drummereef
Team RC
Got it, makes total sense. I didn't figure bubbles would be inclined to travel upstream as it were. I'll definitely modify the output so it's not submerged as well.
drummereef's 180g in-wall build
- Thread starter drummereef
- Start date
Got it, makes total sense. I didn't figure bubbles would be inclined to travel upstream as it were. I'll definitely modify the output so it's not submerged as well.
melev
Well-known member
So Pete, tell me: Do you have to close all five valves in the manifold first, then turn off the main pump? I get how air would rise from the lower section to the upper pipe, but if the valves were left open, I would expect all the plumbing to drain completely and into the sump, leaving a big air pocket. Does the water fill the bottom section first while air goes out the upper pipe to the tank, minimizing the air going into the reactors? Or would it be better to turn the pump back on, then open the valves again, so the only air that would move into the reactors would be what little bit is in the tubing beneath each valve?
psteeleb
Team RC
the thought process is not to have to deal with the valves for a pump off/on. You right, there will be drain down to the sump level but providing an air path of lesser resistance and upward or outward will minimize the amount of air pushed into the reactors on a pump startup. Thus minimizing reactor burp.
His design will push the majority of the air up through the returns. Slow flow on the header will alow a lot of air in the header and reactors to also escape up to the returns as the header refills with water. Then with an escape path on the end of the header run most of the remaining air will go out the recirc line. The only residual air that should get to the reactors (if flow is slow enough) should be limited to the half inch tubing that feeds the reactors.
drummereef
Team RC
He probably can't but I sure can.
Who's tank is this anyway... :lol: The front of the tank sits about 1/8" from the back side of the drywall on the viewing side of the tank. So in total about 5/8" from the viewing side, which is including the 1/2" drywall. If you look back on the first couple pages you'll see how the stand is framed under the front rim. There's a 2x6 directly under the front rim butted up to the back of the viewing side drywall. I haven't trimmed it out yet. I'm still plumbing and want to do some fresh water tests to see if it holds water first.
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jmadison
rebmeM deretsigeR
PPPPPPPPhhhhhhhhhhhhewwwwwwww
Just read this entire thread! Fantastic craftsmanship and thoughtfulness in this build.
I just got my AGA 180 today. Wouldve prefered the Oceanic with the corner overflows, but for the 60% off retail deal I got... well thats a lot of nice coral instead! Needless to say, I will be stealing many of your ideas for plumbing 
and probably will end up with a sump resembling that of yours!
+1 subscriber!!!
Oh btw, what are your plans for addressing the glass on the back(fishroom) side of the tank?
Just read this entire thread! Fantastic craftsmanship and thoughtfulness in this build.
I just got my AGA 180 today. Wouldve prefered the Oceanic with the corner overflows, but for the 60% off retail deal I got... well thats a lot of nice coral instead
! Needless to say, I will be stealing many of your ideas for plumbing and probably will end up with a sump resembling that of yours!+1 subscriber!!!
Oh btw, what are your plans for addressing the glass on the back(fishroom) side of the tank?
drummereef
Team RC
I should have some updated pics next week. I still need to pick up a hole saw for the 3 bulkheads in the sump. Once I get them drilled I'll finish the plumbing and post some pics.
drummereef
Team RC
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15096030#post15096030 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmadison
PPPPPPPPhhhhhhhhhhhhewwwwwwww
Just read this entire thread! Fantastic craftsmanship and thoughtfulness in this build.
I just got my AGA 180 today. Wouldve prefered the Oceanic with the corner overflows, but for the 60% off retail deal I got... well thats a lot of nice coral instead
+1 subscriber!!!
Oh btw, what are your plans for addressing the glass on the back(fishroom) side of the tank?
Sounds like a great deal to me.
I appreciate the kind words. I'm planning on using Coroplast plastic sheet on the back. That way I can remove it when I'm cleaning or need to see behind the aquascape. Should be updating soon so stick around.
drummereef
Team RC
Placed another order with Savco... A GF ball valve for the recirc line, some clear primer, and a can of clear flex pvc glue. Should be here Wednesday. Still need to pick up a couple hole saws for the sump too. Man I got a lot to do... Kind of frustrating I can't get clear primer locally, only the purple stuff. Don't the big box stores know us reefers need to get our plumbing done? :lol:
Kind of frustrating I can't get clear primer locally, only the purple stuff. Don't the big box stores know us reefers need to get our plumbing done? :lol:
drummereef
Team RC
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15116633#post15116633 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H.Veras
where are all the pictures man....... we need to see the progress....
In due time my friend.
Need to get the last pieces of the puzzle this week and this thing will see some water. :lol: I've been OCD'ing on the yard the last couple weeks. Nice to get out in the sun for a while.
I'll hopefully get some updates later this week.
drummereef
Team RC
Check out the MSX Skimmer thread. Hop and sjm817 are both veteran users and swear by them. They are the reason I bought mine. I guess I'm the sucker.... :lol: The pinwheel and volute are MS made and pull more air than the octopus counterpart from what I've seen. It's all about the pumps and how they are modded. Here's the end of that thread but I'd scroll back to the beginning as well.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15117069#post15117069
jmadison
rebmeM deretsigeR
Thank you kindly sir!<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15117740#post15117740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drummereef
Check out the MSX Skimmer thread. Hop and sjm817 are both veteran users and swear by them. They are the reason I bought mine. I guess I'm the sucker.... :lol: The pinwheel and volute are MS made and pull more air than the octopus counterpart from what I've seen. It's all about the pumps and how they are modded. Here's the end of that thread but I'd scroll back to the beginning as well.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15117069#post15117069
drummereef
Team RC
Glad to help.
Right now I have the stock Sicce pumps. I'll probably run the pinwheels too. Even the guys at MS told me the 250 runs great with the stock pinwheels.
drummereef
Team RC
From what it looks like they are only running one Askoll. If I'm not mistaken it alone pulls 80 SCFH where the Sicce's pull roughly 35 SCFH a piece. So you over double your air with one Askoll and use less watts to run it.
Check out the videos on MS's website. They do some air meter testing in them too. Pretty informative.
http://www.marinesolutionsinc.com/catalog/pages.php?CDpath=10
