DIY Sulfur Denitrator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
customcolor
New member
thanks for the answer tmz
Ok, it's the identical design, using an MJ1200 for recirc, but fed with 1/2" flex - drip rate has been steady. Only issue is that I have to stop the recirc to de-gas.
Inside is pretty much the same, used a 3" plastic insert shower drain with the outside lip filed flat. Used foam from an acrylic algae scraper (just under 1/2" in thickness) on top of that.
Currently loaded with the midwest media, unrinsed as directed.
Let me know if you want any other shots.
Tank is currently reading about 30ppm, reactor is reading around 50-60ppm.
Inside is pretty much the same, used a 3" plastic insert shower drain with the outside lip filed flat. Used foam from an acrylic algae scraper (just under 1/2" in thickness) on top of that.
Currently loaded with the midwest media, unrinsed as directed.
Let me know if you want any other shots.
Tank is currently reading about 30ppm, reactor is reading around 50-60ppm.
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply Tom.
I referred to the problems posted by some, but not all, of the user's of the LSM media. you may find some of them in the original start of this thread, before the split. There are other threads on sulpher denitrators, of a different design, posting some similar results with the LSM, as I have mentioned.
The LSM media will work just fine in the reactor. however the post's on the Midwest media, appeared to have better results in the initial stages, & presented no problems with channeling or restrictions, due to media fines.
It's all good, whichever media you may use, as long as you can achieve the end results of low No3, with little to no problem's.
I must admit that I was eventually swayed to the Midwest media, when I noticed several of the commercial unit$ using it.
Yes it was a bit more $$, but I am satisfied with the results, & it is re usable.
It's not the first thing I've paid more $$ for in this expensive hobby:lol:
But it is one of the one's, that worked well.
Good reefing to you, & may your fish & corals smile
at you when you look in.Steve
:smokin:
Thanks Steve,I did read the whole thread pre split too and most of the links. It's excellent.
I did start it up 3 days ago with the LSM(3litres). I have a 575 g system. . I also used a few inches of Sea Chem matrix media( the stone) that had been in my sump for several months. I'll post results in a few days.
Preliminarily, after one day,I noted some nitrate production (purple
) and ph at 7.3 (tank has 0 nitrite and ph of 8.3);next day nitrite bright red greater than 1; today pink less than one.Not testing nitrate yet since the nitrite will likely skew a nitrate test. I am dripping at about 1.5- 2 drops per second.I know it's not the 1 drop per sec recommended but I'm using double the sulfur.
I have it cycling so that the input water is from the system and the effluent drains into a buckett( part of mydaily 15 water change) . After it cycles I just have to move the output line to the sump which I can do without shutting it down.
My only concern right now is that the basement is about 68 degrees and I'm sure the water in the reactor is cool, even though it's getting 80 degree system water, given the slow flow and may slow the bacteria. I could put it in the sump to help keep it warm but would have to move several things around.
I did start it up 3 days ago with the LSM(3litres). I have a 575 g system. . I also used a few inches of Sea Chem matrix media( the stone) that had been in my sump for several months. I'll post results in a few days.
Preliminarily, after one day,I noted some nitrate production (purple
) and ph at 7.3 (tank has 0 nitrite and ph of 8.3);next day nitrite bright red greater than 1; today pink less than one.Not testing nitrate yet since the nitrite will likely skew a nitrate test. I am dripping at about 1.5- 2 drops per second.I know it's not the 1 drop per sec recommended but I'm using double the sulfur.
I have it cycling so that the input water is from the system and the effluent drains into a buckett( part of mydaily 15 water change) . After it cycles I just have to move the output line to the sump which I can do without shutting it down.
My only concern right now is that the basement is about 68 degrees and I'm sure the water in the reactor is cool, even though it's getting 80 degree system water, given the slow flow and may slow the bacteria. I could put it in the sump to help keep it warm but would have to move several things around.
The hardest part is to leave it alone & let the culture build.
I let the effluent drip into a 5 gal., while running the reactor on the system's water. I just overfilled the sump with fresh SW, & kept an eye on it. once the reactor tested O ~No3, I placed the return from it in the sump.
slowly over 1~2 week's I increased the dps, after each test reading of O.
Eventually, you come to the sweet spot.
Although O ~ No3 is the intended goal, some of my corals actually enjoy a little, so <3ppm ( Salifert ) works for me.
I do enjoy the low maintenance the reactor requires, along with the simplicity of it. I use separate media chambers now, & replacing the aragonite next time, should go smoothly.
Good Luck with your's, you will enjoy it.
Steve
:smokin:
I let the effluent drip into a 5 gal., while running the reactor on the system's water. I just overfilled the sump with fresh SW, & kept an eye on it. once the reactor tested O ~No3, I placed the return from it in the sump.
slowly over 1~2 week's I increased the dps, after each test reading of O.
Eventually, you come to the sweet spot.
Although O ~ No3 is the intended goal, some of my corals actually enjoy a little, so <3ppm ( Salifert ) works for me.
I do enjoy the low maintenance the reactor requires, along with the simplicity of it. I use separate media chambers now, & replacing the aragonite next time, should go smoothly.
Good Luck with your's, you will enjoy it.
Steve
:smokin:
customcolor
New member
does any one have befor and after pics of some corals after doing this?
That would be interesting but might not reveal much.I suspect some corals might not like a nitrate reduction (xenia, anthelia,perhaps some leathers, for example) to near zero.So why do it at all?
While it's pretty clear that nitrate on the reef is very low,near 0. . It's also clear that corals need some nitrogen as well as some phosphate. However, excess nitrate can fuel nusiance algae along with phosphate. It can also overfeed zooxanthelae which can cause a coral to turn brown. It is also thought that excessive zooxanthelae associated with excess nitrate may out compete the coral itself for available carbon needed for growth and possibly harm it in other ways once this process is out of balance. . .
Personally, I'm not shooting for 0 nitrate more in the 10ppm range or less. My sps seem to like nitrogen at reasonable levels. So I don't want to go to zero only to have to dose it back.
Zeovit systems which tout many testimonials of enhanced color rely on a 0 PO4 and NO3 strategy but then you have to supplement sources of nitrogen and phosphorous and other elements. . I suppose giving you some control over the process, except that the manufacturers don't say what's in the stuff.
Since the only other by product of a sulfur denitrator is a relatively small amount of sulfate and since sea water has lots of it already(at 2700ppm it makes up 3.7% of the weight of seawater), the impact of any small additon from a dentirator is very likely not to be of any significance.
So you can use a device like the denitrator as a tool singly or along with other methods to help you manage nitrate to your desired level.
Once this control is in place along with good means for phosphate export and oter filtration stratefies, feeding your tank properly even with a high bioload while maintaining acceptably low nutrients becomes more possible, in my opinion.
OCEAN SIZE
BACK REEFIN'
Well articulated Tom.
Sorry Ive been following this for a long time and have a billion things on my mind... but this denitrator is in lieu or in addition to:
* carbon dosing (VSV)
* RDSB
* GFO / phosban
* chaeto fuge
?
Sorry Ive been following this for a long time and have a billion things on my mind... but this denitrator is in lieu or in addition to:
* carbon dosing (VSV)
* RDSB
* GFO / phosban
* chaeto fuge
?
For me its an addition to:
RDSB 30 gal
Chaetomorpha refugiia 50 gal
GFO
I suppose it could be used with carbon dosing as well.
The denitrator wont do anything for phosphate.
I dont dose vodka sugar or vinegar . I did several years ago but stopped because of 2 concerns:
When the bacteria grow are they beneficial,benign,pathenogenic or all three?
Will the extra carbon dosed be removed or will it actually build up causing harm?
RDSB 30 gal
Chaetomorpha refugiia 50 gal
GFO
I suppose it could be used with carbon dosing as well.
The denitrator wont do anything for phosphate.
I dont dose vodka sugar or vinegar . I did several years ago but stopped because of 2 concerns:
When the bacteria grow are they beneficial,benign,pathenogenic or all three?
Will the extra carbon dosed be removed or will it actually build up causing harm?
Today will be the two week mark, and I'm still seeing higher NO3 in the effluent. I think I saw a slight decrease from the day before, but it could be my eyes playing tricks on me.
I'm considering rebuilding the reactor, using 4" PVC. I suppose its possible that the 3" PVC and amount of media (Premium Aquatics 'small' bag) I have in there is slowing down the flow. The media came to about 4" below the top return in the recirc. I can't see, obviously, but it sounds like water is moving. I was worried about having a reactor that size sitting the sump, but with no leaks in the first one I'm feeling more confident about building one that is completely external.
Any thoughts before I plunk down another $30 in PVC parts?
saltydog64
New member
Tom..................
Great start and no ??? it's cycling. I too share or did share your concern about temps, as my whole setup is my "fish room" the finished basement..................but this time of year it's only 62 to 65 in it ( saves on cooling $$$$), what you could do is cover or surround your SR in that "silvery duct pipe" insolution..let's see if I can upload a pic....
This was way back when I first started, used the tape to secure the whole deal.....but it kept SR temp = to tank temp....actually it was somewhat warmer in there, propably due to the heat input from the mj running...I to used LSM and @ one point added a bacteria booster...NBC # 9 this was suggested by "our leader" dj........:rollface: :rollface:
As an update I'm no longer running the SR as I have some time ago reached 0.00 ppm Nitrate and now SR is on stand by, you never no when it will be needed. I recently DIY a refugium and running it on a reverse light cycle with cheato in there and seems it is doing the job....that's a another subject, sorry....but none the less you will get it, just go slow
Dick
)
melev
Well-known member
At last, all the information you need is on one page of <i>Reefkeeping Magazine</i>:
DJfrankie's Sulfur Reactor
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2009-01/diy/index.php
DJfrankie's Sulfur Reactor
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2009-01/diy/index.php
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