DIY "Stream" Style Pump
- Thread starter thunt
- Start date
Pleae help to identify my problem with this mod (i worked off of the other thread (bulldzr):
I have the ss glued into the rubber stopper then the mag housing then the impellor glued onto the larger tubing then the prop glued into the smaller tubing which is glued into the opposite end of the larger tubing (originally i glued the prop onto the ss, but then i took it apart and unglued it so now it is not glued...but maybe sticky) then the ss is inserted into the red cap (not glued) which is pushed through some acrylic. the two ends of the acryilic are superglued to the pvc. My intake holes are similar to wayne's (bulldzr) design. my prop is spinning but the output is nothing like the movie or what other people have been claiming to get. I put this on a 400 and on a 600, same results on each. Where am i going wrong? could it be that the ss is spinning with the prop because it's sticking? was i not supposed to glue the ss to the rubber stopper inside the mj?
Thanks in advance
I have the ss glued into the rubber stopper then the mag housing then the impellor glued onto the larger tubing then the prop glued into the smaller tubing which is glued into the opposite end of the larger tubing (originally i glued the prop onto the ss, but then i took it apart and unglued it so now it is not glued...but maybe sticky) then the ss is inserted into the red cap (not glued) which is pushed through some acrylic. the two ends of the acryilic are superglued to the pvc. My intake holes are similar to wayne's (bulldzr) design. my prop is spinning but the output is nothing like the movie or what other people have been claiming to get. I put this on a 400 and on a 600, same results on each. Where am i going wrong? could it be that the ss is spinning with the prop because it's sticking? was i not supposed to glue the ss to the rubber stopper inside the mj?
Thanks in advance
Thought I would share my latest updates to my mod. I was one of the ones that reported that my maxijet stopped working well but still worked fine if I hooked it back up as I origionally had it. Turns out that my propeller/acrylic tube piece that connected to the maxi-jet magnetic cylinder was slipping and thus not producing the desired flow. So it was not the maxi-jet that was failing, it was my modifications that was failing.
So here are my 3 main modifications.
1. BullDZR idea of using the pvc knockout (test) cap was a wonderful idea. The 1 1/2" pipe is close to the right size to connect to the maxi-jet but still allows for slippage and vibration. I just took the pvc knockout cap and put it inside of some 1 1/2" pvc and used acrylic glue to glue it in place. WORKS LIKE A CHARM. The fit on the maxi-jet is VERY tight. Tight enough that I doubt you would even have to use the maxi-jets clip things to hold the pipe on the maxi-jet motor.
2. My second problem with my last mod was with the end piece of the 1 1/2" guard that holds the titanium shaft in place. I originally used a pvc cap for this and tried cutting a hole in the center of the cap to hold the shaft. This didn't work out so well for me because it was hard to get to and wasn't very centered. So this time I tried to make something that looked similar to what bassman57 posted above. I had no way to make one of those and so I improvised. I ended up taking a 1/4" acylic sheet and a 1 1/2" hole saw and using a drill press I was able to cut out an acrylic disc that fit almost perfectly in the 1 1/2" pipe. Another bonus is that with the hole saw it has a drill bit in the center so I have a perfectly centered hole in the disc. After I had the disc I then basically cut/grinded/dirlled it until it looked like bassman57's picutre above except without the outer ring. (Note: as I was cutting/grinding/drilling I planned to have pieces of the disc touch the outer pipe thus you must not do any cutting grinding or drilling in these areas. For example with bassman57's picture above, the outer ring would represent the pipe and the center region represents the disc. You dont want to alter the disc where it meets the pipe.) This front guard/disc fit perfectly in the 1 1/2" pipe and all I had to do now is put it in the end of the pipe and use acrylic glue to set it in place.
3. This my final part of my new mod. My last problem I had with my mod was with attaching my propeller on the acrylic tube to the the magnetic maxijet cylinder without making it perminant and also not allowing it to slip. What I found out was when you heat up the acrylic tube it stretches quite easily. So I put both the acrylic tube (with propeller) and the magnetic cylinder on the titanium shaft, then (while on the titanium rod) I rotated the end of the acrylic tube over a candle for a few seconds and then pushed the magnetic cylinder and the acrylic tube togeather. What this does is it heats up the acrylic tube so it is flexible and then when you push them togeather it forces the acrylic tube over the end of the magnetic cylinder. Then to tighten the hold of the acrylic tube I then rotated it over the candle again which caused the tube to shrink tightly over the magnetic cylinder after which I dipped it in water to cool it quickly. If you remember the magnetic cylindar has a plastic notch which is used to attach the normal maxijet propellar to the cylindar. This notch now acts as a catch and the tube(with propellar) is now connected to the cylinder and it doesn't slip. The reason you must do all of this step using the center titanium rod so that the connection is straight so that it will spin well.
Sorry I don't have pictures. If you need some I would be more than willing to get some, or if you need clarification let me know.
So here are my 3 main modifications.
1. BullDZR idea of using the pvc knockout (test) cap was a wonderful idea. The 1 1/2" pipe is close to the right size to connect to the maxi-jet but still allows for slippage and vibration. I just took the pvc knockout cap and put it inside of some 1 1/2" pvc and used acrylic glue to glue it in place. WORKS LIKE A CHARM. The fit on the maxi-jet is VERY tight. Tight enough that I doubt you would even have to use the maxi-jets clip things to hold the pipe on the maxi-jet motor.
2. My second problem with my last mod was with the end piece of the 1 1/2" guard that holds the titanium shaft in place. I originally used a pvc cap for this and tried cutting a hole in the center of the cap to hold the shaft. This didn't work out so well for me because it was hard to get to and wasn't very centered. So this time I tried to make something that looked similar to what bassman57 posted above. I had no way to make one of those and so I improvised. I ended up taking a 1/4" acylic sheet and a 1 1/2" hole saw and using a drill press I was able to cut out an acrylic disc that fit almost perfectly in the 1 1/2" pipe. Another bonus is that with the hole saw it has a drill bit in the center so I have a perfectly centered hole in the disc. After I had the disc I then basically cut/grinded/dirlled it until it looked like bassman57's picutre above except without the outer ring. (Note: as I was cutting/grinding/drilling I planned to have pieces of the disc touch the outer pipe thus you must not do any cutting grinding or drilling in these areas. For example with bassman57's picture above, the outer ring would represent the pipe and the center region represents the disc. You dont want to alter the disc where it meets the pipe.) This front guard/disc fit perfectly in the 1 1/2" pipe and all I had to do now is put it in the end of the pipe and use acrylic glue to set it in place.
3. This my final part of my new mod. My last problem I had with my mod was with attaching my propeller on the acrylic tube to the the magnetic maxijet cylinder without making it perminant and also not allowing it to slip. What I found out was when you heat up the acrylic tube it stretches quite easily. So I put both the acrylic tube (with propeller) and the magnetic cylinder on the titanium shaft, then (while on the titanium rod) I rotated the end of the acrylic tube over a candle for a few seconds and then pushed the magnetic cylinder and the acrylic tube togeather. What this does is it heats up the acrylic tube so it is flexible and then when you push them togeather it forces the acrylic tube over the end of the magnetic cylinder. Then to tighten the hold of the acrylic tube I then rotated it over the candle again which caused the tube to shrink tightly over the magnetic cylinder after which I dipped it in water to cool it quickly. If you remember the magnetic cylindar has a plastic notch which is used to attach the normal maxijet propellar to the cylindar. This notch now acts as a catch and the tube(with propellar) is now connected to the cylinder and it doesn't slip. The reason you must do all of this step using the center titanium rod so that the connection is straight so that it will spin well.
Sorry I don't have pictures. If you need some I would be more than willing to get some, or if you need clarification let me know.
One last note. I was just looking at BullDZR's thread and noticed that his magnetic cylinder looks different than mine. Mine has a plastic tube comming out of the end of it that is the same size as the acrylic tube we have been using. This is where the origional maxi-jet propeller connected. BullDZR's maxi-jet cylinder does not look like this. So if you don't have the correct type of cylinder then part #3 wont work for you.
I don't know why there is a difference between them. I bought my Maxi-Jet 1200 around 6-8 months ago.
I don't know why there is a difference between them. I bought my Maxi-Jet 1200 around 6-8 months ago.
killercoral
New member
There is a difference in the age of the Maxijets that you have. I have both types and I believe that the older ones you cannot push the tube over the impellar.
fishesRdelicious
New member
steel will rust it has to be stainless. check your local welder, there are stainless steel welding rods you can get for cheap.
aka_BigRed
New member
The stuff I got was Tig rod. It doesn't have the flux coating on it. It's just a metal rod. Make sure you get 316 stainless steel. They should know exactly what you are talking about.
The local welding place just gave it to me. He said it wasn't worth his time to ring it up when they usually sell it by the # and in large qtys like 50-100lbs. He said he bends/mangles more rods each day than he gave me. He was super nice.
The local welding place just gave it to me. He said it wasn't worth his time to ring it up when they usually sell it by the # and in large qtys like 50-100lbs. He said he bends/mangles more rods each day than he gave me. He was super nice.
Jamesurq
New member
smariner said:
I'm with you Chad... PM me if you have them.
Someone needs to put a kit and instructions together and start raking it in. As long as the combined output and price of the unit is comperable to the seios, it's GOT to be a winner. I know for myself I can't justify putting a Rio pump in my tank for ANY price...
Maxi's - i've used for years and haven't had ANY problems. Hell even the one that I have permanently IN my kalk mixing tub still starts up every time!
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/131411.asp
I bet a prop like this would make that thing even better.
Even this would be awesome.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15250&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Turbobearcat/subprops003.jpg
Submarine on the right said has the the last prop installed on it, not mine, but on a website i visit.
I bet a prop like this would make that thing even better.
Even this would be awesome.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15250&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Turbobearcat/subprops003.jpg
Submarine on the right said has the the last prop installed on it, not mine, but on a website i visit.
