drummereef's 180g in-wall build

[psteeleb]

Brett

you may already know this about the BJB connectors, but:

1) use solid copper wire (not stranded - unless tinned)
2) if you need to pull a wire back out, you need to remove the BJB and do so very carefully from the back side. You will need to pull back the small piece of copper that locks inside the BJB or it will get bent to a point where it is not reusable. The copper frame/spring lock is very thin and won't take near the abuse you can give a standard wall plug or light switch with the same type of wire lock mechanism.

 

[drummereef]

Brett

you may already know this about the BJB connectors, but:

1) use solid copper wire (not stranded - unless tinned)
2) if you need to pull a wire back out, you need to remove the BJB and do so very carefully from the back side. You will need to pull back the small piece of copper that locks inside the BJB or it will get bent to a point where it is not reusable. The copper frame/spring lock is very thin and won't take near the abuse you can give a standard wall plug or light switch with the same type of wire lock mechanism.

Excellent info. I had read the locking tabs are very finicky. Hopefully I'll just need to wire it once and leave them alone (fingers crossed).

I know you noted to only use stranded that has been tinned... I plan on using solid for the majority of the connections but am contemplating using stranded for the longer run back to the drivers - simply because it's more flexible and I don't have to worry about it kinking as much. I'd be able to use the umbilical that I had made for my metal halides to route the wiring. I'm assuming that would be OK? (see the pic below as it shows the halide umbilical)

 

[drummereef]

UPDATE:


I figured I'd take the time while I'm waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive to map out the LED driver panel. This should give me enough room for future expansion in case I go all LED at some point. For this phase I'll have 2 drivers, the VDM module, and a junction box to hide all the wire connections. I hope to achieve a clean look and have all the wires routed neatly to their respected devices when it's done.

 

[110galreef]

looks good. But if you go all LED you will probably not have enuf room. But I wouldn't worry about that!

 

[drummereef]

looks good. But if you go all LED you will probably not have enuf room. But I wouldn't worry about that!

Indeed, the more I look at it... But I should have enough room to at least add a couple more drivers if I were to add the High Noon LEDs and possibly a moonlight addition at some point. It wouldn't be for a loooong time before I went all LED anyway (if ever). The more threads I read, the more I'm seeing people having trouble running all LED over SPS predominant tanks for extended periods. It's for another discussion I suppose but the technology, and knowledge on how to implement the technology in our hobby, is going to have to make some headway before I'd feel comfortable enough make the plunge.


More parts coming today... I'll post pics later. :dance:

 

[psteeleb]

Excellent info. I had read the locking tabs are very finicky. Hopefully I'll just need to wire it once and leave them alone (fingers crossed).

I know you noted to only use stranded that has been tinned... I plan on using solid for the majority of the connections but am contemplating using stranded for the longer run back to the drivers - simply because it's more flexible and I don't have to worry about it kinking as much. I'd be able to use the umbilical that I had made for my metal halides to route the wiring. I'm assuming that would be OK? (see the pic below as it shows the halide umbilical)

I used stranded for the main run from the ballasts/project box/fuses with no issues. I used solid between all the BJB connections. I need to double check but I think I used solid from the first and last BJB out for about 1 foot to a set of those water resistant wire connectors that provide a break point for hood removal (or with solid on the LED side and stranded on the ballast side).

 

[drummereef]

I used stranded for the main run from the ballasts/project box/fuses with no issues. I used solid between all the BJB connections. I need to double check but I think I used solid from the first and last BJB out for about 1 foot to a set of those water resistant wire connectors that provide a break point for hood removal (or with solid on the LED side and stranded on the ballast side).

Excellent, that is pretty much exactly what I want to do. If you get a chance, post a pic of the water resistant wire connectors you mentioned. I'm going to put all the connections inside the junction box but wouldn't mind a little extra peace of mind.

 

[JMLewis]

I've been following this build for a long time now. Definately one of the best and cleanest builds I've seen.

I have a question though. Why did you run larger PVC to your returns etc. and then reduce them down just before the connections do you get more flow this way or what's the theory behind that?

 

[drummereef]

I've been following this build for a long time now. Definately one of the best and cleanest builds I've seen.

I have a question though. Why did you run larger PVC to your returns etc. and then reduce them down just before the connections do you get more flow this way or what's the theory behind that?

Thanks JM. The Reeflo Dart, my main system pump, has a 2" inlet and 1.5" outlet. I decided to keep all the plumbing the same size as the fittings on the pump for maximum flow - no restriction coming in/out of the pump. The small amount of reduction at the returns isn't enough to restrict the flow enough to matter. The pump, even with the external fuge running, can pump more than the drains will allow if I were to fully open the valves- so no shortage of flow.

 

[drummereef]

UPDATE:


Happy Thanksgiving!

I've been brainstorming layout and design... Let me know what you think.

The LED bars will be 67.5" long. There are two 3" solid black tank braces indicated by the blue tape left and right of center on the bar. The tape on the far right is excess length that will be cut off. LEDs are indicated by the small white squares.

Currently I have the LEDs spaced 4" apart, and about 1.75" from the ends and center braces. The Optics I will be using are 60 degrees - Carclo Ripple Wide. The bar will be mounted 8-9" from the water surface.

 

[coraltastic]

U suck! U want to come to my house and redo my hole system? I will pay u in skimmer waste. Hahhhhaaah!

 

[drummereef]

U suck! U want to come to my house and redo my hole system? I will pay u in skimmer waste. Hahhhhaaah!

:lol: That's quite a generous offer but I've already got plenty of fish doo doo. :rollface:

 

[drummereef]

I made a couple Sketchups to show the coverage pattern of the LED bars. I was getting concerned that I wouldn't have enough LEDs to really get full coverage with the 60 degree Optics (Carclo Ripple Wide) I ordered. And/or I should have ordered 80 degree optics but ReefLEDLights doesn't have an 80 degree optic that fits the BJB connectors I ordered. I'm not sure that it matters anyway considering it's only supplemental to my Halides but I don't want spotlights when they are on alone either.

The LED spacing of each grouping is 4". Between the two cross braces the spacing would be ~7.5" which seems like a lot but there's still a bit of light overlap. It looks like ~50% overlap with the LED bar hanging about 8-9" above the water surface. Let me know what you think...

 

[psteeleb]

Brett

I had the same concern but I like the end result that the lens give; great shimmer and coverage for early morning and late evening effect.

I think you will be more then pleased with the results

 

[drummereef]

Brett

I had the same concern but I like the end result that the lens give; great shimmer and coverage for early morning and late evening effect.

I think you will be more then pleased with the results

Couple questions for you Pete...

1. What's the spacing of your Royal Blues?
2. How high off the water are they mounted?
3. What degree optics are you using?

I'm probably over thinking it (as always) but just don't want to make a mistake, considering the modest investment in this project so far... If I space all the LEDs at 4" evenly, all the way across the bar, I end up with an LED right in the center of each cross-brace. That's why I have them spaced as show in the pics above.

 

[drummereef]

These two Sketchups should paint a better picture of what I'm thinking...


The First design shows the original staggered spacing - 3 groups of 5 LEDs spaced 4" apart with a break between the cross braces. Looks like I have better upper corner coverage but might get some shadowing under the cross braces.

The Second design is an even 4" spacing across the bar. Looks like better coverage under the cross braces but would sacrifice the upper corners of the tank a little. I suppose this wouldn't be an issue in the back since my tank has dual corner overflows. Don't know how it would effect the front though... With the amount of light overlap I might be able to space them 4.25" apart and get a little more light on each side.

 

[psteeleb]

Couple questions for you Pete...

1. What's the spacing of your Royal Blues?
2. How high off the water are they mounted?
3. What degree optics are you using?

I'm probably over thinking it (as always) but just don't want to make a mistake, considering the modest investment in this project so far... If I space all the LEDs at 4" evenly, all the way across the bar, I end up with an LED right in the center of each cross-brace. That's why I have them spaced as show in the pics above.

1. 4"
2. 3"
3. Carclo ripple wide - I think they are 60 deg

 

[drummereef]

1. 4"
2. 3"
3. Carclo ripple wide - I think they are 60 deg

That makes me feel better, like I'm at least on the right track. You don't get any spotlighting with 4" spacing at 3" off the water?

 

[psteeleb]

That makes me feel better, like I'm at least on the right track. You don't get any spotlighting with 4" spacing at 3" off the water?

Technically yes, but not noticeable unless your looking hard for it and only under certain conditions. I will get some in the top 2-3" of tank water but nothing below that. With clear water it's hardly noticeable, it's more of a slight shadow and only when the room is dark on both sides of the tank.

I've never had any other reef nuts point it out even when I replicate the conditions. I've gone as far as mentioning it but their response was that it was so slight they wouldn't have noticed otherwise. In a couple instances (durrieng a tank tour) where I was showing off the lighting modes a few people stated they were surprised I wasn't getting spot lights.

 

[drummereef]

Technically yes, but not noticeable unless your looking hard for it and only under certain conditions. I will get some in the top 2-3" of tank water but nothing below that. With clear water it's hardly noticeable, it's more of a slight shadow and only when the room is dark on both sides of the tank.

I've never had any other reef nuts point it out even when I replicate the conditions. I've gone as far as mentioning it but their response was that it was so slight they wouldn't have noticed otherwise. In a couple instances (durrieng a tank tour) where I was showing off the lighting modes a few people stated they were surprised I wasn't getting spot lights.

OK, that's awesome. That makes me lean towards spacing them 4.25" evenly across the bar. That way I can get a little more coverage on the sides but still have significant overlap of each LED. Mine will be hung 8-9" above the water so fingers crossed the end result will be as solid as yours turned out.