dosing vinigar with bio pellets?

It takes some time for nitrates to fall with organic carbon dosing;sometimes months.

I think it's possible the facultative heterotrophic bacteria fueled by organic carbon dosing take their nitrogen from ammonium preferentially; thus reducing nitrate production from the ammonia oxidizing bacteria normally associated with the nitrogen cycle . In other words nitrogen inputs from food are being used before nitrate is formed. However, it may take more time for the anaerobic nitrate reduction or other means of consumption to occur for nitrate already in the system.

This is a post of mine from another thread which may be of interest:

I would stay the course and go slowly even though you may have room to go up some. FWIW, I'm settled in at 40vodka equivalents for 650 gallons.

Many don't see nitrate reduction for many months.
I think it took Melev a noted reefer here on RC in the past over 8 mos for nitrates to drop even though PO4 in his tanks dropped soon after dosing started.
In my case ,I used a diy sulfur dentrator to take down the nitrates from the 50 to 80 ppm range in a 650 gallon system in matter of several weeks to near zero. That was over 5 years ago. Since then even with heavy feeding they have remained very low. They hovered around 5ppm for several months though and then just dropped to undetectable.

One study I read notes heterotrophic bacteria (like those encouraged by carbon dosing) take N from ammonia directly to microbial mass. This would cut down on the production of nitrate through the usual chemoautotrophic bacterial route via ammonia oxidation but wouldn't do very much to remove nitrate that's there already .A different pathway via the removal oxygen from nitrate,ie, the usual aerobic activity would .
So, it seems high nitrate might take a long time via the normal anaerobic process to deplete and carbon dosing likely won't make it faster in a direct way if the heterotrophs take N form ammonia directly ; the extra heterotrophic bacterial activity would just cut down the new nitrate supply.
This scenario may explain why folks who start carbon dosing with relatively low nitrate levels ( say less than 5ppm ) can keep them there and after a period of time see them fall further. While , those who use soluble organics to drop existing high nitrate levels often find it takes an inordinately long period of time .
Unfortunately , some push it and wind up with the nasty consequences of overdosing which in some case are quite significant including fish and other animal killing oxygen depletion from blooms, stingy messes throughout the aquarium and a buildup of unused total organic carbon.

Here is the study fyi:

http://ag.arizona.edu/azaqua/ista/IS...%20Ebeling.pdf


This is from it:

The three nitrogen conversion pathways traditionally used for the removal of ammonia-nitrogen in
marine shrimp aquaculture systems are throug
h the conversion of
ammonia-nitrogen via
photoautotrophic algae directly to algal biomass, autotrophic bacterial to nitrate nitrogen, and
heterotrophic bacterial directly to microbial biomass.
 
I have noticed that ive been deadlocked at 12 for No3 and .13-.04 Po4. nitrates dont rise much but also doesnt fall either. there has got to be something keeping my No3 up.

Sure Food. You are just balancing the inputs with the outputs. :)

Thanks Randy... if I lower the food input for a while this should lower things? and then I can go back to my current feeding regiment. what would be a safe amount to lower? I currently feed 8 ml of food should I cut that in half to 4?

I tested my ro/di yesterday and nitrates tested 0.00 on red sea test kit so I'm not putting anything in that way. Since you already told me that No3 cant be leached out of my rock and I've been cleaning and siphoning for months now, must be the food. I honestly didn't think it was much for the corals but what the heck do I know, i'm still learning.
 
It takes some time for nitrates to fall with organic carbon dosing;sometimes months.

I think it's possible the facultative heterotrophic bacteria fueled by organic carbon dosing take their nitrogen from ammonium preferentially; thus reducing nitrate production from the ammonia oxidizing bacteria normally associated with the nitrogen cycle . In other words nitrogen inputs from food are being used before nitrate is formed. However, it may take more time for the anaerobic nitrate reduction or other means of consumption to occur for nitrate already in the system.

This is a post of mine from another thread which may be of interest:

I would stay the course and go slowly even though you may have room to go up some. FWIW, I'm settled in at 40vodka equivalents for 650 gallons.

Many don't see nitrate reduction for many months.
I think it took Melev a noted reefer here on RC in the past over 8 mos for nitrates to drop even though PO4 in his tanks dropped soon after dosing started.
In my case ,I used a diy sulfur dentrator to take down the nitrates from the 50 to 80 ppm range in a 650 gallon system in matter of several weeks to near zero. That was over 5 years ago. Since then even with heavy feeding they have remained very low. They hovered around 5ppm for several months though and then just dropped to undetectable.

One study I read notes heterotrophic bacteria (like those encouraged by carbon dosing) take N from ammonia directly to microbial mass. This would cut down on the production of nitrate through the usual chemoautotrophic bacterial route via ammonia oxidation but wouldn't do very much to remove nitrate that's there already .A different pathway via the removal oxygen from nitrate,ie, the usual aerobic activity would .
So, it seems high nitrate might take a long time via the normal anaerobic process to deplete and carbon dosing likely won't make it faster in a direct way if the heterotrophs take N form ammonia directly ; the extra heterotrophic bacterial activity would just cut down the new nitrate supply.
This scenario may explain why folks who start carbon dosing with relatively low nitrate levels ( say less than 5ppm ) can keep them there and after a period of time see them fall further. While , those who use soluble organics to drop existing high nitrate levels often find it takes an inordinately long period of time .
Unfortunately , some push it and wind up with the nasty consequences of overdosing which in some case are quite significant including fish and other animal killing oxygen depletion from blooms, stingy messes throughout the aquarium and a buildup of unused total organic carbon.

Here is the study fyi:

http://ag.arizona.edu/azaqua/ista/IS...%20Ebeling.pdf


This is from it:

The three nitrogen conversion pathways traditionally used for the removal of ammonia-nitrogen in
marine shrimp aquaculture systems are throug
h the conversion of
ammonia-nitrogen via
photoautotrophic algae directly to algal biomass, autotrophic bacterial to nitrate nitrogen, and
heterotrophic bacterial directly to microbial biomass.

wow thanks for that... so can you also chime in on the last question I asked randy? I would prefer to go slow and just like you mention its taken me 6 months to get to where I am and still not at 0... so hovering at 6-8 now actually would you recommend lowering the food input. if so how? how much? also I do have chaeto and growing like wildfire. should I continue this while using bio-pellets. Thanks
 
Lowering the feeding should reduce the nitrate level, at least over time, but it likely will rise back up if you increase the level again. That's why water changes seldom help much with nitrate problems. To keep the feeding level the same, increasing the export capacity should help.
 
I agree. :)

But, exactly how much and how fast a nutrient will fall with less feeding is not especially clear, because many of the export methods (like macroalgae growth, GFO binding phosphate, etc) work better as the nutrient levels rise and work more poorly as they drop, so there is negative feedback on the export process, reducing the swing as you change levels.
 
Thanks to everyone's continued suggestions. I went down to 4ml feeding from 8ml and will monitor if fish and corals are getting enough. If not ill increase accordingly. I do have chato and grasilatia growing pertty well in my sump. But true has slowed as nitrates and phos have reduced. Aside from doig more frequent water changes and siphoning sand and cleaning the sump. I'm not sure what other way I could export? I'm also using a pretty powerful skimmer for my tank 24/7 cup fills every 3days and is cleaned. I also run the skimmer wet when I remember. I really hate commercially available chemicals you buy at the lfs but I'm all for trying new ways to improve the balance of the system.
 
Randy, bertoni, TMZ, reefer54 what do you guys think of this stuff? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/marinepure-ceramic-biomedia-plate.html

only reason I'm considering it is that I have limited space left in my sump and I know I need to increase my live rock as over the years I have sold some off here and there to make room for coral growth and probably down to 60 lbs. in a 105 gal DT. If you guys think its a bad idea than as an alternative I can just pick up some live rock rubble as it will fit better than larger pieces. I will certainly be able to get more rock into the sump if they are smaller pieces. I may build a frag system in the future which will help increase rock and water volume.
 
Thanks to everyone's continued suggestions. I went down to 4ml feeding from 8ml and will monitor if fish and corals are getting enough. If not ill increase accordingly. I do have chaeto and grasilaria growing pertty well in my sump. But true has slowed as nitrates and phos have reduced. Aside from doing more frequent water changes and siphoning sand and cleaning the sump. I'm not sure what other way I could export? I'm also using a pretty powerful skimmer for my tank 24/7 cup fills every 3days and is cleaned. I also run the skimmer wet when I remember. I really hate commercially available chemicals you buy at the lfs but I'm all for trying new but natural ways to improve the balance of the system..
 

what do you guys think of this stuff? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/marine...dia-plate.html


Looks like an effort to provide neater way than sand or live rock to add surface area for ammonia oxidation/nitification with some potential for hypoxic areas in the pores to support anaerobic denitrification. I have no experience with that particular product.

I use something similar in my seahorse fry tanks where live rock and some of the critters it brings in like hydroids are deadly to the fry and sand gets too dirty with the heavy feeding required . The product I use is Seachem Matrix; not the carbon;it's porous pebbles that actually float until they soak a little when dry. I put them in moderate to low flow areas. If I put them in a high flow areas ,like a canister filter or high flow sump they actually increase the nitrates. Too much oxygen flowing for hypoxic areas to form, I guess. Handles the ammonia and nitrite well enough though.
 
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what do you guys think of this stuff? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/marine...dia-plate.html


Looks like an effort to provide neater way than sand or live rock to add surface area for ammonia oxidation/nitification with some potential for hypoxic areas in the pores to support anaerobic denitrification. I have no experience with that particular product.

I use something similar in my seahorse fry tanks where live rock and some of the critters it brings in like hydroids are deadly to the fry and sand gets too dirty with the heavy feeding required . The product I use is Seachem Matrix; not the carbon;it's porous pebbles that actually float until they soak a little when dry. I put them in moderate to low flow areas. If I put them in a high flow areas ,like a canister filter or high flow sump they actually increase the nitrates. Too much oxygen flowing for hypoxic areas to form, I guess. Handles the ammonia and nitrite well enough though.


great stuff... than would live rock rubble be better? or would that too cause hypoxic areas if used in a sump... Thinking of these http://www.saltwaterfish.com/Rubble-Live-Rock-12lbs--FREE-Shipping_p_3538.html
 
That seems pricy for live rock rubble, but it's probably okay in a very shallow layer. I would worry about organic debris buildup in deeper beds. That might be fine for the tank, but there's some risk there.
 
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