DIY Sulfur Denitrator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
saltydog64
New member
Dave....
Actually maybe the heavy feeding is just what will solve your concern as large inputs should or could be the source your looking for....so what I would is not decrease the FR but instead maintain your last cc/min or even slightly increase it...BUT what ever you make sure you CAREFULLY smell for H2S in some collected eff. water and do this @ least once a day (I checked mine and all is OK, I forced mine to produce H2S once and man you can't miss the smell....nasty:sad1::sad1:real nasty
Is it not a great problem to have.....to low a Nitrate....never thought I'd say that and I bet you..... a whole bunch out there would like to have this "problem".
good luck with this ...
Dick
I have been feeding quite heavily all this time, so adding even more food doesn't fit in my current budget or GFO stocks
I also think a little nitrate, 5-10 PPM is a good thing to have and I am currently now less than that. With the flow rate being 111cc/minute, I don't think it will be but a few days before tank nitrate is zero, then the reactor will be out of a food source. Once that happens, it will produce hydrogen sulfide, if I interpret what I have read correctly?
So, my goal for this reactor all along was to first, reduce nitrates to acceptable level, and second, to then tune it in to my bioload/feeding regimen and keep it running as a check/balance for nitrate control. So, what would it hurt if I start dialing it back now so I can keep nitrates in the 5-10 range?
I really don't want the instability of reducing to zero, then removing the reactor for a period of time, increasing nitrates, then resuming the long process of getting it running again.
Thanks for any thoughts
I also think a little nitrate, 5-10 PPM is a good thing to have and I am currently now less than that. With the flow rate being 111cc/minute, I don't think it will be but a few days before tank nitrate is zero, then the reactor will be out of a food source. Once that happens, it will produce hydrogen sulfide, if I interpret what I have read correctly?So, my goal for this reactor all along was to first, reduce nitrates to acceptable level, and second, to then tune it in to my bioload/feeding regimen and keep it running as a check/balance for nitrate control. So, what would it hurt if I start dialing it back now so I can keep nitrates in the 5-10 range?
I really don't want the instability of reducing to zero, then removing the reactor for a period of time, increasing nitrates, then resuming the long process of getting it running again.
Thanks for any thoughts
saltydog64
New member
I have been feeding quite heavily all this time, so adding even more food doesn't fit in my current budget or GFO stocks
So, my goal for this reactor all along was to first, reduce nitrates to acceptable level, and second, to then tune it in to my bioload/feeding regimen and keep it running as a check/balance for nitrate control. So, what would it hurt if I start dialing it back now so I can keep nitrates in the 5-10 range?
I really don't want the instability of reducing to zero, then removing the reactor for a period of time, increasing nitrates, then resuming the long process of getting it running again.
Thanks for any thoughts
Dave...........I wasn't suggesting to increase your bioload.....only that the current one "might" maintain what you what.
At your current FR it would take approx 9 days to turn over....lets say your 375 G tank....I just don't think a slower FR is our answer.......BUT there is a sure fire way to find out....DO IT !!!! however as we both know H2S is a real possiblity so be sure to check for it once/day @ the eff....
I 100% agree ........I don't think ZERO NO3 is needed in MOST tanks and actually some of it will act a food source, for example for Mushrooms....my really took off to the point of a pest with increasing NO3, no other changes, but with NO3 near 0.00ppm they have receded.....just a thought !
Anyhow IMO I think trying to control NO3 output of a SR with reducing FR isnot going to work for the long, but like I said try it and please post results as we all can learn from each other...but most importantly you have reached your initial goal.....NO3 reduction excellant...
Dick
Belgian Anthias
New member
Low nitrate and sulfite
Low nitrate and sulfite
When NO3 drops below 0,5 mg/l most test kits will give a 0 reading. In a normal stocked aquarium there will always be formed NO3. The de-nitrification bacteria will feed on the sulfer, that is why it is a sulfer-de-nitrator. Sulfite will only be formed when the enfluent becomes to low nomally due to a cloged reactor and dead bacteria. I use a fluidizised-bed sulferreactor and I had no problems so far and I don't expect any.
I already asked the question if someone can explain why people think that sulfite will be formed when nitrate drops to near zero. I never had that experiance and can not find an explenation for this.
If the enfluent water is oxygenated before it is directed to the aquarium ( mine is ozonated) as it should be to drive out the gasses and stabilize the PH, I can not see a problem even when there is a bit of sulfite formed. When I smell it, it is driven out of the water. I have all the time to correct it without any danger for the live-stock.
( Dutch) De Mille
Low nitrate and sulfite
When NO3 drops below 0,5 mg/l most test kits will give a 0 reading. In a normal stocked aquarium there will always be formed NO3. The de-nitrification bacteria will feed on the sulfer, that is why it is a sulfer-de-nitrator. Sulfite will only be formed when the enfluent becomes to low nomally due to a cloged reactor and dead bacteria. I use a fluidizised-bed sulferreactor and I had no problems so far and I don't expect any.
I already asked the question if someone can explain why people think that sulfite will be formed when nitrate drops to near zero. I never had that experiance and can not find an explenation for this.
If the enfluent water is oxygenated before it is directed to the aquarium ( mine is ozonated) as it should be to drive out the gasses and stabilize the PH, I can not see a problem even when there is a bit of sulfite formed. When I smell it, it is driven out of the water. I have all the time to correct it without any danger for the live-stock.
( Dutch) De Mille
erics3000
Active member
I have been reading this thread on and off for over a year now. My mindset was something along the lines the way Nanook is thinking. I have slacked last year on my tank. I am at the point now I would even give it shoot to bring them down and take it off line and see if my regular maintenance will keep nitrates below 10 with my bio load. I would still prefer dialing it back but not sure about the long term results.
I do have a question. The sulfur smell do you guys just smell it from the reactor fluent or can you smell it in your display? I have all my equipment, fuge and sump in my garage so if its the efluent I could care less. The only thing my display is by my return for my ac and I don't want to take the chance of my son breathing anything in
I do have a question. The sulfur smell do you guys just smell it from the reactor fluent or can you smell it in your display? I have all my equipment, fuge and sump in my garage so if its the efluent I could care less. The only thing my display is by my return for my ac and I don't want to take the chance of my son breathing anything in
How many fish/inches can I have with a denitrator?
How many fish/inches can I have with a denitrator?
My denitrator has been up and running for well over a year now (for those following this thread for a long while, you might remember my "big brown" unit).
All is fine. I occassionally have to change out my input hose due to algae clogging (as it loops right under my lighting).
My question is...... as my nitrates remain at virtually zero, how many fish/inches can my 65 gal tolerate as long as I keep running the denitrator? All my little fish have now gotten to be bigger fish? For a tank without supplementation, the rule was 1"/8 gal. My tiny damsels/clownfish are now 2-3" in size (4 total), my engineer goby went from 3" to 18" (which is amazing considering I never see him eat more than a few morsals), my hippo tang went from 1 1/2" to 4-5", and my flame angel was 2-3" and has remained about the same, and my 6-line wrasse has remained about 1 1/2-2". Theoretically, I am WAY above my tank's limit but all seems to holding up OK. While I do not plan to put in any more fish, I might put in a few more corrals.
What's the consensus? Thanks for the input.
How many fish/inches can I have with a denitrator?
My denitrator has been up and running for well over a year now (for those following this thread for a long while, you might remember my "big brown" unit).
All is fine. I occassionally have to change out my input hose due to algae clogging (as it loops right under my lighting).
My question is...... as my nitrates remain at virtually zero, how many fish/inches can my 65 gal tolerate as long as I keep running the denitrator? All my little fish have now gotten to be bigger fish? For a tank without supplementation, the rule was 1"/8 gal. My tiny damsels/clownfish are now 2-3" in size (4 total), my engineer goby went from 3" to 18" (which is amazing considering I never see him eat more than a few morsals), my hippo tang went from 1 1/2" to 4-5", and my flame angel was 2-3" and has remained about the same, and my 6-line wrasse has remained about 1 1/2-2". Theoretically, I am WAY above my tank's limit but all seems to holding up OK. While I do not plan to put in any more fish, I might put in a few more corrals.
What's the consensus? Thanks for the input.
mxzmadness
New member
hi everyone. well i have been reading up on this denitrator and i have built 1. i have 1 question. what would be the best filter media to use above the sulphur, ceramic ring's, aragonite, crushed coral?i am just waiting on my maxijet 900 to get in that i ordered. and what other media to use then it's done and running
thank's pat
thank's pat
r-balljunkie
Registered Reefer
you want to use the same media thats for calcium reactors, to buffer the solution out a bit.
tech problem with my unit
tech problem with my unit
Oh, where is DJFrankie when you need him?
My unit has been up and running for a long while now (see page 17 of this thread).
Once per year when the flow gets R E A L L Y slow, I break it down and give the media a rinse in tank water to get rid of all the built up sediment and it works perfectly again. So far when it has been put back together, it has worked fine. Not this time. With the recirculator pump off, the unit appears to be running fine. However, when I turn the recirc pump on, the effluent stops. Shut the pump off, it works. Put it back on, it stops. Whats up??? The design of the unit seems simple enough so I am unable to figure out what is going on. Just to let you know, I did test the recirc pump before I closed the top up and hooked it back to my tank -- the recirc suction appears to be working OK.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If I run the unit without the recir pump, and just the small pump feeding in the water from my tank, how much less efficient will it be?
I await your magical answers............... marc
p.s.: I am always amazed at the time, patience, and finances you guy(/girls) have, not to mention a sympathetic spouse (significant other), to keep a tank with hundreds of gallons up and running with everything apparently alive and healthy. Cudos to you,all. Mine is only 65 gal and takes up a lot of my spare time --but isn't it all worth every minute of it!?! (You bet it is!)
tech problem with my unit
Oh, where is DJFrankie when you need him?
My unit has been up and running for a long while now (see page 17 of this thread).
Once per year when the flow gets R E A L L Y slow, I break it down and give the media a rinse in tank water to get rid of all the built up sediment and it works perfectly again. So far when it has been put back together, it has worked fine. Not this time. With the recirculator pump off, the unit appears to be running fine. However, when I turn the recirc pump on, the effluent stops. Shut the pump off, it works. Put it back on, it stops. Whats up??? The design of the unit seems simple enough so I am unable to figure out what is going on. Just to let you know, I did test the recirc pump before I closed the top up and hooked it back to my tank -- the recirc suction appears to be working OK.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If I run the unit without the recir pump, and just the small pump feeding in the water from my tank, how much less efficient will it be?
I await your magical answers............... marc
p.s.: I am always amazed at the time, patience, and finances you guy(/girls) have, not to mention a sympathetic spouse (significant other), to keep a tank with hundreds of gallons up and running with everything apparently alive and healthy. Cudos to you,all. Mine is only 65 gal and takes up a lot of my spare time --but isn't it all worth every minute of it!?! (You bet it is!)
Last edited:
Similar threads
