drummereef's 180g in-wall build
- Thread starter drummereef
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TheFishTeen
New member
Ok so I'm not sure if you've already finalized a design for the annexed fuge, but heres an idea. If your willing to spend the extra money, get a glass tank with an overflow. It will be much easier to muffle the drains that way, because you can put in formal standpipes (Dursos, preferably with strainers) and have the overflow comb as protection from sucking macros into the drain. Your best bet would be two drains, so you have some redundancy backing you up.
If you use the trough, you'll have to come up with something creative in terms of muffling the drain.
If you use the trough, you'll have to come up with something creative in terms of muffling the drain.
Ambiturner006
New member
This is a great read. Very clean and well thought out work you do. Definitely an inspiration for a soon to be reef keeper like myself.
I have a random off the wall question for you. Did you ever work at a kinko's in Orlando, fl? I used to know a Brett who was a drummer and very detail oriented years ago.
I have a random off the wall question for you. Did you ever work at a kinko's in Orlando, fl? I used to know a Brett who was a drummer and very detail oriented years ago.
110galreef
New member
CINDER BLOCKS! LOL....yeah right......
You would definitly make a sweet wood stand coverev in white super duper stains and then cover the top with high tech Black polymer plastic of sorts!:bounce1:
Anyway. why the extra tank and work, and maitnenece and plumbing, and clutter? What exactly do you hope to accomplish with this or what issue are you trying to resolve?
drummereef
Team RC
There is a 2" difference between the first baffle (drain section) and the 3rd baffle, which is the tallest bubble trap baffle. Hopefully this is what you are asking... All the baffles are 9" but the middle baffle in the bubble trap sits 2" off the bottom of the sump making it 11" tall.
I did consider this but am leaning a little more utilitarian for this purpose. Also want a reservoir that is more of a 'top down' tank so the sides are shaded from ambient light. Also wanted it as durable as possible since I'd be putting quite a bit of live rock in there. I do agree, I'll have to come up with a creative way to plumb the drains. I'm leaning towards a Glass Holes style overflow but I need to finalize the details on that.
Thank you Ambiturner. No, unfortunately, I've never lived in Fl. There's been many a winter I've thought about packing it up and moving down there though.
If he was into reef tanks too, now that would be a little creepy. :lol: Haha, you know me... I'd definitely trick out my cinder blocks though. :lol: No specific issues to resolve with adding a new tank. It's more for bio diversity than anything. I still think my system overall lacks some of the necessary micro-fauna that other systems seem to thrive on, like sponges etc... I am still pleased with the Marco Rock as I've only had minor pest issues along the way. I'd just like to have a little headroom as far as nitrification is concerned considering the minimal amount of rock used to begin with, and be able to support some more diversity using "real" live rock. I'm leaning towards just adding rock to the tank, no macros, but not completely sure what direction I want to take there. The other reason for adding it is to have a small frag grow-out shelf. Might light it with a DIY LED pendant which could serve dual purpose if I end up keeping some macro in there.
drummereef
Team RC
drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
Moving forward on the fuge design... Let me know what you guys think.
Cleaned up the corner where the stock tank will sit.
And BAM!! I ended up going with a 70 gallon Rubbermaid Stock Tank. It fits the area really well, without being too big (the 100g was way too long), and should provide plenty of extra volume to house a lot of live rock. Pics don't give a lot of perspective, but this thing is large.
So I'm thinking I can use an overflow box, like a Glass Holes kit, for the drain and run it through the wall behind the stock tank. From there, I can run the pipe down the unfinished wall and tap back into the fish room where it will terminate back to the sump. I think this will be the cleanest look and also avoid me having to plumb around the existing plumbing and electrical inside the fish room.
Here's a pic of the wall behind the stock tank. I'll obviously need to harvest the cymbal stand farm at some point. :lol:
And where the drain will come back into the fish room and terminate at the sump.
Moving forward on the fuge design... Let me know what you guys think.
Cleaned up the corner where the stock tank will sit.
And BAM!! I ended up going with a 70 gallon Rubbermaid Stock Tank. It fits the area really well, without being too big (the 100g was way too long), and should provide plenty of extra volume to house a lot of live rock. Pics don't give a lot of perspective, but this thing is large.
So I'm thinking I can use an overflow box, like a Glass Holes kit, for the drain and run it through the wall behind the stock tank. From there, I can run the pipe down the unfinished wall and tap back into the fish room where it will terminate back to the sump. I think this will be the cleanest look and also avoid me having to plumb around the existing plumbing and electrical inside the fish room.
Here's a pic of the wall behind the stock tank. I'll obviously need to harvest the cymbal stand farm at some point. :lol:
And where the drain will come back into the fish room and terminate at the sump.
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psteeleb
Team RC
Any ideas on how to plumb the stock tank?
keep it simple and as straight forward as posible
make sure you can drain more then you could ever pump in
a glass holes type over flow would be fine but you could probably get by with just a upturned elbow or maybe two of them tee'ed together. I wouldn't even worry about a strainer.
Also consider keeping a 1/4" per foot slope on the drain line all the way to the sump. Maybe run 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" drain so you can use the drain fittings to help the internal flow and air seperation.
drummereef
Team RC
Thanks Brett.
I haven't thought much past just adding a lot of rock. :lol: I'm not completely sold on the idea of a bunch of macros for this fuge but haven't ruled it out, simply because I'm not sure there'd be a huge benefit and it would add more maintenance. I might fabricate a lid so it's somewhat cryptic but on the fence there too. Sponges and/or other filter feeders would be nice. I would like to get feedback on adding a DSB in there or not. I'm leaning "not" on that one just because of the potential long term implications, and not being able to easily clean the bottom of the tank. Thoughts?Great advice Pete.
Do you think an upturned elbow would gurgle really bad - like an un-tuned Durso? That was my first choice but didn't know if it would make a bunch of noise plumbing it that way. My original idea was to run 2x 1.5" drains, but have one as a backup - overflow drain. Basically a "glass-holes" type box with a Durso pointing down (primary drain), and an elbow pointing up as a backup drain. Kind of a modified Herbie overflow. Other question is... Do overflows require a significant amount of "drop" for them to operate correctly? For instance on a reef-ready tank, the water flows over the teeth and drops down through the drain pipe a couple feet before it enters the sump. Would it be acceptable to come straight out the back of the stock tank, turn the corner, and drop 1/4" per foot until it terminates at the sump? More of a gentle slope, not the traditional vertical drop you get from a display to the sump. Let me know if that makes sense or not... :hmm5:
110galreef
New member
as far as drain noise.....my frag tank only has a 3/4" drain. It is simply a hole in the overflow and it really makes very little noise. frag tank has about 150gph too. I really think the upturned elbow will sufice just fine especially with 2 1.25 or 1.5" drains. Unless your going to go with crazy flow. But you will probably only have like what 300-400gph flow thru it at most?
The noise and gurgling really comes into play when you have lots of flow thru a small pipe. My 150gph thru a 3/4" is pushing it, but 300-400gph thru 2 1.5" is nothing as there is way more area in those 1.5 than 3/4" I have.
The noise and gurgling really comes into play when you have lots of flow thru a small pipe. My 150gph thru a 3/4" is pushing it, but 300-400gph thru 2 1.5" is nothing as there is way more area in those 1.5 than 3/4" I have.
Taqpol
New member
I was trying to think of ways for you to route the overflow around all the power lines, but knowing that you have an empty wall on the back makes its so much easier. Basically, I think you're idea will work perfectly and beautifully.
Here is what I would do:
I would just have two 1.5" drains with upturned elbows for surface skimming. I wouldn't worry about gurgling, the gurgle will only happen when you approach the water limit for that size drain, but 2x 1.5" drains should be able to handle more water then you would ever throw at a 'fuge.
Second, I would have two bulkheads at the same height in the flat middle part of that sump directly against the wall. have 1.5" pipe run back through the wall and connect to a simple 90 degree angle piece. This 90 can be at such a level that you maintain your at least 1/4"/foot drop where you terminate in another 90 that puts the pipe back through the wall and dumps into your sump. Throw in some unions (probably on the part behind the stock tank but in the unfinished room) to help you remove the tank in the future and align your slight slope, secure the pipes to the studs, and you're good to go. Standpipes definitely do not need a vertical drop before crossing horizontal distance, the gradual slope will be plenty.
For this tank (without a lot of flow), I dont think I would bother with a herbie as two upturned elbows should handle it just fine as long as you use 1.5" pipe all the way.
Here is what I would do:
I would just have two 1.5" drains with upturned elbows for surface skimming. I wouldn't worry about gurgling, the gurgle will only happen when you approach the water limit for that size drain, but 2x 1.5" drains should be able to handle more water then you would ever throw at a 'fuge.
Second, I would have two bulkheads at the same height in the flat middle part of that sump directly against the wall. have 1.5" pipe run back through the wall and connect to a simple 90 degree angle piece. This 90 can be at such a level that you maintain your at least 1/4"/foot drop where you terminate in another 90 that puts the pipe back through the wall and dumps into your sump. Throw in some unions (probably on the part behind the stock tank but in the unfinished room) to help you remove the tank in the future and align your slight slope, secure the pipes to the studs, and you're good to go. Standpipes definitely do not need a vertical drop before crossing horizontal distance, the gradual slope will be plenty.
For this tank (without a lot of flow), I dont think I would bother with a herbie as two upturned elbows should handle it just fine as long as you use 1.5" pipe all the way.
Taqpol
New member
Also, with such a big opening, if you wanted to try a DSB why not build a container with handles the same size as the footprint and however deep you want. That way if you ever feel the need to remove the sand bed just take out the rocks, lift the entire sand bed out, and put the rocks back in?
drummereef
Team RC
Thanks for the info. Yes, the overall flow will be relatively low. I'm guessing in the 300-500 gph range max. With 2x 1.5" drains, I believe those can handle up to 1500 gph so I'd be way under with plenty of headroom. Does your frag tank have a built-in overflow? Or is it just a bulkhead in the back of the tank?
Thanks kahkah.
Thanks Alex.
I get your first point, but can you explain the "second" point a little further? I'm not understanding where the 3rd and 4th bulkheads you are recommending will be installed... and/or if your setup is similar post some pics as that might help too. Thanks!Ingenious Idea on the DSB btw. I'll look into it.
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drummereef
Team RC
My other thought is, how much protection from stray macro will upturned elbows provide versus a proper overflow box with teeth? If I end up keeping macros in there (not sure yet), I know some tend to float so I don't want them getting into the upturned elbows causing them to clog. Thoughts?
110galreef
New member
I have an overflow on my fragtank. Its a coast to coast style. I wanted to be sure fish, and crabs and what not don't go down the drains. The upturned elbows can easy be fitted with intake screens if you are concerned about stray macro's or if you ever add fish or crabs into it so they don't go down the drains.
Plus with 2 1.5" drains you will be fine!!
Plus with 2 1.5" drains you will be fine!!
drummereef
Team RC
Excellent, thanks. If I put intake screens on both drains do they necessarily need to be upturned then? Or could I just install bulkheads and screw in the screens. Wouldn't the water level be roughly halfway or less up the screen when water is flowing, and still provide surface skimming at the same time?
110galreef
New member
Yeah i don't see why either wouldn't work fine. plus if you go with bulkheads you can easily add the upturned elbows or remove them as well....You have plenty of options or ways to change as you see fit.
