallon tank (hopefully).
Thanks,
Dave
 
Thanks for the response Kim, do I need to skin the entire stand or can I just do the front and half the side (top)
Thanks,
Dave
 
If you skin the front and have of the side it will eliminate most of the wiggle so you will not have any problems with it.

Kim
 
I guess I should have stated the stand is made with 2 X 4, and is 35" high and will hold a 120 gallon tank (hopefully).
Thanks,
Dave

Is your top frame 2x4 as well? You might be safer with a 2x6 top frame. The op recommends 2x4 top frame for up to 90 g and 2x6 for 125-150 g with a 72" span. Just my my $0.02
 
Yes the top is 2 x 4, I figured most stands are over built and its only 4 feet long. The stand doesn't sway left to right but front to back, I'm thinking because it's on carpet and in the basement so the floor might not be level? I have place the tank on it tonight and it still wiggles, will it stablize when filled with water?
 
The question I have about this design has to do with skinning or adding center supports. Maybe I missed it, but doing either one of these, and especially the center supports will keep the top rail from deflecting or deflecting nearly as much. Is anyone taking this into account? Maybe it has been addressed and I missed it. I have been thinking about this because I'm getting ready to rebuild a Oceanic stand for a 156 that is in pretty sad shape. I'll create a new thread for that however.
 
The idea behind this design is that you don't have to do the center supports so you can access the sump much easier. The skin is not needed to support the weight of the tank, just to keep the stand from wracking.

So if you want center supports, the long rails do not need to be as large as the design shows.

kim
 
Is your top frame 2x4 as well? You might be safer with a 2x6 top frame. The op recommends 2x4 top frame for up to 90 g and 2x6 for 125-150 g with a 72" span. Just my my $0.02

I've built stands with 2 by 4 top rails for a six foot span and even with my weight (275) in the center of one rail, could not get enough deflection to read it with a laser level. I don't see any reason for a 2 by 6, whatever an OP is, it does not know its stuff in this case. But I would always double the rail any size stand with a 1/2" plywood piece inbetween them so that I can counter the twists in two boards and not have to worry about future warping or sagging. Two by pine is not furniture stuff. It's rough carpentry framing stock. Use the techniques that match the material and then cover it with a shell.

danontank.jpg
 
I've built stands with 2 by 4 top rails for a six foot span and even with my weight (275) in the center of one rail, could not get enough deflection to read it with a laser level. I don't see any reason for a 2 by 6, whatever an OP is, it does not know its stuff in this case. But I would always double the rail any size stand with a 1/2" plywood piece inbetween them so that I can counter the twists in two boards and not have to worry about future warping or sagging. Two by pine is not furniture stuff. It's rough carpentry framing stock. Use the techniques that match the material and then cover it with a shell.

danontank.jpg

Ummm OP is original post or poster and in this case I believe he is an engineer, so I'll gladly take his opinion over your sitting on a 2x4 experiment.
 
The idea behind this design is that you don't have to do the center supports so you can access the sump much easier. The skin is not needed to support the weight of the tank, just to keep the stand from wracking.

So if you want center supports, the long rails do not need to be as large as the design shows.

kim

I get the idea behind the design, however several people have gone with supports, either for the doors or to use smaller lumber, most have skinned their stands and while that isn't it's purpose it will keep the long rail from deflecting as much and possibly any at all.
 
Ummm OP is original post or poster and in this case I believe he is an engineer, so I'll gladly take his opinion over your sitting on a 2x4 experiment.

Thanks for your explanation of what OP means. That means you are half right, which will get you a diploma from public school. That stand is no experiment. That particular one in the photo has been holding 250 gallons of water for five years and still looks like a new stand. You can take anyone's opinion you want, but it is proper design, not opinon, that holds water.
 
Thanks for your explanation of what OP means. That means you are half right, which will get you a diploma from public school. That stand is no experiment. That particular one in the photo has been holding 250 gallons of water for five years and still looks like a new stand. You can take anyone's opinion you want, but it is proper design, not opinon, that holds water.

I don't usually get involved in flame wars, but with your ignorant comment about public schools I can't resist. :furious:

Last time I checked Cornell, Umich, UVA and UNC were all outstanding public institutions. Furthermore, a friend of mine (who happens to be a structural engineer with undergrad and Masters degrees from Cornell) put his stamp of approval on the OP's design. I'd say the Ivy league still holds water.

...and now back to our regular scheduled program.
 
I need some help can anyone draw me up and design for a 95 gallon surfline aquarium I have a few ideas but am just not sure what would be the most structurley sound. The tanks dementions are 48" long 19" deep.

Thanks,
Scott
 
I don't usually get involved in flame wars, but with your ignorant comment about public schools I can't resist. :furious:

Last time I checked Cornell, Umich, UVA and UNC were all outstanding public institutions. Furthermore, a friend of mine (who happens to be a structural engineer with undergrad and Masters degrees from Cornell) put his stamp of approval on the OP's design. I'd say the Ivy league still holds water.

...and now back to our regular scheduled program.

Well you certainly do your best to start flames with little provocation. I'm sorry you are touchy about internet abbreviations. I just meant to be light about them, maybe a little perspective. And certainly that is a list of fine institutions, none of which are public high schools, and none participated in the downsizing of the grading system that happened in public high schools making the passing mark for a high school course now lower than it once was. I greatly exaggerated that reduction to award you a passing grade. My apologies.
 
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