drummereef's 180g in-wall build
- Thread starter drummereef
- Start date
drummereef
Team RC
What program are you using to create the 3D sketches?
I'm sure you've answered this before so sorry for the repeat question. If this thread was 3 or 10 or even 20 pages, I would look back but 170! That would take some time!
I use the free version of Google Sketchup for all my drawings.
drummereef
Team RC
All LED talk aside, here's a couple pics of my center island. Getting some decent growth lately so it's starting too fill out a bit more.
And further back.
And further back.
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summitwynds
Member
Wow! Looking great!
drummereef
Team RC
Thanks summitwynds.
Thanks B1N4RY. My diamond goby does a great job cleaning the sand bed. Now if I could get rid of the recent bubble algae attack I'd be happy. :headwally:
cromedogg33
Member
Brett,
Your sand looks a bit too clean?
Wish I could get mine to stay that clean
Your sand looks a bit too clean?
Wish I could get mine to stay that clean
woodnaquanut
Active member
Beautiful build. :inlove:
I know you haven't done the front side finish work, so I'd like to comment on your plans mentioned a page back.
If you want the tank to look like it's part of the house, match the trim to other house trim as best you can. Use the same paint/stain color too.
Never make the frame fancier than the picture! A simple frame adds to the look of the tank.
Now reef geeks won't notice the frame. Heck, reef geeks will probably only spend a few seconds on the front side! They will be interested in the incredibly done back side, aka 'the clean room'. The trim is only for non-reef non-geeks.
Whatever you do I'm sure it will be fantastic just like the rest of your work on this. Looking forward to seeing the LED build!
I know you haven't done the front side finish work, so I'd like to comment on your plans mentioned a page back.
If you want the tank to look like it's part of the house, match the trim to other house trim as best you can. Use the same paint/stain color too.
Never make the frame fancier than the picture! A simple frame adds to the look of the tank.
Now reef geeks won't notice the frame. Heck, reef geeks will probably only spend a few seconds on the front side! They will be interested in the incredibly done back side, aka 'the clean room'. The trim is only for non-reef non-geeks.
Whatever you do I'm sure it will be fantastic just like the rest of your work on this. Looking forward to seeing the LED build!
110galreef
New member
Brett,
Layout either way looks good. With the ripple wide and 8-9" off water you should be fine. Also my understanding is that the way the ripple wide lens difuses will help "minimize" the spot light. Plus you will be high enuf to not probably have any issues.
Based on my setup I was looking at about 3.75" spacing and about 10" from water. But my tanks isn't as wide as yours thus I can get them a little closer together.
Layout either way looks good. With the ripple wide and 8-9" off water you should be fine. Also my understanding is that the way the ripple wide lens difuses will help "minimize" the spot light. Plus you will be high enuf to not probably have any issues.
Based on my setup I was looking at about 3.75" spacing and about 10" from water. But my tanks isn't as wide as yours thus I can get them a little closer together.
drummereef
Team RC
Brett,
Your sand looks a bit too clean?
Wish I could get mine to stay that clean
Wish I had some "BubbleAlgaeBeGone". That would make my day. :lol:
Thank you woodnaquanut. Very good points. I'm leaning towards a dark, distressed but simple construction frame. Something that matches the decor but also somewhat disappears when viewing the tank. Might be a good winter project for me.
Sounds good. If I space mine 4.25" I'll end up with one LED on the edge of each cross bar which isn't too bad. I figure there's far to many variables to really dial in a specific staggered layout without doing some serious light output measuring, which in the long run is probably completely unnecessary for my application. :hmm6: I'm afraid I'd end up with worse shadows under the cross bars versus an even layout and a "hope for the best" attitude. :lol:
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drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
The LED mounting panel is complete. I'm STILL waiting on parts from ReefLedLights, which is a little frustrating, but the down time gave me time to finish this project and map out the design a bit more. The panels are more work, obviously, but I like the clean look they provide and it keeps everything nice and tidy.
I have the bars, VDM module, and Cree XT-E RB LEDs. Just waiting on the drivers, optics, holders, and accessories to get this project rolling. :spin2:
The LED mounting panel is complete. I'm STILL waiting on parts from ReefLedLights, which is a little frustrating, but the down time gave me time to finish this project and map out the design a bit more. The panels are more work, obviously, but I like the clean look they provide and it keeps everything nice and tidy.
I have the bars, VDM module, and Cree XT-E RB LEDs. Just waiting on the drivers, optics, holders, and accessories to get this project rolling. :spin2:
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drummereef
Team RC
And by the way if you haven't checked out the new Beta version of the APEX web browser, Neptune Systems have been hard at work to make the GUI more user friendly. There's a new "dashboard" layout with customizable tiles. The biggest update is the ability to add a webcam. I have a custom avatar in it's place until I get a webcam for the system. The firmware update is still a work in progress but am looking forward to the final update.
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summitwynds
Member
Hi Brett, If I remember correctly you switched out the ball valves to a different kind (from the ones at the beginning). Im trying to find that post, but can't. Looking at figuring out what I need for plumbing parts. Thanks for your help!
drummereef
Team RC
I switched out the valves on my manifold a while back. I highly recommend these valves. I haven't had any issues with them sticking and they are as easy to turn today as the day I bought them. I use true union valves everywhere else on my system, but these work great on the manifold.
GF Compact Ball Valves
http://www.savko.com/partlist.asp?pgid=1&ptid=2&pid=175
summitwynds
Member
Great, thats what I needed to know. Thank you!
How do I know when to use threaded versus slip? Is there any link you know of that will help me figure out what I need to put all the plumbing together? I know you used Google Sketchup to put the parts together, but I need to figure out what parts I need first. Im a real noobie, this is my first tank that we'll do the plumbing on. Im going to go with a set up like yours for the plumbing, but for my tank/sump specs.
drummereef
Team RC
I used threaded on the manifold because it gave me the flexibility to switch out different sized valves for different purposes. It's not necessary but it can give you options down the road when swapping equipment. I used slip valves everywhere else as I feel they are more "leak-proof". I don't know of a specific website to help with plumbing per se (except for doing some searches here on RC), but I think you'll have a better idea of what you'll need once you get the stand, tank, and sump in place. You'll be able to stand back with a pad and pencil and draw out a plan - the Sketchups are fun but not necessary. Even with all the planning I did I had to go back to the plumbing aisle at Lowe's about 150 times. :lol:
Things to think about in the mean time...
1. Use true union ball valves on the in/out of your return pump so you can remove the pump without draining the sump/display.
2. Use regular unions wherever you think you'll need to remove pvc plumbing.
3. Flexible PVC works great for drains when trying to avoid excess fittings.
4. Plan on extra trips to the hardware store.
summitwynds
Member
I used threaded on the manifold because it gave me the flexibility to switch out different sized valves for different purposes. It's not necessary but it can give you options down the road when swapping equipment. I used slip valves everywhere else as I feel they are more "leak-proof". I don't know of a specific website to help with plumbing per se (except for doing some searches here on RC), but I think you'll have a better idea of what you'll need once you get the stand, tank, and sump in place. You'll be able to stand back with a pad and pencil and draw out a plan - the Sketchups are fun but not necessary. Even with all the planning I did I had to go back to the plumbing aisle at Lowe's about 150 times. :lol:
Things to think about in the mean time...
1. Use true union ball valves on the in/out of your return pump so you can remove the pump without draining the sump/display.
2. Use regular unions wherever you think you'll need to remove pvc plumbing.
3. Flexible PVC works great for drains when trying to avoid excess fittings.
4. Plan on extra trips to the hardware store.
Thank you, this will help me out a lot.... plus looking at the photos of your awesome system.
drummereef
Team RC
Good news, finally. My LED order looks like it will be here tomorrow. There was a mishap between ReefLed upgrading their website and also physically getting their holiday orders out. But in any event Bill tracked it down and got it shipped out. So I should be able to get started on the project this week. Stay tuned...
B1N4RY
New member
Good news, finally. My LED order looks like it will be here tomorrow. There was a mishap between ReefLed upgrading their website and also physically getting their holiday orders out. But in any event Bill tracked it down and got it shipped out. So I should be able to get started on the project this week. Stay tuned...
That is great to hear. You setup is soo clean. I'm thinking about cleaning things up a bit since I'm working on the canopy of my aquarium honestly glad I'm following yours. Gives me a few idea about how I want my setup to be organized. Keep up the great work. Did you have your Apex controller shipped directly from Neptune Systems or did you purchase from another retailer?
drummereef
Team RC
