DIY "Stream" Style Pump
- Thread starter thunt
- Start date
miatawnt2b
New member
OK, I have a question about startup of these pumps. I think the idea of leaving the sleve tube cut an inch or so is a good idea to allow the magnet impellor to unseat from the pump if it's starts the wrong direction. Is this how most people are solving this problem, or is there another solution?
Second, I am thinking about pumps that don't start unless you shave the prop down. In looking at various powerhead impellors, I noticed that the impellor can rotate about 1/4 turn independantly of the magnet. What exactly does this do? My thought is that it allows the magnet to come up to speed and 'wack' the impellor, aiding in startup. This DIY, as I can tell, so far does not have this feature. If we could incorporate that style design, I'd bet we could start turning bigger props.
Thoughts?
-J
Second, I am thinking about pumps that don't start unless you shave the prop down. In looking at various powerhead impellors, I noticed that the impellor can rotate about 1/4 turn independantly of the magnet. What exactly does this do? My thought is that it allows the magnet to come up to speed and 'wack' the impellor, aiding in startup. This DIY, as I can tell, so far does not have this feature. If we could incorporate that style design, I'd bet we could start turning bigger props.
Thoughts?
-J
Just my $.02....
miatawnt2b- I think you're probably right about the 1/4 spin. I think it's also for longevity. A Maxijet on a wavemaker starts and stops dozens of times a day. Also notice the impeller blades is made from a rubbery plastic to soften startup even more.
I trim my props down to 1 1/2" and these just fit in the gaurds. Unless you make a gaurd out of acrylic like kimjessen's you can't use a bigger prop like you want to try.
IMO 1 1/2" prop is as big as a MJ 1200 can handle and self start.
miatawnt2b- I think you're probably right about the 1/4 spin. I think it's also for longevity. A Maxijet on a wavemaker starts and stops dozens of times a day. Also notice the impeller blades is made from a rubbery plastic to soften startup even more.
I trim my props down to 1 1/2" and these just fit in the gaurds. Unless you make a gaurd out of acrylic like kimjessen's you can't use a bigger prop like you want to try.
IMO 1 1/2" prop is as big as a MJ 1200 can handle and self start.
I thought I would post my latest problems.
I ended up having to take apart the modifications and hook mine up as a regular maxijet pump.
It all started when I was fiddling with it and when trying to take off the pvc pipe I broke one of the two little clips (on the maxi-jet pump) that holds on the pipe. Even with this broken I hooked it back up and let it run. Unfortunatly it only ran for a couple more days when it just quit all togeather.
I played with it trying to get the propellar to spin but it just wont. It seems to just go back and forth and no matter what I tried it didn't change anything. So in the end I took it apart and hooked up the regular powerhead attachments. So it is a regular maxi-jet now and seems to run just fine.
When I get time I will take another look and see whats wrong.
I ended up having to take apart the modifications and hook mine up as a regular maxijet pump.
It all started when I was fiddling with it and when trying to take off the pvc pipe I broke one of the two little clips (on the maxi-jet pump) that holds on the pipe. Even with this broken I hooked it back up and let it run. Unfortunatly it only ran for a couple more days when it just quit all togeather.
I played with it trying to get the propellar to spin but it just wont. It seems to just go back and forth and no matter what I tried it didn't change anything. So in the end I took it apart and hooked up the regular powerhead attachments. So it is a regular maxi-jet now and seems to run just fine.
When I get time I will take another look and see whats wrong.
Kevin- if you want to fix that pump, you could use a two part epoxy(the kind in a double syringe) and a piece of an old credit card. put a dab of epoxy on the outside of the tab and housing then squish the piece of credit card into it as a brace. It won't be pretty but it should be funtional.
I think you'll like those teflon washers. They made a big difference right away on mine. I sent some out to niko5 too.
You guys let me know how they work.
If anyone else is having the wear or starting problems PM me if you can't find teflon washers locally and I'll send you some.
Patrick
I think you'll like those teflon washers. They made a big difference right away on mine. I sent some out to niko5 too.
You guys let me know how they work.
If anyone else is having the wear or starting problems PM me if you can't find teflon washers locally and I'll send you some.
Patrick
Ill try the creditcard idea to see if I can fix it.
As far as it switching back and forth. It was really weird. I think it was switching back and forth but it was almost like it had no power. Normally when it switches back and forth it has enough force to thrust the whole impellar out of the hold. But when I was trying to use it the last time it was switching back and forth but not with enough power to produce flow in any direction. I tried blowing air into it and it didn't make a difference.
Like I said I haven't had a chance yet to look at it again. When I get a chance Ill see if I can figure out what is wrong.
I think most of my problems stemmed from me breaking off that clip. Otherwise it worked great.
As far as it switching back and forth. It was really weird. I think it was switching back and forth but it was almost like it had no power. Normally when it switches back and forth it has enough force to thrust the whole impellar out of the hold. But when I was trying to use it the last time it was switching back and forth but not with enough power to produce flow in any direction. I tried blowing air into it and it didn't make a difference.
Like I said I haven't had a chance yet to look at it again. When I get a chance Ill see if I can figure out what is wrong.
I think most of my problems stemmed from me breaking off that clip. Otherwise it worked great.
Mike O'Brien
New member
here's a few shots of mine, and how it's mounted. It has a prop from a hydor rotating wavemaker.
Mike O'Brien
New member
Came out of a hydor rotator. I'm glad I have one more that doesn't work anymore, so I can make another one. Thats the prop that makes the hydor rotate.
Mike O'Brien
New member
Comparison shot from a normal powerhead.
Mike O'Brien
New member
lavith
New member
Re: Low Flow Help
Re: Low Flow Help
WOW that's neat. Could you let us know where you get all the parts?
Re: Low Flow Help
PHreef said:Hi everyone, great thread!! Awesome DIY project!! Thanks for sharing all the research and developement.
Very nice mount niko5. I'll make one as soon as i straighten this pump out.
My question for those who have done this mod:
If i put my hand in front of the pump(while running in the right direction) about a foot away, I can barely feel it.
I think either the prop is too close to the pump, or the prop is too small. The prop packaging said 1 1/4 but it's actually 1 3/16, leaving alot of room between the blades and the tube.
Please take a look at these pics from my gallery.
Any advice is appreciated. Again, hats off to all!!!
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/60551P1170013A.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/60551P1170014A.jpg
WOW that's neat. Could you let us know where you get all the parts?
lavith- I cut and pasted this info from one of my earlier posts.
>Anyway... the 3/32 316 S.S. shaft Small Parts part # zrxx-015-36.
Dumas prop manufacturer # 3003, Tower Hobbies special stock # LXE472
(I've used several different Dumas props by pressing them on the shaft sleeve)<
Thats smallparts.com for the shaft material. And towerhobbies.com for the prop.
Other materials:
*I now only use 1 1/2" gray sch 80 pvc pipe for the gaurd, cut to 3 1/8" long then slotted for intake.(local hardware store)
*3/16" gray pvc sheet for the end cap, then milled with 3 way shaft support( usplastics.com)
*3/16" rigid airline tubing for shaft sleeve.
*1/4" diameter teflon washer, reduces friction for easy starting(local hardware store)
I've made my mods in my machine shop, but if you read thru this thread carefully you will find all the info needed to make this mod work using hand tools.
Good luck, it's a fun project! If you don't have any luck with it, PM me about making up a kit for you.
-Patrick
>Anyway... the 3/32 316 S.S. shaft Small Parts part # zrxx-015-36.
Dumas prop manufacturer # 3003, Tower Hobbies special stock # LXE472
(I've used several different Dumas props by pressing them on the shaft sleeve)<
Thats smallparts.com for the shaft material. And towerhobbies.com for the prop.
Other materials:
*I now only use 1 1/2" gray sch 80 pvc pipe for the gaurd, cut to 3 1/8" long then slotted for intake.(local hardware store)
*3/16" gray pvc sheet for the end cap, then milled with 3 way shaft support( usplastics.com)
*3/16" rigid airline tubing for shaft sleeve.
*1/4" diameter teflon washer, reduces friction for easy starting(local hardware store)
I've made my mods in my machine shop, but if you read thru this thread carefully you will find all the info needed to make this mod work using hand tools.
Good luck, it's a fun project! If you don't have any luck with it, PM me about making up a kit for you.
-Patrick
Cheap Skate
New member
I have been reading this thread and something (actually 2 things) keep nagging at me.
Firstly why do the converted pumps sometimes run backwards, I do understand AC theory and see the possibility of it happening but they never run backwards when unaltered. Think about your standard powerhead, the water goes in the big hole in the middle and comes out the slightly small hole that is on the periphery of the vortex chamber, this outlet hole is generally a quite tight tangent so.....If they naturally ran backwards they wouldn't do much pumping would they???? IMHO they would be more likely to suck if running backwards - but not very efficienctly. Also - given the design of just about all the powerheads I can think of you cannot see the impellor anyway, so they gotta run forwards ALL the time.
Secondly, it would be much easier to make a propellor pump if the front bearings were behind the impellor/propellor, there is only one make of pump I know of where the front bearing is at the front of the motor housing and the impellor is naturally open faced, they also have a brake system at the back of the magnet that works centrifugally. Unfortunately (and this is incestuous) they are made by Tunze
Oh well back to the drawing board.
Firstly why do the converted pumps sometimes run backwards, I do understand AC theory and see the possibility of it happening but they never run backwards when unaltered. Think about your standard powerhead, the water goes in the big hole in the middle and comes out the slightly small hole that is on the periphery of the vortex chamber, this outlet hole is generally a quite tight tangent so.....If they naturally ran backwards they wouldn't do much pumping would they???? IMHO they would be more likely to suck if running backwards - but not very efficienctly. Also - given the design of just about all the powerheads I can think of you cannot see the impellor anyway, so they gotta run forwards ALL the time.
Secondly, it would be much easier to make a propellor pump if the front bearings were behind the impellor/propellor, there is only one make of pump I know of where the front bearing is at the front of the motor housing and the impellor is naturally open faced, they also have a brake system at the back of the magnet that works centrifugally. Unfortunately (and this is incestuous) they are made by Tunze
Oh well back to the drawing board.
Mike O'Brien
New member
All ac powered powerheads can turn both ways, it doesn't effect the direction the water flows.
